Then Indhiya Samayal Iravu An Evening of South Indian Cooking

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Then Indhiya Samayal Iravu-An Evening of South
Indian Cooking

• Anita Subramaniam, Ph.D.

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Tradition, Tradition, Tradition!

• "India is, the cradle of the human race, the
  birthplace of human speech, the mother of
  history, the grandmother of legend, and the great
  grandmother of tradition."-Mark Twain

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(No Transcript)
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Differences within ethnicity

• Rice eaters
• Spices- red chilies, green chilies, cumin,
  coriander seeds, asafetida, turmeric, pepper,
  fenugreek seeds.
• Jaggery instead of sugar
• Coconut and tamarind used for gravy
• Steaming, pressure cooking, fermenting, boiling,
  roasting

• North Indians eat whole wheat (chapattis and
  rotis), Maida (refined wheat) (naans, parathas)
• Cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, pomegranate
  seeds (ajmer)
• Sugar more than jaggery
• Tomatoes and onions for making the gravy
• Frying, roasting, baking, marinating

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Differences in South Indian Cooking

• Kannadigas jaggery, has sweet and sour taste
• Telugus extra hot foods
• Keralites a lot of coconut, coconut milk, use
  coconut oil for frying
• Tamils tamarind, coconut
• Madurai/Kancheepuram (idlis)
• Chettinad (mainly non-vegetarian, extra spicy)
• Thanjavore/Trichi (Rice Bowl of India)
• Tirunelvelli (Halwa)
• Palghat (coconut milk, elliseri, jackfruit
  payasam)
• Indo French cooking (Pondicherry, Cheeses)
• Anglo Indian cooking (soups (mulagitawny soup),
  breads, chips)

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Tamil Society Clothing Food
Tamils live all over the world. There are Tamils
in Singapore, Thailand, Madagascar, Malaysia, Sri
Lanka, Canada, Australia, UK, and US.
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Introduction to Tamil Cooking

• Todays menu consists of home recipes
• A few of the innumerous items using traditional
  Indian vegetables and recipes
• Variety of items prepared for one wholesome meal
• Vary from laborious and very simple
• Vary from spicy hot to very sweet
• Healthy and unhealthy foods
• Combination of several ingredients to prepare one
  dish
• Many of these items are prepared in more than one
  way.. there is no single way of preparation

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Tamil Nadu

• Food Crops
• Rice
• Ragi
• Bajra
• Masoor Dal
• Moong Dal

• Cash Crops
• Cotton
• Sugar cane
• Jute
• Tea
• Coffee
• Rubber
• Plaintain
• Mango
• Tamarind
• Spices

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History of Agriculture

• Early Humans were good gatherers not producers
• In India, food production is evident from Indus
  Valley period.
• Intensive excavations at Kalibangan, one of the
  important pre-Harappan sites in Bikaner division
  of Rajasthan have laid bare a furrowed field
  showing in the third Millennium B.C., farming was
  well developed.
• Ploughing using oxen and bulls
• Six, eight repeated ploughing was done to
  acquire desired quality of the soil.
• Cow dung was used as manure. Earthworms grown to
  till the soil
• The Vedic farmers knew the method of improving
  the fertility of the soil by crop rotation
  method.
• Agricultural Traditions are Maintained!

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Rice - the main food crop

• India one of the largest exporters of rice,
  ranking second in the world next to Thailand
  (Money Matters, 2004)
• India produces about 78 million tonnes of rice
  (rice consumption of the world is around 408
  million tonnes) (Business Standard, 2003)
• Profile of a Rice Producing Factory
  http//www.nazricenfoods.com/prof_nen.html
• Rice production for this year is going to be
  affected both in India and China due to poor
  monsoon season
• Rice grown in India is of different varieties
• Kuttharisi (parboiled)
• Ponni
• Samba
• Idly
• Jasmine flavored rice
• Rose flavored rice
• Red rice

• Parboiled rice
• Rice steamed with the outer husk before
  dehusking
• This enables the rice grain to retain B-Vitamins
  that are usually lost during the dehusking
  process.
• converted rice parboiled rice  
• Fast-cooking white rice 
• When cooked, the grains are more nutritious,
  firmer, and less clingy than white rice grains.  
  Uncle Ben's is a well-known brand.
• Parboiled rice is now available in other cities
  in India and in the US and UK

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Pulses Main Protein Source

• Peas, beans and lentils are known as pulses.
• They are the seeds of plants belonging to the
  family Leguminosae
• Rich in Protein, Carbohydrate, Fiber, Vitamins
  (C)
• Low in Fat contains unsaturated fats
• Some are high in iron and calcium

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Indian Vegetables and Fruits

• The common South Indian vegetables are
• Snake gourd
• Bitter gourd
• Avaraikai (broad beans)
• Thondakai
• Drumstick
• Raw plantains
• Banana flower (Vazha poo)
• Banana stem (Vazha thandu)
• Taro root (Shepangazhangu)
• Karamani (long beans)
• Small brinjals
• White pumpkin
• Different varieties of greens
• Yams (Karnakazhangu)
• Kothavanrangai (cluster beans).

• Fruits that we use are
• Papaya
• Jack fruit
• Different varieties of mangoes
• Sapota
• Guavas
• Different varieties of bananas
• Perichampazham
• Pomegranate
• Nagapazham.

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Spices and Condiments

• India is known as the 'The home of spices'. There
  is no other country in the world that produces as
  many kinds of spices as India. The climate of the
  country is suitable for almost all spices.   
           
• According to the International Organization For
  Standardization (ISO) The term 'spices and
  condiments' applies to such natural plant or
  vegetable products or mixtures thereof, in whole
  or ground form, as are used for imparting flavor,
  aroma and piquancy to and for seasoning of
  foods".
• There are over 80 spices grown in different parts
  of the world and around 50 spices are grown in
  India.
• ROLE OF SPICES
• They add tang and flavor to otherwise insipid
  foods.
• Some of them also possess antioxidant properties,
  while others are used as preservatives in some
  foods like pickles and chutneys, etc. 
• For good breath ..Chewing certain spices like
  cardamom, cumin, clove  improves digestion and
  acts as a mouth freshener.
• Some spices also possess strong anti-microbial
  and antibiotic activities.
• Many of them possess medicinal properties and
  have a profound effect on human health, since
  they effect many functional processes.
• Spices act as a stimulates to the digestive
  system and help digestion in many ways. Spices
  possibly activate the adreno-cortical function
  and fortify resistance and physical capacity.
  Stroke frequency , and blood pressure can be
  diminished or augmented by means of spices. 
  (WebIndia123.com)

• Coriander seeds
• Curry leaves
• Mustard
• Cilantro
• Red chilies
• Green chilies
• Cumin seeds
• Fenugreek seeds (Vit. E)
• Asafotida
• Tamarind
• Til (Gingili seeds)
• Ginger
• Turmeric
• Cardamom
• Black pepper
• Vanilla
• Rose essence
• Saffron

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Cooking Methods
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Traditional Tools

• Ammi, Attukkal

• Aruvamanai

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Traditions in Meal Preparation

• Always cooked the same day
• Cooks get to work very early in the morning 5
  a.m.
• Cooking only after shower
• Must wear proper clothing
• No footwear
• Usually cooking done by women
• Although some households have male cooks
• Male cooks (only) for wedding and festive
  occasions
• Male and females do not usually cook together
• Feet always washed before entering the house
  (guests) (WHY?)

• Vegetables are washed before cutting
• Hands washed after each activity
• Must not touch old food (if any) while cooking
  if done, wash hands
• Utensils washed before use (even if washed
  before)
• Cooking area cleansed after every meal
  preparation
• Cooking area is decorated with kolams in the
  night

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Pressure Cooking

• Healthy, no fat
• Several items cooked at the same time
• Conserves time and fuel
• Cooks food well
• No loss of nutrients as water is not drained

• Can be dangerous if not properly installed
• Pressure can cause food burst and to be thrown
  out
• Makes noise
• May undercook/overcook food

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Wet Grinding

• Indian wet grinders use the same concept as used
  in hand grinding
• Wet grinders are quicker than hand grinding
• Wet grinders grind food for idlis and dosas
  better than food processors
• Not useful for small quantities

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Steaming

• Idlis and many items used are cooked by steaming
• Healthy
• No fat used
• Quick

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Frying

• Less frequent than pressure cooking, steaming or
  roasting
• Frying limited to side items such as chips like
  varuvals, appalams, and pappadams
• These are usually made once a week and saved
• Frying also for Tiffin afternoon snacks
• Shallow frying more common than deep fat frying
  (dosa, adai, appams)
• Limited to festive occasions and social get
  together
• Only vegetable oil used- sunflower oil most
  common in India gingili oil and coconut oil used
  a few decades ago
• Ghee used for seasoning and desserts

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Food Eating Patterns
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Food Eating Patterns

• One of the main influences on Indian cuisine is
  the Hindu religion
• Many Hindus are vegetarians
• In addition, most of the Hindu people, as far as
  I know, dont eat beef. Cows are considered
  sacred in India and are worshiped by Hindus Pork
  is also not common (http//www.bhc.edu/Internation
  al/esl2/news/FALL202003/Articles/indianeating.htm
  )
• Mutton and Chicken are the most common types of
  meat consumed
• Region and religion affect Indian eating patterns
• Muslims are forbidden to eat pork and pork
  products. All Jains and some Hindus are strict
  vegetarians, though they do consume dairy
  products
• In addition, Indians follow restricted diets for
  pregnancy and mourning. There is also a selected
  system of fasting related to religious practices
• At home, Indians often eat meals sitting
  cross-legged on a floor mat.
• Instead of cutlery, the right hand is used for
  eating and a piece of fresh banana leaf or
  stainless steel plate (thali) serves as a plate.
• While the rest of the household eats, women serve
  the meals and wait until everyone has finished
  dining before sitting down themselves.
  (http//www.settlement.org/cp/english/india/eatin
  g.html)

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Traditions in Serving Food

• Food generally served on banana leaves
• Leaf is placed before the guest
• The corner of the leaf faces right of the person
• Water is served first, no other beverage is
  served
• Leaf is cleaned by sprinkling water and brushing
  the water with fingers (left to right)
• Food eaten with hands using only fingers not the
  palm
• Only right hand is used for eating
• Food eaten sitting on the floor on the full lotus
  position with erect back
• Seating is from left to right no gaps
• The most important person served first
• Sometimes the first leaf is for puthras
  (ancestors)
• Usually in most Hindu homes, the crow is served
  rice, dal and ghee first outside the house
• Food served clockwise
• Food served from top right corner of the leaf to
  left

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Order of Serving/Eating Food

• Foods served first
• Serving starts with a spoon of payasam
• Dhal
• Followed by salads vegetable and fruit
• Vegetable dishes
• Chutneys and pickle
• Vadas, laddoos and other items
• First Serving of Rice
• Rice
• Ghee
• Sambhar
• Appalam
• Second Serving of Rice
• Morekozhambu
• Second serving of all dishes that has been
  consumed

• Third Serving of Rice
• Rasam
• Appalam
• Main Dessert
• Full cup of payasam
• Fourth Serving of Rice
• Yogurt
• Wash Hands and chew betel leaves
• Digestive
• Betel leaves with betel nut and Calcium Carbonate
  (lime)
• Some men and women combine chewing tobacco with
  betel leaves

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Traditions After the Meal

• All food served must be consumed
• Unconsumed food generally set in one side of the
  leaf
• Leaf must not be folded
• Guest gets up and washes hands
• Hostess always takes away the leaf after ALL the
  guests get up
• Concept of Dharma- serving food to guests is
  considered dharma (a generous act)
• Hostess cleans the place with her hands
• Burping is sign of contentment of food
• Guest must sit for sometime before leaving
• Betel leaf with lime and betel nuts served when
  the guest is seated with washed hands

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Festive Occasions

• Are many and celebrated with a lot of sincerity
  and regularity
• All members participate
• Certain festivals all extended family members
  attend
• Several gods and each god is revered
• Flowers, betel Leaves, betel nut, fruits, and,
  coconut are sacred offerings for all the
  festivals
• Special items of food are prepared specific to
  each festival

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4 Meals a Day!!

• Common Breakfast items
• Coffee
• Idlis
• Dosas
• Uppuma
• Poori
• Pongal
• Accompanied by sambhar, chutney, podis
• Common Tiffin items
• Vadas
• Bondas
• Pakodas
• Savai
• Adais

• Lunch/Dinner items
• Rice
• Rasam
• Sambhar
• Kootu
• Curry
• Appalam
• Yogurt
• Pickle
• Thokayal
• Podis
• In some households, tiffin items are served for
  dinner.

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A Typical Meal

• Rice
• Rasam
• Sambhar
• Kootu
• Poriyal/Curry
• Yogurt
• Ghee
• Plain cooked Dhal

• One or two of the below
• Chutney
• Pickle
• Pachadi
• Appalam
• Salad

Sweets on occasions only
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Snacks Sweets

• Ribbon pakoda
• Muthsarai
• Mixture
• Chips banana, nenthranga
• Omapodi
• Murukku
• Thattai

• Mysore pakku
• Cashew nut/Almond cake
• Athirasam
• Kesari
• Halwa
• Jamun
• Payasam

Usually prepared on festive occasions
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Some Traditional Recipes
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Traditional Juice

• Panagam (PAAnagam)
• Jaggery
• Lime
• Ginger
• Cardamom
• Served before food
• Only beverage served with food is water.

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Traditional Beverage

• Coffee
• Made from fresh decoction
• Decoction made through filtration
• Freshly ground coffee powder (powdering usually
  done in coffee mills shops specifically that
  powder coffee)
• Add coffee powder to the top compartment of the
  filter
• Add boiling hot water over a spoon
• Consumed with milk and sugar

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Yogurt

• One of the most important sources of Calcium
• Yogurt is consumed more than milk in some
  households
• Yogurt used in cooking preparations
• Always the last item to be consumed in a meal
• If one does not wish to eat rice and yogurt, s/he
  usually consumes buttermilk

• Yogurt consumed at least two times a day
• 2 cups
• Thick form
• Made from whole fat milk
• Sometimes from cows milk (yellowish in color)
• Buffalo milk whitish in color
• The cream of the yogurt is collected to make
  butter
• Butter prepared by churning with hand
• Churner tied to a rope

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Ghee

• Prepared from butter
• Ghee is prepared by boiling butter until it turns
  transparent and dark brown sediments begin to
  form
• Ghee is served with rice except when rice is
  served with yogurt
• Ghee reduces the spiciness of food

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Ghee and Yogurt

• Ghee
• Melt unsalted butter and let it boil until a
  light brown sediment is formed
• Store ghee in a cool place
• No refrigeration required

• Yogurt
• Boil milk
• Let it cool
• Add some old yogurt (about 2 tsps.)
• Let it set in room temperature
• Once set, refrigerate.

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pakodas

• Ingredients
• Channa flour (besan) 2 cups
• Rice flour 1 cup
• Onions 2 chopped length wise
• Ginger a small piece grated
• Green chilies 4 chopped
• Red chili powder
• Cashews 1/4 cup
• Curry leaves a few
• Ghee (melted butter) 2-3 tsp
• Cooking Oil 4 tsp
• Cilantro a small bunch washed and finely chopped
• Salt 1 tsp
• Cooking Oil for frying

• Method
• Mix channa flour, rice flour, chili powder,
  cilantro and salt
• Heat 4 tsp of oil, and 3 tsp of ghee in a pan and
  add it to the above
• Now add chopped onions, green chilies and mix
  everything well
• Make small irregular balls and deep fry in oil.

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idlis

• Ingredients
• Par boiled rice 3 cups
• Urad dhal (Black gram- deskinned) 1 cup
• Salt 2 tsp

• Method
• Rinse and soak rice and urad dhal separately in
  water for 2 hours
• Grind the two separately, and mix them together
  with salt
• Let it ferment overnight
• Make idlis using idli trays
• Steam (no pressure).

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rice

• Jasmine or Raw Rice
• 1 cup
• 3 cups of water

• Pressure cook using pressure cooker
• Or use rice cooker
• Or cook in an utensil using excess water and
  drain the water

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onion sambhar

• Ingredients
• Tur dhal 1 cup
• Coriander seeds (Dhania) 3 tsp
• Channa dhal 2 tsp
• Red chilies 6
• Fenugreek seeds (Methi) 1/4 spoon
• Pearl Onion (1 frozen pack)
• Tomato 1 (optional)
• Tamarind paste 2 tsp
• Grated coconut 3 tsp
• Green chilies 4
• Turmeric 1/4 tsp
• Cilantro a small bunch washed and finely chopped
• Curry leaves a few
• Mustard 1/2 tsp
• Cooking Oil 2 tsp
• Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)

• Method
• Cook Tur dhal and turmeric with extra water.
  Drain water and save in a separate container
• Scrap coconut
• Fry channa dhal, red chilies, dhania, methi, and
  little onion. Grind this mixture with tomato and
  coconut
• Peel onions (if fresh raw onions are used)
• Fry onions and green chilies in a pan for a few
  minutes, and cook this in the tur dhal water with
  salt
• After it is cooked, add tamarind paste and cook
  for a few minutes, and finally add the ground
  paste
• After this is cooked add the cooked tur dhal
• Heat little oil in a pan, splutter mustard, and
  add this to the sambhar
• Garnish with cilantro and curry leaves.

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cumin and pepper rasam

• Ingredients
• Tur dhal 2 tsp
• Cumin seeds 1/2 1/4 tsp
• Pepper 1/2 tsp
• Red chili 3
• Tamarind paste 1/2 tsp
• Turmeric 1/4 tsp
• Curry leaves a few
• Water 3 cups
• Ghee 1/2 tsp
• Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)

• Method
• Dry roast tur dhal and pepper without oil for 1
  minute
• Soak this in water along with red chili cumin
  seeds for 10 minutes
• Wet grind to a smooth paste
• Boil tamarind in water, add salt, turmeric, and
  add the above mixture until the flavor comes out
• Fry 1/4 tsp cumin seeds, curry leaves and 1 red
  chili in ghee and add this to the rasam.

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moor kozhambu

• Ingredients
• Cumin seeds 1 tsp
• Red chilies 4
• Green chilies 2
• Rice flour 1/2 tsp
• Asafetida (hing) a small pinch
• Coconut 4 tsp
• Coconut oil 1 tsp (optional)
• Sour cream or butter milk 4 cups
• Turmeric 1/4 tsp
• Mustard 1/4 tsp
• Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)
• Curry leaves a few
• Cilantro a small bunch washed and finely chopped
• Vegetables - White pumpkin or okra, or zucchini
  or squash

• Method
• Cut vegetable into big pieces and cook in water.
  If using okra, need not cook but have to fry a
  little
• Grind cumin, rice flour, red chilies, with
  coconut and little salt and butter milk
• Heat some coconut/vegetable oil, splutter mustard
  seeds
• Add curry leaves, little hing, salt, turmeric and
  the vegetables, and fry this for a few minutes
• Now add the ground paste and the remaining butter
  milk to the above and bring this to a boil on a
  low flame
• Simmer for a few minutes
• Garnish with cilantro.

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potato roast

• Ingredients
• Potatoes 1 pound
• Turmeric 1/4 tsp
• Asafetida (Hing) a small pinch
• Chili powder 1 tsp
• Urad dhal 1/2 tsp
• Mustard 1/4 tsp
• Curry leaves a few
• Cooking Oil 5 tsp
• Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)

• Method
• Boil or microwave peeled potatoes with turmeric
  and salt.
• Peel skin and dice them and keep aside
• Heat 5 tsp of oil in a kadai/wok, splutter
  mustard and urad dal
• Add curry leaves
• Add hing, chili powder, turmeric, salt and diced
  potatoes
• Simmer the stove and let it cook until the
  potatoes turn light brown.

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Taro root roast

• Taro root
• Chili powder
• Curry leaves
• Salt
• Turmeric powder
• Asafetida
• Besan
• Rice flour

• Boil taro root in a pressure cooker
• Peel skin
• Dice cross sectionally
• Mix chili powder,besan, rice four, salt, turmeric
  powder, asafetida powder and curry leaves (finely
  chopped).
• Dip or sprinkle on the diced taro root
• Deep fry in oil.

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kootu

• Ingredients
• Coconut 1-2 tsp
• Cumin seeds 1 tsp
• Red chilies 5
• Turmeric 1/2 tsp
• Urad dhal 1 tsp
• Coconut oil 1 tsp
• Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)
• Curry leaves a few
• Vegetables
• Carrot, cabbage, peas, potatoes, etc., OR
• Chow chow OR
• Spinach OR
• Snake gourd, OR
• Squash OR
• Nool Kohl OR
• Zucchini

• Method
• Wash and dice vegetables into uniform pieces
• Cook them with a little salt and turmeric
• Wet grind coconut, cumin seeds, and red chilies
  and add this paste to the boiling vegetables
• Cook until the flavor comes out
• Heat some coconut oil in a pan, splutter mustard
  and urad dhal, 1 red chili, curry leaves, and add
  this to the kootu.

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Chutney

• Coconut chutney
• Ingredients
• Coconut 1/2 cup grated
• Roasted channa dal (Pottu Kadalai) 3 tsp
• Green chilies 2
• Salt 1/2 tsp
• Method
• Grind all the above ingredients.

• Cilantro chutney
• Ingredients
• Urad dhal 4 tsp
• Channa dhal 2 tsp
• Red chilies 2
• Green chilies 2
• Cilantro 1 bunch
• Hing 1/4 tsp
• Tamarind paste 1/4 tsp
• Salt 1/2 tsp
• Oil 2 tsp
• Method
• Fry urad dhal, channa dhal, red chilies, green
  chilies, and hing in oil.
• Wet grind the above with chopped cilantro, salt,
  and tamarind paste.

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mango pickle

• Ingredients
• Mango 1 large or 2-4 small
• Red chili powder 1/2 cup
• Turmeric powder 1/4 tsp
• Fenugreek seeds (Methi seeds) 1/2 tsp
• Mustard 1/4 tsp
• Hing 1/4 tsp
• Salt 1/4 cup
• Cooking oil 1/4 cup

• Method
• Cut mango into small dices, removing the pitt,
  add salt, turmeric, and keep it aside for 4-5
  days.
• Add red chili powder to this mango and mix it
  well.
• Roast methi seeds and dry grind it and keep it
  aside.
• Heat oil in a pan, and add mustard, and hing and
  let it cool.
• When the above oil becomes room temperature, mix
  it with the mango, and add the roasted methi
  powder.

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tomato pachadi

• Ingredients
• Tomato 1 big and a few small ones washed and
  chopped
• Yogurt 2 cups
• Curry leaves a few
• Mustard 1/4 tsp
• Asafetida (hing) a small pinch
• Green chilies chopped 2-3
• Cooking Oil 1.5 tsp
• Cilantro a small bunch washed and finely chopped
• Salt 1/2 tsp (or to taste)

• Method
• Splutter mustard, and add hing, curry leaves,
  green chilies
• Add tomato in oil and fry for 5-10 minutes
• Add salt, and mix this with yogurt
• Garnish with chopped cilantro.

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mysore pakku

• Ingredients
• Besan flour - 1 cup
• Sugar - 2 1/2 cups
• Water - 1 cup
• Ghee - 2 1/2 cups
• Cardamom (optional)
• Method 1
• Dry roast the gram flour to a golden color. Keep
  aside.
• Make a syrup with sugar and water to one string
  consistency.
• While stirring, slowly add the gram flour.
  Continue stirring
• Add melted ghee simultaneously.
• Add all the ghee in this manner.
• Cook till the mixture leaves the sides of the
  pan.
• Add cardamom powder.
• Smear a plate with the ghee. Pour in the mixture
  ,spread and level.
• Leave it to cool.
• While still warm cut into diamond shapes.
• Mysore pak should be porous, light and crisp.  

• Method 2
• Mix gram flour, sugar and water smoothly.
• Pour this into a pan and cook in low heat.
• Keep ghee in another vessel in low heat and add
  this ghee to the gram flour mixture in steps and
  with constant stirring.
• Do this until the mixture turns into a non-sticky
  paste.
• Grease the inside of a large bowl with ghee and
  pour the cooked mixture on this large bowl.
• When it is still hot, cut into cubical pieces by
  drawing parallel lines on its surface.

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Web sites with interesting recipes

• Thamizhar Pakkam
• URL http//www.sysindia.com/kitchen/kitchen.html
• http//www.geocities.com/NapaValley/8826/list.htm
• India tastes.com
• URL http//www.indiatastes.com/
• Sarojs cookbook
• URL http//www.bawarchi.com/cookbook/south.html

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Websites

• Dhinakarn Recipes
• URL http//www.dinakaran.com/cook/cookery.htm