Unit D MERCHANDISE INFORMATION

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Unit D MERCHANDISE INFORMATION

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Title: Unit D MERCHANDISE INFORMATION


1
Unit DMERCHANDISE INFORMATION
  • 4.01 Identify basic textile fibers, fabrics, and
    their characteristics.

Warm-up Define the following terms from textbook
(page 95-100)
  • Fibers
  • Natural Fibers
  • Cellulosic Fibers
  • Protein Fibers
  • Staple Fibers
  • Filaments
  • Suede
  • Wool
  • Cotton
  • Flax
  • Silk
  • Leather
  • Fur

2
Unit DMERCHANDISE INFORMATION
  • 4.01 Identify basic textile fibers, fabrics, and
    their characteristics.

3
Textile Industry Terms
  • Fiber The smallest unit in a textile fabric.
  • Yarn A group of fibers twisted together to form
    a continuous strand.
  • Fabric Any material that is made by weaving,
    knitting, braiding, knotting, laminating,
    felting, or chemical bonding.
  • Hand The way a fabric feels to the touch.
  • Denier Thickness or diameter of a fiber.
  • Microfibers Ultra fine, soft, luxurious fibers
    possessing the same desirable qualities as
    expensive natural fibers but costing less and
    requiring less special care.
  • CAD (Computer Aided Design) Computer system
    software used for designing textiles, fashion,
    apparel, and other products.

4
Natural fibers
Fibers from plants or animal sources.
  • Staple fibers Lower quality, short fibers.
  • Filament fibers Long, continuous fibers of
    higher quality.
  • Cellulosic fibers Fibers from plants.
  • Protein fibers Fibers derived from animals or
    insects.

5
Manufactured fibers
Fibers that are man-made (synthetic) and are
created by combining various substances with
chemicals.
  • Solid raw materials and chemicals are melted or
    dissolved to form a thick liquid.
  • The liquid is forced through the tiny holes of a
    mechanical device known as a spinnerette to form
    filaments. (Similar to pushing dough through a
    pasta machine to make spaghetti.)
  • The filaments are then stretched, hardened, and
    crimped and/or cut into lengths.

6
Manufactured fibers (cont.)
  • Cellulosic manufactured fibers are made from
    cellulose from plants such as soft wood pulp and
    are changed into usable fibers by applying
    chemicals.
  • Noncellulosic manufactured fibers are made from
    various petrochemical mixtures of crude oil,
    natural gas, air, and water.

7
Blend A combination of two or more fibers that
maximizes the best features of each fiber.
  • Example Combining cotton with polyester

8
Natural fibers
  • Cotton
  • Wool
  • Flax (linen)
  • Silk

9
Cotton
The soft, white, downy fiber (boll) attached to
the seed of a cotton plant.
  • Most widely used of all natural fibers
  • Grown in the southern U.S. and other warm
    climates
  • Characteristics
  • Strong and durable
  • Absorbent
  • Cool to wear
  • Shrinks in hot water
  • Wrinkles easily

10
Cotton
  • Proper care
  • Machine wash
  • Tumble dry at moderate temperatures
  • Press with warm to hot iron
  • Common uses
  • Underwear
  • Socks
  • Shirts, blouses
  • Jeans
  • Towels, sheets

11
Wool
  • The fiber that forms the coat (fleece) of sheep.
  • Primary sources are Australia, South America, New
    Zealand, and United Kingdom
  • Characteristics
  • Natural insulator warmest of all natural
    fibers
  • Soft and resilient
  • Naturally flame retardant
  • Absorbs moisture more slowly than cotton
  • Shrinks if machine washed or dried unless
    chemically treated
  • Affected by moths

12
Wool
  • Proper care for untreated wool
  • Dry clean or hand wash in cool water and a mild
    detergent (according to garment label)
  • Do not place in dryer
  • Press with cool iron
  • Common uses
  • Sweaters
  • Tailored suits
  • Coats
  • Blankets
  • Upholstery
  • Rugs, carpets

13
Flax
  • The fiber that comes from the stem of a flax
    plant.
  • Grown and harvested primarily in Eastern Europe
  • Linen is made by weaving or knitting flax fiber
    into fabric.
  • Common uses
  • Pants
  • Blazers
  • Table linens
  • Upholstery

14
Flax
  • Characteristics
  • Durable and strong
  • Lustrous and smooth
  • Comfortable and cool to wear
  • Wrinkles easily
  • Creases difficult to remove
  • Can be expensive
  • Proper Care
  • Hand wash or dry clean (according to garment
    label)
  • Iron while damp

15
Silk
The fine, lustrous fiber that comes from a cocoon
spun by a silkworm.
  • The silkworm forces two fine streams of a thick
    liquid out of tiny openings in its head.
  • These streams harden into filaments or fibers
    upon contact with the air.
  • Primarily produced in Asia (Thailand, China,
    India), and Madagascar

16
Silk
  • Characteristics
  • Luxurious appearance and feel
  • Strongest of all natural fibers
  • Drapes nicely
  • Expensive
  • Easily spots if fabric becomes wet
  • Weakens with exposure to sun and perspiration

17
Silk
  • Proper Care
  • Dry clean or hand wash (according to garment
    directions)
  • Press on wrong side with warm iron
  • Common uses
  • Wedding gowns
  • Lingerie
  • Mens ties

18
Leather and Fur
  • Leather and fur are from the hides or skins of
    animals.
  • Leather A tough, flexible material made by
    preserving animal hides through a process called
    tanning.
  • Tanning converts hides into finished
    usable leather.

19
Leather is used for Handbags Shoes Belts Jack
ets
Leather
  • Primary sources
  • Cattle
  • Goatskins
  • Sheepskins
  • Reptiles

Suede Leather with a napped surface on the
flesh side.
20
Fur
The soft, hairy coat of an animal.
  • Fur is used for
  • Coats
  • Outerwear
  • Trimmings
  • Common Sources
  • Mink
  • Chinchilla
  • Fox
  • Rabbit

21
Manufactured fibers
  • Polyester
  • Nylon
  • Acrylic
  • Rayon
  • Acetate
  • Spandex

22
Polyester
  • Made from coal or petroleum
  • Strong and often blended with other fibers
  • Resistant to wrinkling
  • Shrink and stretch resistant
  • Easy to care for
  • Great washability
  • Pills easily
  • Static buildup
  • Common uses
  • Childrens wear, shirts, suits

23
Nylon
  • First fiber to be manufactured totally from
    chemicals
  • Strong, durable, elastic
  • Dries quickly
  • Resists wrinkles and soil
  • Washes easily
  • Heat sensitive
  • Clings to the wearer
  • Common uses
  • Hosiery, swimwear, windbreakers

24
Acrylic
  • Common uses
  • Terrycloth
  • Bathrobes
  • Knitted


    garments
  • Outdoor furniture fabrics and awnings
  • Resembles wool
  • Soft and warm
  • Bulky, yet lightweight
  • Quick drying
  • Strong
  • Wrinkle resistant
  • Static buildup
  • Pills easily

25
Rayon
  • First man-made fiber
  • Soft, absorbent, and comfortable
  • Inexpensive
  • Stretches and is weak when wet
  • Mildews and wrinkles easily
  • Common uses
  • Linings
  • Sports shirts
  • Jackets

26
Acetate
  • Very versatile
  • Inexpensive and easy to dye
  • Silky, luxurious
  • Deep luster, soft
  • Wrinkles easily
  • Special care needed in cleaning
  • Common uses
  • Neckties
  • Lingerie
  • Blouses
  • Linings

27
Spandex
  • Known for its ability to stretch
  • Resistant to lotions, oils, sun, and perspiration
  • Easily damaged by chlorine bleach
  • Soft, lightweight
  • Durable
  • Nonabsorbent
  • Common uses
  • Swimwear
  • Dancewear
  • Exercise wear

28
Steps involved in fabric production
  1. Fibers are usually twisted together and spun into
    yarns.
  2. Yarns are either woven or knitted to form fabric.
  3. Color is added by dyeing or printing to enhance
    the fabrics appeal.
  4. A finish is applied to make the fabric suitable
    for its end use and to improve its appearance.

29
Turning Yarn into Fabric
  • Weaving The process of interlacing one or more
    sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.
  • Warp yarns Yarns that run lengthwise in woven
    fabric.
  • Weft yarns Yarns that run crosswise in woven
    fabric.

30
Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)
  • Grain The direction of the lengthwise and
    crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric.
  • Bias The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias
    provides the greatest give or stretch in the
    fabric.

31
Weaving
  • Plain weave The simplest weave in which the
    weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under
    each warp (lengthwise) yarn.
  • A basket weave is one variation, with the weft
    yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns
    each pass.
  • Examples Chiffon, seersucker, taffeta

Plain weave
32
Weaving
  • Twill weave A weave in which the weft yarn is
    passed over and under one, two, or three warp
    yarns beginning one warp yarn back on each new
    row.
  • Used for durability, this weave produces a
    diagonal design on the surface.
  • Examples denim, gabardine

Twill weave
33
Weaving
  • Satin weave A weave that produces a smooth,
    shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the
    weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to
    create long floats.
  • Examples sateen, satin

Satin weave
34
Weaving
  • Other weaves
  • Pile weavecorduroy, velvet
  • Dobbydotted swiss, pique
  • Jacquardbrocade, damask
  • Lenofabrics with an open, lacy appearance

35
Knitting
Constructing fabric by looping yarns together.
  • Weft knits Knits made with only one yarn that
    runs crosswise forming a horizontal row of
    interlocking loops.
  • Cut edges will curl.
  • Weft knits run if snagged.
  • Examples jersey, ribbed knits, sweater knits

36
Knitting (cont.)
  • Warp knits Knits made with several yarns
    creating loops that interlock in the lengthwise
    direction.
  • Do not ravel
  • Have selvage edges
  • Examples tricot, raschel knits
  • Gauge The number of stitches, or loops, per
    inch in a knitted fabric.

37
Additional ways to construct fabric
  • Nonwoven. Fibers are compacted together using
    moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, or pressure.
    Examples quilt batting, garment interfacings,
    felt, artificial suede
  • Laces and nets. Made by knotting, twisting, or
    looping yarns. Example lace
  • Braided fabrics. Created by interlacing three or
    more yarns to form a regular diagonal pattern
    down the length of the resulting cord. Examples
    decorative trims, shoelaces
  • Bonded fabric. Made by permanently fastening
    together two layers of fabric by lamination.
    Examples two fabrics bonded so that one serves
    as a self-lining as in skiwear or winter coats

38
Additional ways to construct fabric (cont.)
  • Quilted fabric. A layer of padding or batting is
    sandwiched between two layers of fabric and held
    in place by stitching. Examples of use
    bedspreads, placemats, and outerwear

39
Fabric finishing
  • Applying colors, designs or surface treatments
    that change the look, feel, or performance of
    fabrics.
  • Bleaching Chemical processes that remove color,
    impurities, or spots from fibers.
  • Dyeing A method of giving color to a fiber,
    yarn, fabric, or garment.
  • Printing The process of adding color, pattern,
    or design to the surface of fabrics.

40
Finish categories
  • Chemical Finishes that become part of the
    fabric through chemical reactions with the
    fibers.
  • Affect performance
  • Examples flame retardant, stain resistant
    (Scotchgard), waterproof, permanent press,
    preshrunk (Sanforized)
  • Mechanical Finishes that are applied
    mechanically rather than chemically.
  • Affect size and appearance
  • Examples glazing, embossing, brushing/napping/cu
    tting (corduroy)

41
Fabric Characteristics
  • Instructions Choose 2 different fabric
    samples
  • Chose a fabric sample from the fabric box.
  • Identify the following characteristics for each
    fabric sample
  • Fabric Name
  • Identify if it is a natural, manufactured, or a
    blended fiber fabric. What are the fibers?
  • Explain the type of fabric production is used?
  • Describe the hand (use your own words)
  • What are the common uses for the fabric?
  • How should it be cleaned?

1 Fabric Sample per person at a time to ensure
each student has a sample
42
Trends and Technology
43
Equipment and machinery
  • More automated weaving and knitting machines
  • Color management tools that can synchronize a
    colored design on a computer screen, a paper
    printout, and the actual fabric color
  • Sophisticated CAD tools with 3D capabilities
  • Processes constantly monitored by computer systems

44
  • Microfibers
  • Enhanced characteristics for high performance
    fabrics resulting in production of intelligent
    garments
  • - wicking (a fibers ability to draw moisture
    away from the body so it can evaporate)
  • - coolness
  • - warmth
  • - protection

45
Development of new recycling processes
  • Plastic soda bottles converted into polyester
    fiber
  • used to make fabric for t-shirts and filling for
    pillows
  • can be recycled numerous times without losing its
    performance attributes

46
Nonwoven fabrics
  • Finding increasing use in reusable apparel and
    other products
  • replacing traditional knits and wovens
  • widely used as interlinings in blouses, jackets,
    shirts, and waistbands
  • introduced for fishing and hunting apparel
  • used for medical textiles with special barrier
    materials to protect those in the operating room
  • printed nonwovens used for tops and blouses
  • also found in the SPF garments (garments that
    allow you to tan through the fabric at a
    controlled rate)

47
Individuality
  • More choices in clothing for consumers
  • Demand for mass-customization in clothing.
  • In any mall, customers can find a store that will
    print a custom design on a t-shirt or embroider a
    customized design on a cap.
  • Lands End will monogram initials on a garment.
  • Brooks Brothers handles orders for custom-made
    shirts or suits.
  • Mass customization is prevalent in the uniform
    sector where logos and names are embroidered or
    printed on garments. Examples Federal Express,
    Postal Service, and football teams

48
New and improved textiles
  • Required to protect those who face hazardous
    environments
  • Lighter and stronger textiles required for sports
  • Absorbable, antibiotic, antimicrobial, durable,
    self-decontaminating, and comfortable textiles
    required for medical applications
  • Better filters, road-building fabrics,
    geotextiles, and textiles for spaceships and
    communication systems required for industrial use
  • Demand for textiles that can be reused and/or
    recycled

49
Smart fibers
  • Smart fibers of the future will inform or assist
    the wearer. Potential applications include
    clothes that monitor the medical condition of the
    wearer, that warn of the presence of toxic
    chemicals, or that adjust to suit the wearers
    environment.
  • Dr. Niall Finn, CSIRO Textile and Fiber
    Technology

50
Mirrors
  • High-performance mirrors have been formed into
    hair-thin fibers and woven into fabrics and
    paper.
  • Could create clothing and documents with advanced
    capabilities
  • Clothes that reflect and protect against
    invisible microwaves and radiation
  • Clothes that can change colors like a chameleon
  • Massachusetts Institute of Technology

51
Government regulations
  • The Wool Products Labeling Act (1939) provides
    that all garments made of wool have a label
    indicating the percentage and kind of wool used.
  • The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
    (1958) requires that all clothing have a label
    listing the generic fiber content by percentage.
  • The Flammable Fabrics Act (1953) regulates the
    sale of highly flammable fabrics used in apparel
    and prohibits the sale of extremely flammable
    fabrics.
  • The Permanent Care Labeling Act (1972) requires
    that all clothing offered for sale in retail
    stores have a label indicating specific care
    instructions. New symbols for use in this
    labeling were introduced in 1997.
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