Title: L & K Bespoke Tailors Hong Kong: Recommended Tailor in Hong Kong, Quick Shirt Tailor Hong Kong https://www.lktailor.com/
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- In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made
from the same cloth, usually consisting of at
least a jacket and trousers. Lounge suits (also
known as business suits when sober in colour and
style), which originated in Britain as country
wear, are the most common style of Western suit.
Other types of suit still worn today are
the dinner suit, part of black tie, which arose
as a lounging alternative to dress coats in much
the same way as the day lounge suit came to
replace frock coats and morning coats and,
rarely worn today, the morning suit. This article
discusses the lounge suit (including business
suits), elements of informal dress code.
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- The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as
two- and three- piece, or single- and double-
breasted, determine the social and work
suitability of the garment. Often, suits are
worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and
necktie. Until around the 1960s, as with all
men's clothes, a hat would have been also worn
when the wearer was outdoors. Suits also come
with different numbers of pieces a two-piece
suit has a jacket and the trousers a three piece
adds a waistcoat (known as a vest in North
America) further pieces might include a flat
capmade from the same cloth.
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- Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made
the suit from his client's selected cloth these
are now often known as bespoke suits. The suit
was custom made to the measurements, taste, and
style of the man. Since the Industrial
Revolution, most suits are mass-produced, and, as
such, are sold as ready-to-wear garments (though
alteration by a tailor prior to wearing is
common). Currently, suits are sold in roughly
four ways
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- bespoke, in which the garment is custom-made by a
tailor from a pattern created entirely from the
customer's measurements, giving the best fit and
free choice of fabric - made to measure, in which a pre-made pattern is
modified to fit the customer, and a limited
selection of options and fabrics is available - ready-to-wear or off-the-peg (off-the-rack,
in American English), which is sold ready to be
tailored or finally as is - suit separates where jacket and trousers are sold
separately, allowing a customer to choose the
size that is best for him and limit the amount of
alterations needed.
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- The current styles were founded in the industrial
revolution during the late 18th century that
sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and
jewelled formal clothing into the simpler
clothing of the British Regency period, which
gradually evolved to the stark formality of
the Victorian era. It was in the search for more
comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise in
the late 19th century to the modern lounge suit.
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- Brooks Brothers is generally credited with first
offering the "ready-to-wear" suit, a suit which
was sold already manufactured and sized, ready to
be tailored. It was Haggar Clothing that first
introduced the concept of suit separates in the
US, the concept of separately sold jackets and
trousers, which are widely found in the
marketplace today.
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- The word suit derives from the French suite, meani
ng "following", from some Late Latin derivative
form of the Latin verb sequor "I follow",
because the component garments (jacket and
trousers and waistcoat) follow each other and
have the same cloth and colour and are worn
together.
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- As a suit (in this sense) covers all or most of
the wearer's body, the term "suit" was extended
to a single garment that covers all or most of
the body, such as boilersuits and diving
suits and spacesuits (see Suit (disambiguation)).
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20The cut
- A man dressed in a three-piece suit and bowler
hat. - The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored
balance created from a canvas fitting allows a
balanced silhouette so a jacket need not be
buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too
loose. A proper garment is shaped from the neck
to the chest and shoulders to drape without
wrinkles from tension. Shape is the essential
part of tailoring that often takes hand work from
the start. The two main cuts are
1) double-breasted suits, a conservative design
with two columns of buttons, spanned by a large
overlap of the left and right sides and
2) single-breasted suits, in which the sides
overlap very slightly, with a single column of
buttons.
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- Good tailoring anywhere in the world is
characterised by strongly tapered sides and
minimal shoulder, whereas often rack suits are
padded to reduce labour. More casual suits are
characterised by less construction and tailoring,
much like the sack suit is a loose American style.
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- There are 3 ways to make suits
- Ready made and altered "sizes" or precut shapes
a convenience that often is expressed over time
with wrinkles from poor shaping, leading to
distortion - The made-to-measure suit that uses measurements,
not shaping, to achieve things like style,
lengths and horizontal measurements - The custom, bespoke or tailoring-designed suit
that has interim half-made fittings and is cut
from an actual personal pattern.
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- The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is
the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring.
Rumples can be pressed out. For interim fittings,
"Rock Of Eye"drawing and cutting inaccuracies are
overcome by the fitting.
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28Fabric
- Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most
commonly from wool. The two main yarns
produce worsteds (where the fibres
are combed before spinning to produce a smooth,
hard wearing cloth) and woollens (where they are
not, thus remaining comparatively fluffy in
texture). These can be woven in a number of ways
producing flannel, tweed, gabardine, and fresco
among others.
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- These fabrics all have different weights and
feel, and some fabrics have an S
number describing the fineness of the fibres
measured by average fibre diameter, e.g., Super
120 however, the finer the fabric, the more
delicate and thus less likely to be long-wearing
it will be. Although wool has traditionally been
associated with warm, bulky clothing meant for
warding off cold weather, advances in making
finer and finer fibre have made wool suits
acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have
accordingly become lighter and more supple.
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- Wool fabric is denominated by the weight of a
one-square yard piece thus, the heavier wools,
suitable for winter only, are 12-14 oz. the
medium, "three season" are 10-11 oz. and summer
wools are 7-8 oz. (In the days before central
heating, heavier wools such as 16 oz. were used
in suits now they are used mainly in overcoats
and topcoats.) Other materials are used
sometimes, either alone or blended with wool,
such as cashmere.
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- Silk alone or blended with wool is sometimes
used. Synthetic materials, while cheaper, e.g.,
polyester, are very rarely recommended by
experts. At most, a blend of predominantly wool
may be acceptable to obtain the main benefit of
synthetics, namely resistance to wrinkling,
particularly in garments used for travel
however, any synthetic, blended or otherwise,
will always be warmer and clammier than wool
alone. For hot weather, linen is also used, and
in North America cotton seersucker is worn. - http//www.hongkongmanhattantailor.com/Bespoke-Sui
ts.html
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- Unit E, Ground Floor, Mercantile House, 186
Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tusi, Kowloon, Hong Kong.
MTR Jordan Exit No D - (852) 2302 0728 / (852) 9349 1442
- (852) 2302 0658
- info_at_hongkongmanhattantailor.com
- http//www.hongkongmanhattantailor.com/
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