Makeup Foundations

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Make-up Foundations for Diverse Skin Shades and
UV Protection
Graciela Lonchuk Rus, David Schlossman, Ed
Bartholomey, Carl Orr, Shirley Wang, Uyen
Nguyen In Cosmetics 2007 - Paris
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Outline

• Matching diverse skin shades a global issue
• Formulating for diverse skin shades
• SPF and UVA protection
• Conclusions

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Globalization
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Globalization
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The Real Fact

• Nowadays many different skin shades can be
  noticed everywhere and in each country despite
  cultural facts.

SKIN TONES
Fair Beige Bronze
Light Dark Medium Dark Deep Dark
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Color Match Facts

• Market Research 504 medium-high class women
• What about wearing a foundation make-up?
• 54,8 YES vs 45,2 NO
• Why? What do they expect from a foundation?
• 62,3 looks natural
• 51.6 blurs imperfections
• 43,4 not oily
• 35,1 lightweight
• 32,5 long lasting
• 31,3 smooth texture

Made in Latinamerica, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Make-up o/w Foundation
Viscosity 40000-50000 cps _at_ 24C
pH 7.5-7.9
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Experimental

• Working with Treated Pigments for
• Manufacturing process reasons
• Better dispersibility
• Homogeneous particle size, better color
  development
• Improvement on stability in the finished product

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Experimental

• Working with Treated Pigments for
• Applicability reasons

Using latex sponge
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Experimental
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Make-up Foundation

• About pigment content
• Medium Coverage 5 TiO2
• Anatase 200 nm A 200 nm
• Rutile 200 nm R 200 nm
• Rutile 60 nm R 60 nm
• Rutile 35 nm R 35 nm
• Rutile 15 nm R 15 nm
• Rutile 10 nm R 10 nm

Transparency
Lightness
15nm 35nm 60nm 200nm
Hue/ Tone
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TiO2 Dispersions (in Cyclopentasiloxane)

200 60 35 15 10 nm
200 60 35 15 10 nm
200 60 35 15 10 nm
200 60 35 15 10 nm
10nm TiO2 makes transparent dispersions for all
skin types
All dispersions diluted in Cyclopentasiloxane (to
20 TiO2)
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Light and Dark Series
10 15 35 60 200 nm
200 60 35 15 10 nm
Light Series Dark Series
Transparency- Chroma
Transparency- Chroma
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Foundations Opacity
Opacity may be measured in several ways. The
simplest is to measure the 'contrast ratio' which
is the ratio of a film's reflectance over a black
substrate divided by its reflectance over a white
substrate
Light Series A200 R200 R60
R35 R15 R10 Opacity 88,79
73,50 47,78 44,99 39,51 37,98
Dark Series A200 R200 R60
R35 R15 R10
Opacity measurements 2,0 mils Bird film
applicator ( 48 microns) on Leneta 2A Opacity
charts (black and white card)- Spectrophotometer
Hitachi
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Fair Skin / Light Series
A200
R200
R60
Control
R35
R15
R10
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Beige Skin / Light Series
A200
R200
R60
Control
R35
R15
R10
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Bronze Skin / Light Series
A200
R200
R60
Control
R35
R15
R10
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Light Dark Skin / Dark Series
A200
R200
R60
Control
R10
R15
R35
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Medium Dark Skin / Dark Series
A200
R200
R60
Control
R35
R15
R10
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Deep Dark Skin / Dark Series
A200
R200
R60
Control
R35
R15
R10
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Results in Color Matching
Light Series Dark Series
5 TiO2 Iron Oxides
5 TiO2 Iron Oxides
A 200 R 200 R 60 R
35 R15 R10
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Sun Facts

• During 2002, 44,582 cases of malignant melanoma
  were diagnosed in America
• Light dark skins do not suffer from UV induced
  skin damage in the extent as white skins do when
  it happens are due to other factors other than
  UV. There is, however, a fairly high rate of
  malignant melanoma in dark skin population.
• Protection on dark skinned people is due to
  traditional cosmetic use, to prevent darkening
  and to reduce photo-ageing.
• Uneven facial skin tone is very high in darked
  skinned women PIH coming from blemishes
  melasma vitiligo all conditions are aggravated
  by sun exposure.
• The good news is that many existing color
  cosmetic products provide an SPF 15 or higher and
  have broad spectrum protection.

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Inorganic UV Filter TiO2
Light Series
Dark series
In-Vitro Data prepared on Labsphere UV1000S
Substrate for the sunscreens are Transpore tape.

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TiO2 Particle Size and UVA Ratio
R0,951
Light Series
UVA ratio increases while TiO2 particle size
increases
Excellent correlation that shows that better UVA
attenuation is achieved at larger PPS ( while SPF
decreases)
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TiO2 Particle Size and UVA ratio
Dark Series
R0,935
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Inorganic UV Filters - In vivo Results


Tests were performed by Consumer Product
Testing Co. - All testing on 3 people
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Conclusions

• Matching different skin shades would be an easier
  task considering
• Fixed TiO2 amount 5 / medium coverage
• Using 10 nm,15 nm, 35 nm, 60 nm, 200 nm TiO2
  grades
• Only iron oxides composition change to manage the
  hue and darkness
• The make-up proposal in the present study also
  goes in the direction of UV attenuation SPF and
  UVA protection.
• The best UV balance was achieved in the case of
  35 and 60 nm
• Many possibilities should be considered in terms
  of matching skin shades while providing the
  required protection for the different skin types

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Aknowledgements

• Rita Pissani, professional make-up artist
• Dr. Cristina Altamira and Ing. Ruben Spinelli
  from Lab. Cantúa for their support helping in
  preparing all the make-up samples
• Kobo team
• ?
• Thank you very much!!!