Ethnic Hair CareSkin Care

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Ethnic Hair Care/Skin Care
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Ethnic Market Description

• Growing population.
• Less Price sensitive
• Image Conscious
• Strong Familiar Ties
• Strive for Social Acceptability/Self-Esteem

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Challenges/Opportunities to Ethnic Market

• Reaching consumer is more difficult
• Consumers want immediate gratification
• Brand Loyalties
• Multiple brand approach into the market
• Packaging/Style

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Consumer Trend

• Willing to pay more for quality products
• Will try a new brand that promises quality
• Commercials that portray minorities in positive
  light.
• Growing Purchasing power.

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Growth Opportunity

• Children Products
• Relaxers
• Styling products
• Conditioners

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HIGH SELLING ETHNIC HAIR CARE PRODUCTS

• RELAXER Kits
• Hair Dressing/Conditioner
• Styling Aids
• Hair Color
• After Shampoo Conditioner
• Moisturizers
• Shampoo.

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RELAXER DEFINITION

• Relaxers are defined as O/W emulsions with
  actives that can provide straightening
  effects with mechanical manipulation of the
  hair.

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RELAXER DEFINITION

• Generally, relaxers are defined as O/W
  emulsion creams that contain actives such
  as NaOH,LiOH,KOH or a mixture of Calcium
  Hydroxide and Guanidine Carbonate. The latter
  is described as the No-Lye relaxer.

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BASE (Lye) RELAXER

• A base relaxer was defined then as a
  relaxer which will need a petrolatum base
  on the scalp. This process was to prevent
  scalp irritation

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PROBLEM WITH BASE RELAXERS

• IRRITATION
• RINSEABILITY
• CUTICLE DAMAGE

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NO-BASE (Lye) RELAXER

• The No-Base relaxer was defined as the
  relaxer with no scalp basing process.
• Use of high levels of Petrolatum and
  Mineral oil.

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NO-Lye NO-MIX RELAXER

• This relaxer was designed without the use
  of Sodium hydroxide. Lithium hydroxide was
  the active. Problems associated with this
  type of relaxer when it is not properly
  manufactured. Crystal formation of the
  Lithium salts.
• Irritation

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NO-Lye (MIX) RELAXER

• This is the two part system. In most
  cases, Calcium hydroxide is in the cream
  and guanidine carbonate solution is used to
  activate the reaction which would form the
  guanidine hydroxide.

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CALCIUM HYDROXIDE

• This compound is not very soluble in
  water. The reaction with Guanidine carbonate
  will generate Guanidine hydroxide and
  Calcium Carbonate with the precipitation of
  Calcium Carbonate.
• In most cases, the relaxer dries out.

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CALCIUM HYDROXIDE

• Ca(OH)2 Ca 2 -OH
• Not very soluble in water
• pH 12.2 when dissolved in H2O
• Will not relax the hair

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GUANIDINE HYDROXIDE

• Can produce a relaxer with pH range of
  12-14
• Is unstable and will decompose spontaneously
  to form Ammonia and Urea.

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LITHIUM HYDROXIDE

• This compound is not very soluble in water
  at the level needed to generate a strong
  hydroxide ion concentration. If relaxers
  containing Lithium hydroxide are not
  properly manufactured, there will be crystal
  formation. This will increase scalp
  irritation.

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OIL RELEASE FROM A RELAXER

• This process will provide conditioning
  benefit.
• Prevent excessive penetration of Hydroxide
  ions
• Reduces cuticle damage.

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NO-BASE RELAXERS

• The idea behind this was to increase the
  levels of the oil so as to provide
  adequate protection for the hair and scalp.
  The wrong choice of emulsifier or
  combination of emulsifiers will prevent oil
  release

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INGREDIENTS IN RELAXER

• EMULSIFYING WAXES
• CO-EMULSIFYING WAXES
• MINERAL OIL
• PETROLATUM
• HUMECTANTS
• WATER
• ACTIVES

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Comparison Lye Vs No-Lye
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Characteristic good relaxer

• Good stability
• Good spreading during application
• Good rinse off
• Good relaxation
• Good conditioning
• Little or no irritation

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Quats in relaxers

• Not all quarternary compound are stable at
  a high pH. The selection of quats that are
  stable and will participate in the
  conditioning process of the hair is very
  important.

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Humectants In Relaxers

• Humectants are hygroscopic materials that
  have the property of absorbing water vapour
  from moist hair until a certain degree of
  dilution is attained.
• The dilution depends on the character of
  the humectant used and the relative humidity
  of the surrounding air.

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Humectant In Relaxers(cont.)

• The concentration of humectant such as
  Propylene Glycol used in relaxer is
  normally too low for it to be in
  equilibrum with the average atmospheric
  humidity.
• Propylene Glycol in relaxers can serve
  other purpose

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Propylene Glycol In Relaxer

• Propylene Glycol as a solvent for
  dispersing Calcium Hydroxide.

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TYPES OF HAIR DAMAGE

• UV-Radiation sulfur containing amino acid
  are sensitive to oxidation, in particular
  Cystine to Cysteic acid. Aromatic amino
  acids such as Tryptophan and Tyrosine are
  degraded by light
• Blow drying
• Chemical- relaxers etc
• Mechanical- combing/stretching

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UV DAMAGE ON HUMAN HAIR

• According to the study conducted by
  Gonzenbach,H., Johncock,W., Depolo,K.F and
  others, they found that black hair is much
  less sensitive to UV-radiation than
  Caucasian hair.

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Some Principal Platform for Hair Damage.

• Chemical change of the fiber as a result
  of chemical treatment.
• Mechanical changes as a result of
  mechanical stress such as combing.
• Sunlight exposure

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Some Info On Sunlight Exposure Of the
Human Hair

• A gradual decrease in breaking strength
• Lost of plasticity
• Reduction in setting ability and reduction
  in the rate of both tensile and torsional
  stress-relaxation.
• Loss of tryptophan and tyrosine content.
• Steady decrease in content

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• Increase in cysteic acid content.
• Increase in cysteine content.
• Increase in hydrodisulfide content (i.e
  - S-S-H) - from disulfide scission.
• A steady increase in protein ketoacyl end
  groups indicating protein main chain
  scission. (i.e Hair- NH-CO-CO-R)

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• Steady increase in alkali solubility- more
  acidic group present.
• Loss of color and other damage- damage due
  to hydroxyl radical and in the case of
  relaxer, formation of sodium sulfite- ( brown
  coloration).

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DIFFERENT TYPES MAINTENANCE FORMULA

• Microemulsion gels
• Carbomer gels
• Setting Lotions
• Dressing cream
• Conditioning Shampoo
• Pre-treatment Lotions
• Reconstructing conditioners
• Hot oil

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STYLING GELS

• Microemulsion gels- for soft hold and
  moisturization. Usually formulated with
  Phosphate esters and mineral oils
• Carbomer gels- For strong lasting hold.They
  contain carbomers which are a high
  molecular weight polyacrylic acids. The
  neutralization of these compounds with the
  suitable base will lead to ionic
  dissociation of the carboxylate group and
  the formation of a polymer that is
  polyelectrolyte.

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Strong Lasting Hold From Gels

• The combination of the carbomer and
  fixative polymer will cause flaking and
  itching if not properly formulated.
• The use of ethoxylated triglyceride in the
  formulas will help to plasticize the flakes
  and reducing itching.

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Maintenance Products (cont.)

• Hair dressing Cream
• Conditioning Shampoo
• Hot oils

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Neutralizing Shampoo

• All relaxer treated hair will need to be
  neutralized and cleaned. The term
  neutralizing shampoo was designed to meet
  this need.

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Neutralizing Shampoo

• ACID/BASE concept.
• Relaxers are Basic in Nature
• Neutralizing Shampoo are acidic

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Components of Neutralizing Shampoo.

• Cleansing Agents - They are in most cases
  the Alkyl Sulfates such as Sodium Lauryl
  Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium
  Lauryl Sulfate and the Ammonium Laureth
  Sulfates. Other cleansing agents include the
  Sulfosuccinates, Betaines and the
  Sarcosinates.

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Foam Boosters

• Foam boosters are necessary in shampoos
  because the lather obtained from the
  primary surfactants is loose and lacy.
  Boosters are used to enrich and tighten
  the lather. The fatty amides are commonly
  used with the favorites being Lauramide DEA
  and sometimes Cocamide DEA. They also
  enhance viscosity.

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Condititoners in Neutralizing Shampoos

• Healthy hair wants to remain Hydrophobic.
  Some of the shampoo will render the hair
  very Hydrophilic by dissolving the natural
  lips on the hair

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Conditioning A Relaxed Hair

• The conditioning process for a relaxed hair
  should be right immediately after a relaxer
  treatment. Relaxed hair is highly negatively
  charged ready to accept a cationic agent.

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CREAM RINSE CONDITIONER

• Long fatty quat- Must be good emulsifiers
• Fatty alcohol ratio to quats
• Viscosity

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Attributes of a Good Conditioner

• Improve wet and dry combability
• fly-Away reduction
• Protect the surface of the hair
• Improve manageability of the hair
• Improve Sheen
• Impart Softness
• Improve Luster

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TYPES OF CONDITIONING COMPOUNDS USED

• Quaternary Ammonium Compounds
• Cationic Polymers
• Proteins
• Fatty Alcohols
• Silicones
• Oils

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Quat Function In Conditioners

• Improving hair combability-reduction in dry and
  wet combing force (detangling)
• Protection Of Hair From Surface Damage- decrease
  in cuticle abrasion, cuticle recementation and
  split ends repair.
• Antistatic (Reducing fly-away)- Increase in
  mobility of positive charge on hair surface
  due to increase in the conductivity of hair
  surface.

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Future Trend In Ethnic Products

• Damage control
• Product design for damage hair

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Hair Treatment Products

• Highly rich with Proteins, Protein
  derivatives, humectants and quats- Surface
  treatment.
• High molecular weight proteins and low
  molecular weight proteins

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Ethnic Hair Trend

• Braiding- The hair should be long enough to
  braid.This is a style that requires some kind of
  film forming oil base or water base product to
  keep the hair in style by twisting.
• Comb Twist Style- This is the technique used for
  very short hair (Men tend to wear this style).Use
  a rat-tail comb to achieve this look, a small
  amount of a beeswax cream or gel is applied to
  the hair to tight locks.
• Finger Twist- This technique requires hair to be
  at least half an inch.Apply a small amount of
  beeswax cream or gel and twirl it around your
  finger until it makes coils.

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Ethnic Hair Trend Cont.

• Palm Rolls- The hair should be at least three
  inches for this technique. Place a small amount
  of gel in your palm and work this through the
  hair back and forth, the goal is to have uniform
  wave style roll in very closely.
• Two-Strand Twist- At least two inches of hair is
  needed for this style. Apply a generous amount of
  gel on hair strand and twist for a rope like
  shape.
• Others styles- Corn roll, Relaxed look,
  Texturizer etc.

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Ethnic Skin

• Black women are very conscious of
  hyperpigmentation since their skin scars so
  easily.
• The sun also makes hyperpigmentation worse.
• Common misconception that blacks do not suffer
  from Melanoma. According to studies, blacks that
  suffer from Melanoma always have the worse
  prognosis.
• Ethnic skin will produce more Melanin and create
  dark spots especially during pregnancy.
• Need for dark spot remover.

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Ethnic Skin

• Razor bumbs problem with men
• Skin dryness
• Oily skin

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Fade Creams and Lotions

• Fading dark spots, controlling oily skin,
  blemishes and preventing ashy skin are major
  concern for ethnic skin.
• Fading is the most challenging category because
  ingredients used to fade dark spots such as
  Hydroquinone and others have some restrictions or
  are very irritating to the skin.