Title: Ledgewood Farm greenhouse construction
1Ledgewood Farm greenhouse construction
to
Im Finished!
2 Post layout
- The string will be 7 above the ground and the
posts will be driven until the proper drill hole
is at the string.
3Spacing and driving posts
- Use the template to space the posts four feet
apart and the large bolt to hammer the posts into
the ground. Use a bar or drill to make a pilot
hole for the post.
4Level the two lines of posts
- Use a line level or laser to level the frame left
to right so you have a level end wall. The frame
can slope end to end over the length.
5Squaring the greenhouse
- Using the table in the instructions and a tape
measure square the two sides of one end and then
square the other end. The tape must be the same
height at all three points.
6Squaring the greenhouse
- Check your measurements to make sure your frame
is square before you pound all the posts.
7Assemble the bows
- The three pieces of the bow are assembled on the
ground, bolted with the 2-1/2 carriage bolts and
then erected as a unit.
8Assembling the 26 and 30 foot bows
The cap piece slides inside the bow and is bolted
with a 5/16x2-1/2 carriage bolt. The black mark
helps line up the holes.
9Erecting the 14,17, and 21 foot bows
- A pair of vise grips or clamp is attached to the
bow at the black mark. When the bow is lowered
into the post the clamp will stop the bow at the
proper depth. A nail is used to hold the bow in
place until the baseboard is attached.
10Finish erecting the bows
- Compress the bow and slide the other side into
the ground post until the clamp stops the bow.
Use the nail to hold the bow in place.
11Erecting the 26 and 30 foot bows
The 3 hole insert connects to the bow with the
hole that is farthest from the end of the insert.
Do not use the end that has a hole 1 from the
end. Connect using a 5/16x2-1/2 bolt.
The tall post 30 foot bow insert has 2 holes. One
to connect the insert to the bow and one to
connect the insert to the post.
1226 and 30 foot bow connected to the post
The insert slides into the post until the bow
rests snug on top of the post. The holes in the
insert and post should be aligned. Do not install
the bolt in the ground post yet.
13Installing purlins
- Install the lowest purlin on one side of the
house. Start with the number 1 pipe from a bundle
and bolt it in place. Then install number 2,3,
and 4 etc.
14Purlin joints
A 2 bolt connects the purlin pieces together.
The joints will be between bows. Install the 2
bolts as you add purlin pieces.
15Install remaining purlins
- The remaining purlins are installed from bottom
to top. Always install the ridge pole last.
16Corner brace installation
Clamp the lower end of a corner brace to the
second bow using a long clamp, then pivot the
corner brace so the other end can be clamped to
the fourth bow with another long clamp.
17Finishing the corner braces
Use 2 clamps and one bolt to connect the bow and
the brace together at the intersection. The
clamps will make a figure 8 shape.
18Crossties (if you have them)
The crosstie is connected to the bow with a brace
band and bolt. Level the crossties by making the
ends equal distance from the purlins on each side
of the house.
19Crosstie and drops
Connect the drop to the crosstie using two small
clamps. One attached to the ridge purlin and the
other around the crosstie.
20Adding the trusses to the crossties
The end of the truss with the drill hole in the
center attaches to the bow with a large brace
band and the other end attaches to the crosstie
with a small brace band.
21Baseboard
Mark the post so the baseboard is about 2 into
the soil and the top of the board is straight the
length of the house. A 2x10 board is preferred.
Drill and bolt the baseboard to the post. Attach
the 30 bow to the post using a 5/16x2-1/2 bolt
through the insert coupler..
Dig the soil out of the way so the top of the
board will line up with the marks on the posts.
22More baseboard
Use a second layer or one wide plank. Connect the
joints with pieces of board. One 2x10 board is
preferred so there isnt an air gap between the
boards.
23Hip board for roll-up sides
Place the hip board on the bow using the marks on
the bow as a guide. Drill the hip board and
attach it to the bow using the included bolts and
nuts. Make sure to keep the hip parallel to the
baseboard by using the marks on the bow. Pressure
treated 2x4 is preferred.
24Hip board and attaching poly
This piece of wood helps with snow and rain
shedding. Pressure treated 5/4x 1-3/4strips are
preferred.
25Starting the end walls
Place a sill along the ground from side to side.
Use banding to attach the sill to the bow and
baseboard. Toenail the studs to the sill using
the included 3 decking screws.
26Metal banding to attach studs
2.
1.
4.
3.
Attach the banding with one screw on the outside
of the stud, then wrap the banding over the bow
and attach the band to the top of the stud. Use
the 3 decking screws.
27Finish the end wall
You may use any material to finish the ends.
Poly, clear structured sheets, boards, or
plywood. I use ½ CDX plywood as it is fast and
durable.
28Block between studs
- Use some of the left over 2x4 or 2x6 lumber
to block between the studs. The blocks will be on
their vertical edge in between the studs. This
gives a surface to attach the poly and sheathing.
29How about doors?
Any door size will work, I like two 4 by 8
doors for a large opening so a small tractor fits
inside. A simple, yet secure latch is made from
3/8 inch steel rod and a block of wood.
30Are you ready for the poly?
Attach the poly at one end and roll it down the
ridge pole. If you start with the roll centered
on the ridge it is easy to keep it that way.
If you arent so brave, roll it out on the ground
and pull it up over the frame using ropes. Make
sure it ends up straight, square and right side
up.
31Here we go!
It really isnt too scary! You have the roll, the
long pipe and your most trusted to provide
stability. Stop a couple of times to pull the
roll tight and make sure it is centered. Did you
tighten all of the bolts?
32Cleats ready to attach
The cleats should have screws already started so
they can be installed quickly before the wind
blows. Make sure to pre-drill the cleats using a
5/32 bit.
33Double Poly
- Unroll the outer layer before you unfurl the
inner layer. Make sure both layers are straight
and pulled taut from the end before you unfurl
them together.
34Spread out the poly
The poly should be pulled straight, square, and
comfortably snug.
35Attaching the strapping
Attach all of the strapping as fast as you can
with a few screws and then go back and drive the
rest. Make sure the screws pull the two boards
together so the plastic cant slip.
36Like this
It takes less than ten minutes to finish each
side.
37Installing the Inflation fan kit
- The bracket attaches to the second bow from one
end using two Tek screws. Pull the inside layer
of poly down into position and cut a hole in the
poly matching the circle in the bracket.
38Installing the flange for the inflation kit
- The plastic flange will secure the inner poly to
the metal bracket. Now bring the outer layer of
poly into position and cleat both layers using
the wood strapping.
39Roll up side installation
Attach the handle to the roll up pipe with a 2
bolt and nut.
2
1
Connect the sections of pipe with the 12x3/4
Tek screws. Keep them in numerical order.
40Attach the poly to the roll up pipe
Roll one wrap of poly around the pipe and put a
clip onto the pipe. Be careful to keep the poly
straight as you proceed the length of the house.
The roll up will be perfect!
41Make sure roll up is straight
Pull down on the pipe to make sure the poly is
wrapped tight. The roll up should be straight. If
not, lower it and adjust the clips.
42Drill holes for eye bolts
Attach the eye bolts about midway between two
bows. The bottom 4 eyebolt will be 3 below the
top of the baseboard and the top 5 eye bolt will
be through the hip board and the poly cleat. The
ropes will be located every other bow, starting
at the end bow.
43Attaching the ropes
Rope attached to the hip board bolt
and to the baseboard
44and were finished!
45Time to wake up!