Crampons

1
Crampons

• Ben Ingram

2
Overview

• Introduction
• Crampon Types
• Fitting Crampons
• Using Crampons
• Caveats

3
Introduction

• What are crampons? Metal spike that attach to
  your feet
  
• What are they good for? Give traction on ice or
  steep snow
  

4
Crampon Types Number of Points

• Instep crampons (about six points on instep) -
  Improve traction, but not good for
  mountaineering
  
• 10 point crampons (no front points) better
  traction, but still not good for steep climbs
  
• 12 point crampons (front points) the standard
  for mountaineering

5
Crampon Types Flexibility

• Hinged
• More comfortable
• Tiring to front point
• Use with any boot

• Rigid
• Less comfortable
• Less tiring to front point
• Can only be used with rigid boots

6
Crampon Types Point Orientation

• Horizontal Front Points
• Better in snow and soft ice
• Less balling
• Best for general mountaineering

• Vertical Front Points
• Better in hard ice
• Dangerous balling

7
Crampon Types Attachment

• Straps
• Work with any boot
• Harder to put on in cold

• Step-in
• Only work with welted boots
• Easy to put on

8
Crampon Types Summary

• With mouse boots, use hinged, horizontal point,
  strap-on crampons like the black crampons with
  yellow straps or the old school crampons
  
• With Sorels, only the old school crampons fit

9
Fitting Crampons

• Fit is the extremely important. Crampons that
  fall off cause accidents and slow down the
  group.
  
• Adjust crampons at home
• Adjust length and instep width so that crampon
  holds boot without straps
  
• Strapping pattern
• Test crampon fit
• Practice putting on at home, so can put on with
  gloves or in cold

10
Crampon Use

• Two approaches
• Get as many points as possible into ground
• Front pointing

11
Caveats

• Theyre sharp and put holes in clothing and
  packs
  
• Balling causes many accidents
• Dont glissade in crampons!