Notes on Detailing a Weaver 280

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Notes on Detailing aWeaver 2-8-0

• By
• Joe Foehrkolb
• Baldwin Forge Machine
• Baldwin, Maryland

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The Weaver 2-8-0

• The Weaver 2-8-0 locomotive has filled a long
  time need for a generic 2-8-0 steam locomotive in
  O scale. The engine is available at a reasonable
  price in many road names and undecorated.
  Because it is a generic 2-8-0 it lends itself
  to modifications by the modeler. Since there is
  no prototype to shoot for when detailing,
  virtually anything within reason can be done to
  it.

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Weaver 2-8-0 Modifications

• The following slide presentation illustrates some
  modifications to these models performed in my
  shop. The photos show work on two different
  models taken as the jobs progressed. The first
  modification I considered was replacing the side
  and main rods with better looking parts. This is
  not difficult to do, but it does require a drill
  press and some skill in fitting up the parts.

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Side Main Rods

• In my opinion, the side and main rods which come
  with the Weaver engine are poorly formed and
  oversize. There are sections of the side rods
  between the second and third driver and third and
  fourth driver that measure over 15 in scale
  height.

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Original Rods on the Engine

• Here is a photo of the original Weaver rods on
  the loco. Notice the high section in the side
  rod behind the 3rd driver and the main rod which
  is too large and has no taper between the
  crankpin and the crosshead.

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Rods

• Now take a look at the same model with the Sunset
  side and main rods installed.

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PRR H-10 Rods

• Fortunately there is a replacement for these
  rods. The driver wheel base of the Weaver 2-8-0
  is exactly the same as the Central Locomotive
  Works PRR H-10 locomotive. There is also a
  source for Sunset H-10 rods which are also
  exactly the right length. I have used both sets
  of rods in converting these locomotives. The
  Sunset rods, which are pre-assembled are easier
  to install.

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Comparison Photo

• Here is a photo of the Weaver rods alongside of
  the Sunset rods prior to modifying the Sunset
  rods for the diameter of the Weaver crankpins.

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Drilling the Sunset Rods

• I drilled the main crankpin (3rd driver) hole No
  11 and the 1st, 2nd and 4th crankpin holes No 27.
  I also drilled the hole in the main rod No 11.
  Tap the crosshead attachment hole 1-72. I used
  the original crossheads. You may opt to turn a
  new main driver crankpin to avoid drilling the
  main pin holes so large but mine came out fine.
  The next photo shows drilling rods on the drill
  press .

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Mounting the Side Rods

• You have to make a right and left side set of
  side rods. The front crankpin bosses on the rods
  must be filed down to the thickness of the
  original Weaver rods in order to use the original
  crankpin screws and keep them from hitting the
  crossheads as they revolve. After the rods are on
  the model you cannot see the thinned down front
  crankpin bosses.

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Mounting the Side Rods

• I machined bushings for insertion into the rear
  driver crankpin holes to keep the short crankpin
  screws from going in too far and binding the
  thicker rear bosses on the Sunset side rods. You
  can file your rear side rod bosses down or order
  longer crankpin screws from Weaver. (NOTE The
  2nd driver crankpin screws are longer.) Heres a
  photo of the modified rods.

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Removing the Old Main Rods

• The original main rods are attached to the
  crossheads with rivets. I simply filed the heads
  off the rivets and punched them out of the
  crossheads. The rivets stay attached to the old
  main rods and have no further use.

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Mounting the Main Rods

• I discarded the sleeves and spacers that came
  with the Weaver engine on the main crankpin and
  made 1/16 thick spacer washers (drilled No 10)
  to go between the main and side rods on the main
  crankpin. You can cut and file the original
  Weaver spacers and make these up without a lathe.

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Mounting the Main Rods

• I attached the main rods to the crossheads with
  hex head 1-72 machine screws available in most
  hobby shops. You may have to get 1/4 long
  screws and file them down to fit so they do not
  protrude out the back of the main rods and hit
  the first driver crankpin screws.

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Side View of Loco with new Rods

• The following photo shows a side view of the
  entire loco with the new rods installed.
• Note also that the driver tire rims have been
  painted and the entire mechanism given an
  overspray of Floquil grimy black to give the loco
  an in service look.

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Locomotive Brake Cylinders

• Since the previous photo was taken I have added
  PSC brake shoes (P/N 40135) to the locomotive.
  The castings come with a separate piston rod and
  clevis. Drill the brake cylinder out with a No
  55 drill and solder the piston rod into the
  cylinder. The operating lever, rod and supports
  are made from brass stock. I used small brass
  pins to attach the rod supports to the loco frame.

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Locomotive Brake Cylinders

• In order to allow the use of the on/off switch
  for the smoke unit and access to the rear boiler
  mounting screws, the location of the holes for
  mounting the brake cylinder castings is
  important. I used a No 44 drill and located the
  holes 9/16 in from the back of the frame and
  3/16 down from the stepped out section of the
  frame.

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Locomotive Brake Cylinders

• I filed the mounting pins on the rear of the
  cylinder castings slightly so that they were a
  press fit into the No 44 mounting holes, pressed
  them in with the aid of a pair of needle nose
  pliers, aligned them and put a drop of super glue
  around each casting at the joint. Operating
  levers were pinned to the clevis castings and
  soldered. Heres a couple of photos before and
  after painting.

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Boiler Details

• The Weaver boiler casting and details are very
  nice but I did not like the bug eye
  classification lamps sitting high on the top of
  the smokebox nor did I care for the small
  headlight lens in the headlight casting. Take a
  look at a photo comparing the original look to a
  front end modified to my taste.

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Smokebox Modifications

• You may be satisfied with the front end of your
  model as it comes but if you want to change it
  like I did there are many sources for locomotive
  classification lamp castings out there. I use
  Cal Scale (Bowser) No 3001 for my lamps. I
  install them on the front of the smokebox and use
  clear jewels on both the front and side lenses.
  My lamps do not illuminate but you can make yours
  light if you want to.

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Headlight

• I removed the bulb and lens from the headlight
  casting, The I removed the headlight casting from
  the headlight bracket with a little gentle
  prying. Holding the headlight casting in a drill
  press vice I drilled the headlight casting out to
  9/32 inside diameter and turned an aluminum
  reflector and lucite lens for the casting.

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Tender Details

• The Weaver tender appears to be a very nice copy
  of a USRA tender used on the 2-8-2 and 4-6-2
  locomotives. In order to accommodate the hi rail
  couplers on the 3 rail version of these models,
  Weavers builder omitted all of the rear tender
  detail. Here is a photo of the rear of the
  tender prior to modifications.

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Tender Details

• I opted to install foot boards, coupler lift bar,
  poling pockets and an air hose casting to the
  rear of the tender as well as modifying the
  backup light in the same manner that I did to the
  loco headlight. Here is a photo of the rear a
  finished tender prior to painting the details.
  Although the reflector and lamp are in place, the
  backup light lens has not been inserted. A Kadee
  coupler was installed.

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Tender Details

• I used stanchions from my stockpile of parts
  instead of the PSC item mentioned in the next
  slide. I also made my own poling pole on the
  lathe but PSC has a nice one with mounting
  straps. It is their P/N41109.
• You will need to make a filler for the opening in
  the rear tender beam also. I used 1/4 wide
  0.032 brass strip from KS. Length of the
  opening is 1-1/4.

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Tender Details

• The Precision Scale Company (PSC) parts used to
  detail the tender are
• 4676 Rerail Frogs
• 4322 Poling Pockets
• 5134 Tender Steps
• 4278 Air Hose
• 4098 Stanchions

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Tender Details

• Here is a photo of the rear of the tender after
  painting and weathering has been completed. I
  think it is a major improvement to the model.
  All castings are by Precision Scale. In addition
  to the rear tender details, I added Precision
  Scale re-railing frogs to the right side of the
  tender and a home made poling pole to the left
  tender side. Take a look!

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Have Fun!

• This presentation shows you some of the things
  that can be done to customize your Weaver 2-8-0
  with a little modeling skill and effort. Lots of
  other options are there to consider, like a nice
  five chime whistle casting installed on the left
  or right side of the steam dome to replace the
  very plain rear mounted one. Something to think
  about! Have fun!