Fragrances in Consumer

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Fragrances in Consumer Products
Judy Kerschner International Flavor and
Fragrances Bergen Academy April 21, 2006
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Fragrance Human Psychology
(Human beings) are avid smellers. We attract
our mates through smell, identify our babies
through smell, experience spirituality through
smell and remember the experiences of our lives
through smell. Smell is the muse of
memory... Browning wrote of devouring violets
to satiate himself with their scent. Walt
Whitman was the epic poet of body odor. Colette
was drunk on the smells of muskmelon,
honeysuckle, blue lilac, tea rose and the sea -
her heroines were too. Sappho described incense
burning in an apple grove summoning Aphrodite.
Without smell, there is no poetry of love. As Li
Po wrote You left three years ago. Still your
perfume haunts my solitude.
My Generation
March-April 2002
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How We Smell -
Odorants are volatile chemicals carried by
inhaled air to the Regio olfactoria (olfactory
epithelium) located in the roof of the two nasal
cavities of the human nose, just below and
between the eyes. The olfactory region of each
of the two nasal passages in humans is a small
area of about 2.5 square centimeters containing
in total approximately 50 million primary sensory
receptor cells.
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History of Perfume Greece
Greek Perfume Urns
By the 7th century BC, Athens had developed into
a mercantile center in which hundreds of
perfumers set up shop. Trade was heavy in
fragrant herbs such as marjoram, lily, thyme,
sage, anise, rose and iris, infused into olive,
almond, castor and linseed oils to make thick
unguents. These were sold in small, elaborately
decorated ceramic pots, similar to the small jars
still sold in Athens today.
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History of Perfume France
16th 17th centuries - Southern France (Grasse)
becomes a center of expertise for the growing,
extraction and distillation of essential oils.
France becomes the the Perfume center of the
world. Large scale cultivation processing of
valuable plants for oils such as rose soon was
centered there. And raw materials from around the
world were imported for processing. Extraction
distillation techniques were refined.
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History of Perfume The Organic Chemist

• Mid-1800s - From Germany came a new breed of
  Chemist that would revolutionize industry and
  bring an end to Alchemy. This type chemist
  used the scientific method to unravel chemical
  structures and create materials from coal,
  petroleum and other materials.
• 1855 First synthesis of cinnamaldehyde
• 1868 Commercial production of coumarin the
  first synthetic fragrance chemical
• 1874 Chemical structure of vanillin determined.
• 1876 Synthetic vanillin production starts.
• 1850 to 1900 Significant advances in
  elucidating major chemicals in Essential oils.

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The Perfumer An artist with a different palette
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Example of a Simple Fragrance
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Visualizing a Fragrance
Seduction/Freshness
TOP NOTE
Character
Cost
MIDDLE NOTE
Volatility
Long lasting memory
BACK (BASE) NOTE
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Fine Fragrance Design
Give initial impact of fragrance Provide
freshness Typically citrus, green notes
Lasts 15-30 minutes on skin
TOP NOTE
Give fragrance its character and depth Typically
spicy, leather, floral
Lasts 3-4 hours on skin
MIDDLE NOTE
Fragrance foundation Substantivity Typically
amber, musk
Lasts gt4 hours
BACK (BASE) NOTE
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Individual Fragrance Ingredients
Chemical structure does not always indicate odor
type

• Aldehyde C8 CH3(CH2)6CHO Orange
• Aldehyde C9 CH3(CH2)7CHO Rose
• Aldehyde C10 CH3(CH2)8CHO Citrus
• Aldehyde C11 CH3(CH2)9CHO
  Citrus-floral
• Aldehyde C12 CH3(CH2)10CHO Soapy
• Aldehyde C13 CH3(CH2)11CHO Waxy-citrus
• Aldehyde C14 CH3(CH2)12CHO Fatty-citrus

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Individual Fragrance Ingredients
Geranium (Rose-like, Citrus, Wood, Green)
Fragrance Categories Floral Fruity Woody Her
bal Balsam and Vanilla Spice Animal Marine Al
dehyde
Bergamot (Citrus, Lemon, Earl Grey Tea)
Cedarwood (Sawdust, Pencil Shavings, Dry)
Cis-3-Hexenol (Wet, Green, Cut Grass)
Clove (Spicy, Creamy)
Musk (Soft, Warm, Fluffy Clouds)
Calone (Watery, Dewy, Fresh)
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Perfumed Products

• Fine Fragrance (Happy, Chanel No. 5, etc)
• Air Care (Candles, Electricals, etc)
• Fabric Care (Detergents, Conditioners, etc)
• Personal Care (Shampoos, AP/DEOs, etc)
• Personal Wash (Bar Soaps, Liquid Body or Hand
  Wash, etc)
• Home Care (Dish Wash, All Purpose Cleaners, etc)

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Fragrance Predominate Deciding Factor!
People tell you they buy cleaning products based
on performance, said Dr. Pamela Dalton, a
cognitive psychologist at the Monell Chemical
Senses Center in Philadelphia. But the deciding
factor in blind tests is always fragrance.
New York Times March 6,
2002
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Typical Consumer Products are difficult to perfume

• For Fine Fragrances, the perfumer has availble
  circ.4000 ingredients and a simple solvent base
  (alcohol).
• For Functional Perfumery, the perfumer has only
  lt400 ingredients depending on the type of base
  (pH, solvent, color, etc).
• Because
• Many ingredients are not stable in acid or
  alkaline bases
• Many ingredients are broken down by bleach (TAED
  / Percarbonate)
• Many ingredients will react with the base to
  cause base instability (color, rheology, phase
  separation)
• and
• Limitations of product production process
• Limitations of packaging used
• Limitations of way the product is used

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• Fragrances in Consumer Products

• The Impact threshold of each perfume ingredient
• The mix of ingredients chosen
• The level used in the product
• The odour quality of the base
• The degree of interaction with the base
• The effect of processing the product
• The stability of the perfume during storage
• The interaction with the packaging
• The amount of product used by the consumer
• The wash conditions chosen by the consumer
• The amount of perfume deposited
• The amount of perfume retained after the wash
• The rate of release of the perfume over time

Need to understand and control
Need new technical routes and innovative
approaches ....and the ability to measure their
value
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Fragrance Performance
Measure Fragrance Performance
Combine analytical and sensory studies to
understand fragrance performance - Fine
Fragrance Diffusivity, Long-lasting - Personal
Wash POP, Bloom, Deposition, Substantivity -
Laundry POP, Deposition, Substantivity -
Home/Air Care Diffusivity, Fragrance Release,
Coverage of Mal-odors - AP/Deo POP,
Long-lasting, Coverage of Body Odor
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Applied Fragrance Technology Most important
drivers of technical performance
Ingredient Chemical and Physical
Properties Vapor pressure POP/Soap Log
p Bloom (Shower/Wash) Water
Solubility Deposition Odor
Threshold Substantivity (Long
lasting) Odor Intensity
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Applied Fragrance Technology Physical
characteristics of ingredients that influence
performance
Model Accord Neat Oil Wt in Oil
Model Accord Neat Oil Vapor Phase
Vapor Pressure
gt1000
100-1000
lt100
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Sensory Dose/Response Curve
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Applied Fragrance Technology Sensory Dose Response
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Design of High Performing Fragrances
Marketing
Research Development
Consumer Insight
Creative Fragrance Development
Technical Fragrance Development
Perfumers