Title: Buy online handwoven double ikat clothing for women from kalamargam
1Kalamargam
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501
2- Kalamargam - Path for Art was conceived with the
idea of creating market access for traditional
craftspeople in rural India through design
intervention. Paying fair liveable wages and
providing sustained work opportunities is one of
our core values along with putting traditional
crafts in the spotlight. We also believe that
fashion is a great platform to empower artisans
from marginalized communities and also preserve
our rich textile heritage.
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501
3Telia Rumal Double Ikat
- We had our first tryst with the Telia Rumal
double Ikat weave when we visited Puttapaka
village in 2012. The amount of precision and math
needed to weave these geometric patterns amazed
us. - Origin History
- Telia Rumal literally means Oily Handkerchief.
The craft has its origin in Andhra Pradesh and
dates back to early 19th Century. Though it
started in Chirala, its mostly practised by a
few weavers in Puttapaka village of Nalgonda
district. The rectangular telia cloths were used
as a veil/scarves by women and a multipurpose
cloth by men (turban, lungi, shoulder cloth).
They were also exported to Asia, Africa and other
Gulf countries. We were told that the printed
replicas produced by Manchester textiles was the
reason behind the decline of this craft. The
technique was later adapted to create sarees and
dupattas.
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501
4- Process
- Telia Rumal is a very intricate and laborious
double ikat weave. As the name suggests the yarn
is treated with oil. The products used for the
treatment of the yarn are sheep dung, castor pod
ashes and oil. The treated yarn which is used for
the warp (length) and weft (width) is tied and
dyed in accordance with a predetermined
geometrical design. Each of the warp and weft
threads are individually positioned on the loom
prior to weaving hence its crucial for the
weaver to ensure perfection. Only 3 colors are
traditionally used red black and white in
geometrical designs. Weaving a telia rumal needs
a great amount of practice and precision for the
warp and weft to be meticulously converted to an
artistic design. The number of motifs makes it
more complex and difficult to weave.
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501
5- Changes over the years
- Due to the laborious process of the oil
treatment, it has been done away with. Textile
collectors and political leaders still commission
the oil treated sarees though and they cost
Rs.1.50 lakh upwards. The motifs were originally
woven using the double ikat technique. However,
to keep traditional craft alive and make it more
accessible, the master weavers introduced these
motifs in the single ikat technique weft
design. A combination of vat and naptol dyes are
being used to weave sarees, dupattas and
yardages. Number of motifs has increased from 2
to 4, 6, 9, 12 and 36 with multiple color ways.
Weavers from other villages in Nalgonda have also
started weaving Telia Rumal motifs. However,
since they are not as skilled as the Puttapaka
weavers, the motifs appear to be stretched out
and blurred at times. Most Telia Rumals are now
mercerised. Mercerisation is a finishing
technique where the yarn is chemically treated
for strength, lustre and better color absorption. - Coming to an important aspect
- Whether to call it a Telia Rumal or Double Ikat.
Master weavers have distinct views on this. Some
of them are of the opinion that since the oil
treatment has been done away with the term Telia
Rumal should be replaced with double ikat. And
some master weavers refer to it as the Telia
Rumal, since the traditional motifs are still
being woven and using the term has helped
popularise the weave.
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501
6- As a responsible brand that promotes sustainable
fashion through fair trade practices, we are
doing our bit to create new markets for the Telia
Rumal/Double Ikat through contemporary design.
Our range of garments and lifestyle accessories
is an endeavour towards preserving traditional
craft and create sustained work oppurtunities
for artisan communities in rural India.
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501
7Contact Us For More Details
- Website https//kalamargam.com/
- Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
- Call 9833895501
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501
8Thank You
Email support_at_Kalamargam.com
Ph. No 9833895501