ROCOCO

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ROCOCO

• 18TH CENTURY
• Rock and shell

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Early rococo-Men

• Early 1700s in mens fashion similar to
  Restoration
• Louis XIV still rules in France, George I
  (pictured) gains throne in 1714
• Most male garments remain in use, with variations

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Rococo-men

• JUSTACORPS gets fuller skirt, retains boot
  cuffs
• WAISTCOAT is long, usually same length as
  justacorp
• BREECHES narrow
• Long periwigs popular
• TRICORNE hat is popular through century

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Rococo-men

• Louis XV takes throne after Regency in 1723
• His mistresses, Madame de Pompadour and Madame du
  Barry, exert great stylistic influence on the
  court and fashion
• Relaxed, frivolous, luxurious, sensual, elegant,
  feminine
• Expansion of palace at Versailles

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Rococo-men

• _at_ 1720 long waistcoat, no collar
• Periwig

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• American 1715

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• Boys suits, _at_ 1700

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Rococo-men

• 1729
• Full-skirted justacorps
• Long Waistcoat
• BAG WIG
• Tricorne

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Rococo-men

• BAGWIG hair caught in back in a black bag, tied
  with a bow

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Rococo-men

• BAGWIG and other methods of binding hair

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Rococo-men

• SHIRT May have a tall collar band or a fold-over
  collar
• Front opening may be simple split or have ruffles
  sewn into edge-JABOT
• Long sleeves usually end in a cuff band and/or
  ruffle ruffle may be of lace or shirt material

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Rococo-men

• WAISTCOAT Early 1700s, brocade

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Rococo-men

• Modern Re-creation, _at_1720-30
• Fuller skirt, no collar, Boot cuffs
• Tricorne

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Rococo-men

• George II

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Clocking

• Decorative embroidery on stockings, particularly
  mens hosiery, at the ankle

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Rococo-men

• Modern re-creation, _at_1740
• Note long waistcoat, but trimmer cut to coat,
  still no collar
• Buckled shoes

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Rococo-men

• Modern re-creation, _at_1750
• Note Boot Cuff, narrower cut to justacorps, no
  collar

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Rococo-men

• _at_ 1740 trimmer cut to justacorps, no collar
• Still a long waistcoat
• Tricorne hat
• Jabot

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Mans Suit _at_1745

• Notice full-skirted coat, boot-cuff, long
  embroidered waistcoat

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Rococo-men

• BREECHES remain about the same for most of the
  century, with FRONT FALL opening, buttoned legs
  ending below knee, lacing at CB to adjust fit

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Rococo-men

• BANYAN a long, loose robe, worn about the house,
  like a smoking jacket
• Often worn with a cap or turban-like hat

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Rococo-men

• _at_ 1760s
• Blue silk suit, embroidered in silver
• Lace JABOT
• BAGWIG
• TRICORNE

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Blue Suit, close-up
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Blue Suit, close up of embroidery, jabot
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Rococo-men

• Actual garments from _at_ 1760
• Note trimmer cut to justacorps, small stand
  collar, narrower sleeves
• Shorter waistcoat

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Rococo-men

• _at_1760
• Narrow justacorps, cut far back at sides, small
  stand collar
• Tricorne
• Cravat

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the marriage contract
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Mans Red Suit, _at_ 1760s
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Mans Blue Suit, _at_1760s

• Still has long waistcoat, but sleeves are
  trimmer, small stand collar

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Rococo-men

• Embroidered Waistcoat, _at_1770

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Rococo-men

• Later 1700s Note trim cut of coat, high collar,
  lack of large cuff
• Note trim fit of breeches

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Modern man wearing actual garments from _at_ 1785

• Note trim cut of coat, high collar
• Short waistcoat
• Watchfob

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Watchfobs

• Clips or pins to waistband of breeches, hangs out
  from under vest
• These are particularly ornate examples often
  worn on a wide velvet or satin ribbon

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Rococo- men and women

• This painting from _at_ 1740 shows woman in SACQUE
  or WATTEAU GOWN, also known as ROBE A LA
  FRANCAISE
• Men in periwigs, long and shorter waistcoats

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Rococo-women

• Modern woman wearing actual garment from 1760s
• SACQUE GOWN tell-tale pleats hanging from back,
  cut in-one with the skirt

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Sacque Gown

• Known by various names Sacque Gown, Sacque-back
  gown, Watteau gown, Robe a la Francaise
• In this style the bodice and skirt of the robe
  are cut together and go on like a jacket over the
  corset and petticoat

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Womens Shoes

• Very decorative
• High-heeled
• This style is known as having the French heel

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Rococo-women

• Typical gown of the 1750s, 1760s

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PANNIERS

• Used through most of century, particularly at
  court and in high society French were largest,
  English and American were smaller
• Term comes from French meaning bread baskets

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PANNIERS

• May also be a full hoop structure held flat front
  and back with ties inside, or separate side
  baskets (popular in England)

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PANNIERS

• Lady in large PANNIERS, _at_ 1770

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Dancer in Panniers

• Shes holding out her apron, a popular accessory
  in the later 1700s, especially when Marie
  Antoinette was playing shepherdess on her
  miniature farm!

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An extreme form of Pannier, referred to at the
time as a MANTUA

• Very flat from front to back, fabric fitted
  closely to hoops, displays ornate brocade and
  embroidery, used only at court

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Rococo-women

• Older woman, _at_ 1740
• ENGAGEANTS lace sleeve ruffles that show below
  the bodice sleeve
• Usually a separate item tied to the arm to look
  like a ruffle on the chemise

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Modern Woman wearing actual garments from _at_
1775-1785
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Rococo-women

• CALASH _at_ 1765
• A wire or reed-supported hood-like bonnet
• Protected tall hairstyles from weather
• Looks a little like a Conestoga wagon!

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Typical gown of _at_1770

• Note PANNIERS
• ENGAGEANTS
• ECHELLES

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Modern woman wearing actual garments from _at_1775

• Notice CALASH,
• Robe a la Polanaise
• Quilted petticoat

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Rococo-women

• Court dress, _at_1779

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Les Liasons Dangereuse

• Glenn Close wears typical gown of the 1770s,
  with a BERGERE HAT

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Les Liasons Dangereuse
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Actual court gown, _at_1780
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Madame de Pompadour, mistress to Louis XV, _at_ 1755
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Madame de Pompadour
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Madame de Pompadour

• Notice ROBE over edge of STOMACHER
• Bodice probably has pocket attached to inside to
  hold a BOSOM BOTTLE, a glass vial in which to
  insert fresh flowers

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Bodice detail showing Robe over stomacher
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Madame de Pompadour
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The Swing by Fragonard

• Notice BERGERE hat
• Man wears BAGWIG or TOUPET
• Man has JABOT
• Notice womans shoe flying off!

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Dancer in Panniers, Polonaise
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Bodice and Petticoat from _at_ 1775, missing Robe
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Rococo-women

• CARACO refers to a jacket-like bodice, worn over
  stays and stomacher, with a short skirt. Skirts
  could be quite short and almost disappear by the
  end of the century
• This caraco is worn with a FICHU

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The Escape by Fragonard

• _at_ 1785-1790
• Notice fichu, open robe

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Transitional Period, _at_1785

• Notice extreme hairstyles, collapse of panniers

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Revolutionary1775-1795

• 1776-1778 American Revolution against England
  and George III
• Patrick Henry (pictured) Give me liberty or
  give me death!
• 1789-1795 French Revolution against excesses of
  the monarchy and aristocracy Bastille Day
• 1793 Beheading of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
• 1793-95 The Reign of Terror
• 1795 Directory Established

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Revolutionary 1775-1795

• PANNIERS collapse during French Revolution, large
  overskirts bunched to back
• HEDGEHOG Hairstyle, large and frizzy for both men
  and women
• Man wears BANYAN

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REVOLUTIONARY

• Mens waistcoats are quite short, coats have
  larger collars

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revolutionary

• Older woman in MOBCAP
• FICHU fabric or lace scarf/shawl draped around
  neck, tucked into sash or neckline of bodice, or
  tied on outside

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revolutionary

• HEDGEHOG hair, large and frizzy, with curls
  hanging down back
• FICHU
• Large hats, now referred to as GAINSBOROUGH hats
  because they show up frequently in the painters
  portraits

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Revolutionary

• Emphasis on chest, bosom, pouter-pidgeon
  silhouette
• Trim, long sleeves
• Lack of understructure, soft, natural waist,
  often has a sash

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Women painters, late 1780s

• Notice hedgehog hair, fichu, large hat
• Skirt and panniers sometimes had slits in top to
  allow access, like a pocket

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revolutionary

• Mans Justacorps cut narrow, pulled to the back,
  high collar, probably English
• Woman in English gown with red sash, hedgehog
  hair and mobcap

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Revolutionary

• Woman _at_ 1795, probably English

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ROBESPIERRE

• Organizer of the French Revolution
• Oversees capture, imprisonment, and execution of
  the King and Queen
• Runs the democratic government during the Reign
  of Terror
• Is guillotined himself when the Directory is
  established

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SANS CULOTTES

• Means without breeches
• Refers to the revolutionaries in France who saw
  knee breeches as a symbol of the hated
  Aristocracy peasant men wore pants more like
  modern trousers, which became a symbol of the
  Resistance
• BICORNE hat with brim pushed up front and back
• COCKADE red, or red,white, and blue ribbon,
  usually in a rosette. Worn on hat or jacket to
  signify support for the revolution

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French Patriot, _at_1793

• Notice trim-fit trousers, short vest, tri-color
  baldric