HOW TO PUT UP WALLPAPER: A SIMPLE & EASY GUIDE

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HOW TO PUT UP WALLPAPER A SIMPLE EASY GUIDE
I was a wallpaper neophyte a short time ago. Even
though I jump into almost every DIY with both
feet, eager and willing to try anything,
wallpaper just didn't appeal to me. Interior
designers in gurgaon mixing the dough, matching
the pattern, not covering the light switch, it
all seemed so stressful. However, when I decided
that I wanted to wallpaper my bathroom, that was
enough, I had to put in the effort and learn how
to do it. Turns out it wasn't as bad or as
stressful as I expected after all! Since then
I've done some more wallpapering and learned
what you need to do and where you can cut
corners, so to speak. If you Googled "how to
wallpaper" and landed here, the purpose of this
article is to give you the easiest, least
stressful, or least confusing version of how you
can wallpaper your wall while giving it a decent
look. . If money is too tight for a decorator, if
you've ever wasted money on designer wallpaper,
or if you just like to do it yourself without
having to make multiple cups of tea to be
overcharged by a dealer For your time, then this
is my simple guide to what you need and how to
overcome potential wallpaper challenges.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
The essentials you will need for wallpapering are
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• Wallpaper (obviously), but sufficient. To make
  sure you buy enough wallpaper, measure the width
  and height of all your walls, then use a
  wallpaper calculator (which you can find online
  or download as an app). Your wallpaper sites will
  have all the details about it, including the
  pattern repeat (the measurement that tells you
  how far from the roll the pattern will match
  again) on the seller's website, on the back of
  the sample that you ordered (or on the label on
  the roll if you already have one). You will need
  these details to calculate the number of rolls
  you will need. The wallpaper used in this
  article is called 'Sumi' by Harlequin and you can
  buy it here.
• Wallpaper paste. Don't bother mixing your own
  use ready-to-use wallpaper paste that comes in a
  resealable jar to save you time and waste if you
  need to wallpaper in stages.
• Wallpaper paste. Don't bother mixing your own
  use ready-to-use wallpaper paste that comes in a
  resealable jar to save you time and waste if you
  need to wallpaper in stages.
• Wallpaper application brush. Choose one with a
  handle in the middle instead of ones that look
  like large combs. These are easier to fit into
  the pre-made pasta bins, and your dolls will
  thank you.
• A plumb line measuring tool. You can buy them at
  DIY stores and they are a great investment if
  you plan to put up a lot of wallpaper. However,
  if what you are doing is a simple feature wall,
  you can get a plumb measurer app on your
  smartphone for free.
• A sharp knife for cutting wallpaper or a pressure
  knife and a pair of scissors. Using a knife is
  easier, but scissors are best for pieces of
  wallpaper that won't cut because they're soaked
  in glue. You will also need scissors to cut the
  paper from the roll.
• Tape measure and pencil.
• A few clean rags to smooth the wallpaper on the
  wall.
• A wallpapering table (it's around 10 in DIY
  stores)

PREPARATION WORK
Make sure all of your walls are clean, dry, and
free of dirt and cobwebs. If there are any
"problem areas" such as moisture, be sure to
address these issues before wallpapering. Remove
any nails, hooks or screws with pliers. Fill
large holes with filler (you can get cheap
pre-mixed tubes from the DIY store) and sand the
holes before applying the wallpaper so it
doesn't cause bulging under the tape.
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GETTING STARTED
Pick an "easy" area of the wall (that has no
light switches or outlets) to start with. If
possible, start with an area that is less
visible when finished (if a piece of furniture
passes in front, for example). That way, if your
first one or two strips of wallpaper have a few
errors as you enter your "wallpaper slot", it's
not the end of the world. Measure the length of
the wall to be wallpapered, then add
approximately 20cm to the measurement (taking
into account the top and bottom to account for
crooked walls or inaccurate measurements).
Interior designers in gurgaon unroll the paper on
the pasting table, then using a tape measure and
a pencil make a mark on the back of the paper
where it needs to be cut. Fold the paper over
itself making sure it is flush with the edges and
cut the first strip. Using your plumb tool or
fixture, draw a straight vertical line on the
wall, close enough to the edge of your first
strip, but not covered by your first roll of
paper. Use this marked vertical line as your
main guide when applying the paper to make sure
you place the first roll straight. Don't be
fooled by door frames, ceiling, or baseboards, as
most of the time they will be at a slight angle!
APPLYING YOUR FIRST STRIP
Now that you have your first piece cut out and
your plumb drawn, it's time to apply it to the
wall. La regla del papel tapiz siempre ha sido
que pegas la pared y pegas el papel, pero
realmente no entiendo por que. himself. Instead,
I just give the wall a generous coat of glue
(first place a roller against the wall and mark
the distance along the wall to glue), then just
stick a small piece of paper in the top corners
to make it easy to put on. first Apply your
strip to the top of the wall, then smooth it
gently in fluid motions with your clean cloth.
Smooth from the middle of the paper to the edges.
If it doesn't work perfectly, don't worry, take
a breath, gently peel it off, then reapply.
Remember to use smooth strokes so as not to
crease the paper. Once you think everything is
fine, use your rag to smooth the edges. Again,
using your fabric, push your paper up until it
enters the crack where the paper meets the
ceiling and the baseboard, creating a faint line
that will serve as a mark for where you will cut
the surplus.
CUTTING AWAY THE EXCESS PAPER
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You can cut freehand along the notch line or
stick a straightedge into the crack and cut along
it. Or, if you find the knife tricky, pull the
paper away from the wall slightly and cut the
jagged line with a pair of scissors. All three
options work well, but take your time and be
patient with this part of the wallpaper. Chances
are you're cutting too much paper (if this
happens, scroll down for my quick fix!)
THE SECOND STRIP - MATCHING UP THE PATTERN
The second strip is more difficult than the
first, since you can't measure and glue it, you
have to match the pattern. Depending on the type
of wallpaper pattern you have chosen, it can be
easy or a bit complicated. Patterns with a large
repeat drop mean you can get a lot of
scrap. Take the roll and slowly roll it out
against your first strip until you can see where
the pattern meets. if there's a lot of scrap
paper on top, make a mark so you can cut away
what you won't need. Make sure your second strip
takes into account the length of the wall, the
excess at the top of the roll, then also your
extra 10cm allowance at the bottom. By applying
this second strip, you are totally focused on
matching the pattern, as well as finding the
edge of the first strip. Don't let your papers
overlap, as this will cause the pattern to fail
and your paper will appear to be "lifted" against
the wall. Position the edge of your papers so
they meet, then gently slide the paper up and
down until the pattern comes together. Once this
is complete, gently rub the paper down, away from
the edge corresponding to the fabric.
HOW TO MAKE CORNERS
The trick with corners is to first focus on the
wall in your hand, then focus on moving the
second part of the paper to the next wall. Gather
your border and design as before, then gently
rub your fabric over the paper in the corner.
Don't put too much pressure on the top and
bottom corners at first, as you don't want the
paper to wrinkle. Once you are satisfied that
your paper is flush with the previous strip and
meets the corner, gently lay the paper down on
the second wall. Using your scissors, make an
incision in the paper at the top where the
corners meet the ceiling. This will help you fold
the paper on the second wall. Make another cut
at the bottom of the strip where the paper meets
at the corner of the baseboard, then focus on
smoothing the paper over the wall from the corner
to the edge.
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Make sure the paper hasn't peeled off the
previous strip. If so, gently lift it, gather it,
then smooth it against the wall.
HOW TO DO DIFFICULT AREAS
The biggest pain when wallpapering is those pesky
switches and outlets. Hang the strip of
wallpaper as before, but don't smooth it too
much. Feel where your socket or switch rests
under the paper, then at the most central point
make a small hole with your scissors. Carefully
cut the paper, working from the center of the
socket out to the edges, until you can press it
against the wall and the socket or switch is
fully exposed. Using your cloth, gently smooth
the paper around the edges of the socket/switch,
then make the final cuts with your cutting
knife. Smooth the rest of the strip towards the
switch/outlet.
HOW TO FIX COMMON MISTAKES Ok, you will make
mistakes, but don't panic. These errors can often
be easily corrected. Even if you think they look
bad at the moment, chances are no one will notice
them (and neither will you after a day or
two). The most annoying and common mistake I
make is accidentally cutting too much paper when
cutting off the excess. Don't worry, just go back
to the strip you cut, re-glue it, then cut
again. Try to respect the cutting line as much as
possible and avoid overlaps. Put some paste on
your finger and rub it on the joint. It will be
much less noticeable once the paste dries,
honestly! Air bubbles are actually avoided by
smoothing the paper with the cloth. If the paper
has a lot of bubbles, gently peel it off the
wall without removing it completely, then smooth
the bubbles towards the edge of the paper.
Interior designers in gurgaon you may think your
paper looks sparkling even though you smoothed
it out as best you could. It will most likely dry
well since pulp or paper is designed to stretch
when dry. Chipped edges are a sign that there is
not enough paste on the edges of the paper. Put
some paste on the tip of your finger, gently lift
the edge, then run your finger up and down the
edge of the paper. Smooth the paper again with
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