New Applications of Dyes in the Textile Industry

1
New Applications of Dyes in the Textile Industry

Arvind Patel
International Conference on Indian Dyestuffs
Industry Hotel Hyatt Regency, Mumbai September
21-22, 2006
2
Structure of Presentation

• Overview Global Scenario (Application of dyes)
• Segmentwise application Conventional dyes
• Changing scenario of Textile Industry
• Latest application techniques/New generation dyes
• Features of few latest application techniques
• Key points Dyehouse management
• 
  

3
Textile Dye Classes World Market Size

• 
  

Indigo, Azoic, Sulphur, etc.
4
Global Textile Scenario Consumption
pattern

• 
  

5
Indian Textile Industry
The Growth Aspirations

Domestic 45 bn
Indian Tex. Mkt 2010 85 bn
Exports 40 bn

Domestic 25 bn
Indian Tex. Mkt 2004 38 bn
Exports 13 bn
Source Asian Text. J., Aug06
6
Segmentwise Application Conventional dyes


7
Segmentwise application of Reactive dyes


8
Conventional Printing methods


Source I.Holme, Supplement to Colourage, 2006,
LIII(4), 103
9
Textile Printing

• Characteristics of textile printing dyes
  (Reactive)
• High solubility
• Low substantivity
• High diffusion
• High print paste stability
• Suitable for short fixation method
• Compatibility
• Conventional Printing processes
• Direct Style
• Discharge Style
• Resist Style
• Transfer Printing
• Reactive Segment MCT dyes Direct printing VS
  dyes Discharge printing
• Pigment printing is much popular than reactive
  printing
• Research and Development
• Liquid brand dyes for Direct printing Ink Jet
  printing
• Improvement of solubility of MCT based printing
  dyes

10
Textile Industry
Changing Scenario

• Stringent Quality requirements led by export
  market
• Higher pressure on Price Trend towards high
  economy
• Conservation of Energy / Utility Cost
• Shift of manufacturing from Europe to Asia
• Growing commoditization of Products
• Modernisation, Automation Re-structuring
  activities
• Growing importance of Brands and Retailers
• Fast changing consumer tastes
• Newer fibres and blends
• Better RFT and Reproducibility
• Shade accuracy and quick delivery
• Increase in the technical support requirements by
  the user industry

11
Drivers Global Textile Supply Chain

• Less Dyestuff
• Less Chemical
• Less Water
• Less Energy
• Reduced Stock Costs

                       
 
Reduced Costs
 
Higher Productivity

• Shorter cycles
• RFT Performance
• Robustness

 
 

• Shade Reproducibility
• Colour Fastness
• Eco-compliance

Product Integrity
 
 
12
Critical Fastness Requirements

• Repeated laundering fastness in presence of novel
  washing powders containing Bleach activators like
  TAED / SNOBS
• Fastness to Oxidative Bleach Damage (MS C10A)
• Light fastness (especially in pale depths)
• Wet Light fastness (in association with residual
  detergent residues)
• Perspiration / Light fastness
• Chlorine fastness
• Dry Cleaning fastness
• Mercerisation fastness
• Weathering fastness

13
Latest Applications / Concepts

• E-Control System
• Digital Ink Jet Printing
• RFT Approach
• Dyeing in Ultra Low Liquor ratio
• Dyeing of Vat dyes in Soft-flow machine
• Dyeing of Newer fibres Blends (Lycra, Lyocell,
  modal, bamboo, soyabean, etc)
• Rapid dyeing Disperse dyes
• CPB dyeing of Knitted fabrics
• Application of Sulphur dyes Environmental
  friendly dyeing
• One Bath Continuous dyeing of Polyester /
  Cellulose blends (without R.C.)
• Pad OX Process
• Reactive dyeing Perceptible shift from Hot
  dyeing to Warm dyeing process
• Replacement of Vat dyes with Reactive dyes -
  achievement of Light and Wash fastness
  properties.

14
New generation Dyes in the Textile
Industry

• High Strength Reactive dyes Economical for
  Medium / Dark shades
• High Fixation Polyfunctional Reactive dyes
• Non Photochromic Reactive dyes
• Reactive dyes with improved Light fastness for
  pale depths (especially Red)
• Reactive dyes Stable under repeated laundering
  with bleach activator containing detergents
• Application of Reactive dyes at Neutral pH
• Low Salt Reactive dyes
• Fluorescent Reactive dyes for fashion
  sportswear
• Liquid Reactive dyes for Printing
• Reactive Blue, which can withstand Chlorinated
  pool water fastness

15
New generation Dyes in the Textile
Industry

• Liquid Vat dyes for Pad-Dry-Cure application
• Modified Pre-reduced Liquid Vat dyes
• High Wash fast Disperse dyes
• Alkali stable Disperse dyes
• Disperse dyes for dyeing of Microfibre
• Dyes for Ink Jet Printing
• Liquid disperse dyes for Printing

16
Stability of Reactive dyes

• Under Alkaline conditions
• Fluorotriazine gt Chlorotriazine gt
  Difluorochloropyrimidine gt Dichlorotriazine gt
  Dichloroquinoxaline gt Vinyl Sulphone
• Under Acidic conditions
• Vinyl Sulphone gt Difluorochloropyrimidine gt
  Chlorotriazine gt Fluorotriazine gt
  Dichloroquinoxaline gt Dichlorotriazine
• To liquor containing perborate
• Fluorotriazine gt Chlorotriazine gt Vinyl Sulphone
  gt Dichlorotriazine gt Dichloroquinoxaline gt
  Difluorochloropyrimidine

17
E-Control

• Process
• One Step, Simple Economical Continuous process
• No unproductive batching sequence
• Ideal for short lot dyeing
• Effective Wash-off
• A wide variety of fabric can be dyed
• Rapid shade matching in laboratory
• Energy efficient
• Performance
• High Productivity due to short process
• Environment friendly as no salt, urea silicate
  are used
• Soft handle of fabric due to mild fixation
  conditions
• Migration is minimised by rapid fixation
  humidity control
• No crushing of pile fabrics.
• Improved penetration of different fabrics -
  Presence of Humidity at high temp.
• Very good Lab- to -Bulk Bulk- to-Bulk
  reproducibility.

18
Ink Jet Printing

• Why Ink-jet?
• Simple technology and high quality
• Existing colorants can be used Reactive /
  Disperse / Acid / Pigment
• Constantly improving technology Robustness,
  Speed (gt100 m2/hr.), Quality (1440 dpi)
• Printing of innovative unique designs
• No screens / Unlimited colours in a design
• Outstanding colour gamut
• Different types of Substrates
• Trend is towards digital photography (Home /
  Photolabs
• Lower start-up costs shorter production times
• Shorter time from design to print
• Supply chain advantages
• More design options
• Reactive dyes in ink-jet printing
• Purified MCTs
• Inks specially designed for existing ink jet head
  technology
• Covalent bond gives excellent wash fastness

19
Ink Jet Printing

• Requirement is maximum fastness through
  non-covalent interactions
• Fastness requirements
• Water fastness
• Humidity fastness
• Highlighter smear
• Light fastness
• Achieving enhanced fastness
• Increase size of dye Water fastness increases
  with size
• pH switch Differential solubility between ink
  and water
• Hydrophobic effect
• Use of additives for greater longevity of prints
• Current and future developments
• Photographic media
• Need for increasing light fastness
• - New chromophores
• - Improve performance of existing chromophores
• Approaches Sacrificial groups / Physical
  quenchers / Physical protection

20
RFT Approach
Important Factors

• Raw material
• Substrate
• Dyestuffs
• Chemicals
• Water
• Preparation of Substrate
• Process Conditions
• Machine parameters
• Liquor ratio
• Time / Temperature profile
• Dyebath pH
• Concentrations of Chemicals
• Dye / Chemical addition profile
• Wash-Off profile

21
RFT Approach
THE BENEFITS OF
Right First Time Technology

• FINANCIAL
• Lower Costs per Batch
• Increased Output
• Improved Profit margin

• NON FINANCIAL
• Better Customer Service
• Improved Quality
• Reduced Effluent load

22
RFT Approach
NON RFT Impact on Process Costs
23
RFT Approach
NON RFT Impact on Productivity
24
VAT dyes on Knits (Softflow Machine)
Popular Myths

• Severe Unlevelness
• Oxidation Marks / Streak Marks
• Patchy Dyeing
• Layer to Layer variation
• Centre to Selvedge variation
• Lack of Solidity in shade

25
Vat dyes on Knits (Softflow Machine)

• Closed / Airtight Machines Preferably HTHP
  Machines
• Overflow Rinsing facility over normal liquor
  level
• Adjustment of rope length
• Proper Cycle time (90-120 seconds)
• Low Strike rate / Method 2 dyes are preferred
• Dyes with Low Reduction Potential are preferred
• Better results with higher MLR
• Each Cubic Metre free air requires
• 1.7 Lts. (38oBe) Caustic Soda 1.7 kgs. Hydros
• To check the presence of sufficient amount of
  Hydros frequently
• Ensure Perfect dosing profiles
• More amount of Lubricating agent

Tips to achieve SUCCESS

26
High Strength dyes
Special Features associated Benefits

Outstanding Tinctorial Strength
Extra deep shades at lower conc.
Lesser Water consumtion Lesser Colour in effluent

High Degree of Fixation
Meets modern Customers Requirements
Excellent Fastness Properties
Robust system / Good compatibility
Achievement of RFT Results
Easy Wash-Off
Outstanding Wet Fastness
27
Strategies adopted by Colorant
Manufacturers

• Growth in market share
• - Work towards profitable growth Quality
  business with a good return
• - Strategic alliances in specific activities
• Customer focus and innovation
• - Apply dye technology development to improve
  overall dyeing efficiencies
• - Offer high quality technical service
• - Innovative business with a continual flow of
  new products and application processes
• - Develop synergic improvements with auxiliaries
  and process chemicals (package approach)
• Cost and Quality
• - Control production and distribution costs
  manage the supply chain to reduce inventories
• - Achieve rapid, on-time delivery
• Global presence
• - Improve and expand the marketing and technical
  service network in growing markets
• Environment
• - Have products and processes designed to lower
  the environmental impact

28
Dyehouse Management
Key Factors

• Cost Reduction
• RFT Approach
• Technology Upgradation
• Improved quality
• Reduced cycle times
• Reduced lead time for delivery
• Perfect Repeatability
• Reliable results satisfying critical fastness
  requirements
• Maximum machine flexibility
• International competitiveness
• Much reduced environmental impact

29

Any Questions?
30

Thank You Very Much