By: Carl Orr

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Formulating with Microspheres
By Carl Orr
Technical Seminar April 14, 2008
www.koboproducts.com
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Microspheres
Microspheres are white powders that under a
microscope show every particle to be spherical.
In cosmetics, Microspheres are used for
Enhanced feel Optical blurring Absorption /
Delivery of materials
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Enhance Feel
Microspheres can alter the tactile qualities of a
cosmetic They can produce special tactile
effects like cream-to-powder
Initial Contact Application After Feel
Cosmetic Skin
Without Microspheres
With Microspheres
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Characteristics Influencing Feel (1)
Morphology
Texture
Round
Spheroid
Smooth
Textured
Perfectly round smooth Microspheres will have
better feel
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Characteristics Influencing Feel (2)
Particle size
Submicronic 3µm 10µm 20µm 50µm gt100µm
Too small Lose spherical feel
Too large Can feel individual particles
Best feel
Creamier
Ball-bearing
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Characteristics Influencing Feel (3)
Particle size distribution
Best feel
Small particles cannot be felt
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Characteristics Influencing Feel (4)
Chemical composition
(hardness, melting point, tensile strength, etc )
Polymethyl methacrylate soft Polyethylene soft Eth
ylene / acrylate copolymer soft Nylon-12 creamy Po
lyurethane smooth / wet Silicone
resin slippery Silica hard / dry
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Optical Blurring
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How Materials Affect Light
Diffuse specular reflection
Regular specular reflection
Dispersion
Internal reflection
Transmission
Absorbtion
Refraction
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Characteristics Influencing Optical Blurring (1)
Refractive index
The refractive indices of vehicles used in
cosmetics range from 1.33 (water) to 1.48
(Finsolve) The refractive indices of Microspheres
range from 1.41 (Tospearl) to 1.53 (Nylon) A
Microsphere will be transparent when its
refractive index is identical to the refractive
index of the medium it is in. This can be used to
advantage when tactile properties are desired
without diminishing gloss.
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Characteristics Influencing Optical Blurring (2)
Wide particle size distribution Ideal
coverage Narrow particle size distribution
Less coverage Very small particle (narrow or wide
particle size distribution) Good coverage but
more opacity (less natural) No tactile effect.
Particle size distribution
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Microspheres
Need absorption delivery ? ... Microspheres !
Microspheres and Silica Shells can be used to
absorb and deliver materials. It is important to
understand the chemical and physical attributes
to determine which material is most suitable for
a particular application.
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Characteristics Influencing Absorption (1)
Chemical composition Treatments
Most polymeric materials are hydrophobic with the
exception of PMMA, EA-209 and BPD-500. Typically,
they absorb about 1/2 their own weight. Silicas
are primarily hydrophilic but can absorb oils or
other liquids. Liquid absorption ranges from 1/3
to 7 times their own weight.
Microspheres can be treated to alter their
affinity for liquids MSS-500/5H-SH (methicone)
MSS-500-NS5 (aminosilicone)
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Characteristics Influencing Absorption (2)
Physical structure of individual spheres
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Microspheres
How To Pick The Right Microsphere

• Size can greatly influence the powdery feel.
  Larger gives a
• more powdery feel.
• Type of sphere can give a more dry or
  creamy feel.
• Absorption of the sphere can determine how
  much you can
• add this effects the feel and application.

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Microspheres
Crème to powder formulas can contain as much as
25 fillers or microspheres. Microspheres are
probably the most important component in crème
to powder formulas. Microspheres can make the
product feel powdery more quickly, give more
playtime and give unique dry down feels.
Microspheres can give the ball bearing effect,
give soft focus effect and move natural
appearance. Absorbent microspheres can give
you a different feel with more application and
help reduce sweating.
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Microspheres
Base Formula To Show Microspheres
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Cream To Powder Microspheres

• MICROSPHERE COMPLEX
• SPCAT-I2, SPCM-I2, DSPCS/H-I-2, DSPCS/20N-I2

Large Size 20 30 micron High absorbance
but a little goes a long way, small amounts
give a powdery feel quickly and they help with
structure and payoff.
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Cream to Powder Microspheres