Formulating with

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Formulating with Surface-Treated Pearls By
Carl Orr
Agent Seminar April 14, 2008
www.koboproductsinc.com
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Outline
1. Mica-based Pearls 2. Surface treatments (ITT,
Silane, Crosspolymer, Perfluoroalkyl phosphate,
Polyether Alkoxysilane) 3. Advantages of
Treated-Pearls in Powders 4. Advantages of
Treated-Pearls in Lipsticks 5. Advantages of
Treated-Pearls in Nail Enamels
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Mica-based Pearl
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Coating mica with metal oxides

• Metal oxides are coated on to mica to produce
  color by constructive interference.
• The most common coatings are
• Titanium Dioxide
• Iron Oxide
• A combination of the above

Reflection (Interference) Color
Complementary Color
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Color effect
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Surface Treatments
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Organo Titanate (ITT)
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Properties

• Lipophilic and easy to disperse allow high
  pigment loading
• Have excellent affinity to the skin
• Suitable for Cream-to-Powder formula and pressed
  powder
• Not stable to acid

US Pat 4,877,604, ML Schlossman
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Triethoxycaprylylsilane (11S)
Properties

• Excellent hydrophobicity stable at pH 3
• Zero Hydrogen potential, no Si-H bonds
• More compatible with esters and oils

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Crosspolymer ITT Dimethicone (TTB)
Branched Dimethicone
ITT
R branched dimethicone
US Pat 60,472,527
Properties

• Hydrophobic and lipophilic
• Render pigments and powders superdispersible
• Compatible with esters/ hydrocarbons and with
  silicones (multimedia)
• Stable over a wide range of pHs
• Improve skin affinity

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Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate
hydrophilic pigment surface - H2O
Daito JP5-86984 JP4-330007
Properties

• Hydrophobic and lipophobic
• Long lasting wear
• Silky feel
• Natural finish
• Protect from physical and chemical attacks

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Polyether Alkoxysilane

Properties

• PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane
• Hydrophilic treatment
• Improves the dispersibility of treated pigments
  in water

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Advantages of Treated Pearls in Powders
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Advantages of Treated Pearls in Powders

• Improves pressing
• Allows higher level of pearl to press
• Allows larger particle size to be pressed
• Better binder dispersion
• Gives better feel
• Better deposit on skin
• Better adhesion wear

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Powder Formula 1
Frosted, 45 KTZ Pearls
Untreated pearl treated talc
Ingredients Treated Non-treated Talc
N/MM3 14.38 - 14.38 Talc Micro ACE
P-2 - 14.38 - Zinc Myristate 20 20 20 Sunjin
PMMA-S 5 5 5 Binder 5 12 12 12 E7015
Red-11S2 3.1 3.1 3.1 E7053 Black 0.52 0.52 0.52 K
TZ Bronze-11S2 45 - - KTZ Bronze - 45 45
Binder 5 Propylene Glycol Dicapryl/Dicapylate 33
.3 SS4267 10.0 SF96-350 23.3 SF96-20 33.3
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Powder Formula 2
Frosted, 45 KTZ Pearls
Ingredients Treated Untreated Talc
N/MM3 19.18 - Talc Micro ACE P-2 - 19.18 Zinc
Stearate 18 18 SP500 5 5 Binder 4 9 9 E7015
Red-11S2 3.1 3.1 E7053 Black 0.52 0.52 KTZ
Copper-I2 45 - KTZ Copper - 45 Methyl Paraben
.1 .1 Propyl Paraben .1 .1
KEY-012A
KEY-012B
KEY-012C
Untreated Pearl Treated Talc
19.18 - 18 5 9 3.1 0.52 - 45 .1 .1
Binder 4 Lexol PG-865 92.5 Koboguard 5400
CCT 7.5
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Advantages of Treated Pearls in Powders
After Three Drops
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Improved Pressing with Treatments

• Less entrapped air bulk density is higher
• Friction dramatically reduced / amount of
  treatment

Less air than without treatment
Friction reduced pearls slip to lay flat

• Surface treatment acts like glue with
  compatible binder

Surface treatment Binder (spreads easily with
compatible treatments)
Pearl pigment (Mica TiO2 Fe2O3)
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Advantages of Treated Pearls in Lipsticks
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Advantages of Treated Pearls in Lipsticks

• Better dispersion
• Improvement in flow lines when formulated with
  compatible materials
• Improved feel and spreading
• Improved gloss
• Improved loading

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Viscosity of Treated Pearls
Dispersed in Mineral Oil
untreated
TTB
ITT
Silane
Dispersed in Dimethicone
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Untreated Pearls - Lipsticks
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TTB-treated Pearls - Lipsticks
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Lipstick Formula
Ingredients Treated Untreated Polyethylene
400PL 5.25 5.25 Performacol 11.0 11.0 Cetyl
Lactate 6.0 6.0 Marix SF 5.0 5.0 Hexadecanol 41.9
41.9 Peforma V825 8.0 8.0 Nexbase
2006 8.0 8.0 Triglycerin 4.85 4.85 SW30R7C 1.5 1.
5 SW60ER 0.5 0.5 KTZ Classic White-TTB2 8.0 - KT
Z Classic White - 8.0
DC Red7 dispersed in Synthetic Wax Iron
Oxide Red dispersed in Synthetic Wax
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Advantages of Treated Pearls in Nail Enamels
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Appearance
Untreated Pearl
Treated Pearl
Smooth and glossy
Uneven and low color strength

• Appearance of pearls is related to the placement
  of each platelet.
• The surface of treated pearl platelets is
  hydrophobic and has less interaction for
  aggregation. Platelets are easy to spread
• Untreated pearls have a hydrophilic surface. It
  is polar and has more inter-plate interactions.

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Appearance
KTZ Interference Red Drawdown (5 in Clear Nail
Lacquer)
Untreated
TTB-Treated
Untreated
TTB-Treated
Normal angle
Specular angle
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Appearance
KTZ Gold Drawdown (5 in Clear Nail Lacquer)
Untreated
TTB-Treated
Untreated
TTB-Treated
Normal angle
Specular angle
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Appearance
KTZ Bronze Drawdown (5 in Clear Nail Lacquer)
Untreated
TTB-Treated
Untreated
TTB-Treated
Normal angle
Specular angle
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Gloss
Test conditions A) 5 wt nail polish suspension
base B) Mix for 10 min. C) Read the gloss of
drawdown _at_ 60 degree