cosmeceutical products | food research lab

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Microencapsulation for cosmeceutical products
New Technologies Report - Date9th June , 2023??
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INTRODUCTION

• The pharmaceutical, food, cosmetic, textile,
  personal care, agricultural, chemical,
  biotechnology, biomedical, and sensor sectors
  have researched microencapsulation extensively.
  Growing research in this field can be attributed
  to the fact that microencapsulation can be used
  to formulate value-added products.
• The global cosmetics and personal care products
  business is valued at several billion dollars and
  has grown significantly. With more and more uses
  in this industry, microencapsulation has been
  employed to create more reliable, efficient
  cosmetic formulations with superior sensory
  qualities. ?
• Sunscreens, perfumes, moisturising, tanning,
  whitening and anti-ageing agents are a few
  examples that have been studied for
  microencapsulation. Other areas studied for
  microencapsulation include formulation and
  stabilisation of topical medicines, recent and
  upcoming advancements, challenges, and future
  developments 1.?

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Cosmetic active ingredients encapsulated for
topical application

• Microencapsulation has been extensively studied
  in skincare and beauty products for their
  application. Vitamin A (VA), or retinol, is an
  antioxidant in skincare products.
• Examples include Vitamin A serum (retinol face
  serum), retinol face wash, retinol hand cream,
  retinol peel and retinol cream for pigmentation.
• It restores skin suppleness and reduces flaking,
  thereby reducing skin dryness and improving skin
  health.
• Jenning and others evaluated the potential
  applications of Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN)
  in cosmetics and dermatology by encapsulating VA
  in glyceryl behenate SLN via melt solidification
  2.

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Figure 1 Schematic diagram of microencapsulation
technique 1
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Microencapsulation in cosmetics

• The cosmetics and personal care industries rely
  heavily on delivery systems and microcapsules.
  They provide an ideal and one-of-a-kind carrier
  system for active ingredients, making it possible
  to release, isolate, and protect active
  ingredients, making the formulations more viable,
  masking undesirable aspects like the smell and
  enhancing the properties and appearance of the
  product.
• Microencapsulation can be used to formulate
  shower and shower gels, moisturisers and creams,
  hair care products, sunscreens and tanning
  creams, cosmetics, fragrances, cleansers and
  exfoliants 3.

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Figure 2 Schematic diagram of the encapsulation
process 3
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Encapsulating materials for cosmetic applications

• The core material encapsulated is the active
  ingredient to be used, and the material depends
  on the final cosmetic product where the capsules
  will be incorporated and the desired function. ?
• Other factors considered for choosing an
  encapsulation material are chemical and physical
  stability, mechanism of release of the active
  ingredient, concentration and particle size.?
• Toxicity, biocompatibility, stability, viscosity,
  and mechanical properties, compatibility between
  the active ingredient and the wall material, the
  release of the active ingredient into the skin
  from the vehicle, enhancement of active
  penetration into the stratum corneum, intended
  particle size and microscopic properties of the
  surface of the microparticles, as well as the
  processing and economic factors, should all be
  taken into consideration when selecting a wall
  material for use in topical applications. ?
• The right decision of the shell material is
  fundamental as it impacts the efficacy and
  protection of the microcapsules. ?

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Encapsulating materials for cosmetic applications

• Commonly used core materials in cosmetic products
  for topical application have been reviewed.
  Encapsulating materials can be chosen from
  biodegradable and non-biodegradable polymers.
  Extensive research has been conducted on
  protecting active agents in micro-sized carriers
  for controlled release over time. ?
• Natural and biodegradable biopolymers like
  chitosan are preferred as encapsulating
  materials. When in contact with human tissues,
  these natural materials are non-toxic,
  non-reactive, and can be broken down,
  metabolised, and eliminated. Other polymers
  studied include aliphatic polyesters like
  poly(lactic acid) (PLA), and copolymers of lactic
  and glycolic acids like PLGA (poly(lactic-co-glyco
  lic acid)) are the encapsulating materials that
  are more popular for use in skin delivery
  systems. ?
• However, the structure of chitosan can be altered
  to produce water-soluble chitosan, which is
  easily soluble in neutral aqueous solutions and
  expands the compounds application range4. ?

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Conclusion

• Consumers demand for improved efficacy and
  safety of the products has fuelled an interest in
  more complex and sophisticated products.?
• Microencapsulation of active ingredients has
  become increasingly popular in cosmetics and
  personal care products since the functionality of
  the active ingredients can be enhanced, and the
  product has added value. In addition,
  technological advancements have made
  microencapsulation more feasible.

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REFERENCES

• https//onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/i
  cs.12232?
• https//www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/
  S0268005X1932805X?
• https//www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.3109/026520
  48.2015.1115900?
• https//onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/i
  cs.12017?

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M1. 20