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Important Events Influenced Styles of the
Crinoline Period
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1850 1851 1852 1857
1858 1859 1860 1861 1862
1863 1865 1867 1869
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The style lines for womens dress at the
beginning of the crinoline period were like those
of the late Romantic Period.
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The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt
c. 1857 contributed to the continuing popularity
of very wide skirts.
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Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea.
They had been used in the 16th and 18th Centuries.
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Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for
humor.
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Before the adoption of the cage crinoline,
womens rights advocates had attempted to reform
womens dress proposing the bloomer dress. The
support provided by hoops helped to make womens
skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and
the bloomer costume faded away.
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Womens under drawers were made of cotton.
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Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise.
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Over the chemise, went a corset.
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Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover.
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Next, the hoop was added.
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And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In
winter, it might be made of flannel.
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Dresses were usually two piece, had a full
gathered or pleated skirt, and a dropped shoulder
line.

• Daytime dresses had high necks
• Evening dresses had low, often off-the-shoulder
  necklines

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To go outdoors any of several garments might be
worn.

• A shawl, perhaps one of the Kashmir shawls
  popular since the beginning of the century
• A short jacket
• A mantle

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Accessories of Note
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A mans undergarments included under drawers and,
in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt.
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Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or
cravat.
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And over that trousers, held up by suspenders.
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Next, a vest.
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Men could choose from several different jacket
types.

• Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear
• Frock coat for daytime
• Sack jacket for less formal occasions

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For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes,
overcoats.
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Accessories of Note
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Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts,
older children were dressed much as adults.
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With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris,
British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion
dressmaking that became know as the haute
couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal
women from all over the world.
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Military conflicts inspired some fashionable
styles.

• The Garibaldi Blouse from the red shirts worn by
  the soldiers fighting under General Giuseppe
  Garibaldi for the liberation of Italy
• Zouave jackets worn by Algerian soldiers and
  adopted by an American Civil War regiment.

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Though sports for women were limited, they did
have costumes specifically for bathing and riding
horseback.
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By the end of the decade of the 1860s, the
fashionable silhouette had changed. It featured
Skirt fullness moved more to the back.
Not a gathered, but a gored skirt
A higher waistline
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For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs
Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection
http//web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata
Shoe Museum http//www.batashoemuseum.ca/collecti
ndex.html Bath Museum http//www.museumofcostum
e.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture
Collection which has extensive collection of
images of garments and accessories.
http//www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New
York. Images from several exhibits.
www.mcny.org/collections Philadelphia Museum
www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art
Costume Institute www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/c
ollection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of
American History, Washington, DC http//americanhi
story2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell
University Costume Collection http//char.txa.corn
ell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University
Costume Gallery http//digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/hom
e.html 19th Century Shoes http//www.northampton
.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_
of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm
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For Further Study
Paisley Shawls http//dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit
/paisley/paisleyex2.html http//www.izaak.unh.edu
/museum/shawls/dp_index.htm Hoopskirts http//ww
w.greenlightwrite.com/hoopskirt.htm
http//www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/installati
ons/hoopskirts.shtml http//demode.tweedlebop.com
/crinoline.html Charles F. Worth,
Couturier http//www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd
_wrth.htm Books With Drawings Showing
Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J.
1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1 1660-1860.
Vol. 2 1860-1940. New York Drama Book
Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in
Detail. New York Costume and Fashion
Press. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's
Clothes, 1600-1900. New York Theater Arts
Books.
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Image Credits
Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York
Public Library of Digital Images. Various images,
courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005,
www.antique-lace.com . Image of Cage Crinoline,
c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke,
www.suziclarke.co.uk . Image of Harpers Front
Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward,
www.magazineart.org . Various images, courtesy
of Violet J. Willis, www.trousseau.net . Image
of Drawers, c. 1850-1860, courtesy of Donna
Neary, www.heritagestudio.com . Various
images, courtesy of Deborah Burke,
www.antiquedress.com . Image of Farthingale and
Panier, courtesy of www.farthingales.on.ca
. Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New
York Public Library Digital Image
Collection. Image of the Garibaldi Blouse,
courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital
Image Collection. Image of Swimwear, courtesy of
the New York Public Library Digital Image
Collection. Various images, courtesy of Karen
Augusta, www.antique-fashion.com , c.
2005. Various images in this chapter are courtesy
of Claire King www.clipart.com Photo Arts
Fairchild Publications, Inc.