Title: MAIN MENU
1- MAIN MENU
- Making a Switch Unit circuit
- Making a Dark Sensor circuit
- Making a Light Sensor circuit
- Making a Reversed Switch Unit circuit
- Adding a reset
- Making a pic circuit
- To GCSE units only
2- Building the Battery connector
- Testing the Battery connector
- Repairing the Battery connector
- Building the Switch Unit
- Testing the Switch Unit
- Repairing the Switch Unit
- Building the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Testing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Repairing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Building the 555 Monostable
- Testing the 555 Monostable
- Repairing the 555 Monostable
- Building the Transducer Driver
- Testing the Transducer Driver
- Repairing Transducer Driver
Top Menu
Switch Unit
3- Building the Battery connector
- Testing the Battery connector
- Repairing the Battery connector
- Building the Dark Sensor
- Testing the Dark Sensor
- Repairing the Dark Sensor
- Building the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Testing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Repairing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Building the 555 Monostable
- Testing the 555 Monostable
- Repairing the 555 Monostable
- Building the Transducer Driver
- Testing the Transducer Driver
- Repairing Transducer Driver
Top Menu
Dark Sensor
4- Building the Battery connector
- Testing the Battery connector
- Repairing the Battery connector
- Building the Light Sensor
- Testing the Light Sensor
- Repairing the Light Sensor
- Building the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Testing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Repairing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Building the 555 Monostable
- Testing the 555 Monostable
- Repairing the 555 Monostable
- Building the Transducer Driver
- Testing the Transducer Driver
- Repairing Transducer Driver
Top Menu
Light Sensor
5- Building the Battery connector
- Testing the Battery connector
- Repairing the Battery connector
- Building the Reversed Switch Unit
- Testing the Reversed Switch Unit
- Repairing the Reversed Switch Unit
- Building the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Testing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Repairing the Transistor Switch Indicator
- Building the 555 Monostable
- Testing the 555 Monostable
- Repairing the 555 Monostable
- Building the Transducer Driver
- Testing the Transducer Driver
- Repairing Transducer Driver
Top Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
6- Building the Battery connector
- Testing the Battery connector
- Repairing the Battery connector
- Building the Pic
- Testing the Pic
- Repairing the Pic
- Building OUTPUT 0 and OUTPUT 4
- Testing OUTPUT 0 and OUTPUT 4
- Repairing the entire circuit
Top Menu
Pic
7Building the Battery Connector
Menu
Switch Unit
- Insert the battery clip with the red wire at the
top.
- Cut off excess wire at the rear.
- Now Test the Battery Connector.
8Testing the Battery Connector
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
9Repairing Battery Connector power supply goes
red.
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here.
Switch Unit
10Building Switch Unit
Menu
Switch Unit
- Insert the 2 switch wires 1 metre of stranded
wire for each.
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Now Test the Switch Unit.
11Testing the Switch Unit
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together The power supply led should remain green
NOT TURN RED.
12Repairing switch unit power supply goes red
straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Switch Unit
13Repairing switch unit power supply goes red when
you connect the switch wires.
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Switch Unit
14Building Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
Switch Unit
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the 470W Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
- Insert the led with the flat to the bottom.
- Now solder the components
15Testing Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
- POLARITY
- The l.e.d. must have the flat at the bottom.
- The Darlington switch must have the flat face to
the right.
Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The l.e.d. should be OFF.
- Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together The power supply led should remain green
NOT TURN RED.
16Repairing Transistor Switch Indicator power
supply goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Switch Unit
17Building the 555 Monostable
Menu
Switch Unit
- Insert the two 270kW Resistors either way round.
- Insert the 10kW Resistor either way round.
- Insert the 10 mF Capacitor sign to the right.
- Insert the 500k W preset.
- Insert the main timing Capacitor - sign at the
bottom
- Insert the 8 pin chip socket
- Solder the components but you have not completed
this unit yet!
- Insert the 555 chip into the chip socket circle
to the top left
18Testing the 555 Monostable
Menu
Switch Unit
- POLARITY
- The 555 timer chip must have the circle at the
top left. - The timing capacitor needs to have the sign
(grey rectangle) at the bottom.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together The power supply led should remain green
NOT TURN RED.
19Repairing the 555 Monostable power supply goes
red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Switch Unit
20Building the Transducer Driver
Menu
Switch Unit
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
21Testing the Transducer Driver
Menu
Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
22Repairing the Transducer Driver power supply
goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Switch Unit
23Building the Buzzer
Menu
Switch Unit
- Insert and solder the buzzer with the plus sign
at the top of the circuit.
24Testing the entire circuit
Menu
Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The buzzer should be quiet.
- Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together, the transistor switch indicator led
should light and the buzzer should sound for the
correct time and then go silent.
25Repairing the entire circuit power supply
goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Switch Unit
26Building the Battery Connector
Menu
Dark Sensor
- Insert the battery clip with the red wire at the
top.
- Cut off excess wire at the rear.
- Now Test the Battery Connector.
27Testing the Battery Connector
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Dark Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
28Repairing Battery Connector power supply goes
red.
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here.
Dark Sensor
29Building Dark Sensor
Menu
Dark Sensor
- Insert the 10kW resistor either way round.
- Insert the miniature LDR. Either way round
- Now Test the Dark Sensor.
30Testing the Dark Sensor
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Dark Sensor
- THERE ARE NO POLARITY PROBLEMS.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
31Repairing dark sensor power supply goes red
straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Dark Sensor
32Building Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
Dark Sensor
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the 470W Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
- Insert the led with the flat to the bottom.
- Now solder the components
33Testing Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
- POLARITY
- The l.e.d. must have the flat at the bottom.
- The Darlington switch must have the flat face to
the right.
Dark Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The l.e.d. should be OFF.
- Trigger the INPUT and the l.e.d. should light
while the INPUT is ON.
34Repairing Transistor Switch Indicator power
supply goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Dark Sensor
35Building the 555 Monostable
Menu
Dark Sensor
- Insert the two 270kW Resistors either way round.
- Insert the 10kW Resistor either way round.
- Insert the 10 mF Capacitor sign to the right.
- Insert the 500k W preset.
- Insert the main timing Capacitor - sign at the
bottom
- Insert the 8 pin chip socket
- Solder the components but you have not completed
this unit yet!
- Insert the 555 chip into the chip socket circle
to the top left
36Testing the 555 Monostable
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Dark Sensor
- POLARITY
- The 555 timer chip must have the circle at the
top left. - The timing capacitor needs to have the sign
(grey rectangle) at the bottom.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - Cover the LDR and the power supply l.e.d. should
remain green NOT TURN RED.
37Repairing the 555 Monostable power supply goes
red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Dark Sensor
38Building the Transducer Driver
Menu
Dark Sensor
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
39Testing the Transducer Driver
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Dark Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
40Repairing the Transducer Driver power supply
goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Dark Sensor
41Building the Buzzer
Menu
Dark Sensor
- Insert and solder the buzzer with the plus sign
at the top of the circuit.
42Testing the entire circuit
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Dark Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The buzzer should be quiet.
- Place your hand over the LDR, the transistor
switch indicator led should light and the buzzer
should sound for the correct time and then go
silent.
43Repairing the entire circuit power supply goes
red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Dark Sensor
44Building the Battery Connector
Menu
Light Sensor
- Insert the battery clip with the red wire at the
top.
- Cut off excess wire at the rear.
- Now Test the Battery Connector.
45Testing the Battery Connector
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Light Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
46Repairing Battery Connector power supply goes
red.
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here.
Light Sensor
47Building Light Sensor
Menu
Light Sensor
- Insert the LDR either way round
- Insert the 2.2kW resistor either way round.
- Now Test the Light Sensor.
48Testing the Light Sensor
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Light Sensor
- THERE ARE NO POLARITY PROBLEMS.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
49Repairing dark sensor power supply goes red
straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Light Sensor
50Building Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
Light Sensor
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the 470W Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
- Insert the led with the flat to the bottom.
- Now solder the components
51Testing Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
- POLARITY
- The l.e.d. must have the flat at the bottom.
- The Darlington switch must have the flat face to
the right.
Light Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The l.e.d. should be OFF.
- Uncover the LDR and the l.e.d. should light.
52Repairing Transistor Switch Indicator power
supply goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Light Sensor
53Building the 555 Monostable
Menu
Light Sensor
- Insert the two 270kW Resistors either way round.
- Insert the 10kW Resistor either way round.
- Insert the 10 mF Capacitor sign to the right.
- Insert the 500k W preset.
- Insert the main timing Capacitor - sign at the
bottom
- Insert the 8 pin chip socket
- Solder the components but you have not completed
this unit yet!
- Insert the 555 chip into the chip socket circle
to the top left
54Testing the 555 Monostable
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Light Sensor
- POLARITY
- The 555 timer chip must have the circle at the
top left. - The timing capacitor needs to have the sign
(grey rectangle) at the bottom.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - Cover the LDR and the power supply l.e.d. should
remain green NOT TURN RED.
55Repairing the 555 Monostable power supply goes
red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Light Sensor
56Building the Transducer Driver
Menu
Light Sensor
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
57Testing the Transducer Driver
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Light Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
58Repairing the Transducer Driver power supply
goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Light Sensor
59Building the Buzzer
Menu
Light Sensor
- Insert and solder the buzzer with the plus sign
at the top of the circuit.
60Testing the entire circuit
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Light Sensor
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The buzzer should be quiet.
- Place your hand over the LDR, the transistor
switch indicator led should light and the buzzer
should sound for the correct time and then go
silent.
61Repairing the entire circuit power supply goes
red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Light Sensor
62Building the Battery Connector
Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
- Insert the battery clip with the red wire at the
top.
- Cut off excess wire at the rear.
- Now Test the Battery Connector.
63Testing the Battery Connector
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Reversed Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
64Repairing Battery Connector power supply goes
red.
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here.
Reversed Switch Unit
65Building Reversed Switch Unit
Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
- Insert the 2 switch wires 1 metre of stranded
wire for each.
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Now Test the Switch Unit.
66Testing the Reversed Switch Unit
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Reversed Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together The power supply led should remain green
NOT TURN RED.
67Repairing reversed switch unit power supply goes
red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Reversed Switch Unit
68Repairing reversed switch unit power supply goes
red when you connect the switch wires.
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Reversed Switch Unit
69Building Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the 470W Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
- Insert the led with the flat to the bottom.
- Now solder the components
70Testing Transistor Switch Indicator
Menu
- POLARITY
- The l.e.d. must have the flat at the bottom.
- The Darlington switch must have the flat face to
the right.
Reversed Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The l.e.d. should be OFF.
- Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together The power supply led should remain green
NOT TURN RED.
71Repairing Transistor Switch Indicator power
supply goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Reversed Switch Unit
72Building the 555 Monostable
Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
- Insert the two 270kW Resistors either way round.
- Insert the 10kW Resistor either way round.
- Insert the 10 mF Capacitor sign to the right.
- Insert the 500k W preset.
- Insert the main timing Capacitor - sign at the
bottom
- Insert the 8 pin chip socket
- Solder the components but you have not completed
this unit yet!
- Insert the 555 chip into the chip socket circle
to the top left
73Testing the 555 Monostable
Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
- POLARITY
- The 555 timer chip must have the circle at the
top left. - The timing capacitor needs to have the sign
(grey rectangle) at the bottom.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together The power supply led should remain green
NOT TURN RED.
74Repairing the 555 Monostable power supply goes
red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Reversed Switch Unit
75Building the Transducer Driver
Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
- Insert the 33kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the MPSA 13 Darlington Driver flat face to
the right.
76Testing the Transducer Driver
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Reversed Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
77Repairing the Transducer Driver power supply
goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges here, but
you should check the rest of the solder joints.
Reversed Switch Unit
78Building the Buzzer
Menu
Reversed Switch Unit
- Insert and solder the buzzer with the plus sign
at the top of the circuit.
79Testing the entire circuit
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
Reversed Switch Unit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The buzzer should be quiet.
- Touch the bare ends of the 2 switch wires
together, the transistor switch indicator led
should light and the buzzer should sound for the
correct time and then go silent.
80Repairing the entire circuit power supply
goes red straight away
Menu
- Check that the solder does not run over the
channels (this is called a solder bridge). - I think that you have solder bridges in at least
one of the red joints and one of the dark grey
joints, but you should check the rest of the
solder joints.
Reversed Switch Unit
81Building Battery Connector
Menu
PIC circuit
- Insert the battery clip with the red wire at the
top.
- Cut off excess wire at the rear.
- Now Test the Battery Connector.
82Testing Battery Connector
Menu
Connect the circuit to the power supply. Red
croc-clip to larger terminal, Black croc-clip to
round terminal.
PIC circuit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
83Building PIC
Menu
PIC circuit
- Insert the three 1kW resistors (either way round)
into the 6 holes shown.
- Insert the 22kW resistor (either way round) to
the 2 holes shown.
- Insert the 10kW resistor (either way round) to
the 2 holes shown.
- Insert and solder the stereo jack socket to the 5
holes shown.
- Insert and solder the 8 pin socket to the 8 holes
shown.
- Now SOLDER the components, but you are not
finished yet.
- Insert the pic-axe chip into the socket with the
circle at the top right.
84Building OUTPUT 0 and OUTPUT 4
Menu
PIC circuit
- Insert the 330W resistor (either way round) to
the 2 holes shown.
- Insert the red led with the flat at the bottom to
the 2 holes shown.
- Insert the 33kW resistor (either way round) to
the 2 holes shown.
- Insert the MPSA Darlington driver to the 3 holes
shown with the flat to the right.
- Insert the buzzer to the 2 holes shown with the
red wire at the top.
- Now SOLDER the components in place.
- NOW TEST OUTPUT 0 (the led) AND OUTPUT 4 (the
transducer driver and buzzer)
85Testing OUTPUT 0 and OUTPUT 4
Menu
PIC circuit
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - If the power supply test is o.k. then you have to
write and download a programme which will flash
the led and make the buzzer sound one after the
other.
86GCSE circuits only
Return to main menu
- Latch with Reset
- BUILDING TESTING
- Latch
- BUILDING TESTING
- Pic_Axe-08
- Making a pic circuit
- Pic-Axe 18
- BUILDING
- Sound Sensing Unit
- BUILDING TESTING
- People Sensor
BUILDING TESTING -
- Comparator
- BUILDING TESTING
- OR Gate
- BUILDING TESTING
87Building Sound Sensing Unit this unit needs a
Comparator
Menu
- Insert the 18kW Resistor either way round
- Insert the 2 wires for the electret microphone as
shown in the diagram.
- Now Test the Sound Sensing Unit.
88Testing Sound Sensor
Menu
- POLARITY the electret microphone must be
connected as shown - The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
89Building People Sensing Unit this unit needs a
comparator
Menu
- Insert the 2 Miniature LDRs either way round
- Now Test the People Sensing Unit.
90Testing People Sensing Unit
Menu
- THERE ARE NO POLARITY PROBLEMS.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
91Building Comparator
Menu
- Drill the 3 holes a larger size.
- Insert the 470W resistor either way round.
- Insert the led with the flat to the bottom.
- Insert the 14 pin chip socket.
- Insert the LM324 chip with the cutout at the top.
92Testing Comparator
Menu
- POLARITY
- The LM324 must have the cut out at the top
- The l.e.d. must have the flat at the bottom.
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - The l.e.d. should be OFF.
- Make a noise (SOUND SENSOR) or cover the bottom
LDR (PEOPLE SENSOR) and the l.e.d. should flicker
ON.
93Building OR Gate
Menu
- Insert the 14 pin chip socket.
- Connect the top input of the OR Gate to the first
INPUT. Solder in a short length of solid core
wire.
- Insert the 4001 chip with the cutout at the top.
94Testing OR Gate
Menu
- POLARITY The 4001 must have the cut out at the
top - MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE CONNECTED THE FIRST INPUT
TO THE TOP TERMINAL WITH A WIRE - The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED.
95Building Latch with reset
Menu
- Insert the 33kW resistor either way round.
- Insert the 2 lengths of stranded wire (blue or
yellow) for the reset.
- Insert the 14 pin chip socket.
- Insert the 4001 chip with the cutout at the top.
96Testing Latch with Reset
Menu
- POLARITY The 4001 must have the cutout at the top
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - Touch the bare ends of the 2 reset switch wires
together The power supply led should remain green
NOT TURN RED. - After you have built an output you can test the
Latch as follows - Trigger the SET INPUT, the OUTPUT should switch
ON and stay ON. - Touch the RESET wires together, the OUTPUT should
switch OFF and stay OFF until it is SET again.
97Building Latch
Menu
- Insert the 14 pin chip socket.
- Insert the 4001 chip with the cutout at the top.
98Testing Latch
Menu
- POLARITY The 4001 must have the cutout at the top
- The power supply led should remain green NOT TURN
RED. - After you have built an output you can test the
Latch as follows - Trigger the SET INPUT, the OUTPUT should switch
ON and stay ON. - Trigger the RESET INPUT, the OUTPUT should switch
OFF and stay OFF until it is SET again.
99Pic-Axe 18 building the pic
Menu
- Insert and solder the 4.7kW resistor.
- Insert and solder the 22kW resistor.
- Insert and solder the 10kW resistor.
- Insert and solder the wire link.
- Insert and solder the stereo jack socket.
- Insert and solder the 5 10KW resistors.
- Insert and solder the 18 pin chip socket.
- Insert and solder the 0.1 mF Capacitor.
- Insert and solder the 2 reset wires.
- Plug In the picaxe 18 chip with the cut-out to
the left hand side.