WOMENS RETAIL ANALYSIS WINTER 2006

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WOMENS RETAIL ANALYSISWINTER 2006
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WOMENS RETAIL ANALYSISWINTER 2006
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Gilt Trip
Londons department stores have been sprinkled
with gold fairy dust. Festive windows as
Selfridges feature golden mesh animals in a
fairytale setting. Harrods Christmas frontage
displays stacks of gold casino chips the size of
dinner plates, to go with their Casino Royale
Bond movie theme. Gold is also the colour of
choice for December issues of fashion magazines
which max out on shimmering gold evening shoes
and glittery eveningwear.
Key Directions

• Gold hard-shell tiny bags
• Golden pumps and sandals
• Gold snakeskin

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Sequins and Glitter
Spangled pumps and boots are a favourite for the
festive season. Red is the top colour followed by
blue, purple, gold or pewter. Choose from
sequins, glitter fabrics or under glass sparkly
patents. Sequins must be packed over the entire
surface. Single strips do not look new enough.
KEY DIRECTIONS

• Densely packed sequins
• Under glass sparkly metallics
• Glitter fabrics

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24 Hour Ice
Glamorous sandals are iced with diamonds for
both winter evening styles and spring cruise
lines. Art Deco is a big influence, fpr example
Calvin Kleins skinny strip wedges, jimmy choos
rhinestone buckles or DKNYs diamante watch.
Alternatively there are chunky glass stones, such
as on Marc Jacobs slingbacks or Burberrys tunic.
KEY DIRECTIONS

• Diamante for winter or spring
• Art Deco themes
• Chunky glass stones

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Party Heels
Many evening shoes place emphasis on the ankle.
High fine ankle straps on sandals or pumps are a
look that is also seen on next springs catwalks.
Manolo Blahniks opened up boots with
corset-laced sides draw attention to the ankle.
Or there are Guccis high heeled sandals, with
glossy rope ankle ties. Pearls are a fresh
alternative to diamante and lace continues to
look good.
KEY DIRECTIONS

• Fine ankle straps
• Ankle ties
• Pearls and lace

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Cropped Boots
Ankle boots are continuing to be a growth area.
The short lengths team well with the incoming
eighties trends and mini skirts. Some are cropped
to the anklebone, such as Muxarts shoe boot,
which has large flat studs along the seams.
Nostalgic granny boots are still strong look.
KEY DIRECTIONS

• The shoe boot
• 80s ankle boot
• Granny boots

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Tough Boots
Tough boots are taking off at retail. At the
start of the season there were less around, but a
couple of months on, they are more prominent. In
Barcelona authentic Dr Martens and kickers boots
are popular. Longer length styles in washed or
waxy leathers are a less masculine way of
achieving the right look
Key Directions

• Dr Martens and look-alikes
• Classic Kickers (especially in Spain)
• Long leg tough boots

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Winter Wonderland
Ski and après skiwear is becoming very
sophisticated. Stella McCartney has just launched
a winter sportwear line for Adidas. Her signature
soft palette and body conscious silhouettes are
in response to the badly fitting masculine
skiwear she found at retail, when she was looking
to kit herself out for a skiing holiday. The line
includes insulated quilted boots, which have a
cosy sock-type inner layer. Quilting is also the
theme for Pumas sporty nylon puffa boots. For
the truly chic, Dolce and Gabbanas jeweled moon
boots and python skis are derigeur. Fleece,
knitted cuffs and ponyskin are more down-to-earth
materials for après-snow footwear.
Key Directions

• Quilted puff a boots
• Soft coloured, shapely skiwear
• Knitted cuffs

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Clean Cut
Pared away lines are the story for simple leather
footwear and bags. Heels on pumps are sculptured
or concealed. Sandals and mules are detailed with
minimalistic silver branding. Flats feature
angular or broad straps. Bags follow suit with
oversized interweaves which form simple square
shapes.
Key Directions

• Simple pumps
• Minimal strap sandals
• Oversized interweaves

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Acid House
The technicolour accessories just arriving at
retail are forerunners to the eighties influenced
neon shades showing on the catwalks for next
spring. YSLs luscious satin pussycat bow evening
bags come in jewel-like violet, gold and fuchsia.
Pradas ruched satin handbags, nylon shoppers and
ballerina pumps are coloured in mouth-watering
rainbow hues. Bright patent is a big story for
this season and moving forward to spring sandals.
Louis Vuitton upgrades the jelly shoe with matt
neon wedge styles from 160 per pair.
Key Directions

• Bright patent sandals
• Matt neon jelly shoes
• Bright handbags and totes

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Winkle Pickers
Luellas Ghetto spring summer 07 collection
revives the winkle picker, worn in the fifties by
Teddy Boys and Teddy Girls. Winkle pickers, are
so called because the sharp pointed toe is
similar to the pin needed to get a winkle out of
its shell, in order to eat it. The short fronted
points currently at retail are the forerunners to
this longer pointed shilhouette.
Key Directions

• Short fronted points
• Winkle pickers

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Crystal Clear
Transparent vinyl is a major trend for shoes,
bags, belts and bangles. Clear Perspex heels are
also important. Victor and Rolf, along with Marc
Jacobs, shape theirs like faceted chandelier
crystals. Marni sandwiches a clear Perspex
mid-sole in between the leather upper and blond
wood outsole of mules.
Key Directions

• Transparent vinyl uppers and bags
• Perspex heels
• Huge crystals
• Mirror mosaics

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Minimal
Pared away lines are the message for streamlined
bags and belts. Silver and white are the obvious
choices, although bright accent colours also look
good. Brushed metal buckles and trims are kept
large and simple in design. Look out for
sculptural heel shapes and simple strappy uppers.
Key Directions

• Sculptural heels
• Silver and white
• Simple sandal straps

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Cut Outs
The international designers seem to have been
comparing notes, as so many have come up with
cutaway heels for spring. Jil Sander, Celine,
Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton and Pucci all have
them. Minimalistic oval, circular and triangular
cut outs are created with carved away outsoles or
bent metal shapes. Puccis decorative fishtail
design and Jacobs rough cut crystal theme add a
decorative note.
Key Directions

• Bent metal heels
• Rounded cut outs
• Triangular cut outs

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Wrapped Platforms
Concealed platforms, already a trend at retail,
are continued for next spring. Sandalised
versions where the straps wrap right over the
platform are a newer development.
Key Directions

• Concealed platforms
• Straps wrapped over platforms

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Flats
Although platforms have a strong presence on the
catwalks there are also plenty of flat heeled
styles. Ballerinas are updated with Chanels
skimmers, which dip low at the sides and Gucci or
Chloes ankle strap ballerina pumps, Skinny strap
thongs on leather soles are also popular.
Key Directions

• Ankle strap ballerinas
• Dip-sided skimmers
• Skinny strap thongs

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Spring Boots
Boots remain a strong category. Luellas floral
print winkle pickers give a cool look to the
classic Chelsea boot. Slouch boots are still
strong. Stretch legs are looking interesting
(which were a success back in the 80s).
Givenchys are made from black stretch patent.
Key Directions

• Floral winkle pickers
• Slouch boots
• Stretch boots

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MEN RETAIL ANALYSISWINTER 2006
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Tough Gang
The grunge revival is helping the fortune of
rugged accessories. Boots, belts and even roller
suitcases come with tarnished studs and rivets.
Energies military boot with bomber jacket
nylon cuff and Replays heavily oiled casuals are
typical of the look.
Key Directions

• Tarnished studs
• Oily suede and nubuck
• Bomber jacket nylon inserts

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Simple Utility
The workboot trend runs on and on. Broken-in
finishes are a must. Look out for raw edge
overlapped seams, leather heel flaps and waxy
beaten-up leathers. Classic Dr.Martens are making
a comeback.
Key Directions

• Heel flaps
• Raw edges
• Beaten-up leathers

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Winter Vulcanised
Vulcanised footwear takes a simple stance.
Thickly ribbed wrappers and toecaps, classically
plain uppers and subdued coloured canvas and
leathers are the message. Nikes overprinted
interweave canvas bag fits the story.
Key Directions

• Thick rubber ribbing
• Cleated soles
• Plain uppers

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Country Pursuits
Eccentric English shooting parties inspire
outdoor casuals. Chestnut coloured boots with a
buckled vamp are polished to a high shine. Miu
Mius peaked cap is detailed with heraldic crests
depicting boars heads and antlers. Fleece and fur
linings are a feature for boots. Patagonias
newly launched eco-friendly footwear collection
is on a more casual note with cross stitched
wallabies.
Key Directions

• Eco-friendly lines
• Fur and sheepskin linings
• English game-shooting nostalgia

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Tweed
Tweed, like skulls is another trend that has been
running a long time. Checked suiting fabrics,
speckled salt and pepper woolens and boating
blazer stripes are seen for casuals and trainers.
Key Directions

• Traditional suiting fabrics
• Boating / school blazer stripes
• Salt and pepper tweeds

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Derby Day
Waxy nubuck or suede Derbys are a prominent cut
for mens casuals this season. Moulded wedges,
sometimes with cleats, are seen on the sportier
styles, whereas formals come on a smooth rubber
sole.
Key Directions

• Ultra simple uppers
• Centre front butt seams
• Toes buffed to a darker colour

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Monochrome
Monochrome accessories cut a sharp edge at retail
for winter and will continue to look good for
spring. Black and white trainders, brogues and
luggage are all popular. George Coxs monochrome
brothel creepers are still going strong. The
Northampton based company is celebrating its
100th year.
Key Directions

• Monochrome prints
• Contrast blocks of colour
• Classic spectators

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On Safari
Big game prints are in the firing line for
fashion forward menswear. If Billionaire Italian
Coutures leopard spot ponyskin styles are a
little too playboy, then there are always Pumas
wildcat print sneakers. Exotic leathers are not
forgotten python and ostrich are seen for luxe
accessories such as Tods weekender
Key Directions

• Wild animal print ponyskin
• Python
• Ostrich (for luxury goods)

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Youth Market
A number of European brands are creating a new
look for youth market formals, different to what
is happening in mainstream fashion. Offices own
label, Ask The Missus, Base and Topman are opting
for slim soled, toe sprung lasts with a narrow or
snip toe. Soft unstructured uppers, especially
Californian constructions give a relaxed look.
Key Directions

• Unstructured uppers
• Snip toes
• Narrow toes

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Waxy Formals
Waxy leathers cross over into formal footwear.
Loafers, brogues, Chelsea boots and simple
lace-ups are usually buffed to a darker shine at
the toe and heel. Paul Smith created a similar
multi-tonal effect by dyeing made up footwear in
wooden drums. The dye seeps through to the
stitching and lining to achieve a deep tone. The
soles are hand painted to match.
Key Directions

• Waxy leather
• Oiled leather
• Post construction dyed shoes

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Surface Details
Minimalism may be in fashion, but these
accessories are a conflicting story. Elaborate
embosses, laser cut and fancy stitch work
embellishes footwear and bags.
Key Directions

• Fancy stitching
• Laser cut leather
• Embossed leathers

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Creased And Crumpled
More creased and crumpled footwear is arriving in
store as the season progresses. Wrinkled or
pleated vamps at the joint of the toe are the
main details. Raw edge seams and lace-less
eyelets add to the dishevelled feel.
Key Directions

• Creased toe joints
• No-lace eyelets
• Unstructured uppers

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Boot Update
Boots range from sleek narrowed toed dress
styles, such as Miu Mius with a perfed toe to
casual engineer or bikers boots. Washed and
waxed leathers give a ready-worn feel.
Key Directions

• Buckled straps
• Washed and waxed leathers
• Soft unstructured legs

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Metal Detector
Metallics and men are a difficult mix. Not many
would feel comfortable in the gold snakeskin
Chelsea boots on display in Selfridges windows.
However metallic trainers or CVOs are easier to
get away with, especially if toned down with
laidback clothing. Bronze, silver and gold are
all fair play.
Key Directions

• Metallic trainers
• Metallic snake
• Gold, silver and bronze