No unauthorized reproduction of any part of this presentation including pictures is allowed without prior written permission of ondrew j hartigan.

1
Track Modification and Application
A presentation on the process of modifying Lego
train switches to increase functionality and
reliability along with a short slide show showing
some of there advantages.

• By OnDrew J Hartigan

2
Track modification

• Switches
• Crossover
• Half curve
• Stubby
• other
• Track
• Straight
• Curve
• other

3
Switch mods/ getting started

• Remove metal rails!!!
• Removing the metal will make modification easier
  and will also make the joint stronger
• The only time you shouldnt remove the metal rail
  is track sections shorter than 5 studs

4
How to remove the rails

• Place a small flathead screwdriver in the small
  gap between the metal and wiggle it open.

5
(No Transcript)
6
cut plastic
Use a fine tooth saw. I use a zona 1/2in 52tpi
7
Cut and trimmedfor a stubby switch
The donor track is from the opposite switch. Cut
as shown and dont forget to remove the stud on
the switch!
8
Build a jig

• This jig can
• be used for both the stubby
• and the half
• curve
• modifications

9
Jig installed
10
Final fit

• Using some plates install the short piece of
  track your splicing in and trim. Take your time
  and it will be a perfect fit.
• Next mark and cut a gap for the adjoining track
  tie to slip into.

11
Reinforcing the joints

• You will need
• Hand saw with a thin fine tooth blade I use a
  ZONA 1/2in 52tpi hobby saw
• X-acto knifes both a chisel blade and a pointed
  blade
• Glue I use zap-a-gap which is CA
• Its primarily used in the model aircraft market
  but its the
• only thing I have found that works well on
  Lego
• 1_(1x6) brick I use brick because it
  bonds better than hobby sheets
• 1_(2x4) plate
• A small screwdriver or something to poke the
  reinforcing strips in
• Part of a baseplate
• Spare brick to build a holding tool..see next
  page

12
Cutting the reinforcement strips

• Build a jig to cut a 1x6 brick using a plate and
  a 1x8 piece of baseplate as your spacer. If you
  using a thin bladed saw such as the zona saw
  pictured this jig will allow you to cut a shim
  that fits perfectly under the rail.
• Next push the 2x2 plate onto a baseplate or brick
  plate and shave all 4 studs off. Be careful not
  to put your hand in front of the blade.
• Remove the plate from the baseplate and cut
  corner to corner.

13
Gluing in the reinforcement

• Glue in strip on outer rail and
• trim the piece sticking up on the other side

• Glue in the triangular piece you cut
• from the plate and trim so its flush

14
Rc track

• If you are modifying RC track congratulations you
  are now done!

15
Installing the rails

• Tools you will need
• Track and the rails
• you removed earlier
• Dremel tool with a
• cut-off blade
• Rail nippers or a small
• pair of wire cutters
• X-acto pointed blade

16
Marking the inside rail to cut

• Lay the inside rail in its rightful location
  and mark the cut location on the rail with the
  knife. It should be right around26mm from the
  edge. Cut the sides of the rail with the rail
  nippers and bend the rail up and down until it
  separates. Check for fit.

17
Marking the outside rail to cut

• Setting the outside rail is a little different.
  Start by laying the rail on the track like you
  did for the inside rail. mark the rail where it
  overlaps the metal rail of the switch. DO NOT
  CUT. Instead make another mark about ¼ inch past
  the first one. This is where you will want to
  cut. Next go back to the first line marked and
  cut the sides only. Pinch the side flaps you just
  made and bend them off.
• It should look
• something like this

18
Fitting the outside rail

• Heres where the dremel tool comes in. Take the
  metal rail with
• the top flap and grind the side edges of
  the flap down slightly.
• Next bend the flap down to a 45degree
• angle. Using your needle nose pliers
• pinch the flap about 1/16th of an inch
• from the bend and bend the flap back
• straight once. This will leave the flap
• slightly lower than the top of the rail
• which will let you slip it under the
• rail that is still attached to the switch.

19
Reattaching the rails

• Using a pair of tooth free needle nose pliers
  pinch the rail tabs to the track.
• Take your time or you will mar the rails.
• CONGRATULATIONS!!
• You have now finished your first track
  modification.

20
Using your new parts

• With the added flexibility of your newly modified
  parts you're on your way to making a more
  realistic,more reliable model railroad.

• No longer do you
• have to worry about
• S curves and the vast
• amounts of space
• wasted with
• unmodified switches
• and track.

21
Applications
On the next few pages you will see modified track
in all its glory. You will notice that not only
are new angles possible but with a few slight
modifications stock Lego switches are not only
easier to use but a lot more fun and practical.
You will also notice that trains will negotiate
the switches with greater ease and with far less
friction.
22
Unmodified verses modified
Notice the S curve is gone and the over all
required space is cut in half.
S-CURVE
23
Smooth transitions

• In this photo I used 3 half curve switches.
• This is really a simple demonstration of the
  advantages of custom switches but as you will see
  in the following slides custom switches really
  allow the user to create the well functioning
  layout he or she wishes.

24
45 deg. Anyone?
This is something that is very difficult with
unmodified switches but with a couple half curve
or stubby switches this is really just a snap.
Note only the switches are modified all other
parts are stock.
25
Switched interloc
This single function of half curve switches is
really the reason I got into modifying switches.
Again only the switches are modified. Further
this can be made with either half curve or stubby
switches.
Note only the switches are modified all other
parts are stock.
26
Junction
Stubbys gone wild!
This really begins to show how custom switches
broaden the possibilities of Lego train track.
This junction uses 3 stubby switches, and 2
half straights
27
Again all stubby switches but notice how compact
this yard is.
28

An internal yard lead
This is something that is absolutely impossible
without modified switches. Using 2 half curve
switches, 4 stubby switches 2 ¼ straights, 2 ¾
straights and 1 pair of parwellagrams for the
crossoversThis setup shows how a few parts can
really bring realism and functionality into an
otherwise extremely limited system.
29
The one and only 9v double crossover
I first made this in late 2005. As of may/1/2008
I had built 2 of these for customers. They are
the only 9v double crossovers I know to exist.
30
9v three way switch
This is the second 3-way switch Ive made. In
this picture I chose to attach stubby switches to
it to create crossovers, all though as youll see
in the next slide I am by no means limited to
this arrangement.
Note only the switches are modified all other
parts are stock.
31
Doubble interlock with Single slip and 3 way
32
Custom interlock
33
RC single slip switch
I created this single slip switch in
January/February 2008 mostly just to challenge
myself.
34
A modification for clearance
Ever wanted the switch throw on the correct side
of the track or extra clearance for that big boy?
This modification which only takes 20mins to
complete, eliminates Clearance problems with the
throw 8-wide and Longer rail cars need.
35
Thank you

• If you have any questions about modifying track
  please feel free to contact me via email at
• roj2323_at_yahoo.com