Recent and future developments in European Standardisation concerning testing of multifunctional textiles

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Recent and future developments in European
Standardisation concerning testing of
multifunctional textiles
2005-11-15
Luís Almeida Department of Textile
Engineering School of Engineering University of
Minho Guimarães - PORTUGAL
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INTRODUCTION

• European Standardisation has assumed an important
  role especially after the emergence of the Single
  European Market in 1993.
• Unlike ISO standards, CEN standards are to be
  compulsory adopted by all the CEN members (even
  if the country has voted against).

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INTRODUCTION

• Members of the European Committee of
  Standardisation (CEN) at present are
• All the 25 European Union members
• Switzerland, Iceland and Norway
• Affiliated members
• Albania, Bulgaria, Croatia, Romania, the former
  Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Turkey.

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INTRODUCTION

• There are about 300 Technical Committees within
  CEN.
• Within textiles, the most relevant are
• CEN/TC162 Protective clothing including hand
  and arm protection and life jackets
• CEN/TC248 Textiles and textile products
• In this presentation, the main emphasis will be
  given on CEN/TC248.

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CEN/TC248

• CEN/TC248 has been created in 1990.
• The scope of CEN/TC248 is
• Standardization of the following aspects of
  textiles, textile products and textile components
  of products
• 1) test methods
• 2) terms and definitions
• 3) specifications and classifications
• 4) equipment relevant for the testing and use of
  textiles.

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CEN/TC248

• Since its creation, a total of 17 plenary
  meetings took place.
• 276 European Standards have already been
  developed and published since 1990.
• 195 of these standards were adopted
  simultaneously by CEN and ISO, under the Vienna
  Agreement.

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CEN/TC248Structure
Secretariat Chairperson Secretary
BSI Mr F.Moore Mr T.Bellamy
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CEN/TC248working groups
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CEN/TC248

• One of the major tasks for CEN/TC248 is the
  development of an European sizing system for
  clothes.
• Two mandates from the European Commission have
  also recently been allocated to CEN/TC248
• Flammability of nightwear
• Safety of childrens clothing.

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• In 1994, CEN/TC248 has created an working group
  called Prioritization of research topics, with
  the following scope
• Establishment of priorities in terms of needs of
  research, in order to apply for possible funding
  of projects in the field of the EC Programme SMT
  (Standards, Measuring and Testing) through
  dedicated call for proposals.

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• Several projects have been analysed by
  CEN/TC248/WG9 and later submitted to CEN/STAR for
  publication of dedicated calls for pre- and
  co-normative research.
• The following projects have been financed under
  the 4th and 5th EU Framework Programmes for RD

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• Burning behaviour of curtains and drapes flame
  spread measurement using a large ignition source
• Development of standards for testing the
  launderability of textile items in wet cleaning
  systems and drycleanability of textile items
  hydrocarbon solvents - Machine test

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• Two other dedicated calls have been published in
  2001
• Identification and quantification organic flame
  retardant components on textile materials
• Antibacterial and antifungal properties of
  textile materials
• Unfortunately, the projects presented to the
  call, although rated quite well, have not been
  financed, due to budget cuttings.

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• Many other projects have been discussed some of
  them have lead to new standard methods, such as
• Verification of the detection limits of certain
  arylamines derived from azodyestuffs using
  chromatographic methods.
• Test method for assessment of UV protective
  properties of textiles.

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• In 1999 the scope of WG9 has been redefined as
• To define research needs in support of ongoing
  (co-normative) and future (pre-normative)
  standardisation and to prioritise them in line
  with the guidelines of CEN/TC248 Business Plan.

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• Since 2003, WG9 started to give more emphasis on
  the development of new areas of standardisation.
• WG9 has then proposed a new strategy for the
  future standardisation activities, namely in the
  area of high added value textile products,
  including for instance health care and well
  being, multifunctional textiles, interactive
  textiles, sustainable development, etc.

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• A link with the EU promoted MAXIQUEST project has
  been established.
• MAXIQUEST - Maximising Quality and Efficiency of
  Standards through Normative Research.
• www.maxiquest.net

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• After an enquiry made in 2004, it was found that
  there are no relevant national standards which
  describe appropriate test methods in the area of
  new functional textiles, including
• cosmeto-textiles
• electrostatic and electromagnetic barrier
  textiles
• relaxing or massaging textiles
• thermoregulatory textiles, etc.

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CEN/TC248/WG9

• In 2004 it was decided to create a Task Group
  COSMETO-TEXTILES, to study the development of
  test methods for the effectiveness, toxicity,
  durability and chemical analysis of textiles with
  cosmetic properties.
• This group, convened by Robert Biguet (IFTH), has
  had two meetings in 2005 and arrived to the
  following conclusions

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Cosmetotextiles

• Definition of COSMETOTEXTILE
• Textile product with cosmetic properties.
• Examples of cosmetotextiles

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Cosmetotextiles

• Moisturising
• Slimming
• Perfume
• Energizing
• Refreshing
• Relaxing
• Vitalising
• UV protection .

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Cosmetotextiles

• Aspect to be considered in future standard(s)
• Chemical analysis
• Efficiency of the product
• Toxicity of the product
• Durability of the product
• Labelling of the cosmetotextile, information to
  be provided

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Cosmetotextiles

• Chemical Analysis
• The cosmetic formula is covered by cosmetics
  industry test methods.
• The means of fixing the cosmetic to the textile
  (microencapsulation, binder, cyclodextrin, etc)
  is a textile property however, all additives
  have to comply with the cosmetics directive.

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Cosmetotextiles

• Toxicity
• Cosmetic products are again covered by the
  directive.
• Textile finishing has to be considered. The whole
  system needs to be looked at.

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Cosmetotextiles

• Efficiency
• It is a feature of the cosmetic product
• It might be that a special method, relative to
  cosmetotextiles, needs to be developed rather
  than utilise a cosmetic test method.

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Cosmetotextiles

• Durability of the active ingredient on the
  textile
• e.g. how many wash (or dry clean) wear cycles can
  the product withstand.
• Issues such as rubbing, sweating and heat need to
  be considered.
• As durability (presence) of the cosmetic is
  totally textile related this parameter can be
  addressed immediately for standardisation.
• Durability of the effect of the cosmetic is a
  more difficult subject.

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Cosmetotextiles

• Environmental Aspects
• It is not yet clear which environmental aspects
  need to be considered.
• Components before application are the concern of
  either cosmetic or chemical directives.
• Aspects during and at the end of the textile
  product's life should be considered.
• However, environmental aspects are considered to
  be less critical than the other four criteria.

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Cosmetotextiles

• In the last meeting of CEN/TC248 in Vilnius, it
  has been agreed to create a new working group to
  develop a new standard
• WG25 Cosmeto-textiles
• A call for experts is now open.
• The first meeting will take place in Paris in
  February/March 2006.

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UV protection

• UV protection can be considered as a success in
  terms of European Standardisation.
• In fact, within CEN/TC248 two standards have been
  developed which include
• Definition and test method
• Labelling.
• This method is expected to be adopted as EN ISO
  standard.

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Electrostatic properties of textiles

• In 2005, a survey about the electrostatic
  properties of textiles has been made by Fred
  Foubert (Centexbel).
• It was found that this subject is already
  extensively covered by
• CEN/TC 162 - protective clothing against
  accumulation of electrostatic charges
• CENELEC TC 78 - risks of working with live
  electrical installations
• IEC/TC 101 - electrostatic properties of all
  kinds of products methods for garments and for
  floor coverings are being developed.

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Electrostatic properties of textiles

• It was concluded that
• Electrostatic properties of textiles are not a
  suitable work area for CEN/TC 248
• In terms of conductive properties of textiles in
  view of new uses such as smart textiles,
  further studies should be made
• A study on this subject will be developed in
  2006.

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Thermoregulatory properties of textiles

• A survey about the Thermoregulatory properties of
  textiles has also been made in 2005.
• The following test methods exist in the area of
  textiles
• EN 310921994 Textiles Determination of
  physiological properties. Measurement of thermal
  and water-vapour resistance under steady-state
  conditions (sweating guarded-hotplate test)
• EN ISO 158312004 Clothing - Physiological
  effects - Measurement of thermal insulation by
  means of a thermal manikin

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Thermoregulatory properties of textiles

• The following test methods exist in the area of
  footwear
• EN 127841999 Footwear - Test methods for whole
  shoe - Thermal insulation
• EN 135212001 Footwear - Test methods for uppers,
  lining and insocks - Thermal insulation
• EN ISO 203442005 Personal protective equipment -
  Test methods for footwear (includes a test method
  for insulation against cold)

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Thermoregulatory properties of textiles

• It was concluded that existing test methods are
  quite complicated and mainly related to
  protective clothing or footwear.
• The development of simpler test methods can be a
  relevant and interesting topic to be further
  developed within CEN/TC248.
• A more detailed survey of existing test methods,
  namely for foot wear and also of national or non
  standardised test methods should be made.
• Similarly to the cosmetic properties, a special
  Task Group has been created, which will start
  its activities in 2006.

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Chemical analysis of textiles

• Especially in view of detection of harmful
  substances, it is very important to have standard
  methods for extraction of chemicals from
  textiles.
• Aspects to be standardised include sampling and
  extraction methods.

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Chemical analysis of textiles

• Two important standards have been developed
  within CEN/TC248 in 2003, related to the EU
  Directive that forbids the use of certain azo
  dyestuffs
• EN 14362 - Textiles - Methods for the
  determination of certain aromatic amines derived
  from azo colorants
• Part 1 Detection of the use of certain azo
  colorants accessible without extraction
• Part 2 Detection of the use of certain azo
  colorants accessible by extracting the fibres.

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Chemical analysis of textiles

• The method of sampling has not been adequately
  thought out, with the result that some
  laboratories base results on the whole garment
  and others on the area containing the harmful
  chemical.
• The sampling method should be defined so that all
  users will use the same criteria and results from
  different sources will be comparable.

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Chemical analysis of textiles

• In terms of extraction of chemicals from
  textiles, there are different possible
  approaches.
• For instance, Öko-Tex 100 Standard limits are
  based on an extraction with an organic solvent, a
  simulated sweat or saliva solution.
• The analysis of the extracts is common to most
  existing test methods.

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Chemical analysis of textiles

• The following decisions have been taken
• a) within CEN/TC248/WG9, Irene Häglund (IFP) will
  make in 2006 a survey in the area of chemical
  analysis of textiles.
• b) within CEN/TC248, a new working group - WG26 -
  has been created, under the convenorship of
  Stefan Posner (IFP), to develop a Method of Test
  for Phthalates.

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CONCLUSION

• The development of new functionalities in
  textiles leads to the need of standardisation in
  terms of
• Terms and definitions
• Test methods
• Labelling

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CONCLUSION

• Within textiles, CEN/TC248/WG9 will continue to
  promote these developments.
• Hopefully, the 7th EU RD Framework Programme
  will devote a specific budget for actions related
  to pre- and co-normative research.

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Maxiquest Future