Title: Life on an Ocean Planet
1- Choose to view chapter section with a click on
the section heading. - Surface Currents
- Deep Currents
- Studying Ocean Currents
Chapter Topic Menu
2- Understanding what causes currents and where they
flow is fundamental to all marine sciences. It
helps explain how heat, sediments, nutrients, and
organisms move within the seas. - Causes of Currents
- Three major factors drive ocean currents.
- 1. Wind.
- If the wind blows long enough in one
direction,it will cause a water current to
develop. - The current continues to flow until internal
friction,or friction with the sea floor,
dissipates its energy. - 2. Changes in sea level.
- Sea level is the average level of the seas
surface at its meanheight between high and low
tide. - The oceans surface is never flat, ocean
circulation cause slopes to develop. The steeper
the mound of water, the larger and faster the
current. The force that drives this current is
the pressure gradient force. - 3. Variations in water density.
- Differences in water density also cause
horizontal differences in water pressure. When
the density of seawater in one area is greater
than another, the horizontal pressure gradient
between the two areas initiates a current that
flows below the surface.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-3 9-4
3Gyres
- The combination of westerlies, trade winds, and
the Coriolis effect results in a circular flow in
each ocean basin. This flow is called a gyre. - There are five major gyres one in each major
ocean basin - 1. North Atlantic Gyre
- 2. South Atlantic Gyre
- 3. North Pacific Gyre
- 4. South Pacific Gyre
- 5. Indian Ocean Gyre
- The flow of currents in all parts of theocean is
a balance of various factors,including the
pressure gradient force,friction, and the
Coriolis effect.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-5 9-6
4Ekman Transport
- The Ekman transport is an interesting
phenomenondiscovered in the 1890s by Fridtjof
Nansen. - The wind and the Coriolis effect influences
waterwell below the surface because water tends
to flowin what can be imagined as layers. - Due to friction, the upper water currents push
the deep water below it. This deep layer pushes
the next layer below it. The process continues in
layers downward. Each water layer flows to the
right of the layer above causing a spiral motion. - This spiraling effect of water layers pushing
slightly to the right from the one above (to the
left in the Southern Hemisphere) is called the
Ekman spiral. - There is a net motion imparted to the water
column down to friction depth. This motion is
called the Ekman transport. - The net effect, averaging of all the speeds and
directions of the Ekman spiral, is to move water
90 to the right of the wind in the Northern
Hemisphere, or to the left in the Southern
Hemisphere.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-6 to 9-8
5Western and Eastern Boundary Currents
- Satellite images show that the oceans are really
hilly, not calm or flat. - These images show that water piles up where
currents meet. Where currents diverge, valleys
form. - There is a dynamic balance between the clockwise
deflection of the Coriolis effect (attempting to
move water to the right) and the pressure
gradient created by gravity (attempting to move
the water to the left). - The balance keeps the gyreflowing around the
outside ofthe ocean basin. - Geostrophic currents arecreated by the Earths
rotation. - This current results from thebalance between
the pressuregradient force and theCoriolis
effect.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-8 to 9-10
6Western and Eastern Boundary Currents (continued)
- Western boundary currents are found onthe east
coasts of the continents and are stronger and
faster than eastern boundary currents due to
western intensification. Western boundary
currents flow through smaller areas than eastern
boundary currents. - Trade winds blow along the equator pushingwater
westward, causing it to pile up on the western
edge of ocean basins before it turns to the
poles. The Earths rotation tends to shift the
higher surface level in the center of the gyre
westward. The higher surface level is now west of
center and forces the current to squeeze
through a narrower area. - Total water volume balances out.Western boundary
currents handle thesame volume, but through
smaller areas,so water must move more rapidly.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-10 to 9-16
7Countercurrents
- Countercurrents and undercurrents are water flows
that differ from the major ocean currents. - Countercurrents are associated with equatorial
currents it runs opposite of its adjacent
current. - It is hypothesized they develop in equatorial
regions because of the doldrums. Without wind
pushing water westward, water driven in from the
east enters the basin more quickly than it exits.
This causes a countercurrent to develop. - Undercurrents flow beneath theadjacent current
and are foundbeneath most major currents. - They can significantlyaffect land masses and
land temperatures.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-16 9-17
8Upwelling and Downwelling
- Upwelling is an upward vertical current that
brings deep water to the surface. Downwelling is
a downward vertical current that pushes surface
water to the bottom. - Coastal upwellings occur when the wind blows
offshore or parallel to shore. In the Northern
Hemisphere this wind blowing southward will cause
an upwelling only on a west coast. - The same wind on the east coast in the Northern
Hemisphere sends surface water toward shore
causing a downwelling. - These currents have strongbiological effects
- Upwelling tends to bring deepwater nutrients up
into shallow water. - Upwellings also relate to significant weather
patterns. - Downwellings are important in carrying and
cycling nutrients to the deep ocean ecosystems
and sediments.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-17 to 9-20
9Heat Transport and Climate
- Currents play a critical role by transporting
heat from warm areas to cool areas and affects
climate by moderating temperatures. Without
currents moving heat, the worlds climates would
be more extreme. - El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO)
- El Niño tremendously affects worldweather
patterns. - This brings low pressure and highrainfall in the
Western Pacific. - The opposite happens in the EasternPacific with
high pressure andless rainfall.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-20 to 9-22
10El Niño (continued)
- For reasons still not clear, every 3 to 8 years a
rearrangement of the high- and low-pressure
systems occur. - High pressure builds in the Western Pacific and
low pressure in the Eastern Pacific. Trade winds
weaken or reverse and blow eastward the
southern oscillation. - This causes warm water of the west to migrate
east to the coast of South America. The loss of
upwelling deprives the water of nutrients. A
normally productive region declines with the
collapse of local fisheries and marine
ecosystems. - Over the eastern Pacific, humid air rises causing
precipitation in normally arid regions. Flooding,
tornados, drought and other weather events can
lead to loss of life and property damage.
Surface Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-22 to 9-24
11Thermohaline Circulation and Water Masses
- Thermohaline circulation is water motion caused
by differing water densities. - In the deep-ocean layers, water density
variation, not wind, is the primary causeof
current. - Circulation drives most of the vertical motion of
seawater and the oceans overall circulation. - Thermohaline circulation works because
waterdensity increases due to cooling,
increasedsalinity or both. - When water becomes dense, it sinks, causing a
downward flow. - This means water in some other place must rise
to replace it, causing an upward flow. - Density differences drive the slow circulation
of deep water.
Deep Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-26 9-27
Five distinct water masses result from density
stratification.
12How Deep Water Forms
- The intermediate, deep, and bottom watermasses
form primarily, but not entirely, athigh
latitudes (around 70 North and South). - The densest ocean waters, Antarctic Bottom
Waters form in the Antarctic in winter, sink to
the bottom and spread along the ocean floor to
about 40 north latitude. - In the Arctic the North Atlantic Deep Waters
form, but often get trapped there by the
topography of the ocean basin. - In the Northern Hemisphere along the east coast
of the Siberian Kamchatka Peninsula the Pacific
Deep Waters form. Not as dense as bottom water
they make up the deep layers. - Mediterranean Deep Waters form due to evaporation
rather than cooling, with a salinity of 38.
Flowing out of the Mediterranean they form the
intermediate water layer resting above the bottom
layer and deep layer.
Deep Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-28 to 9-30
13Deep-Water Flow Patterns
- The enormous water quantities sinking at the
poles and in the Mediterranean create the
thermohaline circulation pattern. - Dense water descends into low areas and bottom
water upwell to compensate. - The rising warm water enters wind-driven currents
and is carried to the poles. There it cools,
becomes more dense, and sinks again, repeating
the process. - The Ocean Conveyor Belt
- The interconnected flow of currents that
redistribute heat is called the ocean conveyor
belt or the Earths air conditioner. - The ocean conveyor belt is important because it
moderates the worlds climate. This marriage of
surface and deep water circulation carries heat
away from the tropics and, in turn, keeps the
tropics from getting too hot. - Some scientists hypothesize that some Ice Ages
may have resulted from a disruption of the
conveyor belt.
Deep Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-30 to 9-33
14Two Distinct Approaches
- There are two main approaches to study currents
- 1. Lagrangian method, also called the float
method. - Studying the current by tracking a drifting
object. This involves floating something in the
current that records the information as it
drifts. - 2. Eulerian method, also called the flow method.
- Studying the current by staying in one place and
measuring changes to the velocity of the water as
it flows past. This method uses fixed instruments
that meter/sample the current as it passes. - Instrumentation and Methods
- There are five examples of instruments or
methods that scientists apply for studying
currents. - For Lagrangian study methods researchers use
- 1. A drogue. The advantage over a simple
surfacefloat is that the holey sock ensures
that the current andnot the wind determine where
it drifts.
Studying Ocean Currents
Chapter 9 Page 9-34
15Instrumentation and Methods (continued)
- 2. The Argo float drifts at depth before
periodically rising to the surface to transmit to
a satellite a temperature and salinity profile of
the water it rose through. - For Eulerian study methods researchers use
- 3. Various types of flow meters. These
devicesuse impellors and vanes to measure and
recordcurrent speed and direction. The
information gatheredis either transmitted
immediately or stored forretrieval later. - 4. A more sophisticated device is the Doppler
AcousticCurrent Meter. This instrument
determines currentdirection and speed. - 5. Oceanographers can now use satellites to help
them.Although they are primarily used for
studying the surface,these instruments use laser
and photography to study currents.
Studying Ocean Currents
Chapter 9 Pages 9-35 to 38