Wave Breaking (10pt)

1
Wave Breaking (10pt)

• Which type of breaker for the steepest bottom
  slope?
• Spilling breaker
• Plunging breaker
• X Surging breaker

2
Wave breaking (10pt)

• When T10s in deepwater, what is the maximum
  possible wave height H before breaking?
• 22m

3
Wave-current interaction(10pt)

• When a progressive wave meets with a opposing
  current, its amplitude (increases or decreases)
  and its wave length (increases or decreases).

4
Wave-theory Selection Diagram (10pt)

• Water depth1m, wave period7s, wave height0.3 m
• Find the best wave theory
• Stream-function

5
Wave breaking (20pt)

• Deepwater T8s, H2m (Normal Incidence) beach
  slope1/20
• Find breaker height, breaker depth, and breaker
  type using the chart
• 2.74m, 2.72m, plunging

6
Empirical Storm-surge Forecasting (20pt)

• Find the maximum sea-rise when
• Lowest atm pressure0.85 bar
• Spatial mean atm pressure1 bar
• Bay length3km
• Bay mean depth5m
• Max wind velocity40m/s
• Normal wind direction
• 194cm

7
Discrete Random Variable (20pt)

• Two successive coin flips and a throw of a dice
• Random variable s of heads dice face value
• Find the mean value 4.5

8
Continuous Random Variable (20pt)

• PDF f(x)-x2 k (0ltxlt1)
• Find k 4/3
• Find the mean value of x 5/12

9
Gaussian Process x (20pt)

• When mean2,
• standard deviation2
• Find Prob(xgt3) using G-Table .308

10
Shoaling-Refraction (30pt)

• Wave period9s
• Wave heading in deep water45 deg.
• Wave height in deep water2m.
• New wave heading at certain location 30 deg.
• What is the celerity and refraction coefficient
  there? 9.9m/s, 0.9