Glacier Travel

1
Glacier Travel

• Rob Jagnow

2
(No Transcript)
3
What makes glacier travel different from
above-treeline travel?
4
Crevasses!
5
(No Transcript)
6
Anatomy of a Glacier
Moat
Bergschrund
Firn line
Lateral Moraine
Medial Moraine
Terminus
Terminal moraine
7
Gear

• Everything for above treeline travel, plus
• Rope
• Harness
• Helmet
• Prusiks
• Anchors
• Slings
• Belay device
• Carabiners
• Wands

8
Roping Up
9
Route Finding

• Avoid Likely Crevasse Locations
• Avoid Potential Pendulum Falls (keep the rope
  perpendicular to crevasses)
• Wand you way
• Probe camp area
• Belay climbers in an out of camp

10
Oops!
11
Rescue Options

• Self Rescue
• Team Rescue

12
Self Rescue

• Drop Backpack (2-to-1 advantage)
• Prusik up rope

13
Team Rescue

• Set anchor
• Snow picket
• Fluke
• Deadman
• Bollard
• Self-belay to edge
• Check on climber
• Pad lip

14
Team Rescue

• Brute Force (Only with lots of haulers)
• Single Pulley (2-to-1 advantage)
• Z-Pulley (3-to-1 advantage)
• Other systems (x-to-1 advantage)

15
Single Pulley
16
Z-Pulley
17
(No Transcript)
18
(No Transcript)
19
(No Transcript)
20
End