TBITAKBURSA TEST AND ANALYSIS LABORATORY

1
TÜBITAK-BURSA TEST AND ANALYSIS LABORATORY
Quality and process control in textiles

• Performance Testing of textiles
• Prof. Dr. Seref GÜÇER
• TÜBITAK-BUTAL
• 18.12.2003

2
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES
For some tests, internationally recognized
standards exist, such as the ISO series of
tests but there are also many important national
or regional test standards, such as those of the
European Union (EN) or the United States
(AATCC, ASTM). In addition, many retailers
around the world have their own standards and
tests.
3
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES
Many textile properties are important to the
final customer. Some are highly specialized in
nature, but there is a core series of tests that
are applicable throughout the textile industry,
across all the world's major markets.
4
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES
Methodology and equipment may vary, but we
present here some of them that are commonly used
in our laboratory usually with reference to
equipment available to industries.
5
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• - Tensile properties of fabrics
• Determination of maximum force and elongation at
  maximum force using the strip method (ISO
  13934-1)
• Determination of maximum force using the grap
  method (ISO 13934-2)
• The method is mainly applicable to woven textile
  fabrics.It can be applicable to fabrics produced
  by other techniques. It is not normally
  applicable to woven elastic fabrics,
  geo-textiles, non-wovens, coated fabrics,
  textile-glass woven fabrics and fabrics made from
  carbon fibres or polyolefin tape yarns.The method
  specifies the determination of the maximum force
  and elongation at maximum force of test specimens
  in equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for
  testing and of test specimens in the wet state.
• The method is restricted to the use of constant
  rate of extension (CRE) testing machines.

6
(No Transcript)
7
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• - Tear properties of fabrics
• Elmendorf (ISO 13937-1)
• Single tear method-trouser shaped (ISO 13937-2)
• Single tear method-wing shaped (ISO 13937-3)
• Double tear test (ISO 13937-4)
• The test is mainly applicable to woven textile
  fabrics.It may be applicable to fabrics produced
  by other techniques, e.g. To nonwovens (with the
  same under-mentioned restrictions as for the
  woven fabrics).It general the test is not
  applicable to knitted fabrics and woven elastic
  fabrics.It is not suitable for highly anisotropic
  fabrics or loose fabrics where tear transfer from
  one direction to an other direction of the fabric
  during the tear test is likely to occur.

8
(No Transcript)
9
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• - Bursting properties of fabrics
• Hydraulic method for determination of bursting
  strength and bursting distension (ISO 13938-1)
  
• The method is applicable to knitted, woven,
  nonwoven and laminated fabrics.It may be suitable
  for fabrics produced by other techniques.The test
  is suitable for test specimens in the conditioned
  or wet state. From the available data there
  appears to be no significant difference in the
  bursting strength results achieved using
  hydraulic burst tester, for pressures up to
  800kPa.This pressure range covers the majority of
  performance levels expected of general
  apparel.For specialty textiles requiring high
  bursting pressures, the hydraulic apparatus is
  more suitable.

10
(No Transcript)
11
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• - Determination of fabric propensity to surface
  fuzzing and to pilling (ISO 12945-1, 2, ASTM D
  3512)
• At ISO 12945-2, a circular test specimen is
  passed over a friction surface comprising the
  same fabric or, when relevant, a wool abradant
  fabric, at a defined force in the form of a
  Lissajous figure, with the test specimen able to
  rotate easily around and axis through its centre,
  perpendicular to the plane of the test
  specimen.Fuzzing and pilling are assessed
  visually after defined stages of rub testing.

12
ISO 12945-2
ISO 12945-1
13
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• - Determination of the abrasion resistance of
  fabrics by the Martindale method (ISO 12947-2)
• This part of ISO 12947 is applicable to the
  determination of the inspection interval to
  breakdown of specimens covering all textile
  fabrics including nonwovens apart from fabrics
  where the specifier indicates the end performance
  as having a low abrasion wear life.

14
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Determination of the permeability of fabrics to
  air
• (ISO 9237)
• This international standard describes a method
  for measuring the permeability of fabrics to air
  and is applicable to most types of fabrics,
  including industrial fabrics for technical
  purposes, nonwovens and made-up textile articles
  that are permeable to air.
• The rate of flow of air passing perpendicularly
  through a given area of fabrics is measured at a
  given pressure difference accros the fabric test
  area over a given time period.

15
(No Transcript)
16
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to artificial light Xenon arc
  fading lamp test (ISO 105-B02)
• A specimen of the textile to be tested is
  exposed to artificial light under prescribed
  conditions, along with a set of blue wool
  references. The colour fastness is assessed by
  comparing the change in colour of the test
  specimen with that of the references used.
• For white (bleached or optically brightened)
  textiles, the colour fastness is assessed by
  comparing the change in whiteness of the
  specimens with that of the reference used.

17
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to spottingAlkali (ISO
  105-E06)
• Drops of a solution of sodium carbonate are
  placed on the specimen, the surface of which is
  rubbed gently with a glass rod to ensure
  penetration.The change in colour of the textile
  is assessed with the grey scale.

18
(No Transcript)
19
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to rubbing (ISO 105-X12)
• Specimens of the textile are rubbed with a dry
  rubbing cloth and with a wet rubbing cloth.Two
  alternative sizes of rubbing finger are
  specified, one for pile fabrics and one for other
  textiles.This staining of the rubbing cloths is
  assessed with the grey scale.

20
(No Transcript)
21
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to domestic and commercial
  laundering (ISO 105-C06)
• A specimen of the textile in contact with
  specified adjacent fabric or fabrics is
  laundered, rinsed and dried.Specimens are
  laundered under appropriate conditions of
  temperature, alkalinity, bleaching and abrasive
  action such that the resultis obtained in a
  conveniently short time.The abrasive action is
  accomplished by the use of a low liquor ratio and
  an appropriate number of steel balls.The change
  in colour of the specimen and the staining of the
  adjacent fabric or fabrics are assessed by
  comparison with the grey scales.

22
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to perspiration (ISO 105-E04)
• Specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent
  fabrics are treated in two different solutions
  containing histidine, drained and placed between
  two plates under a specified pressure in a test
  device.The specimens and the adjacent fabrics are
  dried separately.The change in colour of each
  specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics
  are assessed by comparison with the grey scales.

23
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to water (ISO 105-E01)
• A specimen of the textile in contact with one or
  two specified adjacent fabrics is immersed in
  water, drained and placed between two plates
  under a specified pressure in atest device.The
  specimen and the adjacent fabric(s) are dried.The
  change in colour of the specimen and the staining
  of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed by
  comparison with the grey scales.

24
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to dry cleaning (ISO 105-D01)
• A specimen of the textile in contact with a
  cotton fabric bag together with non-corrodible
  steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene,
  then squeezed or centrifuged, and dried in hot
  air.The change in colour of the specimen is
  assessed with the grey scale for assessing change
  in colour.At the conclusion of the test, the
  coloration of the solvent is assessed by
  comparing the filtered solvent with un-used
  solvent by transmitted light, by means of the
  grey scale for assessing staining.

25
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to sea water (ISO 105-E02)
• A specimen of the textile in contact with one or
  two specified adjacent fabrics is immersed in
  sodium chloride solution, drained and placed
  between two plates under a specified pressure in
  a test device.The specimen and the adjacent
  fabric(s) are dried.The change in colour of the
  specimen and the staining of the adjacent
  fabric(s) are assessed by comparison with the
  grey scales.

26
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to chlorinated water (ISO
  105-E03)
• A specimen of the textile is treated with a weak
  chlorine solution of a given concentration and
  dried.The change in colour of the specimen is
  assessed by comparison with the grey scale.Three
  alternative test conditions are specified.

27
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to bleachingHypochlorite (ISO
  105-N01)
• A specimen of the textile is agitated in a
  solution of sodium or lithium hypochlorite,
  rinsed in water, agitated in a hydrogen peroxide
  solution or sodium hydrogen sulfite solution,
  rinsed and dried.The change in colour is assessed
  with the grey scale.

28
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to bleachingPeroxide (ISO
  105-N02)
• A specimen of the textile in contact with one or
  two specified adjacent fabrics is immersed in the
  bleaching solution, rinsed and dried.The change
  in colour of the specimen and the staining of the
  adjacent fabric(s) are assessed with the grey
  scales.

29
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Test for colour fastness
• Colour fastness to spottingAcid (ISO 105-E05)
• Drops of a solution of acid are placed on the
  specimen, the surface of which is rubbed gently
  with a glass rod to ensure penetration.The
  changes in colour of the textile, while it is
  still wet and after drying, are assessed with the
  grey scale.

30
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Determination of resistance to surface wetting
  (spray test) of fabrics (EN 24920)
• A specified volume of distilled or fully
  deionized water is sprayed on a test specimen
  which has been mounted on a ring and placed at an
  angle of 45 so that the centre of the specimen
  is at a specified distance below the spray
  nozzie.The spray rating is determined by
  comparing the appearance of the specimen with
  descriptive standards and photographs.

31
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Determination of formaldehyde (ISO 14184-1)
• Free and hydrolized formaldehyde (water
  extraction method)
• Formaldehyde is extracted from a textile sample
  with water at 40C.The amount of formaldehyde is
  then determined colorimetrically.

32
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Determination of formaldehyde (ISO 14184-2)
• Released formaldehyde (vapour absorption method)
• A weighed fabric specimen is suspended over
  water in a sealed jar.The jar is placed in an
  incubator at a controlled temperature for a
  specified length of time.The amount of
  formaldehyde absorbed by the water is then
  determined colorimetrically.

33
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Determination of pH of aqueous extract (EN 1413)
• Electrometric measurement of the pH value of the
  aqueous extract of textiles at room temperature
  by means of a glass electrode.
• The method is applicable to textiles in any form.

34
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel
  Textiles (ASTM D 1230)
• The standard provides methods of testing the
  flammability of textiles from or intended to be
  used for apparel, explains three classes of
  flammability, sets forth the requirements for
  classifying textiles, and warns against the use
  of single or multilayer textile fabrics that have
  burning characteristics considered by the trade
  to make them unsuitable for apparel.

35
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Determination of resistance to water penetration
  Hydrostatic pressure test (EN 20811)
• The hydrostatic head supported by a fabric is a
  measure of the opposition to the passage of water
  through the fabric.A specimen is subjected to a
  steadily increasing pressure of water on one
  face, under standard conditions, until
  penetration occurs in three places.The pressure
  at which the water penetrates the fabric at the
  third place is noted.The water pressure may be
  applied from below or from above the test
  specimen.The chosen alternative should be stated
  in the test report.The result is immediately
  relevant to the behaviour of fabric articles
  which are subjected to water pressure for short
  or moderate periods of time.

36
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric
  specimens and garments in tests for determination
  of dimensional change (ISO 3759)
• Test specimens are selected to represent the
  bulk of the textile under examination.Pairs of
  reference points are marked on each specimen and
  the distance between each pair of reference
  points is measured before and after specified
  treatments.

37
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Domestic washing and drying procedures for
  textile testing (EN ISO 6330)
• A specimen is washed in an automatic domestic
  washing machine and dried according to specified
  procedures.

38
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Determination of dimensional change in washing
  and drying (EN 25077)
• The specimen is conditioned in the specified
  standard atmosphere and measured before
  subjection to the appropriate washing and drying
  procedures.After drying, conditioning and
  remeasuring of the specimen, the changes in
  dimensions are calculated.

39
PERFORMANS TESTING OF TEXTILES

• Burning behaviour-Measurement of flame spread
  properties of vertically oriented specimens (EN
  ISO 6941)
• A defined ignition flame from a specified burner
  is applied for a defined period of time to
  textile specimens which are vertically
  oriented.The flame spread time is the time in
  seconds for a flame to travel between marker
  threads located at defined distances.Other
  properties relating to flame spread may also be
  observed, measured and recorded.