WAVES

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WAVES

• disturbance caused by the movement of energy from
  a source through some medium (solid, liquid or
  gas).

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WAVES

• The energy is moving at the speed of the wave,
  but NOT the water

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WAVES

• The parcel of water moves in a circular motion
  orbit

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WAVES

• Because the wave form moves forward these are
  called progressive waves

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Orbits

• The diameter of the orbits diminishes rapidly
  with depth
• Wave motion in deep water is negligible past ½
  the wavelength

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Stokes Drift or Mass Transport

• Small net movement of water in the direction of
  the wave

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Classifying Waves

• disturbing force the energy that cause waves to
  form
• restoring force the dominant force trying to
  return surface water to flatness
• wavelength

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Wave Types

• Capillary waves
• Wind
• Surface tension
• lt1.73cm

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Deep vs Shallow Water waves

• The orbits of water molecules in a wave are
  circular only when the wave is in deep water
• A wave cannot feel the bottom if it is in water
  deeper than ½ its wavelength
• a deep water wave

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Deep vs Shallow Water Waves

• Shallow water waves moving in water shallower
  than 1/20 it wavelength
• Water at the bottom moves back and forth

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Deep vs Shallow Water Waves

• Transitional waves travel through water deeper
  than 1/20 their wavelength and shallower than ½
  its wavelength

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Deep vs Shallow Water Waves

• ONLY WIND WAVES CAN BE DEEP WATER WAVES

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How waves break at shore...

• A deep water waves feels bottom and becomes a
  transitional wave
• orbits become elliptical
• crests become peaked
• wave height increases
• wave slows down
• wave length decrease

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How waves break at shore...

• The wave becomes too high for its wavelength and
  the wave breaks
• The surf zone is the region between the breaking
  waves and the shore.

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INTERFERENCE

• Destructive interference cancellation effects
  of subtraction
• When a wave crest and another waves trough
  coincide

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INTERFERENCE

• Constructive interference addition effects that
  form large crests and deep troughs
• When crests coincide

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Wave Refraction

• When waves do not approach parallel to shore
• The wave line will bend to become more parallel
  to shore

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