Waves

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Waves
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January 28, 1998

• Condition Black
• http//www.youtube.com/watch?vbVU43tNSXXc

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Parts of a Wave

• Crest
• Trough
• Height
• Wavelength

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Other Terms to Know

• Period
• Time a wave takes to go by a given point
• Frequency
• Number of wave crests passing a given point each
  second

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Formation of Waves

• Driven by wind

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Building a Bigger Wave

• Wind Velocity
• Wind Duration
• FETCH
• Distance of open water over which wind blows

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Waves Transport Energy

• Water particles dont go anywhere
• Under a crest, water moves up and forward
• Under a trough, it moves down and back
• Overall effect water moves in circles
• http//www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/episodes/condition-
  black/interactive-high-seas/2297/
• Energy put into wave by wind is expended on shore

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• As waves approach shore, they drag along bottom ?
  slows
• Waves behind catch up
• Waves pile up
• Become higher and steeper
• Eventually waves too high and steep, they fall
  forward
• SURF or Breakers

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Killer Waves

• Rogue Waves
• Giant waves that appear out of nowhere
• Crests of different waves meet at the same time
  combine
• Tsunamis
• Seismic sea waves
• Very long 150 miles
• Very fast 435 mi/hr

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• http//www.youtube.com/watch?vawjxwVIkvMofeature
  PlayListpAD987C648FFF390Bindex20
• http//www.youtube.com/watch?vFCWfRs1frYEfeature
  related