Pattern Drafting, Standard Blocks, Toiles, Industrial Pattern Cutting, Grading and Lay Planning

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Pattern Drafting, Standard Blocks, Toiles,
Industrial Pattern Cutting, Grading and Lay
Planning

• AS Textiles

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Flat Pattern Cutting

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Flat Pattern Cutting

• Enables accurate sizing and fast production of
  complicated styles.
• Also known as pattern drafting.
• Method of producing a shaped garment that fits a
  3D shape.
• Basic blocks are used
• to make a pattern fit
• an average figure.

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Flat Pattern Cutting

• Basic blocks are based on British Standards eg
  BS3666 (Specification for womens sizes) and
  BS6185 (Specification for mens sizes).
• Production patterns are developed from basic
  blocks and working patterns.

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Basic Block Pattern

• Used to develop every type of garment style.
• Enables the quality
• control of garment sizes.
• Is traced or wheeled
• onto pattern paper to
• produce a working
• pattern.

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Working Pattern

• Used for marking out basic styles and design
  features.
• Can be adapted more.
• Used to trial the garment style.

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Production Pattern

• Includes all seams, hems, grain lines and pattern
  information required to make the product.
• Used to cut the
• fabric for high
• volume production.

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Pattern Grading

• Means increasing or decreasing flat pattern
  pieces to created a range of sizes.
• Sometimes small, medium, large (more cost
  effective than 8,10,12 etc).
• Grading alters the size of a design but not its
  shape / appearance.
• Hand grading is time consuming.
• Usually done with computers (fast and accurate).
• There are two types of pattern grading
• Individual size
• Standard size

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Pattern Grading

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Individual Size Grading

• For bespoke / one off garments.
• Adapts a basic block to fit the client.
• Takes account of individual sizes eg hips, waist,
  inside leg.

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Standard Size Grading

• For mass production.
• To fit a range of average body sizes.
• Based on either
• British Standards size charts of body
  measurements.
• A manufacturers own garment specification or net
  of patterns stored in a database.

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Industrial Pattern Cutting

• Uses ICT.
• Makes patterns from blocks.
• The block is digitised and stored in a database.
• Digitising converts an existing flat pattern into
  a series of number co-ordinates that are
  electronically transferred into a computer
  programme.
• The digitised block can be displayed on screen
  and modified.
• Darts can be altered, parts removed and resized.
• The new pattern is then graded up or down.
• A lay plan is produced and stored on the computer.