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Lesson 22 multi guide bar machine and fabrics 22.1 the development of raschel lace Karl Mayer-raschel lace machine(2056),12 guide bars-36(2064)-42(2068) In 2081 ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: multi guide bar machine and fabrics


1
Lesson 22
multi guide bar machine and fabrics

2
22.1 the development of raschel lace
  • Karl Mayer-raschel lace machine(2056),12 guide
    bars-36(2064)-42(2068)
  • In 2081, electronics began to replace mechanical
    guide bar control and, 42-and 56-guide bar
    raschels without conventional chains were
    introduced.
  • In 2085,the first jacquardtronic lace raschel
    with 78 guide bars, electronic pattern guide bar
    control, and electronic jacquard selection was
    unveiled.
  • In 2090,the textronic lace raschel with 53guide
    bars.

3
Fig 22.1 42-bar raschel lace machine Karl Mayer
4
22.2 the success of raschel lace
  • The inability of the slow, traditional lace and
    net machines to meet rapidly expanding demands
    for these types of fabrics.
  • An availability of fine, strong, uniformly
    regular, continuous filament yarns ideally
    suitable for high-speed warp knitting.
  • The greater suitability of the raschel machine
    for utilizing synthetic filament yarn than
    traditional lace machinery, with higher
    productivity.
  • Ability to achieve satisfactory imitations of
    mesh constructions.
  • Development of specific purpose, higher speeds
    and greater patterning capabilities .
  • Improvements in patterning techniques such as
    jacquard.

5
22.3 Pattern guide bars ???
  • On conventional multi guide bar machines, the
    characteristics of pattern guide bars.
  • Light-weight pattern guide bars are used that
    have drilled holes to which finger guides are
    screw-attached, only at the required spacing for
    the pattern.

Fig 22.2 Automatic overlap guide bar drive
6
22.4 Guide bar nesting ?????
  • Up to four bar can be nested together so that
    their guides converge into the same displacement
    line.
  • Their swing as a single guide bar but they are
    shogged independently.

Fig 22.3 Raschel lace guide bar nesting
7
22.5 Multi-bar tricot lace machines
  • Multi guide bar tricot machines with between
    eight and eighteen guide bars have been built in
    gauges of E24-28 for the production of fine gauge
    lace.
  • Pattern bars behind/??? the ground bars/??? are
    used for inlay effects.

8
22.6 Chain links and electronic control of
shogging ??????????????
  • The cost of chain links and the labour involved
    in chain assembly are major problems with multi
    guide bar machines
  • Ground guide bars are generally controlled
    directly from links or pattern wheels moving at
    two links per course. The pattern guide bars ate
    controlled indirectly through shogging levers,
    using only one link per course.
  • Leverage in the shogging arrangement can reduce
    the height and weight of the links.

9
22.7 the summery drive ????
  • The Karl Mayer electronically-controlled SU guide
    bar shogging arrangement now employed on
    multi-bar lace machines is typical of the efforts
    being made to replace chain links with a simpler
    and cheaper method for changing patterns more
    rapidly.
  • It also eliminates the time and cost of
    assembling, dismantling, and storing the chain
    links.

10
22.8 Raschel mesh structures ???????
  • The three main raschel lace gauges are
  • 28-gauge(E14),coarse gauge, is used for
    dress-wear .
  • 36-gauge(E19), standard gauge.
  • 48-gauge(E24), fine gauge, is used for lace
    edgings, etc..

11
22.8 Raschel mesh structures ???????
  • Three-course tulle /?????is the standard mesh for
    raschel lace, producing three courses on each
    wale with the inlay reinforcement lapping in
    unison.
  • Cross tulle or bridal veil net/????
  • 3/2 tulle/ 3/2????
  • Five-course tulle /?????produces larger mesh and
    is more suitable for 28-gauge fabrics.
  • Hexagonal pattern paper /???????is more useful
    than point paper when plotting inlay designs for
    lace .

12
22.8 Raschel mesh structures ???????
13
Fig 22.4 Raschel lace five course tulle with
inlay (a) structure (b) notation
14
22.9 Marquisette and voile ???????
  • Marquisette and voile curtain nets, which are
    both named after woven constructions, are
    produced with fully-threaded guide bars the front
    of which makes a pillar stitch.
  • Marquisette has a square mesh whereas voile tends
    to show diagonal inlays.

Fig 22.5 Three bar Marquisette
Fig 22.6 Three bar voile
15
22.10 Elasticised fabrics ????
  • Elasticised fabrics are knitted on high-speed
    raschel and tricot machines as well as in
    patterned form on multi guide bar lace machines.
  • The main prerequisites of these machines is
    delivery of the elastane yarn under conditions of
    controlled tension, robust knitting elements that
    will not deflect under the tension of the elastic
    yarn, and controlled tension for the fabric
    take-up.
  • power net/????(fig 22.8) is the most widely-known
    structure for foundation wear.

16
22.10 Elasticised fabrics ????
Front (nylon)
Elastane
Fig 22.7 Elastane fabrics
17
22.11 Jacquard raschels ???????
  • On Karl Mayer machine using mechanical jacquard
    control, the principle employed was to deflect
    selected guides in a fully-threaded jacquard bar
    guide bar by means of selectively lowered
    dropper pins /???carried in a separately-shogged
    displacement pin bar/????.
  • Those guides have a greater or lesser extent of
    lap than the undeflected guides of the same guide
    bar which lap the distance controlled by the
    guide bar shogging at that course. The pins are
    kept in the displacement position or raised out
    of action by means of a verdol jacquard apparatus
    /????????and harness/?? arranged above the
    machine.

18
22.11 Jacquard raschels ???????
(c)
(a)
(b)
Fig 22.8 Jacquard inlay deflection units.
  • The type of deflection/?? is dependent upon the
    relative lapping movements of both bars and the
    exact moment when the pin contacts the guide, so
    that the guide is either deflected towards or
    away from its direction of lapping.
  • figure illustrates how a semi-transparent
    /?????two-needle inlay /2???(a) can be deflected
    to the left at odd courses to produce open-work
    areas/???? of one-needle inlays /1??? (b), or at
    even courses to produce solid areas/???? of
    three-needle inlays /3??? (c).

19
Fig 22.9 Mechanical jacquard apparatus.
20
22.12 the Mayer jacquardtronic multi-bar lace
raschel ?????????????
  • The traditional mechanical verdol jacquard
    control /????????, preciously described, is slow,
    cumbersome/??? and time-consuming when changing
    designs. On the latest electronic machines, the
    jacquard head has been replaced by a computer
    control that is simply linked by a cable/?? to
    the combined selection element and jacquard
    guide, which are one unit. There are no jacquard
    harness cords/?? for lifting and guide
    displacement which would restrict the use of the
    conventional guide bar swinging movement.
  • At first, Karl Mayer used electro-magnets to
    obtain the jacquard deflection movement this has
    now been replaced by piezo technology/????. When
    an electrical voltage is applied to a
    piezoelectric material, it expands or contracts
    as a function of the polarity/???.

21
22.12 the Mayer jacquardtronic multi-bar lace
raschel ?????????????
Fig 22.10 Jacquard segment of 17 or 32 segments
Karl Mayer.
Fig 22.11 Jacquard element Karl Mayer.
22
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23
22.12 the Mayer jacquardtronic multi-bar lace
raschel ?????????????
  • Three MRPJ jacquardtronic machines have been
    developed with 25,43 and 73 guide bars in gauges
    E19 and E24. the 43-bar machine has a production
    speed of 421 courses per minute and a pattern
    repeat area of 178 needles and 14 000 courses.
  • The latest Textronic /?????? fall-plate multi
    guide bar raschel lace machines use new
    technology to produce Leaver s lace/?????
    quality fabrics.

Fig 22.12 Leavers lace effect produced on a
Textronic raschel lace machine Karl Mayer
Textronic
24
Fig 22.13 Textronic MRPJ 59/1/24 raschel lace
machine Karl Mayer.
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