Personal Care Overview

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Oleon A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
Personal Care Overview
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Oleon is a leading company in Europe for the
production of chemicals based on Natural Oils.

• Oleon Company
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group,
Europes reference for vegetable oil with
activities in food, feed, biofuels and
oleochemistry. Oleon has production sites in
- Belgium (Ertvelde and Oelegem) - Germany
(Emmerich) - France (Compiègne) - Norway
(Sandefjord) In 2009 Oleon started Producing
natural esters in Malaysia (Port Klang)
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Raw Materials Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut,
Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor

• Oleon Company
• Product overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

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Oleochemicals are esters, fatty acids, glycerol..

• Oleon Company
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

Applications Soap, detergents, Personal Care,
Lubricants, Food,
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• W/O Properties
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 5. Formulations

• Fatty acids (Radiacid)
• Glycerine, Propylene Glycol
• Radia esters based on PEG,(Poly)glycerol,
• fatty acids, fatty alcohols, sorbitol,
• Emulsifiers
• Emollients
• Stabilizers
• Opacifying
• Bodying agents

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Radia Esters building blocks
Isostearic
Polyols
Sorbitol
(Poly)glycerol
Fatty alcohols
Fatty Acids
Pentaerythritol
Isoamyl
PEG
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• W/O Properties
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 5. Formulations

HLB was invented 60 years ago by William C.
Griffin The letters HLB stand for Hydrophilic
Lipophilic Balance It was intended as a
large scale road map to good emulsification
performance. It was invented for use with
NONIONIC surfactants in particular.
Hydrophilic head
Lipophilic tail
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• mixing unlike oils together
• use surfactants with HLBs of 1 to 3
• making water-in-oil emulsions
• use surfactants with HLBs of 4 to 6
• wetting powders into oils
• use surfactants with HLBs of 7 to 9
• making self emulsifying oils
• use surfactants with HLBs of 7 to 10
• making oil-in-water emulsions
• use surfactant blends with HLBs of 8 to 16
• making detergent solutions
• use surfactants with HLBs of 13 to 15
• for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying )
  into water

• Oleon Company
• Product overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

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R7908 Glyceryl Monolaurate 90

• Oleon Company
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

• Our technology has lead to a monoglyceride gt
  90.
• (Co)Emulsifier with HLB of 5.0 and super
  emollient with enhanced skin feel.
• Antibacterial properties good performance on
  yeasts,moulds and gram . Addition of a good
  chelant (EDTA) can increase the performance on
  gram -.
• Viscosity increasing in surfactant systems as
  hydrophobic thickener where combinations with eg
  CAPB are made.
• Potential of penetration enhancer of active
  ingredients.

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Antibacterial Properties of GML

• Oleon Company
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 6. Formulations

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Radiamuls 2932
PEG free solid O/W emulsifier Self emulsifying

• W/O Properties
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 6. Formulations

• HLB of 10-12
• INCI GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE
• Gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance
• Synergy with Radia 7145 (Sorbitan Stearate)
• Formation of gel network in water phase
• The natural skin moisture barrier is mimicked
• Improved moisturizing performance of O/W emulsion
• Enhanced stability of emulsion
• Skin pleasant rheological profile

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Radiamuls 2990
Anionic,PEG free solid O/W emulsifier Multi
functional

• Oleon Company
• Product overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

• HLB of 16.
• INCI Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
• Skin conditioning and moisturizing
• white fluffy powder
• light emulsions rich in water
• Can also act as a foam booster in cleansing
  formulations

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• Oleon Company
• Product overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

Stability, no antioxydant needed
Saturated Products

Lower melting point compared to straight-chain
analogues
No crystallization

Cold emulsion process easy to
handle Important for heat sensitive products
included in high demanding formulations
Liquid products

Non greasy afterfeel, lipid film more
substantive, Soft on the skin and glossy
aprearance, Excellent emolliency
Branched products
Main products derived from oleic acid can be
replaced by the corresponding isostearic
derivatives without loss of performance.
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Product Range (INCI) Radia

• Oleon Company
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• Formulations

• Isostearic Acid 908 /
  909
• Neopentylglycol Diisostearate 7687
• Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate 7179
• Triisostearin 7373
• Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate 7380
• Isopropyl Isostearate 7739
• Sorbitan isostearate 7758

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Radia 7373
Good substantive, rich and non tacky feel
emollient

• Oleon Company
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 6. Formulations

Properties and Benefits
Applications

• INCI Triisostearin
• Functions as dispersant adhesion promotor of
  pigments. As solubilizer for active ingredients.
• Can help modifying melting points!
• Special interest combined with light emollient
  for long lasting spreadability (no migration).
• Comparable to some natural oils but easier to
  emulsify.

• Lipsticks (long lasting)
• Colour cosmetics

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Radia 7179

• W/O Properties
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 6. Formulations

Good substantive and rich emollient
Properties and Benefits
Applications

• INCI Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
• Functions as emollient, dispersant water
  repellent.
• Provides high gloss film, resists rub off,
  reduces drag on application.
• Substantive and cushion feel.
• Good alternative to castor oil.

• Sun care
• Liquid foundations
• lipsticks
• high solid make up

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Radia 7380
Good lubricating and rich film forming emollient

• Oleon Company
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 6. Formulations

Properties and Benefits
Applications

• INCI Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
• Functions as dispersant for solid ingredients, as
  potential SPF booster.
• Delivers shine and plasticizer properties in hair
  care.
• Non tacky sensorial properties.
• Improves skin elasticity.
• Mineral oil replacement

• general skin hair care
• depilatory creams,
• colour cosmetics,
• sun and baby care,
• shaving formulations

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Radia 7687

• W/O Properties
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 6. Formulations

Silky and good spreading emollient
Properties and Benefits
Applications

• INCI Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate
• Skin Conditioning
• Silky and rich skin feel

• Sun care
• Protective creams
• Shaving creams

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Radia 7739

• W/O Properties
• Product Overview
• HLB
• Emulsifiers
• Isostearic Esters
• 6. Formulations

Light feel emollient with fast absorbtion and
excellent spreadability
Properties and Benefits
Applications

• INCI Isopropyl Isostearate
• Functions as overall reducer of tackiness,
  effective solvent and disperser.
• High gloss low occlusive.
• Fast absorption, imperceptible afterfeel on the
  skin(Better than IPM), low amount of residue.

• Unique ingredient for many cosmetic preparations
• Face and eyes make up

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Radia 7887Cold Water-in-oil emulsifier
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• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous Examples
• R7887
• Formulations

1. W/O Properties

• Skin protection
• Long lasting moisturisation
• Resemblance to the natural skin protective
  barrier
• Improved spreading and penetration of active
  ingredients
• Reduced preservative concentration

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• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous Examples
• R7887
• Formulations

2. W/O Applications

• Sun Screen milks, lotions and creams
• Night creams
• Creams lotions for dry and sensitive skin
• Skin protective baby creams
• Massage milks

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• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous examples
• R7887
• Formulations

4. R7887..

• ...is liquid and allows cold production reduced
  cost!
• ...is based on natural raw materials is PEG
  free.
• ...has no need for co-emulsifier ? single
  emulsifier
• is fit for high and low internal face
• ...provides emulsions with a glossy appearance
• functions at low levels (1)

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• Solid emulsifier requires temperature (cost)
  input.

• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous examples
• R7887
• a. Cold Process
• b. Emollients
• c. Single Emulsifier
• 5. Formulations

Cost
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• R7887 doesnt require heating possible cost
  reduction!

• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous examples
• R7887
• a. Cold Process
• b. Emollients
• c. Single Emulsifier
• 5. Formulations

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• Potential cost reduction thanks to cold proces.

• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous examples
• R7887
• a. Cold Process
• b. Emollients
• C. Single Emulsifier
• 5. Formulations

Hot Proces vs Cold Proces Hot Proces vs Cold Proces
Weighing and mixing Weighing mixing
Heating Homogenisation
Homogenisation Addition of other raw materials
Cooling agitation Filling
Time loss during cooling /
Addition of other raw materials /
Cooling to room tempurature /
Filling /
Minutes
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
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b. Emollients influence formulation.

• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous examples
• R7887
• a. Cold Process
• b. Emollients
• c. Single Emulsifier
• 5. Formulations

• water gt Viscosity Formulation
• Viscosity emollients gt Viscosity
  Formulation
• Homogenisation gt Stability ( Viscosity)
  Formulation

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c. Single Emulsifier. Test protocol

• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous examples
• R7887
• a. Cold Process
• b. Emollients
• c. Single Emulsifier
• 5. Formulations

Test formulation W/O Oilphase Oil 10
or 18 or 30 Emulsifier 1 or 3.5 Waterphase Glyc
erol 4 MgSO4.7H2O 0,7 Preservative
q.s. Water to 100 Low external phase
10 High external phase 30 Low surfactant
1 High surfactant 3.5
Centrifuge stability (3x15min _at_ 4000rpm)
Temperature stability 1week _at_ 50C 2months_at_ 40C 3 months_at_ RT
Viscosity stability ( mPas) Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle After 1 day After 3 months
appearance Visual aspect
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c. Single Emulsifier. Conclusions

• W/O Properties
• W/O Applications
• Famous examples
• R7887
• a. Cold Process
• b. Emollients
• c. Single Emulsifier
• 5. Formulations

• 1 emulsifier is stable for MCT and paraffin oils
  (18).
• 3,5 emulsfier is stable for MCT, sunflower oil
  and paraffin oils. Separate esters are being
  tested.
• Highest viscosity and synergy is obtained by
  using sunflower oil.
• Internal phases till 82 were achieved.

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5. Formulations
Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2
Phase Ingredient INCI w/w
A Radia 7887 Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate Sorbitan Isostearate 3.6
Radia 7373 Triisostearin 0.5
Radia 7363 Triolein ( Sunflower oil) 18
B Glycerin 4810 Glycerin 4
water Aqua To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O 0.8
C preservative 0.7
Viscosity 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle
7, rpm 10, 1 min.) Assessment Rich protective
cream, high viscosity, film forming , good
spreading
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5. Formulations
W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3
Phase Ingredient INCI w/w
A Radia 7887 Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate Sorbitan Isostearate 4
Radia 7208 Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 2
Radia 7732 Isopropyl Palmitate 11
Sweet almond oil 2
Avocado oil 2
B Glycerin 4810 Glycerin 3
water Aqua To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O 0.5
C preservative 0.7

• Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6,
  rpm 10, 1 min.)
• Assessment Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel,
  smooth afterfeel , good spreading

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5. Formulations
Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1
Phase Ingredient INCI w/w
A Radia 7887 Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate Sorbitan Isostearate 3,6
Paraffin Oil 15
Radia 7373 Triisostearin 0,5
Radia 7500 Cetyl Palmitate 2
B Glycerin 4810 Glycerin 3
water Aqua To 100
Mg.SO4.7H2O 0.5
C preservative 0.7
ZnO 10

• Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6,
  rpm 10, 1 min.)
• Assessment Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel,
  smooth afterfeel , good spreading

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Oleon A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
Isoamyl Esters
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Isoamyl Esters
Biofermentation
Isoamyl Alcohol

Vegetable Fatty Acids

Isoamyl Ester
Isoamyl esters are the natural alternative
to high performance dispersing products.
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Isoamyl Esters

• Fully natural originates from fusel oils coming
  from the bio -fermentation of sugar beets
• Isoamyl alcohol isobutyl carbinol isopentyl
  alcohol
• Vegetable fatty acids C8/C10, C12, C14, C16,
  C18 ,C16-C18, cocoate, oleate
• Oleon isoamyl esters contain only natural
  building blocks.

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Radia 7750 Isoamyl Laurate

Sunscreen products UV filters
Very good solvating power

Colour cosmetics and skin care.
Ability to disperse pigments

Baby care and cleansing formulations
Excellent skin compatibility

Improved spreadability.
Low viscosity Quick absorbing
Silicone
like sensorial profile
Excellent sensorial profile
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R7750 Sensorial Properties
During rubbing
After rubbing
R7750
Dimethicone
IPM
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Visual evaluation of wetting properties
 10 gr TiO2 C12-C15 A. B. Castor Oil IA Laurate IA Myristate IA Palmitate IA Oleate
12 ml     5      
13 ml     4 5 5  
14 ml     2 5 5 4
15 ml 5 5 1 4 4 3
16 ml 4 4   4 4 2
17 ml 3 4   4 4 1
18 ml 3 4   3 3  
19 ml 3 4   2 2  
20 ml 3 3   2 2  
21 ml 3 3   1 1  
22 ml 3 2        
23 ml 3 2        
24 ml 2 1        
25 ml 2          
26 ml 1          
1 smooth dispersion
2 Glossy dispersionslighly Granular
3 Granular cream
4 Granular paste
5 Adhesive paste
Isoamyl esters disperse the same dosage of
pigment TiO2 with a small amount of ester.
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Analytical evaluation of wetting properties
Isoamyl esters provide a steady viscosity with
increasing TiO2 concentration. This stability
translates into easier handling for end
formulations.
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R7750 Application Info

• Imparts a dry lubricating feel in the presence of
  large amounts of mineral oil or vegetable oils
  i.e., de-oils mineral oil and de-greases
  vegetable oils.
• Is a short chain ester which acts as a superior
  solubilizer of lipophilic cosmetic raw materials
  as eg sunscreen agents.
• Provides high spreading and quick penetration.
• Acts as an anti-tack agent.
• Acts as a wetting agent and auxiliary suspending
  agent for waterinsoluble powdered products.

• First choice emollient in natural and
  conventional cosmetic frame formales

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Formulation Data

• Usage level 4-80. Often used as primary oil.
• Higher usage levels 30-80 in all kind of body
  oils bath oils.
• 5-20 in both O/W and W/O emulsion creams.
• Wet wipes O/W 0.5-2
• Natural hair care products 1-5