Zermatt Climbs

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Zermatt Climbs
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July-August 1958

• During a driving tour of Europe with Dean Taylor
  taking train from Visp to Zermatt. Climbers
  were told to first visit graveyard.

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Gornergrat, Rifelhorn, Monta Rosa
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Rifelhorn practice climbing with Eddie Petrig
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Glacier Ice Fall Monte Rosa
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Dean Taylor
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Charles Mader
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Eddie Petrig, Dean Taylor, Charles Mader
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Monte Rosa

• Trip was September 14 to 30, 1963 to Geneva then
  to London to attend meeting at AWRE
  Aldermaston.
• Monta Rosa climb was 9/18/1963

New York International Airport Sunset
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Zermatt Train Station and Pollux Hotel No
Automobiles
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Petrig Hotel and view
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Matterhorn had too much snow for climbing for
rest of 1963.
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Monte Rosa Second Highest Peak in Alps at
15,203 ft was still climbable.
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Train to Gornergrat and Riflehorn
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Trail to Gorner Glacier
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Monte Rosa had not been climbed for several weeks
because of weather and snow hazards.
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Breithorn from Gorner Glacier
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Monte Rosa Hutte
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Monte Rosa Hutte 9170 ft
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Toilet overhung Glacier but had great views
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• Matterhorn and Castor from Hutte

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Bergfurher Eddie Petrig decides to climb. Other
climbers and guides in the Hutte told him the
American could never make the summit that they
had not been able to climb for days.
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• The climb to the summit of the Dufourspitze was
  in clouds on a snow covered ridge with plaques
  where climbers and guides had fallen. They made
  interesting reading while on belay. A snow
  gulley that Petrig was climbing came lose. He
  called I hope you have it. I called back I
  am bombproof. After the rope stopped his fall
  he later told me he had wondered as he was
  falling what American idiom bombproof meant.

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Descent
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Petrig Damn IT- Why did you stop? Mader To
take a picture why are you bitching? Petrig
Because you stopped in the middle of a snow
bridge over that big crevasse.
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Return at about 4 p.m. Climbers at Hutte met us
with hand shaking and hugs. Petrig said I
told you this old American has climbed more
mountains than any of you.
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Hikes from Zermatt
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Ober Rothorn Hike
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Monte Rosa from Ober Rothorn
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Rimpfischorn from Ober Rothorn
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Zinalrothorn and Trift Valley
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September 9-10, 1971

• Matterhorn 14,688 feet
• Third Trip to Zermatt to climb Matterhorn and
  this time during climbing season it was last
  climbing day of 1971 as snow storm arrived after
  we returned to hut.
• From hut climb took 5 hours up, 4 hours return.

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Matterhorn Hutte
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ROUTE
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Eddie Petrig and Zermatt Friend
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Charles Mader and Zermatt Local on Matterhorn
Summit
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Charles Mader on Swiss Matterhorn Summit Cross
on Italian Summit
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Weisshorn looking NW from Matterhorn Summit
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LOOKING NORTH ZERMATT - DOM
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Nadelhorn, Dom, Rimpfischhorn, Ober Rothorn
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Gornergrat, Rifelhorn, Monte Rosa
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Monte Rosa, Castor, Pollux, Breithorn, Kleine
Matterhorn Looking East
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Looking South into Italy and toward Turin
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Breithorn, Kleine Matterhorn, Theodulgletscher
from Matterhorn Summit Skied it 3/1986
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3/1986Emma Jean and Charles Mader on top of
Kleine Matterhorn Gondola
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Breithorn
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Breithorn and Kleine Matterhorn
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Skiing at base of Matterhorn
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9/2000
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