Shampoo

1
Shampoo

• How to formulate solutions

2
Lesson Topics

• Shampoo Market Overview
• Consumer Problems
• Surfactant Science
• Formulating a shampoo
• Testing

3
Lesson Objectives

• Shampoo Market Overview
• Introduce the shampoo market
• Consumer Problems
• Explain the problems shampoo formulas are
  designed to fix
• Surfactant Science
• Discuss surfactant properties
• How they are relevant to cosmetics
• Formulating a solution
• Dissect a shampoo formula
• Explaining what ingredients are used and why
• Testing
• Explain how to test a shampoo

4
Shampoo
5
Shampoos

• Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair and
  leave it a more manageable state
• Solutions - one of the simplest types of
  cosmetic formulas

6
Shampoo Market

• Overall Market
• Hair care market estimated 40 Billion
  worldwide
• Amount of money spent in US on Shampoo/conditioner
  
• 2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)
• Does not include Walmart

7
US Top Brands

• BRAND
• Pantene PG
• Head Shoulders PG
• Herbal Essences PG
• Suave - Unilever
• Garnier (Fructis) LOreal
• Tresemme Alberto Culver
• Matrix (Biolage) LOreal
• L'Oreal (Vives) LOreal
• Dove - Unilever
• Private Label
• John Frieda - Kao

• MARKET SHARE
• 16
• 7.6
• 7.5
• 6.9
• 6.6
• 4.0
• 3.9
• 3.8
• 3.3
• 3.3
• 3.2

Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
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US Top Brands

• BRAND
• Suave - Unilever
• Pantene PG
• VO5 Alberto Culver
• Herbal Essences PG
• Garnier (Fructis) LOreal
• Head Shoulders PG
• L'Oreal (Vives) LOreal
• Tresemme Alberto Culver

• Units sold (millions)
• 20.9
• 19.5
• 11.8
• 11.5
• 10.6
• 7.5
• 5.4
• 5.2

Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
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Shampoo Market

• Types of shampoo (marketing)
• Normal
• Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc)
• Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore)
• Strengthening
• Curl
• 2 in 1
• Color treated
• Color Enhancing
• Baby (tear-free)
• Natural

10
Shampoo Market

• Specialty
• Anti-dandruff
• Anti-lice
• Hair loss treatments
• Significantly Different
• Powdered shampoos
• No-rinse shampoo
• Co-washing

11
Consumer Problems

• Clean hair / oil removal
• Moisturize
• Easier to comb
• Prevent frizz
• Shine
• Volume
• Medicated
• Anti-dandruff
• Anti-lice
• Hair loss

12
Addressing the problems

• Problem
• Clean hair / oil removal
• Moisturize
• Easier to comb
• Prevent frizz
• Shine
• Volume
• Medicated
• Anti-dandruff
• Anti-lice
• Hair loss

• Technology
• Surfactants
• Conditioning agents
• Anti-dandruff agents
• Acaracides
• Minoxidyl

13
Surfactant Science
14
Surfactants

• Defined
• Molecules compatible with water oil
• Surfactant Surface Active Agent

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Surfactant Molecule
Hydrophilic Lipophobic Hydrophobic Lipophilic
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Surfactant in solution

• Reduces surface tension
• Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil)?
• Forms micelles to suspend particles

17
Surfactant

• Typical surfactant mixture
• Surfactant is mixed with oil
• Lipophilic tails orient with oil
• Polar heads orient with water
• Micelles are created
• Micelle formation
• Critical Micelle Concentration

18
Surfactant Solutions

• Depending on concentration different structures
  are formed
• Simple shampoos are basically surfactant
  solutions (no oils)?

19
Surfactant Structures
20
Surfactant Functions

• Key in Shampoos
• Cleaning / Detergency
• Wetting
• Dispersing
• Foaming
• Thickening
• Conditioning
• Other functions
• Emulsification
• Solubilization
• Penetration enhancement
• Antimicrobial activity
• Opacification

21
Detergency

• Two types of dirt in hair
• Solid particulate
• Oily deposits
• Solid particulates
• From pollution, hair products
• Adhere via Van der Waals forces
• Anionics non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of
  surface

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Detergency

• How surfactants remove liquids
• Remove dirt grease from surfaces
• Mechanism
• Surfactant orients along oil/water interface
• This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution
• Rinse water removes the oil micelle

23
Wetting

• Breaks down the inherent surface tension of water
• Water with surfactant can spread better on the
  hair

Without Surfactant
With Surfactant
24
Dispersing

• Particles are suspended in the shampoo / water
  solution
• They are removed upon rinsing

25
Foaming

• Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid medium
• Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers of
  liquid films
• Foam doesnt contribute much to removal of dirt
• Consumers like foam but it doesnt really mean
  the product cleans better

26
Thickening

• Viscosity of surfactant solution can be affected
  by
• Concentration of surfactant
• Salt concentration
• pH

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Types of Surfactants

• Anionic
• Negatively charged
• Amphoteric (Zwitterionic)?
• capable of both positive negative charges
• Cationic
• Positively charged
• Nonionic
• No charge

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Anionic Surfactants

• These are the primary shampoo surfactants
• Alkyl Sulfates
• Examples - SLS
• Alkyl Ether Sulfates
• Example ALES
• Alpha Olefin Sulfonates
• Examples

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Anionic Surfactants

• Other types
• Sulfosuccinates
• Alkylbenzene Sulfonates
• Acyl Methyltaurates
• Acyl Sarcosinates
• Acyl Isethionates
• Acyl Polypeptide Condensates
• Monoglyceride Sulfates
• Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates

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Anionics

• Why use them?
• Excellent detergency
• Relatively inexpensive
• Good foaming
• Highly stable
• Drawbacks
• Can be irritating
• Drying to hair

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Amphoteric Surfactants

• Can have a positive or negative charge depending
  on the pH of the solution
• Zwitterionic
• Types
• Cocamidopropyl Betaine
• Cocoamphopropionate
• Sodium Lauraminopropionate

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Amphoteric Surfactants

• Why use them?
• Good Detergency
• Less Irritating than anionics
• Helps thicken system
• Helps improve foam
• Drawbacks
• More expensive
• Do not foam well enough on their own

33
Non Ionic Surfactants

• Surfactant molecules with no charge
• Types
• Fatty Alkanolamides
• Lauramide DEA
• Cocamide DEA
• Amine Oxides
• Lauramine Oxide
• Stearamine Oxide

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Non Ionic Surfactants

• Why use them?
• Foam enhancer
• Reduce irritation
• Increase viscosity
• Conditioning effect
• Anti-static effect
• Solubilize fragrances
• Baby Shampoos
• PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate
• Drawbacks
• Safety issues
• More expensive
• Do not foam well on their own

35
Cationics

• Positively charged surfactant molecules
• Types
• Cetrimonium Chloride
• Stearylalkonium Chloride
• Not used for shampoos
• Dont clean as well
• Dont rinse as well
• Dont foam as well

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Shampoo Formulations
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Shampoo Characteristics

• Aesthetics
• Appearance
• Clear
• Pearlized
• Thickness (Viscosity)?
• Foam
• Creamy, rich to thin loose
• Harshness
• Conditioning effects

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Basic types of Shampoos

• Normal
• Volumizing
• Moisturizing
• 2 in 1
• Baby
• Natural

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Shampoo Performance
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Shampoo Formula

• Water
• Surfactant
• Secondary Surfactant
• Preservative
• Conditioning agent
• Color
• Fragrance
• Feature Ingredients
• Specialty ingredients

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Shampoo Formula

• Secondary Surfactant
• Modify viscosity
• Improve foam
• Reduce irritation
• Aesthetic ingredients
• Opacifying agent
• Clarifying agents
• Colorants

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Shampoo Formula

• Conditioning agents
• Silicones
• Cationic polymers
• Preservatives
• Fragrance
• Feature Ingredients
• Formula Adjusters
• Acid
• Chelating agents

43
Cosmetic Formula sheet
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Normal Shampoo Formula
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Activity of Ingredients

• Many raw materials are sold diluted
• Solids Raw material water
• Eg. ALS sold as 28 solids
• 32 of the supplied raw material is only 9
  solid ALS
• Active is usually synonymous with Solids

46
Volumizing Shampoo Formula
47
Volumizing Shampoo

• Higher level of surfactant
• Volumizing polymer (optional)?
• Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride

48
Moisturizing Shampoo Formula
49
Moisturizing Shampoo

• More gentle detergents
• Added conditioning ingredients
• Polyquaternium-7
• Dimethicone Copolyol
• Pearlized (optional)?
• Glycol Stearate

50
2-in-1 Shampoo Formula
51
2 in 1 Shampoo

• Added conditioning ingredients
• Dimethicone
• Polyquaternium-10
• Pearlized
• Glycol Stearate
• Stabilizing agent (optional)?
• Carbomer

52
Baby Shampoo Formula
53
Baby Shampoo

• More mild detergent system
• Compromise qualities for mildness
• Foam
• Detergency
• Conditioning
• Minimize fragrance

54
Natural Shampoo Formula
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Natural Shampoo

• Sulfate free detergent
• Gentle preservatives
• No Parabens
• No DMDM Hydantoin
• Natural extract ingredients
• Synthetic fragrance free?

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Making the batch
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Equipment

• Beakers
• Mixers
• Thermometer
• Stand
• Hot plate
• Scale
• Weigh boats
• Plastic wrap

58
Formulating Equipment
59
Shampoo Batching tips

• Cover batch with plastic wrap
• Record time, temp, changes
• Pre-weigh ingredients
• Weigh container prior to making batch
• Compensate for water loss
• Take specification readings at the end
• Adjust as needed

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Shampoo testing

• QA/QC Tests
• Performance Tests

61
Shampoo testing

• QA/QC Tests
• Specifications
• Viscosity
• pH
• Appearance
• Odor

62
Shampoo testing

• Use Tests
• Try product yourself
• Panel testing

63
Shampoo testing

• Tress testing
• Combing
• Feel / Softness
• Shine

64
Shampoo testing

• Foam testing
• Blender
• Shake test

65
Shampoo testing

• Safety testing
• Patch testing
• Irritation tests

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Shampoo Stability testing
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Shampoo Summary

• Shampoo Market Overview
• Big compared to other cosmetics
• Consumer Problems
• Cleansing, conditioning primary problems
• Surfactant Science
• Makes oil water more compatible
• Responsible for cleaning hair
• Formulating shampoos
• 6 types of shampoos
• Testing
• Use tests, lab tests, and QC tests

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Shampoos