Fashion History

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Fashion History

• 1900s 1950s

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1900s S-Curve

• The silhouette softened into the S-shaped curve
  with softer shoulders, less restrictive corsets,
  and the bustle, never returned.
• The three-piece suit for gentlemen was
  introduced. The suit was relatively non
  constricting with a sack coat, simple vest, and
  pleated trousers.
• In 1906 the permanent wave was developed.

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Charles Nestle using his electric machine to produce a Nestle waved hairstyle.
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1900s

• 1903

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1900s, Bloomers Bicycles

• Life began to move at a faster pace with many new
  inventions, such as the telephone, electric
  light, and the automobile, that gave people more
  luxury and freedom. The new two-wheeled cycle,
  was the craze of the country. Amelia Bloomer
  designed a practical outfit for the avid cyclist
  consisting of a tunic dress worn over loose
  trousers gathered at the ankle. Later this was
  revised into a split skirt with gathers under the
  knee, called Bloomers.

1896 Bicycle Dress
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1900s The Bathing Suit

• The one piece bathing suit was introduced by
  Annette Kellerman which shocked the world.

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Movies that represent 1900-1910

• Meet me in St. Louis
• Anne of Green Gables

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1910s

• Men and women wore Dustcoats to protect their
  clothing when driving or riding in cars.

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Events that effected the time

• World War I 1914 - 1918

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1914 Underwear and the First Patented Bra The
fashions of the era needed a new approach to
under foundations. The first bra was patented in
1914 by Mary Jacobs an American. It is not
thought to be the first bra ever, but it is the
patented record that gives her the credit. Cretan
women had the idea long before and various BBs or
Bust Bodices or improvers had been around in
Britain and France since the Edwardian era and
exist today in costume collections. Several
designers including Paul Poiret, Lucille and
Vionnet all say they invented the bra as correct
underwear for their new dress innovations and
admonished clients to abandon their corsets. We
will never truly know. What is certain is that a
bodice designed separately from the corset had
become usual wear by 1905 and Mary Jacobs had the
intelligence to patent a design for a bra.
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World War I Fashion

• World War I saw fashion come to a standstill with
  patriotism at an all-time high.
• During and at the end of WWI. The barrel
  silhouette or tonneau look comes in.It is a
  baggy dress/jacket combination that made women
  look large and droopy in the chest.

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Womens Movement

• The womens movement demanded the right to vote,
  wear make-up, cut their hair short for the first
  time in a Bobbed style, and wear skirts above the
  ankle.

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1910s The Hobble Skirt

• French designer Paul Poiret broke the new rule of
  freedom by designing the Hobble Skirt. The
  hemline was so narrow that women could only take
  very tiny steps. The Pope spoke out in defense
  of the women, so Poiret split the skirt to the
  knee, bringing a response of outrage from the
  public.

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Movies that represent 1910s

• Anne of Avonlea
• Titanic
• Somewhere In Time

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1920s Tubular

• Life began to move ahead and fast. The fashion
  silhouette at this time was straight up and down
  or Tubular.
• The brassiere was introduced, but it was used to
  flatten the figure, not uplift or enhance it.
• Safe make-up, costume jewelry, and suntans were
  in great demand.

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Flapper vs. Thinking Woman

• The Flapper wore a headband around her forehead,
  usually with a feather in front. Her face was
  powdered, her skirt was the shortest in history,
  and her knees were rouged. Silk stockings were
  the rage they were rolled down just above the
  knee.

• The Thinking Woman was college educated and
  considered herself to be the opposite of the
  flapper. Her dress was emancipated but not
  extreme.

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Influence of England

• The Prince was the ultimate trend setter of the
  1920s
• He often wore Oxford bags, extremely wide
  trousers, often reaching 25 inches at the knee
  and cuffed at the bottom.

• Cardigan sweater, plus-fours/oxford bags, argyle
  socks, wingtip shoes, club stripe tie.

• Edward 8th Prince of Wales the major social
  mediator of fashion. Shown here in a suit and
  overcoat, ascot at the neck.

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Coco Chanel sporting short hair wearing one of her simple jersey outfits and revealing bare arms and flesh toned stockings. Click thumbnail
The great fashion designer Gabrielle Chanel
1883-1971 self styled herself to be known as Coco
Chanel.  By 1920 the silhouette of her clothing
designs have come to be the epitome of 20's
style.  The work of other famous designers beside
hers seemed old fashioned and outmoded belonging
as they did to the pre World War One era. She
promoted the styles we associate with flappers.
She worked in neutral tones of beige, sand,
cream, navy and black in soft fluid jersey
fabrics cut with simple shapes that did not
require corsetry or waist definition.  They were
clothes made for comfort and ease in wear making
them revolutionary and quite modern.  She was the
Jean Muir or Donna Karan of her day and the
originator of the LBD - that little black dress. 
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1920s - Designers

• Paul Poiret vowed, I will strive for omission,
  not addition. This he did with dresses which
  hung from the shoulders to the wiast, with soft,
  silky, flowing, sheer fabrics.
• Coco Chanel made a hit in fashion using black and
  navy in simple frill-free designs. She said,
  Each frill discarded makes one look younger.

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Wallace Carothers Invents Nylon 1927, Production
1938 In 1927 Dr. Wallace Carothers began to
research new polymers and eventually discovered
polyamide. By 1938 the Du Pont company was
producing commercial nylon and by 1939 making
knitted hosiery. Later it was given the
commercial name Nylon. Nylons were eventually
available in 15 denier and these were very sought
after particularly in the 2nd World War. Nylon
hosiery transformed women lives. No more bagging
and sagging of stockings and a sheer allure which
enhanced their legs.
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Events that effected the Time

• Good times ended with the crash of the stock
  market, which led to the Great Depression.
• Crash in 1929.

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Movies that represent 1920s

• The Great Gatsby
• Singing in the Rain
• Thoroughly Modern Millie

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1930s Depression Era

• The Depression brought about the classic styles
  in suits and dresses, clothing that would last a
  long time and stay in style. The shirtwaist
  dress was one such classic.
• Hand-me-downs became fashionable not only for
  thrifty families, but for everyone.
• Separate skirts and blouses were a highlight,
  with a white blouse being a must in any wardrobe.
• Flap sacks held the powder compact for womens
  makeup.
• Depression babies had layettes sewn from sugar
  sacks while school children often wore underwear
  embellished with the trademarks of Pillsbury
  flour. combination, were the fashion in millinery
  wear.

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1930s Hemlines

• Hemlines in the 1930s went down and down again.
  By the end of the 1930s fashion seemed to stand
  still in the shadow of impending war.

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1930s on the Bias

• Bias cut gowns were popular for evening wear.

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The Zip Schiaparelli liked new things as well as
new ideas. In 1933 she promoted the fastener we
call the zip or zipper. The metal zip had been
invented in 1893 and by 1917 it was somewhat
timidly used for shoes, tobacco pouches and U.S.
Navy windcheater jackets. Her use of the new
plastic coloured zip in fashion clothes was both
decorative, functional and highly novel. They
soon became universally used and are now a very
reliable form of fastening. 
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1930s and Movie Stars!

• Attention to actresses offstage clothing probably
  reached its fever pitch with the ensembles
  created for Gloria Swanson.

Ginger Rodgers in a Cowl Neck.
Jean Harlow
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1930s Sportswear
Pants for women, flared at hem, worn for extreme
casual wear only. Also called beach pajamas.
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Movies that represent the 30s

• Annie
• Wild Hearts Cant Be Broken

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1940s

• World War II (1939-1945) effects fashion directly
  in this time period.
• L85 was a law which restricted the manufacture of
  clothing. Ruffles were forbidden. Only one
  pocket per blouse or shirt was allowed. Hems
  could be no deeper than 2 inches and the widest
  part of the hem of a dress could not exceed 72
  inches. Hemlines rose and leveled off just below
  the knee.
• For men several things were removed cuffs,
  vests, 2 pant suits, patch pockets, cloth belts,
  and pleats.

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Rationing Of Clothing, Cloth and Footwear From June, 1941 Rationing has been introduced not to deprive you of your real needs, but to make more certain that you get your share of the country's goods - to get fair shares with everybody else. When the shops re-open you will be able to buy cloth, clothes, footwear and knitting wool only if you bring your food ration book with you.  The shopkeeper will detach the required number of coupons from the unused margarine page.  Each margarine coupon counts as one coupon towards the purchase of clothing and footwear.  You will have a total of 66 coupons to last you a year so go sparingly.  You can buy where you like and when you like without registering.
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Item Of Clothing Women Girls
Lined mackintosh or coat over 28" 14 11
Under 28" short coat or jacket 11 8
Frock, gown or dress of wool 11 8
Frock, gown or dress of other fabric 7 5
Bodice with girls skirt or gym tunic 8 6
Pyjamas 8 6
Divided skirt or skirt 7 5
Nightdress 6 5
Dungarees or overalls 6 4
Blouse, shirt, sports top, cardigan or jumper 5 3
Pair of slippers, boots or shoes 5 3
Other garments including corsets 5 2
Petticoat or slip, cami knickers or combinations 4 3
Apron or pinafore 3 2
Scarf, gloves, mittens or muff 2 2
Stockings per pair 2 1
Ankle socks per pair 1 1
1 yard wool cloth 36"wide 3 3
2 ounces of wool knitting yarn 1 1
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War Restrictions

• Not only fashion was restricted but food was
  rationed.

• Stockings, which were not required under pants,
  were expensive and usually not available. Women
  in this picture are shown painting their legs to
  appear to have nylons on.

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1940s

• With the fashion industry closed down by the war
  in Europe, the U.S. was left to its own designers
  for fashion direction. The designers turned to
  the military for inspiration.
• The Eisenhower jacket made fashion history as it
  was adopted for civilian use. The shoulders were
  roomy and cofortable. The bomber jacket was
  based on the Air Corps flying coat made of
  leather with knit wrist cuffs to keep out the
  wind. It was usually lined with alpaca fur. The
  Montgomery beret was the inspiration for hats.
  Elastic could not be used so a close fitting hat
  was the sensible choice.

This woman was married in a suit quickly for her
husband to be shipped out.
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40s Inverted Triangle, broad shoulders Thin
hips

• Women began to wear pants as he practical dress
  for work in industry. It was not too long before
  pants were popular outside the workplace as a
  comfortable casual fashion.
• The fashion at this time was very manly and the
  fabric was sensible tweed. The shoulder was
  square, wide and padded. Suit dresses were very
  popular and saddle stitching ws a favorite trim.
• Men wore colors reflecting the time khaki and
  other muted colors.

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Influence on Women

• The women were thrown into the workplace and then
  told to leave once the men returned. However,
  women now had their eyes open to the
  opportunities available to them.

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The New Look

• In 1947, a French designer, Christian Dior
  launched what he called The New Look. The war
  was over, the men had returned home, and The New
  Look gave women a softer, more feminine look and
  curve. This look was stylish, elegant, and
  reflected the opposite of wartime restrictions.
  The hemlines fell to just above he ankle and
  skirts were incredibly full. Yards and yards of
  fabric were used as well as petticoats with
  crinoline and flounces of lace. The shoulder pad
  was dropped with a thud and the sloping, soft
  shoulder replaced the squared, manly look. The
  bustline was accented the waistline was high and
  cinched in again.

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In the 1940s make up was kept to a minimum due to
a shortage of constituents and the seeming
frivolity of its use. However hairstyles and the
variety of looks they produced were very
important. The influence of film stars helped
make fashionable, styles such as the Veronica
Lake style.
Veronica Lake and her flowing tresses.
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Moments that changed Time

• World War II 1939 - 1945

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Movies that represent the 40s

• A League of Their Own
• Memphis Belle
• I.Q.

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The 1950s
Marilyn Monroe - Her perfect natural hourglass body for the 1950s. Her body ideal would today be considered too heavy for today's icons of beauty. Click thumbnail  
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 Elizabeth Taylor who set trends in hair and make up looks. Click thumbnail 
Dusty Springfield the British singer and her beehive hairstyle.  This half up, half down style was a compromise between wearing the hair up and wearing it down.
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Teenagers 1950's Teenage Consumers Until 1950 the
term teenagers had never before been coined. 
Children were known as girls and boys were called
youths once they displayed signs of puberty. Then
young people were grown up at 18 and fully adult
legally at 21 when they often married and set up
a home of their own even if it was rented room. 
Getting married was a way of showing the adult
world that you belonged to their world and was a
way of escape from puberty. During the 1950s a
range of influences including film, television,
magazines and the rock music scene created a new
market grouping called teenagers. A sudden flurry
of consumer goods denied to war torn Europe were
available and a consumer boom was actively
encouraged.
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New Synthetic Fashion Fabrics Many of the 1950's
fabrics were synthesised from petrochemicals.
They were promoted for their easy care wash and
wear qualities which often meant a quick rinse
and drip dry with  minimal or no ironing
required.  Initially they were novel, but
expensive materials.  Crimplene at first could
only be bought in high class Madame shops. Nylon
(Polyamide), Crimplene (Polyester) and Orlon
(Acrylic/ Polyacrylonitrile) were all easy to
look after and were soon affordable.   Crimplene
enabled everyone to wear white and pastel colours
because they could be washed easily as polyester
does not yellow like white nylon does with age
and sunlight.  The fabric also tailored well and
could be made into button front, double breasted,
wide collar dresses and retain a crisp appearance
through washing. 
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Early 1950's Shoes Early 1950's shoes were often
very high, but with rounded or peep toes and low
cut front uppers.   Strapped sandals with finer
heels were popular as were heavier thicker heels
for lower shoes, but by the mid fifties kitten
heels and metal tipped steel stiletto heels
replaced styles that owed more to designs that
had been brought out to compliment the New look
of 1947.
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