??af??e?a 1

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??????S?????? ??G????? ????? ???S???O? ??S
???S??????S ?GOG?S ??? ??? ?????????????
S?????S???
?etapt???a?? ??p??µat??? ???as?a t?? tµ?µat??
F??? ?a? ??a ??pa?de?t??? ?a? ???as?a??
?e??ß?????ta st?? ???????a t?? ?????f???a?
??aµ??f?s? ?a?t?t?ta? ?????????? F???? ??sa ap?
t?? ??da ?a? t?? ??d?s?
??ßa??t?d?? ???
?p?ß??p??sa ?a????t??a G?as???a ?a??a
??d??, ???t??? 2011
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I. ????S ??O??
1. ??ß?????af??? ??as??p?s?
1.1. ??sa????

• S?µa?t???? e?e???t?? as???????a? µe t? µ?da ?a?
  t?? e?d?µas?a ?? ????????? fa???µe?a, ap? t??
  a???? t?? 20?? a???a.
• ? p???e??ste??? ???? e??a? ? ??????µ??????
  Thorstein Veblen (1957) p?? p??s????se ta
  e?d?µata sa? p??sa?µ?st???? st?at??????, p??
  ???s?µ?p?????ta? ap? ta ?t?µa, ?ta? s?µµet?????
  st?? s????????? ?????????? eµpe???e?. ?s?????eta?
  ?t? ? ?µf??? d??stas? t?? µ?da? ap?te?e?
  ??????µ??? d?e??as?a, epe?d? ? e?d?µas?a e??a?
  d?µ?s?a ep?de??? ??????µ???? ?s????.
• ? f???d?st?? ????????? J. C. Flügel, p??
  d?µ?s?e?se t? 1930, t? ß?ß??? t?? The Psychology
  of Clothes. ??ste?e? ?t? ? µ?da ßas??eta? st??
  se???a????? d?af???? a?d??? ???a????. ?
  ?????te?? s?µß??? t?? st?? ?e???e? pe?? µ?da?
  e??a? ? µe???? a?se???? e??at??e???. ??? 18?
  a???a, t? a?d???? ??d?µa d?a??sµe?ta? ??? ?a? p??
  ????. ?? ??d?e? e??at??e??a? t?? a???s? t??? ?a
  ?e?????ta? ?µ??f?? ?a? efe??? st??e???? ?a e??a?
  µ??? ???s?µ??.
• ? ?st?????? e?d?µas?a? Valeria Steele (1989),
  d?e?e??? t? s??s? ?????????? f???? ?a? µ?da? st?
  ß?ß??? t?? Men and Women Dressing the Part.
  ?s???????e µe t?? d??d?s? t?? pa?te?????? ?a? µe
  t?? ???s?.
• ? ????????????? Fred Davis (1992) p?ste?e? ?t?
  ?? ?????????? aµf???µ?e? µeta?? a??e??p?t?ta?
  ??????t?ta? d?µ???????? e?t?se?? p??
  a?ta?a????ta? st?? e?d?µas?a.
• ? µe?et?t?? t?? ?pt???? p???t?sµ?? Malcom
  Barnard (1996), st? ß?ß??? t?? Fashion as
  Communication, t????e? ?t? t? ??d?µa e??a?
  s?stat??? t?? ta?t?t?ta? t?? ?a?e??? ?a? ?t? ?
  µ?da ?a? ? e?d?µas?a s?µß????? st??
  ?????????p???s? st??? ?????? ?s?t?ta? ?a?
  se???a????t?ta?.

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2. O ????? t?? ??d?µas?a?

• ? ?µes? ????? epaf? ?a? ? ???e??t?ta t??
  ?µat?sµ?? µe t? s?µa, t?? ?a??st? ?d?a?te?a
  eµfa?? st?? ?atas?e?? t?? ?????????? ta?t?t?ta?
  ?e???? ?a? t?? ?????????? f???? e?d???te?a.
• ?? ?t?s?µ? ep??e??e? ?a? e?f???e? t?? a?t????e??
  ??a t?? ?a?t? ?a? ??e? e?d??? ?a?a?t??a ?? ?????
  a?t??e?µe??, ???? t?? ?µes?? epaf?? µe t? s?µa,
  e?e????ta? sa? f??t?? a??µesa st? ?t?µ? ?a? t??
  pe??ß?????ta ????????? ??sµ?.
• ?a e?d?µata de? e??a? sta?e?? st???e?a, p??
  e?d???? ??a ?d? ?a????sµ??? ? sta?e?? s?µa, ??te
  p??ß?????? µ?a ?d? d?aµ??f?µ??? ta?t?t?ta, a???
  e??a? t??p?? p?? ?? ?????????? ta?t?t?te?
  e?t?p????ta? ?a? p???t???af???ta? st? s?µa.
• ?a ????a e??a? t? ??at?, ap?sp?µe?? d??µa p??
  e?f???e? f???d???e?, fa?tas??se?? ?a? ??e??a.
• ? t??p?? p?? ?a???a? d?aµ??f??eta? µ?sa ap? ta
  ????a, t? µa?????? ?a? t?? s?µpe??f??? ap?te????
  t?? ta?t?t?ta t?? se???a????? ?a? ??????????
  ??s?? t??, d??ad? ta ?t?µ??a s?µata ap?te????
  e??a?e?a a?t?d?a?e???s??.
• ? t?p?? e?d?µat?? e??a? s?µa?t???? st?? e?µ??e?a
  t?? e????a? t?? s?µat?? ?a? f?s???, ??e? e?
  s??e?e?a ep?pt?se?? st?? apa?t?t??? s?µpe??f???.

2.1. ?????????? ?e?????sµ?? t?? ??d?s? ?a? ??
S?et???? ??t?d??se??
?p?????? ?????????? pe?????sµ?? st?? ??d?s?, p??
pe????????? t??? a????p??? pa??????a µe ??µ????
pe??a?????? p?a?t????, ?? ?p??e? as???? p?es?
st???/st?? s?µµet????te?/e? ??a p??sa?µ??? se
?????????? ?a???e? eµf???s?? ?a? s?µpe??f????.
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2.2. ??d?µas?a ?a? ???e?

• ???e ?????p?? t? st??µ? t?? a????ep?d?as?? t??
  µe ??????, µ?s? t?? ??d?s?? ep????e? t?? Persona
  p?? ep???µe? ?a e??a?.
• ? e?d?µas?a e??a? ??a? s?µa?t???? ?a? e?????µ??
  t??p?? ?a ep????????se? ??p???? t?? a??e? t??,
  p???s??? se ?????????????? ?a? s??a?s??µat????
  s???pe?e?.
• ?? ?f?? st?? e?d?µas?a ep??e??eta? ap? t??
  ????a??e? a??e?, t?? ????????? st?s?, t??
  ???????????????µ??? ??s?, t? st?d?? ????
  ??p????/a? ?a? ap? t?? pe??st?se?? p?? ?a ?e??se?
  ?a ßeßa??se? t?? a?t?pa???s?as? t??/t??.
• ? a?d???? ??d?s? ape??????e? t? s?????t??s? t??
  e???s?a? ?a? t????e? t? a?se???? ?????.

2.3. ? S?µß????? G??ssa t?? ??d?µas?a?

• ?a e?d?µata, s?????? t??????? ??p??a
  ?a?a?t???st??? t??/t?? ???st?/t??a?, a??? ?
  t??p?? d?µ?s?? t?? p????f???a? de? e??a? p??ta
  ???st?? ?a? ? e?µ??e?a t?? ap? t??? ?????? µp??e?
  ?a p?????e?.
• ? Lurie ?p?st????e? ?t? ? e?d?µas?a s???st? µ?a
  p???? ?pt??? ???ssa µe d?a???t? ?e???????.
• ? ??d??a? ??d?s?? e??a? p?? asaf?? ?a?
  ap??sd????st?? s?µe????????. ??t?? ap? t??
  pe??pt?s? t?? st????, s?????? p??te??e? ?a?
  ?p???e? p??? pe??ss?te?a ap? ?t? d????e?, µe
  ap?t??esµa ?a p??se????e? pe??ss?te?? t? µ??s???
  pa?? t?? d???t??? ?µ???a.
• ?a ????a ????? t?? ?d?a d?a?e?t??? s??s? µe t?
  s?µa, ?p?? ? ???ssa µe t?? ?a?a?? s????.
• ? e?d?µas?a t?? ?p??µ?d?? ?e??a?a?, d?af??et????
  p???t?sµ??, p??t?????? f???? ?a? ?µ?f???f??????
  ?????t?t??, ß?????? ?a ?ata????e? t? p??
  e?f?????ta? µ?s? ?µat?sµ?? ?? a??e? t??
  s???e???µ???? ?????????? ta?t?t?t??.

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2.4. Ge????? Te???e? ?e?? ?µat?sµ??

• Te???e? ??a t?? ?e?t?????a t?? e?d?µas?a?,
  a?af????ta? st?? seµ??t?ta ap??pe?a, st??
  p??stas?a ap? ???µat???????? s?????e?, se
  ??????????? ?s? ?a? ???????????? pa?????te?.
• ? Thorndike p??sße?e ?t? t? ??d?µa e??p??ete?
  t?? a??????e? a????e? p??stas?a ap? ????,
  ?e?µ?t?ta, ß????, a???????? t?? ?????s? ap? t???
  ??????, t?? ep?d???? ???d???, t?? e??t?t??p?a ?a?
  t?? a?t??????s?.
• St? ?e???a t?? ????t??? t?? Maslow, ??
  e?p?????µe?e? a????e? (p?? ?e?t??????? ?????? st?
  ?p?s??e?d?t?) e??a? ?at? se??? a) f?s?????????
  a????e?, ß) asf??e?a, ?) a?s??µa t?? a???e?? se
  µ?a ?µ?da, d) a?t?seßasµ??, e) a?t?p?a?µ?t?s?,
  st) ???st???? ?a??? ?a? ?) a?s??µat???? a????e?.
• ? Ryan (1966) a?af??e? t?sse??? ???????????????
  ?e???e?. ?) ??? ß?ß???? ?e???a t?? seµ??t?ta?.
  ?) ? ?e???a p?? d?ate??eta? ?t? ta e?d?µata
  ef?st??? p??s??? sta ?a??µµ??a µ??? t?? s?µat??
  ?a? s?µf??a µe a?t??, ????et????a? a????? sa?
  se???a???? ?????t??. G) ? ?e???a t?? p??stas?a?
  ap? f?s??? fa???µe?a, ??t?µa, e??????, a??µ? ?a?
  ?pe?f?s???? d???µe??. ?) ? ?e???a t??
  d?a??sµ?s??, ?p?? ta e?d?µata ?e?????ta? µ?s??
  a?s??t???? ??f?as?? µe s??p? t?? ???? µeta?? t??
  f????.

3. Ge???? ?e?? ??da?

• ??a ap? t?? p????? p??sp??e?e? ???sµ?? t?? µ?da?
  e??a? t? p???t?st??? s?st?µa t? ?p??? s??d?e? t??
  a??e? t?? a????p?? µe t? ??d?µa.
• ?? p??t?? ?e???t???? t?? ??da? Simmel ?a? Veblen
  s?s??t?sa? t?? µ?da µe t?? ????????? ??s? t??
  ???a????.
• ?? s?????? ?a? ?? ???e? ????a? ??? ?a?
  pe??ss?te?? ß?t???a, p?? µe t?? ??µ??t?t? t???
  pa???s?a?a? t?? p???t?? ?a? t? ????? t?? ast??
  a?d???.

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3.1. ????????????a t?? ??da?
? Simmel ?e??e? ?t? ? µ?da ??e? d?? ??e? d??
?eµe???de?? s?µß?????? ?e?t?????e? a) ?a
t???ste? ? d?????s?, ? d?af???, d??ad? ?
at?µ???t?ta ?a? ß) ? a????? ?a e?f?aste? ?
?????t?ta, d??ad? ? ??ta?? t?? at?µ?? st?? ?µ?da.
3.2. S?µe??????a ??da?

• ?? ????a??? st???e?? t?? µ?da? st? f??eµa ?a?
  st? st???sµ? e??a? ? t??p?p???s? t?? ?????????
  ??d??a t?? ep????, st?? s??s? s?µa????t??
  s?µa???µ????.
• ?????? ?e???e? a?af????? t? se???a???? ???te?a,
  t? d????d? ap? t?? a??a, ??????µ??? s?µf????ta
  (???s? ap? ?atas?e?ast?? ??????) ?a? s?µß?????
  a?apa??stas? ?????????? (ta?????) a??s?t?t??,
  a??? se ??e? e??p???e? ? ?d?a ?t? ta ????a ?????
  t?? d??at?t?ta ?a d?at?p?s??? p??? ap?? ?a? µe
  ?ept? t??p?, ?????????? ta?t?t?te? ???e e?d???.

3.3. ???t??? t?? ??da?

• ?? feµ???st??e? s?µe?a ?a? pa?a??te?a
  ???t??????? ta se???a???? pa?ep?µe?? t?? ?a? t??
  ?atap?es? t?? f????.
• St? feµ???sµ? ta e?d?µata t?? µ?da? ?a? ?
  ?a???p?sµ?? ?????ta? a?t???pt? sa? a?d?????
  ep?ta??? ?a? ep?µ???? ap?te???? ??f?as? ?p?ta???.
• ? ??????t?ta p?? d?µ???????? e??a?
  ?atas?e?asµ??? ?a? ep?ßeß??µ??? ?????????.
• ? s??????s? µeta?? µ?da? ?a? feµ???sµ?? e??a?
  a????t? ?a? d?sep???t? ??µa.
• ? a??s???a t?? feµ???st???? s?et??? µe t??
  ß??µ??a??a t?? µ?da? pa?aµ??e? ?a??? t?? ?e?????
  sa? µ?a ?atast??f??? p?e??? t?? ?ata?a??t?sµ??,
  p?? e?spe??e? a?s??µata a?ep???e?a? st?? ???a??e?
  ??a t?? a?a???se? ?a ?????? a????? st??
  fa?tast??? ??sµ? t?? p???t??e?a?.
• ?? ??d???? t?? µ?da? pe????????? t?? ???a??e? se
  a?t??e?µe?a t?? ß??µµat??.

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• ? eµf???s? t??? e??a? d?µ?µ???, s?µf??a µe t?
  ?a????st??? a?d???? ß??µµa, sa? a?t??e?µe?? p????
  ?a? a?a?????, ?ts? ? µ?da e??a? ? p?a?t????
  t?µ?a? ?p?? ep??e?t?????ta? ?? e?µeta??e?t????
  s??se??.
• ? e????a t?? µ?da?, ?? a?ta?a???sa t??
  ??????t?ta, d?µ?????????e ap? t?? pat??a?????
  ???????a p?? e??e s?µf???? ?a pa???s??se? t??
  ???a??e? sa? µa??a??? ?a? e?d?t????.
• ?? ?a???st??/t??e? t?? ???t??????? ??a fet???sµ?
  ?a? ?t? ??e? st?? ep?de??t??? ?ata????s?.
• ?? ????????? ?e????? t?? a?st??? ?a? ????t?
  t???s? t?? sa? pa??????a.
• S??a?t?ta? µe t?? ?efa?a????at???
  pa???sµ??p???µ??? e?µet???e?s? e??? ßas???
  ???a??e??? e??at???? d??aµ????, ?a??? ?a? t??
  p?????s? fa?tas??se?? p?? ?????f????? st?
  d?ad??t??.

4. ?st????? ??ad??µ?
4. 1. ?atas?e?? t?? ???e??p?t?ta?

• ? µ?da ????se ?a a?µ??e? ?at? t?? ??a?????s?,
  st?? ßas?????? a????, µe p?? e??f?e???? t??
  Ga?????.
• ?? a?d???? ??d?µa t?? 17?? a???a t?? p???s???,
  ?ta? pe??te??a d?a??sµ?µ???, ßa??? ?e?t?µ???
  a??µ? ?a? µe ??µata ap? ???s? ? as?µ?,
  ?atas?e?asµ??? ap? sat?? ?a? da?t??a, µe
  ?a?a?t???st??? pe??te??a pe???a?µ?a.
• ??? 18? a???a ? ß?s? t?? a?d????? e?d?µas?e?
  ????e t? ??st??µ?.
• Sta 1740 t? ??st??µ? ????e p?? ap?? µe p??t?µ?s?
  sta s????a ???µata.
• ?µfa?????ta? pe???d??? ep???a??? µ?de? ?p?? t??
  a??a??? d?a??sµ?µ???? a?d????? e?d?µat??, ?p?? t?
  t? ????µa t?? Beau (a???? t?? 19?? a???a), ? µ?da
  t?? Macaroni ( ap? t? 1760 ??? t? 1770), t?
  ????µa t?? Dandies (a???? t?? 19?? a???a) ?a? t??
  a?s??t?st?? t?? e?d?µ?t?? sta t??? t?? 19?? a???a.

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• ?et? t? 1890, µ?a se??? a??a??? st? ????
  e??as?a?, ?a??? pe??ss?te??? ??d?e? e??????ta? se
  ??se?? ??afe???, ep?ßa?e t? ep??e???s?a??
  ??st??µ? sa? p?a?t??? ??d?µa p????? ???se??.
• Se ???sµ??a epa????µata (st?at??, ast???µ?a,
  ?at???? p??s?p???) e?s????sa? ?? st???? ?ste ?a
  fa??eta? ? epa??e?µat??? e???s?a ?a?
  ??d???p??????a? µe ???µata.
• ?et? t? 1900 eµfa???eta? ??a p??t? f??? ?
  ?a?a??te?? ?a? e?af??te?? sp?? e?d?µas?a ?p?? ta
  s??t? ?a? ta ???t?µ????a µp???????a t????.
• ??? de?aet?a t?? 1920 d?ad????e t? p????ße? ?a?
  ? ??aß?ta a?t??at?st?se t? ?a?µ?d?t? ?a? t?
  pap????? ?a? ????e p???? a?d???? s?µa ?atate???
  t?? ?????????? ta?t?t?ta? f????.
• St?? de?aet?e? t?? 1950 ?a? 1960 ?p???e ?
  ep??et??? ad?af???a t?? a?d??? ??a t? ?t?s?µ?, µe
  t?? pe?sµat??? ep????? t??? ?a f????? ap??s?pa
  s????a ??st??µ?a, ?pa?????ta? se s??t???t?????
  e?d?µat????????? ?a???e?, ??a ?a ap?de????? ?t?
  ap????pta? t? ef?µe??, ep?p??a?? ?a? as?µa?t?
  st?? p?? p??sta?e ? µ?da.
• ?p? t? 1970 a??µ?, ?? ???a??e? ????sa? ?a f?????
  pa?te????a, a?d???? p????µ?sa ?a? ??st??µ?a.
• ? a??a??? Jean Paul Gaultier ???s?µ?p???se
  ?????? ?f?sµata (d??µa, µet??? ?a? da?t??a) ??a
  pe??aµat???? a?d????? f??ste?, p???a???ta?
  ??t??e? a?t?d??se??, ?a??? ta ????p?ep? ????a t??
  ?p???µe???? t?? ??d??a a??e??p?t?ta?.
• ??t? ? p?? ep?p??a??, ?a???ss?st???, a?d????,
  ?e?st? eµf???s?, ?s?? a?ta?a??? µetaß???? t??
  ??se?? ?a? t?? ?a?a?t??a a??µ? t?? a?d???, p??
  ?????? p???? t?? ap???e?st???t?ta t?? ??????????
  d??aµ?? ?a? t?? t??f?d?t? µ??ad????
  e??a??µe???.

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4. 2. ? ??????? t?? ?a?te??????

• ? Steele, ?e??e? ?t? ta pa?te????a ep???????a?
  st?? ?e?s?a, p??? t? t???? t?? p???st??????
  pe???d?? ?a? d?ad????a? st?? ?e?t???? ?s?a ?a?
  t?? ß??e?a ????p?.
• ??at??????e st? st?at?, e?d??? µe t?? µ??f? t??
  ste??? s?????t?? ??aµµ?? ??at? ?ta? ß????? ??a
  t?? ?ppas?a.
• ?ts? ep???se ?a? s??d????e µe t??? ??d?e?.
• Sta 1740 t? ??st??µ? ????e p?? ap?? µe p??t?µ?s?
  sta s????a ???µata.
• ?at? t? d????e?a t?? ???t?? ?a???sµ??? ????µ??
  ?? ???a??e? epet??p? ?a f????? pa?te????a st??
  e??as?a ??a p?a?t????? ??????.

4. 3. ? ?atas?e?? t?? T?????t?ta?

• ? d?af???p???s? a??µesa st?? a?se???? ?a? ??????
  e?d?µas?a, ??aße ???a t?? 19? a???a, µe
  d?af???p???s? sta ?f?sµata ?a? t? f?????sµa.
• ?as??? st???e?? t?? e???pa???? ?????a? t??
  ??????t?ta? ?ta? ? s???e?asµ?? at?µ???? ?a?
  ?????????? ta?t?t?ta? f????.
• ?? f??? ?a? e?d??? ? ??????t?ta, f????ta? µ?s?
  t?? e?d?µ?t??.
• ? ????????? ?a? se???a???? ta?t?t?ta f????
  d????eta? µe t?? t??p? p?? ??e? ?t??e? t? s?µa.
• ? ???s??, d?µ??????se a?t?pep????s? ?a?
  s??e???e? ?a t? ???e? a??µa ?a? s?µe?a.
• S?µa??e d?af??et??? p???µata ??a d?af??et????
  ???a??e?.
• ?p? t?? a????t?p???s? µ???? asf???a? ?a?
  a???t???asµ?? se pa?a??te?e? ep????, µ???? t??
  ??f?as? se???a????? ape?e?????s?? st?? de?aet?a
  t?? 90.
• ??a e?t?p?s?a?? d?af??? µeta?? a?d????? ?a?
  ???a??e??? e?d?µat??, ap? t? t???? t?? 18??
  a???a, e??a? ?t? ta pa?te????a ????? ts?pe?, e??
  t? ???a??e?? f??eµa s?????se ?a e??a? s?st?µat???
  ????? a?t??.
• ?ta? ? ep??? t?? a??pt???? t?? f???t??
  ?d???t?s?a?, t?? ???µ?t?? ?a? ?? ??t???? t???, ??
  ??d?e? st?? p???e?µ??? pe??pt?s?, e??a? a????? ?a
  ta ß????? ??p??.

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5. ?µf?sß?t?s? ap? t?? G??a??e? t?? ?p?ßeß??µ????
???t?p?? t?? T?????t?ta?

• ?p? t? 1920 ????sa? a? eµfa?????ta? ??p??a
  s?µ?d?a a?d??????? st??.
• ? d???t?µ?a a?se????? ???????, e??e d?aß???e?
  stad?a?? ?at? t?? 20? a???a, ???? t??
  a?a?ata??µ?? t?? ???t??? e???s?a? t??
  ß??µ??a????? ???????a? ?a? t?? ?at???e?s? t??
  a?t???at?????.

5.1. ?? St?? Military

• ?? ???a??e? f??esa? p??t? f??? st?at??t??? ????a
  st?? ???eµ? t?? ??e?a?t?s?a? t?? ?.?.?. t? 1776
  ?a? µet? st??? d?? ?a???sµ???? ????µ???.
• ?? pe??ss?te?e? ta ???t?sa? ??a ?????? a???e?a?
  ??at? ? st?at??t???? ?µat?sµ??, p?? ß??s???ta?
  e????a ?a? p??? ft???.
• ?et? t? 1960 st?? d?ad???se?? ?at? t?? p???µ??
  t?? ??et??µ, st?? ?.?.?., ?p?? f????sa? st????
  t?? ßete????? t?? p???µ??, ????? ta d?a???t???
  t???.
• ?a a??e?t??? st?at??t??? pa?te????a ?a? t???et
  p?? a???????ta? ?at? ????? ap? t?? ?es???µ??e?
  ???a??e?, ??ß??ta? sa? a?d???? ????a, a??? e??a?
  ???s? unisex.
• ?? ?a? ?s?? de? s???ß? ??????e?t???, ????e
  s?µß??? t?? a?????? ??a ?a s???t??e? e????? ?
  ?d?a ?t? ? ??????t?ta ?ta? ????????? ?atas?e??
  t?? pat??a?????? ???????a?

5.2. ? ??a G??a??a ?a? ? ???? ??a t? ?a?te????

• ?? pa?te???? s?µß????e t?? a?d???? e???s?a ?a?
  ?p??a t? f????se, ?e????ta? ????? ??????t?ta.
• ?a?? t? ?t? ta ast???a t?? Hollywood, ?p?? ?
  Marlene Dietrich ?a? ? Katharine Hepburn f??esa?
  pa?te????a st?? ta???e? t???, ?? p?? p?????
  ???a??e? d?sta?a? ?a f???s??? t? ap???t? a?d????
  ??d?µa

11
5.2.1. ? ?e??pt?s? t?? Marlene Dietrich ?a? t??
Madonna

• ? Marlene Dietrich sfete??st??e, ep? t?? ??????,
  t?? ?µ?f???f????? (a?se???? ?a? ?esß?a??) µ?da,
  s??d?????ta? t?? µe t?? ap???t? ??????t?ta ?a?
  t?? ?e?st?t?ta t?? ta?t?t?ta?.
• ?a???s?a?e ??a e?d?? pa??stas?? ?????,
  a?aµ??????ta? p????? ?????? ?a? a?se???? µ??f?
  ?a? ? a?at??p? t?? ?µf???? ?????, d?µ??????se
  a?t? t?? e?d?af????sa ep?d?as?.
• ??t?st???a, t?? d?p?? ???? efa?µ??e? st??
  µ??e? µa?, ? Madonna.
• ?µfa???eta? st? s???? µe a?t???? ??st??µ?, ???t?
  ?a??? µa??? ?te??sµ??? ?????t? p??? ta p?s?,
  a????t? p?d?a, ate???e? t? fa?? p?????t??? ?a?
  e??t??? ?a? ??at? ??a monocle st? µ?t? t?? ?a?
  pa?? t?? a?se???? pe??ß??? t??, eµfa???eta? 100
  ???a??a.
• ? ? Madonna ape????? ? ?pt??? e?s?µ?t?s? t??
  ep??e???µ?t?? t?? Judith Butler st? p??ß??µa t??
  ?????????? f????, ?? p??? t?? ?e?st?t?ta t??
  ????? t?? f???? ?a? t?? a?at?ept??? ????.

5.3. ? ??d?µas?a t?? G??a??a? ??e????t??a?

• ? Katharine Hamnett st? s?????? t??, t?? 1986,
  µe t?t?? Power Dressing, p?? ?at?st?se t?
  ??d?µa ??afe???, d???s? t?? ???a??e??? e??????
  t?? ?atast?se?? ?a? t?? se???a????t?ta?.
• ? ????? t?? ???a??a? d?e????t??a?, e??a? s?et???
  ???? st? ???a??e?? ?epe?t???? ?a? de? ?p??????
  a??µa e????? ap?de?t? p??t?pa e?d?µas?a?.
• ?a?ad?s?a?? ?ta? a?d????? ?????, ta p??t?pa a?t?
  te????? ?a aspast??? a?d???? st???e?a.
• ? e?d?µas?a p?? p??t?µ??? ?? pe??ss?te?e?
  ???a??e? se a??te?e? ?pa???????? ??se?? e??a?
  p??ta ep?s?µ? ?a? s??t???t??? µe t? ??st??µ? ?a
  ?at??e? t?? p??t? ??s?.

12
6. ?µf?sß?t?s? t?? ?a????? t?? ??d??sµ?? µ?s? t??
??d?µat??

• ?? ?f?ß?? µet? t? 1950, e??a? a???µ???
  a???ast??? d??aµ? ?a? ?a??? ta p??t?pa a?d?????
  ????? ?ta? ast???a t?? rock, p????? a????????sa?
  t?f?? t?? ep?ta??? t?? µ?da? p?? ???sa?a? a?t?.
• G?a p??t? f??? st?? ?st???a, ?? ??d?e?
  a?t????f??? ?f?? ?a? e?d?µat???????? s????e?e?
  ap? t?? ???a??e?, a?t?st??fa ap? p??????µe?e?
  ep????.
• ??t?st???a, t?? d?p?? ???? efa?µ??e? st??
  µ??e? µa?, ? Madonna.

6.1. ?? Unisex St??

• ?? ??d?µa Unisex s???a??pt??ta? ta d?a???t???
  t?? f????, p??spa?e? ?a epa?a??ße? t?? ??t?p?a
  ?a? ?a pa???s??se? µ?a e????a ?s?t?ta? ??a ?????.
  
• ?? µ???a?? e??tt?µa a?t?? t?? st?? ?ta? ?t?
  p??sp???se ?a ????e? t?? d?af??et???t?ta sa? ??t?
  a??s???t???.

6.2. ?? ??d?????? St??

• ?? a?d?????? st?? ep?d???e? ?a e??se? a?se????
  ?a? ?????? s?µa se ??a.
• ?? st?? a?t? ???e? s?µa ?ept?, ?ea???? ?a?
  d??aµ???, µ?st???? ?a? sa???e?t???, µe a????st???
  s?????ta p?? pa?ap?µpe? st?? ef?ße?a.
• ???? apa?te? µ?a µ?µ?s? a?se????? ta?t?t?ta?.

6.3. To Gothic St??

• ? µ?da Goth, ?a????se t?? s??des? µeta?? t??
  e?d?µ?t?? p?? a?t?st?????? sta d?? f??a ?a? t??
  ta?t?t?ta t???.
• ?a?a?t????eta? ap? t?? ????a???a ?a? ??a t???
  ??d?e? ?a? ??a t?? ???a??e?, t?? st?? p??
  pa?ad?s?a?? s??de?ta? µe t?? ??????t?ta, ?????
  ?µ?? ?a ?a??st? t?? ta?t?t?te? a?t?? as?µa?te?.

13
7. ??d??? T?µata ?p?d?as?? ?µat?sµ?? st??
?atas?e?? ?a?t?t?ta? ?????????? F????
7.1. ??af???? G??a???? ?a? ??d??? sta ???t???a
?µat?sµ??

• ?? ??d?µa te??e? ?a s?µ??e? t? ????????? f???
  ap? t?? ?????s? a??µ? t?? pa?d???, a??? e??a?
  st?? ef?ße?a p?? pa???s?????ta? ?? d?af???? f????
  st?? a????? e?d?µ?t?? ?a? st? ???s? t???.
• ?a ????ts?a ßas????? t?? a???????s? t??
  e?d?µat???????? ep?????? ?????? st?? pa??a t???,
  e?? ta a????a e?d?af????ta? ??a ?e????te??
  ????????? ?????s?.
• ?? ???a??e? s??d???? ?µesa t?? e?d?µat????????
  p??t?µ?se?? t???, µe t?? ??f?as? s??a?s??µ?t??.
• ?? ??d?e? t?? s??d???? µe ??????????
  ?atast?se??, ?p?? p??ß???eta? s???e???µ??? ??d?s?
  t?? ?a?t??.

7.2. S?µa?s? F???? ??ef?? ??a ??a?????s? ap? t???
??????

• S?ed?? ??a ta ß??f? p?? pa?at??????a?, f????sa?
  ????a p?? ?p?de????a? t? f??? t???.
• ?? ?t?s?µ? t?? ??p??? µe ????a p?? ep?s?µa?????
  t? f???, e??a? ? ap???ste?? µ???d?? ?p?de???? t??
  se a???st???.

7.3. ? ?p????? t?? ?ata????s?? ??d?µ?t?? ap? ta
?a?d??, st? ??µ??????a ?a?t?t?ta? ??????????
F????

• ??? p?e???? t?? ?a???? p???t?sµ?? ep?d???? st??
  st?se?? t?? µ????? pa?d??? (s??????? ?????a?) ?a
  d?aµ??f????? t?? pa???s?as? t?? s?µat??.
• ?????ep?d???? µe s???et??? t??p??? µe ta pa?d??
  ?a? µ?s? t?? d?epaf?? s?µ?t?? e?d?µ?t?? µp?????
  ?a a??????? t?? a?t?p??sd????sµ? t?? pa?d??? ?a?
  t?? t??p? pa???s?as?? t?? ta?t?t?t?? t??? .

14
8. ??d?µas?a, ??da ?a? Se???a????t?ta
8.1. ? ?atas?e?? t?? ???e??p?t?ta? t?? ???????
st? S???e??

• ? ta?t?t?ta t?? ???? a??????, s??µat??eta? µe
  t?? s??e?? epa?ad?ap?a?µ?te?s? t?? a??e??p?t?ta?
  t???, p?? e??a? µ?a ????????? ?atas?e??, ?a??? µe
  d??f????? ?e?a??????? a?ta????sµ???, ? ?s???
  d?af???p??e?ta? ?a? pa???s?????ta? a?t?fat????
  e?d?se?? t?? a??e??p?t?ta? st? s???e?? ?a?
  e???te?a.
• ? ete??f???f???a e??a? ?s????? de??t?? a?se?????
  ta?t?t?ta? sta s???e?a, ? p??sß??? ?µ?f???f????
  af??eta? ?a e?????e? sa? ?????? ta?t?t?ta ?a? ???
  sa? se???a???? p??t?µ?s? ?a? ? ???? d????e t??
  ?at?te?? ??s? t?? a?????? e?e???? st?? a?se????
  ?e?a???a.

8.2. ?te??f??e?des?a

• ? ???? t?aßest? a?af??eta? st? ?t?µ? (???a??a ?
  ??d?a) p?? ?t??eta? µe e?d?µata t?? a?t??et??
  f????.
• ?????? st? d?t??? p???t?sµ?, ??e? ?ate????s? ap?
  a?se???? p??? ?????? e?d?µas?a.
• ?? t?aßest? ep??????? ????a ??a t?? d??at?t?ta
  t??? ?a µetat??p??? t?? a?d???? t??? ta?t?t?ta se
  ???a??e?a, a??? a?t? de???e? s???????? ?a? t??
  p??t?µ?s? t??? se p??a ????????? ?µ?da ?????? ?a
  a??????.

8.3. ?atas?e?? ?µ?f???f?????? ??se????? ?a?
?esß?a??? ?a?t?t?t?? µ?s? t?? ??d?µas?a?

• ??p???? ?µ?f???f???? ??d?e?, ?ataß??????
  s??e?d?t? p??sp??e?a ?a e?f??s??? a?t? t?? ???
  ta?t?t?ta? t???, µe t?? ???s? t?? e?d?µ?t??.

15
9. ???sµ??e? ??d?af????se? ?e??pt?se?? ?atas?e???
?a?t?t?ta? ?????????? F????
9.1. ???ß??µata µe t?? ??d?µas?a t?? ???t??
G??a???? ?e??p???? ?a? ?d???? ??????.

• ?a ???a??e?a e?d?µata t?? ep???? ?ta? e?te???
  a?at?????a ?a? e??????, f?s??? ?a? ?de???????,
  ??a d??s? ?a? ta??t?ta ?a? e?? ?? ???a??e? ??e?a?
  ?a as???????? µe t?? a???t?sµ? ??e?a??ta? ??t?
  ???.

9.2. ????????? ?atas?e?? t?? F???? se ???e??a???
?de?f?t?te? st?? ?.?.?. µ?s? ??d?µas?a? ?a?
?µf???s??

• ? ???a??t??? ?p?????s?, p??ta????? apa?te?
  s?µµ??f?s? se ??p??a ?da???? eµf???s?? ?a?
  st???e??? e?d?µ?t??, µ?s? e??? d?a????? µeta??
  t?? at?µ?st???? d?af???p???s?? t?? ??? ?a? t??
  ?????????? p??sd????sµ?? t?? ?µ?da?.
• ?as??? a??a?? s?st?µa t?? ade?f?t?t?? e?? a? ?
  ?s???? s??des? a??µesa st? ??????t?ta ?a? t??
  ?µ??f?? (e???st???t?ta), p?? ???eta? ?p???e?t???
  ?a?????, sa? ????? ??a t?? ??e? f??t?t??e?.

9.3. ???a??? st?? ?µf???s? t?? ??????? G??a????

• G?a t?? ?????e? ???a??e? µ???? t? 1920 pe??p??,
  ?s??e t? ??t? de? ß?a??e? p?te ap? t??? t?e??
  ?????? t??, sp?t?, µ??? ?a? f????? ?a? ? ?s????
  pe??sf??? t?? ????? t?? p?d??? t??? µe ?µ??te?
  ?ta? ?a??????.
• ? t?p???? ????? ?? a?t? ?ta? ?t? p??s?d?de
  ??µ??t?ta st?? eµf???s? ?a? ???? st? ß?d?sµa,
  a??? ? p?a?µat????, ? ad??aµ?a ap?µa????se?? t???
  ap? t??? t?e?? ?????? t???, d??ad? µ?a µ??f?
  d?sµe?s?? ?a? f?????s??.

16
I. ????S ???????
1. Te???t??? ??a?s?? t?? ??e??a?

• ??ap?fe??ta ?p?????? p????? ep?????? p??
  ?ate??????? t?? ??e??a µa?.
• ? ?????te?? e??a? ?? feµ???st???? ?e???e?.
• ?a??? ? µ?da ?a? ? pa?a???? e?d?µat?? e??a? µ?a
  te??st?a ß??µ??a??a, ??a? s?µa?t???tat?? t?µ?a?
  t?? ??????µ???? d?ast????t?t??, ?e????µe ?t? ?at?
  t?? a????s? µa?, p??pe? ?a ??f?e? ?p??? ?a? ?
  ??????µ???? pa?????ta?.
• St? s?µe?? a?t? ßas??? ep????? µa? e??a? ta
  µa???st??? feµ???st??? ?e?µata.
• ???? ep????? µa? e??a? ?? a???? t?? e?µ??e?t????
  pa?ade??µat?? ?a? e?d???te?a ? ?e???a t??
  s?µß?????? a?????ep?d?as??.
• ? t??p?? p?? e??a? d?µ?µ??? ? ??e??a, µa?t???
  t???? ?a? t?? ep?d?as? t?? s?µe??t???? ?e???a?,
  d??ad? t?? ?e???a? ??a t?? s?µas?a t?? s?µe???
  ?a? ta pa?a???d?a t?? ????????? s?µe??t???,
  ?pt??? ????????????a ?a? ?e???a e?p??s?p?s??.

2. ?e??d?????a ??e??a?
2.1. ????? ?p?????? t?? S???e???µ???? ?e??d??
?p???????e ? ?µ?d?µ?µ??? s????te??? ?at? t??
?p??a e?t?? ap? t?? e??t?se?? ???? ap? t? µ?da
?a? t? ??d?µa d????e ?a? µ?a se??? f?t???af???
??a e?d?µat??????? s????asµ? ap? t???/t??
s?µµet????te?/??se?.
17
2. ?e??d?????a ??e??a?
2.2. ?e??µa S?µµete???t??/??s??

• ???f??sa? s??e?te??e?? ap? 8 ?t?µa s???????.
• ? p??sp??e?a ?ta? ?a e?p??s?p????? ?a? ta d??
  f??a ?s? ???eta? ?s?t?µa ?a? ?? a?t? ?p??????
  t?sse??? ???a??e? ?a? t?sse??? ??d?e? ?a? ??e?
  ?? ?????a??? ?µ?de?, p?? ?a? a?t? epete???? ?a???
  ?p?????? t?sse??? ???? e?????e? (25 ??? 30 et??),
  d?? µ?s?? ?????a? (pe??p?? 40 et??) ?a? d??
  µe?a??te??? (50 ??? 60 et??).

3. S???t?s? - ?p?te??sµata
3.1. ?????s? ?pa?t?se?? Ge????? ???t?µ?t??

• ? ????? t?? e?d?µ?t?? ?? s?µa?t???? pa?????ta
  st?? a?t????? t?? p??s?p???? ?a?a?t???st???? t??
  ????? ??e? ed?a???e? ?a? ?? ap??e?? t??
  s?µµete???t?? ep?ßeßa?????? ?t? ta e?d?µata, ap?
  ta p?? ßas??? µ? ?e?t??? s?µß??a, s?µat?d?t???
  ?a? p??ß????? ??p??a µ??? t?? p??s?p???t?ta?, t??
  ????????? ????, t?? ??????µ??? ?at?stas?.
• S?et??? µe t? a? ta e?d?µata d?µ???????? t??
  ???a??e?a ? a?d???? ta?t?t?ta, fa??eta? ?t? ??
  s?µµet????te? de? ????? s??e?d?t?p???se?, ?
  p??ß??µat?ste?, st? ???? a?t? t?? e?d?µ?t??, ?p??
  fa??eta? ap? t?? ??p?? a???ste? apa?t?se??.
• ?p?s?? a??et?? ?ßa?a? st?? p??ß??µat?sµ? t???
  µ?a s?µa?t??? pa??µet??, a?t? t?? p??s?p???t?ta?.
• ?? t?p??et?se?? t?? s?ed?ast?? µ?da? de? ?????
  s??e?d?t?p???se? t?? ????????? ???? t??
  e?d?µat??, apa?t??ta? ? µe ta?t?????a ?a? µ?????
  µ??? st?? a?at?µ???? d?af???? t?? d?? f????.

18
3. S???t?s? - ?p?te??sµata
3.2. ?????s? ?pa?t?se?? ?t?µ???? ???s?p????
?p?p?d??

• ?s?? af??? ta ???t???a µe ta ?p??a ta ?t?µa
  ep??????? ta ?a??µe???? ????a t???, ?a? a? µ?sa
  se a?t? s???ata?????ta? ?a? t? a? a?t? ta ????a
  e?p?µp??? ??p??a ??????t?ta ? a??e??p?t?ta, ??
  a???ste? e? ???e? apa?t?se??, de?????? ?t? p??? ?
  e????? a?t? e??a? ?ata???? µ?a as??e?d?t?
  d?ad??as?a.
• ?? ?????????? ?µ?de? ?a? ?? p???t?st???? ?st??
  e??a? e?d?? ?esµ???? ?p?d?µ?? µ?sa st?? ?p??a
  ?atas?e?????ta?, s???t???ta? ?a? e?te????ta? ??
  at?µ???? ?a? s????????? ta?t?t?te?.
• S?et??? µe t? a? ta ????a t??? e?p?µp??? ??p??a
  ??????t?ta ? a??e??p?t?ta ?a? a? a?t? e??a?
  ep?d???? t???, ?p?????? a??et?? ap???e?se??, µe
  t??? ?e?te???? ?a e?d?af????ta? ??p?? ??a a?t?,
  e?? t??? µe?a??te??? ?????a? ?a e??a? ad??f????.
• ??t? ? d?af??? t?? apa?t?se?? p?? pa?at??e?ta?
  a?????a µe t?? ?????a, ?s?? e???e?ta? ap? t? ?t?
  ?? µe?a??te??? ?????a? ????? p???? e?s?µat?se?
  st?? ?a?t? t??? t?? ???a??e?a ? a?d???? ta?t?t?t?
  t???, ??a µa??? ??????? d??st?µa ?a? de? t???
  apas???e? p???? ?a ep?d?????? ?a t?? p??ß?????.
• ??et????ta? p?? ep?d??e? ? µ?da st???
  s?µµet????te?, d??ad? a? t?? a????????? (?
  a?a??????ta? ?? a?t?), ?a? a? a?t? e??a?
  s?µa?t??? ??a a?t???, p?? e??µe?????ta? ??a t??
  µ?da, ?p?????? p?????e? apa?t?se??, ap? t?? p????
  ad?af???a µ???? s?µµ??f?s? se a??et? ßa?µ?, a???
  ?a?e?? de? a??fe?e ?t? t?? a??????e? ap???ta.
• S?ed?? ???? ?? s?µµet????te? d????ta? ?t? ?????
  ?a??e??se? ??a p??s?p??? st?? ?t?s?µat??, p???µa
  p?? ?s?? e?f???e? ?t? ? ?a???a? ??e? ??p??a
  pa???µ??? a?t????? ??a t? ???? t?? st?? ?µ?da t??
  ?a? t?? p??ß??? a?t?? t?? ????? st?? ???????a ?a?
  ????? ?ata???e?, ?? pe??ss?te??? as??a?s??ta
  µ?????, se ??p??? s?µp??asµa p??e???µe?? ap? t??
  d?a?e?t??? t?? s?µat?? t??? µe t?? e?d?µas?a

19
3. S???t?s? - ?p?te??sµata
3.2. ?????s? ?pa?t?se?? ?t?µ???? ???s?p????
?p?p?d??

• ?e????? s?µµet????te? t?p??et????a? ?a? sta
  ???t???a µe ta ?p??a a???????? ta ????a t???.
• St?? apa?t?se?? ?e?????e? sa? ßas??? a??a ?
  ??es?, ? ???s?µ?t?ta, ?a t??? p??a??e?, a?
  a??s??? t? ea?t? t??? ?a? t???? ? p??sp??e?a
  d?af???p???s?? ap? t??? ??????.

3.3. ?????s? ?pa?t?se?? ?????????? ?p?p?d??

• St?? t?µ?a t?? a????ep?d?as??, µ?s? t??
  e?d?µas?a?, d??ad? e?? p?ste???? ?t? ta ????a
  t??? µp??e? ?a ste????? ??p??e? p????f???e? st???
  ??????, ? a? a?t??aµß????ta? ??p??? µ???µa ap? ta
  ????a t?? ?????, ??p???? ap??t?sa? µe saf??e?a
  ????? ?a s?eft???, e?? a??et?? de? e??a?
  p??ß??µat?ste? p?t? ?a? s??ft??a? t?? ap??t?s?
  e?e??? t? st??µ?.
• Fa??eta? ?t? ?? d?? s???e???µ???? s?ed?ast??,
  de? ????? s??e?d?t?p???se? t?? ????????? ???? t??
  e?d?µat??, p?s? µ????? t?? e?d??? ???? t?? st??
  d?aµ??f?s? ta?t?t?ta? ?????????? f????, p???µa
  p?? a?t???t?? s?µßa??e? s?ed?? se ????? t???
  ?????? s?µµet????te?, a? ?a? ?? ?e?te??? t?
  e?f?????? ate???.
• ?p? t?? apa?t?se?? p??pe? ?a s?µe??s??µe d??
  s?µe?a pa?aµ?t????.
• ? ?de??????? ?a? ? p???t??? ap????s? t??
  µ???µ?t?? t?? e?d?µ?t??, p???µa p?? de???e?
  ??t??? p???t???p???s? ?a? ßa??? ta???? s??e?d?s?
  t?? d?? s?µµete???t?? p?? t?? e???esa?.
• ?? pe??ss?te??? s?µµet????te? ?????
  s??e?d?t?p???se? t?? ?s?? t?? ??????????
  s?µß?se?? ??a t? p??? ?e??e?ta? ep?s?µ? ??d?µa
  ?a? t?? ????? ap?de??e?.
• ?? ???a??e? ????? ep?s?? ap?de??e? ?t? a? ??????
  ?a ep?t????? ??e???eta? ?a ????et?s??? ??a
  a?d???? ???? ?at? t?? e??as?a ?a? a?t?? t?? ????
  pa???s?????? µe t?? ?????t?s? t?? a?st????
  ??st??µ???.

20
3.3. ?????s? ?pa?t?se?? ?????????? ?p?p?d??

• ?p? t??? s?µµet????te? ??t????e a??µ? ?a
  s?????s??? t?? e?d?µat???????? p?a?t???? t??
  ?p?????t????? (Punk, goth, emo) ta s??a?s??µata
  t??? ??a a?t?? ?a? a? t?? a???????sa? ? ?a t??
  a???????s??? st? µ?????.
• ???? s?ed?? ?? s?µµet????te? e?da? t?? s?µµet???
  st?? ?p?????t???e? sa? ap?pe??a a?a??????? -
  d?e?e???s?? t?? ta?t?t?ta?, ???? t??
  p??sd???????? st?? p??? ??e? ?????e?, d??ad? st??
  ef?ße?a ?a? ???? a?a????????? ?st? asaf??, ?t? µe
  t? eµfa??s?a?? ????µa t?? d?af???? ????ts???
  a??????, ep??e??e?ta? d?e?e???s? ta?t?t?ta?
  ?????????? f????, e?? ??a? µ??? e?f???e? saf??
  t?? ?pe???? t?? ta?t?t?ta? t? ?p?????t???a?.
• ????? ?? s?µµet????te? e?????sa? ?a t?p??et?????
  st? fa???µe?? t?? t?aßest? ?a? ta s??a?s??µata
  p?? t??? p???a???? ta ?t?µa µe ????a a?t??eta t??
  ß????????? t??? f????, ? µe p??? a??a?a
  e?d?µat??????? eµf???s?.
• ?? apa?t?se?? ??a t??? t?aßest? e??a?
  µ???asµ??e?, µe t??? µ?s??? pe??p?? s?µµet????te?
  ?a d???e??ta? ??d?te?a ??? a?e?t??? ?a? t???
  ?p????p??? ep????t???, apa???t???, µe a?s??µata
  ap?????s??, ??p??, a??µ? ?a? f?ß??.
• ?s? ??a t??? a????p??? t?? ?e?µat?? p?? f?????
  ??p??? ???a??e?? ?????, ?s?? t?p??et????a?,
  e??f?asa? t?? ???µ? ?t? p???e?ta? ??a ??????
  e?t?p?s?asµ??, ??a ?a ap?sp?s??? ??a ???µa
  d?µ?s??t?ta?.

3.4. ?????s? ?pa?t?se?? ?????????? ?p?p?d??

• S?µa?t???tat? ?e???? e???µa e??a? ?t? ????
  ap?t??a? ?a a?a?????s??? se ??p??e? f?t???af?e?
  t? s?st? ß???????? f??? t?? µ??t???? (?a? de?
  ep???e?t? ??a t?aßest?), pa?as???µe??? ap? ta
  e?d?µata, p???µa p?? de???e? t?? ?s????tat? ????
  t?? e?d?µas?a?, st?? ?atas?e?? t?? eµf???s?? t??
  at?µ?? ?? ???a??a? ? ?? ??d?a.

21
3. S?µpe??sµata

• ? t?µ?a? t?? µ?da? ?a? t?? e?d?µat??, ?a???
  s??d???e? s?µß?????, ?????????, p???t???,
  a?s??t??? st???e?a ???e? s???et?te?e? t??
  a?a???se?? ??a t? p?? a?t?? µp??e? ?a µe?et??e?
  ?? ßas???? ?a??µe????? t?p??, t?? s?µß??????
  p??spa?e??? ?atas?e??? ta?t?t?t?? ?a? d?µ??????a?
  t?? f????, t?? f???? ?a? t?? ?at?????a?.
• ?e t?? saf? ?ata??µ? t?? e?d?? t?? e?d?µ?t?? sta
  d?? f??a, a?t? de??????, ?p?? ???a ???a p???µata
  µp?????, t?? ????????? ?atas?e?? t?? d?af???? t??
  f????, p?? ?epe??? t? ß???????? f???.
• ?? ??d?µa ??e? t?? p?a?t???? ???e? t?? se
  a????µat???? ?st?????? d?ad??as?e?, µa????
  ???????? d?µ??, a??? d?at??e? t?? µ??f? t??
  e?e???, µe t?? ????????? e???????s? se
  a????ep?d??se?? µ????ep?p?d??, µ?s? t??
  ?????????? ep?ß???? t?? e?d?µat???????? ??d??a.
• ? µ?da e??a? e??e??? a?t?fat??? ?a? d?f????µe??.
• ? a?t?fat???t?t? t?? e?p????e? ap? t?? a??s???a
  µa? ??a t?? e?p??s?p?s? t?? s?µat?? µa?.
• ???a? d?f????µe?? ???? t?? aßeßa??t?t?? t??
  apa?t?se?? p?? p???a?e? t? ??d?µa, ?a??? d??ata?
  ?a ?d???se? se a?t?pa?a??se??.
• S?µe?a ß?????µe µ?a ep??? ?ata?e?µat?sµ?? t??
  t?se?? t?? a?d????? µ?da?, e?? ??a t?? ???a??e?
  a?t? e??a? e??a?a, ???? t?? ?t? ? ?atas?e?? t??
  ta?t?t?ta? µ?s? t?? ?µat?sµ??, pa???s???eta? ?a
  e??a? e?t???te?? µeta?? t?? ???? µe??? t??
  f??et???? ?a? se???a????? µe????t?t??, ta ?p??a
  a?t??aµß????ta? t??? ea?t??? t??? d?af??et?????,
  pe??????a???? ? a??te???? ap? t??? ?p????p???.
• ? µ?da e??a? ????????? ep?p??a??, a??? ???
  as?µa?t? ??????????????. ??e? p??? µe????
  ep?????, ?p?? f????e ap? t?? apa?t?se?? t??
  s?µµete???t?? ?a? ep??e??e? s?ßa?? t?? ?????????
  d?µ? µ?s? t?? d?aµ??f?s?? t?? d?af????
  ta?t?t?t??, t?? f???? s?µpe???aµßa??µ????.

22
??de??t??? ??ß?????af?a

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