Hair conditioner

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Hair conditioner

• Colloids CE 457/527
• Juan Carlos Alva Nieto
• Ken-Tye Yong
• Anthony Rivers

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What is hair conditioner?

• To restore hair to its natural state
• Undo damage by giving better look
• Containing cationic surfactants in combination
  with long chain fatty alcohol and other lipid
  components.
• leave the hair to be soft, shiny and manageable

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Hair conditioner as consumer product

• Safety concern
• Toxicity
• Eyes injuries
• Irritation to the skin
• Colorants
• Visual appealing
• Preservation of consumer products
• Microbial contamination
• Spread of disease

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Hair composition

• Morphological
• Cortex,
• Cuticle,
• Medulla.
• Intercellular cement
• Chemical
• 19 proteins
• Cystine
• Keratin
• Glutamic acid.
• Leucine, etc.

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Interactions of surfactants and polymer with hair

• Three main types of interactions
• Primary valence bonds (ionic and covalent bonds)
• Polar interactions (Hydrogen bonds)
• Dispersion forces (van der waals attractions)

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Emulsions

• Emulsion
• Mixture liquid / liquid
• Surfactant / amphiphilic.
• Water in oil W/O or Oil in Water O/W.

• Microemulsion
• Spontaneous formation.
• Thermod stability.
• High solubilization capacity.
• Clear appearance.

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Microemulsions and foams

• Microemulsions
• Liquid / liquid.
• Stability
• Second surfactant.
• Proteins, glucosoides, lipoids, sterols.
• Size bubble.

• Foams
• Liquid / gas.
• Micronic layer
• Microscopic bubbles.
• Stability
• Second surfactant.
• Viscosity / liquid.
• Proteins (Saponin, etc)

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Reconstructer

• Water-based
• Microemulsion
• Foam.
• Solubilized proteins and amino acids.
• Rebuilding blocks, -hair components-.
• Carry and deposit in the hair surface.
• Benefits.
• Flexibility.
• Repair damage.
• Reduction in splits ends.

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Formulation

• Hair conditioner composition

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Formulation

• Reconstructer composition

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Adsorption

• How the reconstructer works?
• Attachment of the hair conditioner fundamental.
• Adsorption is very important. (large species).
• Low enough molecular weight proteins
• Penetrate and reconstruct hair fibers.

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Detanglers

• Objectives and purpose
• Removes tangles from hair
• Straighten curly and wavy hair
• Able to last for a long period
• Improve the texture of hair
• Easier to comb
• Imparts and glass like shine to hair

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Ingredients used in detanglers

• De-ionized water (94.6 wt)
• 1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) (2.5 wt)
• Glycerin (humectants) (0.5 wt)
• Stearalkonium chloride (cationic surfactant) (1.5
  wt)
• Citrus acid (acidifiers) (0.4 wt)
• Colorants (0.2 wt)
• Fragrance (oil) (0.3 wt)

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Functions of ingredients

• Stearalkonium chloride (Cationic surfactants)
• Positively changed nitrogen atom
• allowed the cationic group to attach negatively
  charged surfaces
• Neutralized the electrostatic charges on the hair
• 1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant)
• Act as solubilizers
• To form better microemulsion
• Thermodynamically stable system

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Functions of ingredients

• Glycerin (humectants)
• Attracted to water
• Penetrate the cuticle
• Stabilize the moisture content within the hair
  shaft
• Soften and swell dry brittle hair
• Citrus acid (acidifiers)
• Dissolve the soap residue on the hair
• eliminate greasy, sticking feeling caused by dirt
  

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Making procedure

• Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W)
• Dissolve water-soluble ingredients.
• 60 water
• Heat Stirring.
• Dissolve oil-soluble ingredients.
• Heat / melt solids.
• Keep stirring -10 / 15 min-.
• Add the remained water.
• Cool, add preservative and fragrance.
• Adjust pH and viscosity.

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Packaging reconstructers.

• Bottle.
• Used for the microemulsion.
• Pump finger foamer.
• Instant foaming action (foam).
• Mixture liquid/air
• No chemical propellant
• PET
• Easy to operate

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Ingredients in Moisturizer

• deionized water 79.03
• hetoxide G-26 3.0
• Methyl Paraben .15
• disodium EDTA .10
• Hest CSO 10.0
• Hetol G 2.5
• Hetol CA 1.5
• Hetamid MA 1.0

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Ingredients Continued

• Glyceryl Stearate .70
• Hetoxamate SA-100 .70
• Cocoa Butter .50
• Hest MS .50
• Hetsorb L-20 .20
• Propyl Paraben .05
• Kathon CG .07
• Glycerol - thickening agent

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Production Machinery
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Process Diagram
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Colloidal Attributes

• Thickness
• Makes hair thicker, fuller looking
• Ability to stay in hair
• Some conditioners you can leave in all day
• Stability

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Design Considerations

• Make hair soft/manageable
• Gives it that shine
• Make hairs all lay the same way
• Makes hair look smooth
• Seals cuticle layer
• Prevents frizzing
• Prevent split ends

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Surfactants used in Moisturizer

• Ability to form micelle
• Hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts
• Form cross link

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Marketing Considerations

• Labeling
• Tells active ingredients
• Commercials
• Shows results of using product
• Different needs for different hairs
• Sum need more moisture
• Some for dyed, color treated hairs

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Packaging

• Materials used
• Post consumer recycled plastics
• Make containers soft, squeezable