4.02 Prepare Fabric

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4.02 Prepare Fabric Pattern for Construction
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Select Pattern Pieces

• Select required pattern pieces according to the
  layout diagram
• Separate pieces. Do
• not trim excess tissue
• paper.
• Return extra pieces
• to the envelope.

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• Multi-sized patterns do not have stitching line
  marked on pattern.
• Mark cutting line with
• felt-tip pen.
• Write your name on
• each piece the guide
• sheet.

Maxwell
Simplicitys Simply the Best Sewing Book
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Basic Fit

• Shorten Method I
• Measure up from the adjustment line the
• desired amount, draw a new line, fold at
• adjustment line, bring adjustment line to new
• line, tape in place, redraw cutting lines.
• Shorten Method II
• Measure up desired amount, draw new
• cutting lines

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• Lengthen Method I
• Cut between adjustment lines,
• add extra paper, extent grainline,
• measure desired amount, tape
• remaining pattern in place,
• redraw cutting lines.
• Lengthen Method II
• add extra paper, measure
• desired amount, draw new
• cutting lines

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Side seam adjustments

• Increase

• Add extra paper
• Measure out from cutting line ¼ required amount
• Redraw cutting line tapering to original cutting
  line
• Add same adjustment to waistband or facing

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• Decrease

• Measure in from the cutting line ¼ the required
  amount.
• Redraw cutting line tapering to the original
  cutting line.
• Remove the same amount from waistband or facing.

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Why Alter Patterns?

• Altering patterns is better than altering
  finished garments
• More accurate
• Better fit

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Fabric Preparation

• Preshrink fabric by washing fabric
• Preshrinking removes some fabric finishes may
  help straighten the grain.
• Wash and dry the fabric as you will the finished
  garment.

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Straightening Fabric Grain

• Clip selvage and pull one crosswise yarn
• Gently push the fabric along the yarn
• Cut along the mark left by the pulled yarn.

Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, Construction
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• Sometimes it is easier to ravel a few crosswise
  yarns until you can pull one yarn off across the
  entire width of the fabric.

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Straightening Fabric Grain

• Fold fabric in half lengthwise.
• Match the selvages.
• The fabric is straight if the crosswise ends
  match are at right angles to the selvage.

Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, Construction
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• To straighten the fabric, pull the fabric on the
  true bias.
• Open the fabric pull the 2 opposite corners
  that are too short.
• Refold to check.

Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, Construction
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Some fabrics cannot be straightened because

• The grain is locked in a permanent position by
  the fabric finish.
• The fabric has been heat-set during the printing
  process.
• Non-woven fabrics have no grain line.

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To Do

• Select your pattern pieces, separate them,
  highlight all pattern symbols and cutting lines
  for your size, write you name on each piece and
  your guide sheet.
• Complete Fabric Facts Activity, pg. 4.02A refer
  to Part 3, Lesson 3 Clothing Fashion, Fabrics,
  Construction.
• Complete Pattern Adjustments activity, pg. 4.02B
  refer to Part 3, Lesson 2 Clothing Fashion,
  Fabrics, Construction.
• After teacher demonstration, complete pattern
  alterations using the quarter scale patterns, pg.
  4.02C D. Refer to the handouts included.
• Straighten the grain of your fabric.
• Complete the VOCATS practice questions for 4.02.

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Work Cited

• Weber, Jeanette. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics,
  Construction. New York Glenco-McGraw Hill, 1997.
• Liddell, Louise A. and Carolee S. Samuels, CFCS.
  Clothes Your Appearance. Illinois The
  Goodheart-Willcox Company, Inc. 1996.
• Soto, Anne Marie. Simplicitys Simply the Best
  Sewing Book. New York Simplicity Pattern
  Company. 1999.