2.00 Working with Special Fabrics

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2.00 Working with Special Fabrics

• Plaids, Stripes, Border Prints
• Napped Fabrics
• Formal fabrics
• Knits
• Leather Vinyl

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Plaids

• Even plaids are the same in both the vertical
  and horizontal directions.
• Use a without nap layout
• Uneven plaids use a with nap layout, so all
  pattern pieces are laid in the same direction
• Use the dominant line for the center front and
  center back
• Match plaid at side seams and sleeves.

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Pin layers together key areas in both directions
so the design matches perfectly and will not
shift in cutting
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Pattern Prep

• Lap stitching lines on pattern pieces
• Trace the design onto the pattern

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Pattern Placement

• Place the pattern pieces on the fabric so that
  the traced design matches the fabric.

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Add interest

• Eliminate some of the matching and add visual
  interest by cutting small details on the bias.

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With stripes follow same instructions as for
plaids
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One way designs should be treated as plaids, use
a with nap layout.
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Border Prints use the crosswise grain. Match the
design at the side seams.
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Napped Fabrics

• Pile fabric has ends or loops of yarn extending
  above the surface of the fabric.
• Terry cloth
• Corduroy
• Velvet
• Velour
• Suede Synthetic suede
• Nap lies in one direction. The texture affects
  the color of the fabric.
• Cut all pattern pieces in the same direction or
  there will be a noticeable color difference.

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Guidelines for Pile Fabrics

• Choose a simple design
• Follow the with nap layout
• Mark with tailors tacks
• Hand basting may be necessary to prevent
  slippage.
• When pressing use a needle board or thick pile
  fabric to prevent flattening the pile.
• Hold iron above the fabric and steam. Finger
  press to set the fabric.
• Fleece cannot be pressed, the iron might leave an
  impression.

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Formal Fabrics silk, damask, satin

• Reflect light differently, depending on the way
  you hold them.
• Use a with nap layout.
• May require a special needle.
• When pressing seams, use steam and finger press.
• Silk will water spot, use only a dry iron.

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Knits

• Use with nap layout, looped yarns reflect light
  differently when viewed in opposite directions.
• Use ballpoint needles and pins.
• Best suited for serger, allows fabric to stretch.

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Leather Vinyl

• Require special tools
• Teflon Presser foot
• Leather needle wedge-shaped
• points
• Rubber cement
• masking tape
• rotary cutter and mat
• Wax chalk for marking
• rubber mallet for pressing areas

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Leather Vinyl - prep

• Patterns with multi seams will make better use of
  the skins
• Drop-shoulder sleeves require less easing
• Double check fit, alterations are difficult
• Layout pattern with finished side up
• Use masking tape to attach pattern to fabric.
  DO NOT USE PINS!
• Use wax chalk for marking

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Leather Vinyl - construction

• Lengthen stitch to 3
• Use wedge shaped needle
• Hand tie seam ends
• Interface as indicated on pattern, use
  interfacing specifically for leather
• Use rubber mallet or clapper for flattening
  seams.
• Lapped seams are suitable
• Use rubber cement to hem garment
• Most leather garments are lined
• Use bound buttonholes button backs to support
  buttons.

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Portfolio Samples Special fabrics.

• Matching Plaids
• Examples of uneven plaids, stripes (even
  uneven), one-way design, and picture of border
  print.
• Pile or napped fabric one example of right
  method, one of wrong method
• Formal Fabrics french seam with lace fabric,
  fabric swatches with picture, information on
  working with silky textured, silk, satin, sheer
  fabrics summarized.
• Samples of seams for knits with information about
  sewing knits.