Definition, Anatomy of Shirt

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Collar

• Definition, Anatomy of Shirt Jacket collar,
  Types of Collar.

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Definition of Collar

• Definition
• The collar is an element that is attached
  (permanently or removable) to the neckline of a
  garment and that can be functional, purely
  ornamental, or a combination of the two. A collar
  can enhance the appearance of a garment by adding
  a point of focus or interest.

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Anatomy of a Shirt Collar
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Anatomy of a Jacket Collar
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Anatomy of a Jacket Collar

• Neck line Line where the collar is joined to the
  neck.
• Style line This is the shape of the outer edge
  of collar or rever.
• Roll line/ Bread line The line where the collar
  rolls over.
• Stand Rise of the collar from neckline to roll
  line.
• Fall Depth of the collar from roll line to style
  line. It falls over the stand.

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Anatomy of a Jacket Collar

• Gorge line Front neck line.
• Lapel / Rever Folded up part of the collar
  falling on the chest.
• Break Point A term used to indicate the point
  where the rever, which is built in with the
  bodice, may start to fold back into lapel or
  where the rever turns back.

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Types of Collars

• Collar can be classified by the following ways
• According to Construction
• Set in / Applied Collar
• (i) Flat Collar This name is given to any collar
  which appears to lie flat around the base of the
  neck with no visible appearance of any roll. This
  collar is attached to the neckline to lay flat
  against the garment rising slightly about the
  neck edge, e.g. Peter Pan collar, Eton collar,
  Sailor collar etc.

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Set in / Applied Collar

• (ii) Standing Collar Derived from Chinese
  costume garments, the standing collar is the
  oldest known collar design. This collar extends
  above the neck seam line of the garment. The
  basic pattern is a rectangle e.g. Mandarin
  collar, Standing Ruffle collar, Ribbon collar,
  etc.

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Standing Collar
Stand
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Set in / Applied Collar

• (iii) Rolled Collar The rolled collar starts at
  the neckline, stands up, and then falls back onto
  the shoulder line. The collar height should be at
  least 3/16 inch larger than the stand so that
  when the collar is down, the seam line between
  the bodice and stand will be hidden e.g. Italian
  collar, Convertible collar, Shirt collar etc.

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• B. Grown on Collar
• This collar developed from the front bodice and
  fold
• back to reveal the facing. It eliminates the need
  for the
• seam between the collar and the lapel, e.g. Rever
  
• front, Oblong collar, Shawl collar etc.

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