A85 Hoof Care

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A85 Hoof Care
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Introduction

• The old adage no hoof no horse is very true.
• As a horse owner, you should pay close attention
  to the care and maintenance of your horses
  hooves.

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Introduction

• The external structures of the equine foot can be
  divided into five major areas the hoof wall,
  sole, white line, coronary band, and frog.
• Each of these structures play an important role
  in maintaining a healthy foot.
• Beneath many of these areas are sensitive
  structures that provide the blood supply, nerve
  sensation, and growth of the hoof.
• In this lesson we will cover general ideas on
  what is normal and how to keep these structures
  healthy and functioning properly.
• A short description on proper trimming and
  shoeing will be given.

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Parts of the Hoof
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The Hoof Wall

• The hoof wall is the hard outside covering of the
  foot that bears most of the horses weight.
• It is attached to the underlying sensitive
  structures and coffin bone by interlocking with
  the sensitive laminae or "leaves."
• The sensitive laminae are located between the
  coffin bone and the hoof wall. It has small
  vertical grooves where the horny hoof wall can
  interlock. This system allows the hoof wall to
  still grow downward, yet still be attached to the
  underlying structures like the sensitive laminae
  and the coffin bone.

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The Hoof Wall

• This is a picture of the horny hoof wall from a
  horse. The white arrow identifies a vertical
  groove of horny lamina that interlocks with the
  sensitive lamina.

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The Hoof Wall

• When the sensitive laminae become inflamed,
  laminitis/founder results.
• The area where the sensitive laminae and the
  horny laminae from the hoof wall meet at the
  bottom of the foot is called the white line.

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Hoof Anatomy
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Hoof Growth

• The hoof wall grows downward at a rate of 1/4 to
  3/8ths of an inch per month.
• Things such as nutrition, breed, age (increased
  growth in younger animals), and season of the
  year all influence the rate of growth.
• The hoof wall has the ability to stretch and flex
  as different forces are placed on the foot.
• It also acts as a cushion, along with other
  structures, to the weight bearing forces placed
  on the limb.
• The hoof wall should be hard, yet experience some
  expansion, particularly in the heels, as the
  horse bears weight.

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Hoof Strength

• Studies have been done to evaluate the strength
  and moisture content of different colored hooves.
  
• The studies showed that the color of hoof on the
  same horse had no bearing on its strength or
  moisture content.
• Studies did show that differences did occur among
  horses, and that some animals with lighter feet
  tended to have more problems.
• This is genetic in origin and does not relate to
  the actual color of the foot. The same genetics
  that cause a horse to have weak hooves may also
  cause those hooves to be light in color.

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Hoof Moisture

• The moisture content of the hoof wall comes from
  internal sources (80) and from the environment
  (20).
• This means that keeping a horse properly
  hydrated, adequately exercised (helps to move
  fluid into the cells of the feet), and on a
  balanced diet are the most essential parts of
  maintaining healthy feet.

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Hoof Moisture

• The other 20 of hoof moisture comes from the
  ground the horse is standing on.
• Horses lose hoof moisture through the surface of
  the hoof wall or out the bottom of the foot.
• In environments that are dry and sandy, more
  moisture is lost.
• The surface of the hoof wall has a natural thin
  layer of hoof "varnish" that comes from the
  periople (a structure just above the coronary
  band) and is carried down as the hoof wall grows
  out.
• Because of environmental conditions, this
  "varnish" wears off in almost all horses to some
  degree. With the loss of "varnish" comes an
  increased moisture loss through evaporation.

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Dry Hooves

• The foot in this picture shows signs of neglect
  and excessive drying. These problems often
  result in cracks forming in the hoof wall.
  Special shoeing and care are often required to
  treat many of these cracks.

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Dry Hooves

• The following suggestions for treating and
  preventing dry feet in a horse focus on
  environmental moisture loss, restoration, and
  retention.
• To help prevent excessive water loss from a
  normal foot, many farriers recommend some type of
  sealant be applied to the surface of the hoof
  wall. This helps to reduce evaporation losses
  from the hoof wall surface. Most recommendations
  state that these sealants should be applied about
  once a week.

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Dry Hooves

• Another very common recommendation, used with or
  without the sealants, is to occasionally have a
  horse stand in a puddle of water. A water trough
  that is purposely overflowed can provide such an
  environment. The water will be absorbed into the
  foot, replacing necessary moisture. If a sealant
  has been applied, most of the moisture will be
  absorbed through the bottom of the foot.
• It is always a good idea to clean a horses feet
  on a regular basis, picking out any dirt and
  debris. Cleaning all parts of the foot, then
  rinsing with water from a hose will also increase
  the amount of moisture the foot can absorb.

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Dry Hooves

• A third method, which is often controversial,
  involves applying a moisturizing cream or oil.
• The downside to these products is that many of
  them should be applied daily and may require that
  a boot be placed over the foot to get the proper
  absorption.
• General ingredients that can help keep the foot
  moist are pine tar, lanolin, fish oils, and olive
  oil. Select products in which these are the
  active ingredients.
• Pine tar products seem to be the most effective
  and generally cost the least.
• Other ingredients like ketones, toluene, acetate,
  and alcohols are commonly used, but are not as
  effective and probably should be avoided.

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Dry Hooves

• Outside of the topical products that are so
  common, keeping the horses stall somewhat moist
  can also help.
• Excessive moisture is detrimental, so there is a
  fine balance between too much moisture where
  thrush can be a problem and a very dry
  environment where dry feet are a problem.

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Essential Nutrients, Vitamins, and Minerals

• The hoof is mostly made up of protein and
  moisture.
• Some reports indicate that certain parts of the
  foot can contain as much as 50 moisture.
• The following are also found in the hoof carbon,
  sulfur, calcium, sodium, potassium, phosphorus,
  zinc, magnesium, iron, and copper.
• Studies indicate that vitamin A is essential for
  normal hoof growth.
• Providing a horse with a complete and balanced
  ration is essential to maintaining sufficient
  levels of the above substances in the horses
  body.

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The Sole and White Line

• The sole is found on the very bottom of the foot.
• It is firm and ranges in thickness from about
  1/4 to about 3/8ths of an inch. The sole actually
  grows and then is sloughed off or worn away with
  time.
• This makes the very outer most surface of the
  sole flaky and dry. The main purpose of this
  outermost surface is to protect the underlying
  sensitive sole that is found between the coffin
  bone and the sole.
• It is not designed to bear weight and should not
  receive consistent pressure from the ground or a
  shoe. Injuries to this area result in bruising,
  abscesses, and lameness.
• The area where the sensitive laminae and the
  horny laminae from the hoof wall meet at the
  bottom of the foot is called the white line.
• It is usually about 1/8th of an inch thick and
  may be yellow in color.

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The Sole

• The black arrow indicates an area of dry, flaky
  sole in this foot that is in desperate need of a
  thorough cleaning and trimming.

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Clean Sole White Line

• This is the same foot from the previous slide
  after being cleaned and trimmed.
• Notice the smooth, glossy surface to the sole and
  the white line (black arrow).

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The Coronary Band

• The coronary band is located just above the hoof
  and is the junction between the hoof and skin.
• The sensitive portion of the coronary band
  provides most of the growth and nutrients for the
  hoof wall.
• Damage or injury to the sensitive coronary band
  will cause defects in the hoof to appear below
  the injured area.
• Evidence of nutritional and other problems can
  also be seen as horizontal lines or as changes to
  the hoof growth

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Care Nutritional Problems

• This is a neglected foot where excessive growth
  has caused the hoof wall to dish and the heels to
  be underslung.
• Notice the abnormal horizontal line (white
  arrows) in the hoof wall indicating nutritional
  disturbances or other problems.

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The Frog

• The frog is the v-shaped structure found on the
  under side of the foot.
• It helps with weight bearing and absorbing
  compressive forces placed on the foot.
• A healthy, normal frog is usually the consistency
  of a rubber eraser.
• An unhealthy frog becomes dry, hard, or shrinks.
  It is not uncommon for the entire frog to
  completely sluff off two or more times during the
  year.
• This most often occurs in feet that are not
  trimmed or cleaned on a regular basis.

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When to Trim

• Many horse owners wonder when and how often they
  should have their horses feet trimmed or shod.
• The answer to this question is not the same for
  every horse.
• How often the horse needs foot work depends on
  the hoof wall rate of growth, the season of the
  year, the wear on the foot, and how much
  corrective trimming/shoeing is needed to maintain
  proper balance.
• The average horse needs to be trimmed about every
  6 weeks. The following list identifies ways to
  determine if a horse needs trimming or
  re-shoeing

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When to Trim

• The shoe is loose or the nails are loose.
• The foot is out of balance.
• There is excessive hoof growth that can over hang
  the shoe.
• Excessive wear is found on the shoe. If more than
  half the thickness of the shoe is worn away, the
  shoe needs to be replaced.

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Hoof Care

• Each hoof should be cleaned on a regular basis
  with a hoof pick and sometimes a hoof knife.
• The foot should be kept clean of caked on mud,
  rocks, and foreign debris.
• Normally, very little of the sole or frog should
  be removed with the hoof knife. Exceptions would
  be the removal of any area of dry, flaky sole or
  frog. Generally, the sole should be removed until
  a smooth, glossy surface is found.
• After cleaning, it is a good idea to wash the
  foot with water. This helps the foot gain back
  necessary moisture.

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Hoof Balance

• Just as your shoes will wear unevenly over time,
  the same is true for a horses feet.
• Keeping the foot in balance is one of the most
  important considerations when it comes to
  trimming and shoeing the foot.
• Notice that an equal amount of hoof wall can be
  found on either side of the middle of the foot
  and pastern region.

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Hoof Balance

• The side view shows a balanced foot where the
  slope of the pastern and hoof wall are about 50
  degrees.
• The angle of the hoof wall also matches the
  pastern angle.
• Angles that are steeper or more sloping will
  cause abnormal hoof growth and balance problems.

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Picking Up a Front Leg

• Quietly approach the horse from its head. Place
  the inside hand on the shoulder region.

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Picking Up a Front Leg

• With the outside hand, move from the top of the
  limb down to the fetlock/pastern region.

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Picking Up a Front Leg

• Push the weight of the horse off the limb with
  the hand on the shoulder, and at the same time,
  pick up the foot.

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Picking Up a Front Leg

• Once the foot is picked up, it can be placed
  between the knees. Crouching and turning your
  toes in will help hold the limb

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Picking Up a Hind Leg

• Start slowly from the mid-back region. Maintain
  at least 3 points of contact (hand, arm,
  shoulder, and side if possible). With 3 points of
  contact, any sudden movement from the horse will
  push the person picking up the foot out of the
  way. Move the outside hand smoothly from the rump
  area and down the back side of the leg.

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Picking Up a Hind Leg

• The outside hand can be used to rub and calm the
  horse while progressing to the mid-cannon region.
  The inside hand should be brought to the point of
  the horses hip and can be used to push away from
  the horse if necessary.

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Picking Up a Hind Leg

• With the outside hand on the cannon region of the
  leg, the limb can be pulled towards the person
  lifting the leg. The person can then step forward
  and place the horses foot in their lap.

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Picking Up a Hind Leg

• The inside arm can then be brought down to help
  control the limb.

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Picking Up a Hind Leg

• The foot can be cradled in your lap by turning
  your toes in and resting the horses leg on your
  inside thigh and outside knee.

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Common Horse Shoeing Tools
Nippers
Clincher
A Shoeing Hammer
Hoof Knife
Hoof Pick
Hoof Rasp
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Adding a Shoe

• After the foot is properly trimmed, a shoe can be
  placed.
• In most cases, the shoe should be made to fit the
  foot, not the foot made to fit the shoe.
• Using hoof nippers to remove hoof wall and then
  rasping the hoof into balance are usually the
  final steps before placing the shoe.
• Adjustments should be made to the shoe to help it
  match the foot. The nails should exit the hoof
  wall approximately 1 inch above the shoe
  Variations to this depth can occur in weak hooves
  or in special cases.
• If corrective or specialized shoeing is required,
  variations to the above recommendations are often
  necessary.

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Removing a Shoe

• The first step is to remove the clinches using a
  pair of nippers or clinch cutter and hammer.

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Removing a Shoe

• The foot can be held comfortably if you crouch
  slightly and turn your toes in. This will force
  your knees together and allow the foot of the
  horse to be held securely.

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Removing a Shoe

• Start at the heel region of the shoe and pull
  down toward the toe and toward the center of the
  foot.

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Removing a Shoe

• This same action can be performed on the quarter
  and toe regions of the shoe.

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Removing a Shoe

• Once one branch of the shoe is loosened, the
  opposite branch can be worked on.

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Removing a Shoe

• Once both branches are loosened, the shoe can be
  removed. After the shoe has been taken off, make
  sure that all the nails are completely removed.
  The foot can now be trimmed and/or examined.

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Lameness

• There are many different reasons why a horse
  becomes lame. Because of this, even the
  professionals struggle at times with a diagnosis.
• However, there are a few basic tips, that if
  understood, can help even the most casual horse
  owner become fairly adept at detecting a lameness
  problem.

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Tip 1

• Studies show that most lameness problems are
  associated with the foot, therefore, the foot
  should be the first area of focus.
• Realize that 60-65 of the horses body weight is
  carried on the front legs, resulting in more
  problems occurring in the front legs and feet.

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Tip 2

• Conformation (how the horse is put together)
  plays a major role in lameness problems.
  Initially, the following observations should be
  made
• Is the horse base-narrow, base-wide, toed-in,
  toed-out, or a combination of the above?
• Does the horse have calf, bucked, knock, or bench
  knees?
• Are the horses pastern angles upright or
  sloping?
• Is the horse sickle or cow hocked?

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Base Narrow
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Toed Out
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Tip 3

• Observe the horse at rest. Look and feel for heat
  or swelling or the way the horse is holding a
  suspect limb. These little hints will help narrow
  the possibilities.

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Tip 3

• Feel the fetlock joint and sesamoids for heat or
  swelling.

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Tip 3

• Feel the flexor tendons for swelling.

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Observe the Horse

• Tip 4 - Observe the horse at exercise.
  Initially, this can be done first at walking
  speeds, then at a trot or gallop, if necessary.
  Choose a hard surface to maneuver the horse in
  straight lines and then in circles.
• Tip 5 - Observe the horse from behind, side, and
  front. As each foot hits the ground, listen for
  differences in sound on impact. Look for
  interfering, overreaching, and scalping.

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Lameness on the Front

• Tip 6 - A horse that is lame on a front limb
  will
• Drop its head when the sound leg hits the ground,
  and raise its head when the lame leg hits the
  ground.
• While working the horse in a circle, the animal
  will generally carry its head to the outside of
  the circle if the lame leg is on the inside, and
  carry its head to the inside of the circle if the
  lame leg is on the outside.
• Realize that the horse uses its head to help take
  weight off the lame limb.

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Lameness on the Rear

• Tip 7 - A horse that is lame on a hind limb
  will
• Drop its head when the lame leg hits the ground,
  and raise its head when the sound leg hits the
  ground. Again, this allows the horse to shift
  more of its body weight to the front and off the
  lame limb during weight bearing.
• When observing the horse from behind, watch the
  gluteal muscle region of the suspect limb. This
  area will often show a "hip hike" since the
  animal tries to spend as little time as possible
  on the lame limb, and will throw its weight
  quickly off the lame limb.

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Lameness on the Rear

• The circle indicates the gluteal muscle region.

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Final Diagnosis

• After a specific limb is determined to be the
  problem, various other techniques can be utilized
  to help localize the specific area that is
  causing the lameness. These include the
  following
• Using hooftesters. 

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Final Diagnosis

• Flexing the suspect joint.
• Placing pressure on the suspect area or tendon.
• Performing local nerve blocks (should be reserved
  for a veterinarian).
• Radiographs (X-rays), nuclear scintigraphy and/or
  ultrasound (see figures 6 and 7).
• Joint taps.

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Radiograph or X-Ray

• The arrow indicates a chip fracture.

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Ultrasound
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Using Hoof Testers

• There are many reasons to use hoof testers.
• They can help detect abscesses, stone bruises,
  hot nails, navicular disease, and many other
  problems.

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Using Hoof Testers

• The foot should be thoroughly cleaned before
  using hoof testers.

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Using Hoof Testers

• Start in the heel region of the foot. When
  testing for a "hot nail," place one arm of the
  hoof tester on the inside of the shoe and the
  other just above the clinch of that nail on the
  outside of the hoof.

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Using Hoof Testers

• The horse will react by trying to pull its leg
  away when a painful area is tested.
• Move to areas of the quarter, trying to apply
  equal amounts of pressure to each location.

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Using Hoof Testers

• The hoof testers can then be moved to various
  areas of the toe. These are common spots for
  bruises and abscesses.

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Using Hoof Testers

• The same procedure should be performed on the
  opposite side of the foot.

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Using Hoof Testers

• Place one arm of the hoof tester in the middle of
  the frog and the other arm in the middle of the
  quarter or heel region. Pressure here will test
  for navicular problems.

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Using Hoof Testers

• On the opposite side of the foot, perform the
  same procedure.

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Using Hoof Testers

• Place one arm of the hoof testers over the middle
  of the frog and the other on the hoof wall region
  of the toe. This will also test for navicular
  problems.

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Using Hoof Testers

• Place each arm of the hoof testers over the heel
  region of the hoof. Try to place each arm of the
  hoof testers over the ends of the navicular bone.
  This is a third test for navicular bone problems.