Brown Sauces: Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace

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Brown SaucesSauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace Jus
Lié

• This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the
  limit of perfection...-Escoffier, (referring to
  demi-glace)

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Sauce Espagnole

• Generally not used directly but refined into a
  demi-glace or other sauce
• Developed from a French brown sauce by adding
  Spanish tomatoesthe early 1600s
• Brown Sauce, made by reducing brown stock with a
  dark roux and tomato product
• Tomatoes are optional but do deepen the stocks
  color

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Making Sauce Espagnole

• Make a 1 of Brown Roux
• Caramelize 2 Mirepoix or Pinçage (Roasted or
  Sautéed Mirepoix)
• Roast the ½ Tomato Product
• Add the Roux, Mirepoix, Tomato Bouquet Garni to
  5-Qts. Veal/Beef Stock in a Stockpot and
  Simmer 1-2 hrs
• Skim Frequently
• Reduce to Sauce Consistency
• Strain

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Mirepoix vs. Pinçage

• Mirepoix

• Pinçage

• 2x Onion, 1x Carrot 1x Celery
• Sweetness from onion and carrot
• Herbaceous notes from celery
• Light and vegetal
• Luke

• Mirepoix plus
• Tomato product
• Caramelized by roasting or sauté
• More assertive flavors
• Used in brown sauces and stocks
• Vader

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Demi-Glace

• 50 Sauce Espagnole 50 Brown Stock, Reduced by
  50
• May be used as a finishing sauce or (more
  commonly) as a base for other sauces
• Alternate Liaisons
• Arrowroot
• Cornstarch
• Potato Starch
• A natural demi-glace or glace de viande is
  thickened by reduction only (no roux)
• Natural Demi-Glace reduced by 80
• Glace de Viande reduced 90-95

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Reduction vs. Thickening with a Liaison

• Reduction is usually preferred for taste and
  consistency
• Reduction equals a lower yield thus higher cost
• A roux or other liaison increases yield
• Liaisons may adversely affect flavor, texture or
  add additional calories and fat.

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Sauce Consistency

• Thin Consistency

• Sauce or Nappé Consistency

Notice the coating on the spoon
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Making Demi-Glace (Classic)

• Combine 1 quart of Espagnole with 1 quart Brown
  Stock
• Simmer, Skim and Reduce by 50 -90
• Mushroom Stems may be added during simmering
• Finish with a splash of Madeira, Port or Sherry
  (optional)

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Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.1)

• Roast Veal Breast (Ribs) with Mirepoix
• Dégraisser, Deglaze and add all to stock pot
• Cover with cold water
• Simmer 5-12 hours. Depouillage.
• Reduce, season and strain

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Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.2)

• Reduce Brown (Veal) Stock by ¾ or sauce
  consistency
• Requires a stock with abundant gelatin
• aka., Glace de Veau, Glace de Viande

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Jus Lié, Fond Lié or Jus de Veau Lié

• Alternative to a Demi-Glacelighter and easier
• Commonly Used in Restaurants as Demi
• Brown Stock Reduced with a Pinçage (Caramelized
  Mirepoix and Tomato Product)
• Sometimes thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot
• Or, thickened by reduction onlyrequires an
  abundance of gelatin

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Whats Gravy?

• Starch-thickened and de-fatted natural juice from
  a roastaka, jus lié
• In England, just a jus, not thickened
• In New England, a thick tomato sauce as in
  Sunday Gravy
• Some Types
• Red-Eye gravy, made from ham drippings and
  deglazed with coffee (Southern)
• Sawmill gravy, a white gravyessentially a
  béchamel seasoned by the meat in the frying
  processas in chicken-fried steak or a sausage
  gravy (Southern)
• Onion Gravy
• Giblet Gravy, the only reason to eat turkey!

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Sauce TomateTomato Concassée Tomato Coulis

• French Tomato Sauces are usually a secondary
  component
• Classic Italian or Spanish Tomato Sauce are base
  sauces flavored around a mirepoix or soffrito
• Tomato Concassée
• Concasser to crush, break, or grind
• Peeled and Seeded and Chopped
• Raw or Barely Cooked
• Best for In-Season-Ripe Tomatoes
• Cooked
• Slowly simmered for 5-10 minutes THENstrain to
  remove excess liquid (As opposed to cooking all
  the down and destroying texture and delicacy.)
• Tomato Coulis
• Smooth purée strained of seeds and peel
• Raw or Cooked

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Tomato Sauces

• French

• Italian

• Classically thickened with a roux
• Uses a white stock, veal or chicken
• Uses pork bones or other pork products

• No Roux
• Simmered with few ingredients
• Oregano Basil are commonly added

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Improving the Flavor of Tomato Sauces

• Use the best, ripest, fresh tomatoes.
• Or a good canned tomatoie, San Marzano
• Avoid overcooking the tomatoes
• The better the tomato the less need for other
  ingredients
• Herbs, meats, stock, etc.
• Use roasting as a means to concentrate tomato
  flavor and add caramelization flavors
• Balance both sweetness and acidity with sugar and
  vinegar or add a gastrique
• Gastrique caramelized sugar deglazed with
  vinegar used to flavor tomato or savory sauces

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Canned Tomato Products

• Tomato Puree
• Briefly cooked tomatoes and strained resulting in
  a thick liquid
• Tomato Sauce
• Thinner than puree and may have seasonings and
  flavorings
• Tomato Paste (Tomato Concentrate)
• Tomatoes that have been cooked several hours,
  strained and reduced to thick concentrate.
  Generally fairly sweet.
• Whole or Diced
• Peeled, seeded and whole or diced. Uncooked.
• Crushed
• Unregulated descriptionmay have seeds or peels
  and varying percentages of tomato

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Canned Tomato Products cont.

• Sweetness (ripeness) varies
• Salt is added to bring out the sweetness
• Citric Acid
• Preserves and corrects acidity
• Calcium Chloride
• Maintains a firm texture
• too much equals metallic taste and "rubbery"
  texture
• Color is NOT necessarily a good indicator of
  tomato taste. Taste is.

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Quick Cooking vs. Slow Cooking Tomato Sauces

• Marinara

• Ragu

• Quick (20 Minutes)
• Fresh Tomato Taste
• Lacks Complexity

• Long Cooking (Hours)
• Complex Flavors
• Usually Includes Meat and a Soffritto

Originally, a slow-simmered tomato sauce from
Naples. Italian-American Marinara is generally a
quick, fresh tomato sauce or, salsa al pomodoro
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Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Finely Dice Onion and Émincé Garlic
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Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Puree and Tomatoes through a Food Mill or
Passatutto (Removes skin seeds.)
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Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Sweat Onions and then Garlic
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Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Add the Tomato Paste and Sauté (Turns a shade
darker)
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Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Add the Tomato Puree and Season
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Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Simmer 30-45 minutes. Finish with fresh basil
and splash of olive oil. Check seasoning for
sugar, salt, acid pepper.
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Next Weeks Midterm (Discuss)

• Cauliflower Soup
• Each student makes 1 quart using only
• cauliflower, WATER, butter, onion, shallot,
  garlic, thyme, bay leaf and cream.
• Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and Vegetables
• Each student makes 1 quart
• From week ones recipes
• Clam Chowder
• Each student makes 1 quart
• Use a clam broth to make a clam veloute
• Ingredients are limited to clams, clam juice,
  potatoes, butter, cream. Salt and pepper.

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Todays Lab

• Espagnole
• Classic Demi Glace
• Demi Glace (Modern)
• Tomato Sauce, French
• Coulis De Tomates À La Provençale (Tomato Sauce
  with Mediterranean Flavors)
• Chicken Provencale (Poulet à la provençale)
• Miso Soup and Dashi