MUNICH CONFERENCE

1
MUNICH CONFERENCE
Akogenius lineThe Biogenico Chemistry Art

• MASATO TAGAWA

April 20 th , 2009
2
Hydrocolloids BioCol Series
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
Pearling Agents GenioPearl
3
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
GEL NETWORK STRUCTURE EMULSIFIERS
for the development of emulsions with high skin
affinity and exceptional skin feeling.
4
Successful Cosmetics
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
Skin Texture
GEL NETWORK STRUCTURE
Stability
Efficacy
Independent from the HLB of the oil phase
5
Factor for Texture
GNS emulsifier GENIOCARE CES, SB, SY, Q/1
Oil, wax, ester, silicon
Polyol in water phase
Particle Sizes distributions
Hydrocolloid (biocol AX, etc.)
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
6
CLASSIC O/W EMULSIONTHE HLB SYSTEM
Oil phase droplet whit its emulsifier
It needs the right emulsifier according to the
HLB of the oil phase
7
Gel Network Structures of Oil-in-Water
Emulsifiers
below Tc
above Tc
water
water
8
What the gel network structure seems to be like?
We can imagine the sponge like the GNS and the
sponges holes like the droplets of the oil phase
in our emulsion..
In this way a direct interaction between the oil
phase and the emulsifier dont happen. And we
can say that the system is indipendent from the
HLB of the oil phase.
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
9
IT IS NOT IMPORTANT THE HLB
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
WE CAN CHOSE THE OIL ACCORDING TO COST, CLAIM,
PLAY TIME, SPREADING
IN THIS WAY WE CAN CHOSE VEGETABLE OIL, MINERAL
OIL, ESTERS, SILICONS OR BLEND OF ALL OF THEM.
IN OTHER WORDS IT IS NOT IMPORTANT THE POLARITY
OF THE OILS IM USING!!!!!
10
Formation of LC-Gel networks in O/W Emulsions
Fatty alcohols and other lipophilic surfactants
form liquid crystalline gel network structure in
water in the presence of swelling agent. The
swelling agent, such as ionic surfactant, widen
the space between hydrophilic groups of
lipophilic surfactants above phase transition
temperature. Water is incorporated into the
space, that is called lamellar mesophase. Once
the mesophase is formed, it become gel phase
below the phase transition temperature. The gel
phase is called liquid crystal gel network
structure and shows unique visco-elastic
behavior in water.
11
GEL NETWORK STRUCTURELAMELAR EMULSION

• The layers of liquid crystalline phases around
  droplets reduce the coalescence of droplets by
  acting as rheological barriers. The network of
  semi-solid liquid crystalline phases, extending
  throughout the continuous phase considerably
  enhances emulsion stability by slowing down
  movement of droplets. Liquid crystalline phases
  are tixotropic therefore they help to improve
  the spredability of emulsions. It was showed that
  emulsions containing anisotropic
  liquid-crystalline phases supplied moisture to
  the skin three times longer than ordinary
  emulsions. For example incorporating a synthetic
  ceramide into a lamellar emulsion it is possible
  to recover lost horny layer lipids and restore
  the water retaining capacity of the skin. These
  emulsion can be used for the transport of active
  ingrediendts and the slow relase of water soluble
  drugs can controll drug delivery.

12
GgtGGel network structure
GltGNo gel network structure
The rheological property of emulsion is important
to evaluate the stability. When the elastic
element (G) is dominant against the viscous
element (G), the emulsion get back to the
original state against the deformation by a
certain shear. The elasticity of the gel network
structure is related to the stability of
emulsions. Generally the elastic behavior was
not observed by the emulsion prepared with
ethoxylates.
13
GenioCare Series

• GenioCare CES (anionic)
• Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-4 (and) Sodium
  Cetearyl Sulfate
• GenioCare SY (non ionic)
• Sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) Trideceth 12
  (and) Sorbitan stearate
• GenioCare SB (siliconic)
• Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (and) Dimethicone
  Propyl PG-Betaine (and) Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
  (and) Myristyl Alcohol
• GenioCare Q/1 (cationic)
• Myristyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride,
  Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
14
Important remarks

• 1. Mixing phases
• 2. Emulsifying temperature
• 3. Mixing speed
• 4. Cooling process
• 5. De-foaming process
• 6. Adding actives, electrolytes, and pH adjusting
  ingredients
• 7. Termination of emulsification

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
15
Important remarks

• 1. Mixing phases
• Oil phase should be added to the water phase at
  75-80C.
• (In case water phase is added to the oil phase, a
  part of water phase can be incorporated into oil
  phase. It may provide insufficient gel network
  structure.)

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
16
Important remarks

• 2. Emulsifying temperature
• Keep the temperature at 75C minimum during
  emulsification. Emulsifiers (lipophilic and
  hydrophilic emulsifiers) and oil components must
  be homogeneously dispersed in the water over 75C.

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
17
Important remarks

• 3. Mixing speed
• Higher mixing speed (over 3,000 rpm) is
  required for 7 minutes at laboratory scale and
  for 30 minutes at industrial scale (over 150Kgs).
  Emulsifiers (lipophilic and hydrophilic
  emulsifiers) and oil components must be
  homogeneously dispersed in the water over 75C.

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
18
Important remarks

• 4. Cooling process
• After the high mixing, change homomixer to
  paddle mixer (at 60-80rpm at industrial scale).
  In the range of phase transition temperature (TC)
  of lipophilic emulsifiers, the gel network
  structure started to be built up. The structure
  is formed by 50C. During the cooling process, the
  lower mixing speed and slower cooling rate is
  desired. The running water for cooling should not
  be used.

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
19
Important remarks

• 5. De-foaming process
• Hydrophilic emulsifier foams during high
  mixing speed at 75-80C. Under proper vacuum
  condition, the foam is reduced during
  emulsification. At around 40C, most of the foam
  disappear under strong vacuum condition.

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
20
Important remarks

• 6. Adding actives, electrolytes, and pH adjusting
  ingredients
• Actives which is sensitive for high
  temperature, electrolytes, and pH adjusting
  ingredients should be added at below 40C with
  stirring by paddle mixer. Electrolytes and pH
  adjusting ingredients disturb the gel network
  structure, when they are added in the
  emulsification at 75-80C.

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
21
Important remarks

• 7. Termination of emulsification
• The viscosity of the emulsion increases at
  around 45C. The slower speed mixing is desired at
  30-40rpm by paddle mixer. After the de-foaming
  process, the surface of the emulsion become
  homogeneous and brilliant. The mixing is
  terminated at 30C.

Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
22
why the hydrocolloids?
SCHEME OF THE PROCESSTHE IMPORTANCE OF
HYDROCOLLOIDS
GENIOCARE
OIL PHASE
H2O
75-80C
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
VESSEL
23
.because
GENIOCARE (CES, SB, SY, Q/1)
OIL PHASE (OILS, ESTERS, SILICONS.)
H2O
Hydrocolloids BioCol Series
75-80C
Emulsifiers GenioCare Series
VESSEL
24
HYDROCOLLOIDS
Hydrocolloids BioCol Series
BioCol ASHG (Mannan, Pectin, Hydroxyethylcellulos
e, Sodium Alginate) BioCol ASG (Mannan, Pectin,
Sodium alginate) BioCol AX (Pectin, Xanthan
Gum) BioCol LF (Ceratonia siliqua gum, Pectin,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium alginate) . BioCol
LG (Ceratonia siliqua gum, Pectin, Sodium
Alginate)
25
Hydrocolloids BioCol Series
Controlling film forming, moisturizing,
formulation stability and viscosity of creams and
lotions.
Hydrocolloids are much more than thickeners.
They are important multifunctional auxiliaries
in the formulation techniques of cosmetic oil in
water creams and lotions. Together with the
emulsifiers hydrocolloids offer the following
benefits to oil in water formulations

• Film formation of the emulsion on skin
  (EFFICACY!!!)
• Droplet size in the final formulation
• Heat stability of the formulation
• Degree of pigment dispersion
• Rheology of the final emulsion

26
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
GenioTens M
INCI Aqua, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Sodium
cocoyl isethionate, Lauryl glucoside.

• Mildest possible cleansing agent
• Leads natural and controlled re-fattening of
  skin in a short time
• Excellent creamy foam
• Superior skin feeling after cleansing
• High compatibility with other ingredients in
  skin and hair cleansing formulations

27
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
Natural and Controlled Re-fattening Properties of
GenioTens M
28
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
Dense and Creamy Foam Formation Effect of
GenioTens M
29
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
Dense and Creamy Foam Formation Effect of
GenioTens M
30
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
Encapsulation Properties of Amphiphilic Actives
of GenioTens M
Multi lamella liposomes containing 3
Ceramide-III in Geniotens M
3 Ceramide-III in Sodium Laureth-2 Sulfate
polarized light 600 times magnification
polarized light 100 times magnification
31
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
High Tolerance of GenioTens M to Ester Oils in
Cleansing Formulation
Foam structure immediate after preparation
Polarized light 400 times magnification
Foam structure 2 minutes after preparation
32
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
GenioTens M can help to increase the viscosity of
the system.
33
Super Mild Surfactants GenioTens M
34
Pearling Agents GenioPearl
MULTI LAMELLAR LIQUID CRYSTAL DELIVERY
SYSTEM PEARL GLOSS GenioPearlTM
35
Pearling Agents GenioPearl

• GenioTens Pearl Mildest
  cleanser with pearling effect

36
Pearling Agents GenioPearl
The term pearl gloss is used to describe a
soft glossy effect produced by the multiple
reflection achieved by the parallel arrangement
of colorless, transparent and Highly refractory
wafer.
37

• PEARL GLOSS WHIT CERAMIDES

The substance ceramide III encapsulated in pearl
gloss made by Biogenico (GenioPearlTM CER)
attaches itself to the hair and replace the
ceramides lost as a result of environmental
factors. The ceramides form a protective envelope
around the hair that keeps the natural moisture
in. As a result, the hair becomes stronger and
more resistant.
38
PEARL GLOSS WITH SILICONE DERIVATES
The silicone derivative encapsulated in
Biogenicos GeniopearlTM does not exhibit any
emulsion droplets under the microscope. We can
conclude, therefore, that the silicone oil
undergoes interlamellar bonding with the
hydrophobic groups of the liquid crystalline
pearl gloss. If pearl gloss is worked into a
tenside formulation together with the bound
silicone derivative, the latter will continue to
be stably bound in the crystalline layer. No
increased mechanical energy is required to work
in the pearl gloss.
Photo taken under an electron microscope of hair
before applying Biogenico pearl gloss containing
silicone (upper) and after application (lower)
39
PEARL GLOSS WITH OTHER ACTIVE SUBSTANCES
Upon request Biogenico also produces peral gloss
systems (GeniopearlTM) containing other
substances specified by the customer. Combination
of substances are also possible.
Reduction of dandruffs over 6 weeks when using a
shampoo containing GenioPearlTM AD (with
piroctone olamine). Left start / Right after 6
weeks.
40
The results shows clearly that the efficacy of
active substances, sunscreen filter and hair and
skin care substance can be increased many times
over by incorporating them into pearl gloss
substances
Photo taken under an electro microscope showing
the lamellar structure of liquid crystalline
pearl gloss.
In contrast to the pearl gloss generated crystal
wafer of pearlescent pigments, pearl gloss
substances manufactured on the basis of gemini
surfactants consist of a large number of
multilamellar liposome spheres. These spheres
form layered disc shaped structure which,
arranged in parallel lines at the vesicle
boundary, create the characteristic pearl gloss
effect. Like the liposomes, these spheres
constitute stable vehicles for the incorporation
of a wide variety of active substances.
41
In addition to the unexpected beneficial effects
which Biogenicos GenioPearlTM creates by
encapsulating active substances, pearl gloss
contains gemini surfactants which offer
additional technical and dermatological
advantages Reducing the potential for
irritation Rapid and effective recovery of
natural sebum Improving hair volume
42
The liposome-like structure of GenioPearlTM
confers enhanced biological activity on the
active substances incorporated in the shampoo,
giving these substances a high bonding affinity
for the hair and skin surface. Moreover,
sensitive active substances with an amphiphilic
character, such as ascorbyl palmitate, can be
stable incorporated into the pearl gloss lamella
and then transported to the skin and hair surface.
Microscopic picture (100 times magnification,
polfilter with tintplate) shoving the lamellar
strucuture of liquid-crystalline pearl gloss.
The encapsulation of active substance in liquid
crystalline pearl gloss structures thus offer the
following advantages Increased solubility of
even hard-to-dissolve active substance in
detergent systems Heightened activity of the
encapsulated substances enhanced affinity of the
active substances for skin and hair.
43
PEARL GLOSS WITH SUNSCREEN FILTERS
The inclusion of sunscreen filters in shampoo
formulations is important for protecting the
scalp (especially in individuals with sparse hair
growth) against the effect of solar radiation.
But sunscreen filters have another important role
to play here. It is known that the exposure of
hair to UV radiation causes bleaching of color
pigments, especially in the hair tips, due to the
UV-dependent creation of free radicals and
various peroxides. In addition, the keratin in
the hair is broken down by oxidation the result
is damaged hair and split ends. Bogenico offers
pearl gloss formulation with encapsulated
ethylexyl methoxycinnamate (GenioPearlTM OMC) and
ethylexyl salicylate (GenioPearlTM OS).
44
Pearling Agents GenioPearl
LIQUID CRYSTALL DELIVERY SYSTEM GenioPearlTM
45
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
(T40/TN, T40/OMC, T40/BG, T50/LV
and others). Highly efficient micro pigments
dispersions. Easy to use, safe, and less
whiteness.
Commonly used micropigments have to be dispersed
in a very professional way to avoid unacceptable
whitening effects during application. They also
can cause technical problems formulations such as
incompatibility with UVA absorbers,
photo-stability due to insufficient coating
leading to oxidation of vitamins, fragrances...
46
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
(T40/TN, T40/OMC, T40/BG, T50/LV
and others). Highly efficient micro pigments
dispersions. Easy to use, safe, and less
whiteness.
To solve all those problems, UVSperse
micropigment dispersions have been developed.
47
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
(T40/TN, T40/OMC, T40/BG, T50/LV
and others). Highly efficient micro pigments
dispersions. Easy to use, safe, and less
whiteness.
UV-Sperse micropigment dispersions provide an
extensive novel UVA-UVB protection by adding high
SPF values to the sunscreen formulation.
48
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
(T40/TN, T40/OMC, T40/BG, T50/LV
and others). Highly efficient micro pigments
dispersions. Easy to use, safe, and less
whiteness.
UV-Sperse micropigment are extremely photostable,
thus they are safe on skin and do not attack
sensitive raw materials such as ascorbic acid,
tocopherol and organic UV filters having a
benzene ring in their chemical structure (like
Butyl Methoxydi-benzoylmethane).
49
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
(T40/TN, T40/OMC, T40/BG, T50/LV
and others). Highly efficient micro pigments
dispersions. Easy to use, safe, and less
whiteness.
UV-Sperse micropigment are easy to formulate in
o/w and w/o sunscreen emulsions.
50
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
(T40/TN, T40/OMC, T40/BG, T50/LV
and others). Highly efficient micro pigments
dispersions. Easy to use, safe, and less
whiteness.
UV-Sperse micropigment can be formulated in
surfactant and preservative free formulations for
maximum protection of hypersensitive skin.
51
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in UVA protection
in-vitro and in-vivo
UVSperse dispersions deliver not only a high UVB
protection in sunscreen formulations the also
lead to a very high UVA protection, that even is
superior to that of commonly used ZnO.
52
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in UVA protection
in-vitro and in-vivo
This statement has been proven by a direct
comparison between an o/w sunscreen containing a
combination of 7 Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate and
and 7 wt ZnO and a similar sunscreen emulsion
where the 7 wt ZnO has been substituted by 2,8
TiO2.
53
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in UVA protection
in-vitro and in-vivo
The emulsion containing the UVSperse TiO2
micropigment revealed substantial a higher UVA
adsorption than a similar formulation containing
7 ZnO.
54
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in UVA protection
in-vitro and in-vivo
The efficacy of the UVA protection of the frame
formulation containing UVSperse as UVA absorber
has also been tested on 20 human subjects by
determination of lipid peroxides that develop
under UVA radiation.
More than 50 of the dangerous radicals could be
suppressed under the harshest conditions. In vivo
testings provide a maximum evidence on protection.
55
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
56
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in photostability
Commonly used TiO2 micropigment products always
cause oxidizing effects in the final sunscreen
formulation due to insufficient surface
treatment. This can be visualized by the method
of observing a significant color change when
adding the sensitive Vitamin E (D-Alpha
Tocopherol) or Vitamin C Palmitate to TiO2
dispersions.
57
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in photostability
Biogenico UVSperse dispersions guarantee a state
of the art level of surface coating, thus
UVSperse does not form radicals under UV
radiation. Consequently maximum skin protection
can be guaranteed.
58
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in photostability
To proof the high level of quality, we compared
UVSperse T40/TN with a similar predispersed
market leaders dispersions based on commonly used
TiO2. To those dispersions Vitamin E has been
added and the discoloration of the Tocoperol has
been documented after 5 min on the following
scheme
59
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in photostability
Discoloration of different micropigment
dispersions containing 4owt TiO2 observed 5 min
after the addition of Vitamin E
60
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in photostability
We re-produced the test with the most sensitive
Vitamin we know Vitamin C. The same experiment
was done with the oil soluble Vitamin C Palmitate
and once again UVSperse T40/TN did not show any
change in color in contrary to the compared other
qualities.
61
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in photostability
Dispersions containing 4o TiO2 with added
Vitamin C after 5 min observation
62
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVSperse Series
Excellence in photostability
For this report and the above shown figures no
color table was used - the original measuring
cylinders were just photographed and zoomed in
Experimental Design used to determine the
oxidizing effects of the four above mentioned
dispersions
63
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVChem UVChem is a very special chemical UV
filters blend it is a very stable
microemulsion prepared using a special technology
based on the concentrated nanoemulsion concept in
which are well dispersed two of the most
important chemical UV filters at a well balanced
concentration which leads to a very easy
manufacturing procedure to achieve the final
sunscreen products .
64
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVChem It could be used successfully for O/W
sunscreen creams, lotions and milks due to its
easily dilutable property but could be used into
the W/O formulations, too, putting it into the
water phase, of course.
65
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVChem is based on 2-ethylhexyl metoxycinnamate
and 2-ethylhexyl salicilate blended at the
usual ratio they are commonly used in the
sunscreen preparations and it could be utilized
in combination with the physical UV filters to
achieve highest SPF value for the well known
synergistic effect between the two. (our UVSperse
products range are the most suitable for this
purpose)
66
Sun Care Dispersions UVSperse Series
UVChem It was not affected by the usual pH
value of the sunscreen products (from 5 to 7,5)
and it is very useful for the spray formulations
in which could be combined with our UVSperse
T40/BG. (the UVSperse version easily dispersible
in the water phase) and the cold procedure can be
adopted without any problem.
UVChem, INCI 2-Ethyl hexyl Methoxycinnamate,
Glycerin, 2-Ethyl Hexyl Salicylate, Aqua,
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate.
67
GENIOCARE Q1
GenioCare Q1 is a lamellar gel structurizing
ingredient featuring a combination of myristyl
alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate and
behentrimonium chloride for personal care
products requiring high-performance conditioning.
Myristyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate citrate
function as an emulsion stabilizer, binder,
viscosity increasing agent and opacifying agent.


68
GENIOCARE Q1
Behentrimonium chloride is the quaternary
compound providing anti-static properties and
super conditioning benefits for both body and
hair. GenioCare Q1 demonstrates superior
conditioning benefits of in both leave-on and
rinse-off applications on the skin and hair. The
ingredient is suitable for treatment applications
targeting damaged and chemically treated hair. In
rinse-off hair applications, GenioCare Q1
delivers a soft feel and allows for effortless
wet and dry combing. Furthermore, GenioCare Q1
controls static electricity during dry season.


69
GENIOCARE Q1
APPLICATIONS Conditioning shampoos, scalp
moisterizers, deep conditioning masks, cream
rinses conditioners, leave-on conditioners,
treatments, conditioning styling lotions, body
shampoo, body cream and body conditioners


70
GENIOCARE Q1
Components MYRISTYL ALCOHOL CAS Number 112-72-1
EINECS Number 204-000-3 GLYCERYL STEARATE
CITRATE CAS Number 55840-13-6, 86418-55-5 EINECS
Number 259-855-5 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE CAS
Number 17301-53-0 EINECS Number
241-327-0 Specification Appearance (25C)
Solid / Flakes Odour Characteristic pH value
(sol. 2) 3,0 5,0


71
FORMULATIONS Sunscreen Cream Wt. Phase
A 1.Myristyl alcohol (and) Behentrimonium
Chloride (and) Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.0
GenioCare Q1 2. Glyceryl Stearate 1.0 3.
Behenyl Alcohol 4.0 4. Hydrogenated Polydecene
2.0 5. Ethylhexyl Palmitate 5.0 6.
Cyclomethicone 6.0 7. Octyl Methoxycinnamate
7.5 8. Propylparaben 0.1 Phase B 9.
Methylparaben 0.2 10. Phenoxy Ethanol
0.5 11. Butylene Glycol 5.0 12. Hydroxyethyl
Cellose 0.3 13.Butylene Glycol (and) Titanium
Dioxide (and) PVP (and) Glycerol (and) Alumina
5.0 UV-Sperse T40/BG-P 14. Water
60.4


72
GENIOCARE Q1
Procedure 1. Weigh accurately part A and part
B. 2. Heat A and B to 80C and dissolve 3. Add A
to B while mixing at 80C and homoginize 4. While
stirring, cool to 35C. Stop stirring. Attributes
Moisturizing Smooth after feel