Super Dispersible Pigments for Color Cosmetics

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Super Dispersible Pigmentsfor Color Cosmetics
David Schlossman Yun Shao, Ph.D. Kobo
Products, Inc.
Color Cosmetics Summit 2003 Montréal, Québec
October 20-22, 2003
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Outline

• Cosmetic Pigments and Fillers
• Identification
• General characteristics
• Surface treatments for pigments
• Super dispersible treatments
• Crosspolymer
• Polyethersilane
• Branched Dimethicone
• Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer
• Summary

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Cosmetic Pigments and Fillers

• Pigments
• - Silicates talc, mica, sericite, ultramarine
• - Metal oxides iron oxides, TiO2, ZnO
• - Metal hydroxides iron, chromium
• - Composite titanated mica
• - Organic Lakes
• Other Fillers Powders
• - Starch, cellulose, polymers, metal soaps,
  boron nitride
• - Silica

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General Characteristics

• Properties
• - Fine powder, agglomerated
• - Hydrophilic
• - Surface active
• Problems
• - Difficult to disperse in media
• - Re-agglomeration of particles is common
• - Color development when finished product is
  applied
• - Decomposition of other ingredients gives
  undesirable
• colors and / or odors

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Surface Treatment Pre-Wetting of the Pigment
Untreated
Treated
A
B
15nm TiO2 45 Treatment Methicone (B
D) Vehicle Cyclopentasiloxane Dispersant 10
KF-6017 (C D) note in mix A, only 33 TiO2
was used (maximum amount possible)
w/o dispersant
Chunky paste
Viscous slurry
C
D
Easy handling Better dispersion
w/ dispersant
Chunky paste
Fluid
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Surface Treatment of Pigments and Fillers

• Provides physical and chemical stability
• Modifies pigment surface to hydrophobic
  and/or lipophilic
• Pre-wets the pigment surface, enhances flow
  characteristics and stability in the vehicle
• Decreases the adsorption of the dispersant
• Improves wear / tactile properties
• Added skin benefits in some cases

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Popular Treatments and Their Drawbacks
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Super Dispersible Pigments
1. Crosspolymer Treatment
Balanced Properties
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Crosspolymer Treatments
Titanate reacts and catalyzes silicone compounds

Alkoxysilane Perfluoro Alkoxysilane Methicone Dime
thicone
Crosslinked coating on pigment
pigments
ITT
US Provisional patent application No.
60,472,527

• Results
• Hydrophobicity comparable to silane and
  methicone treatments
• Stable over a pH range of 2 - 9

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Crosspolymer Treatments - Structure

• First two commercial lines
• ITT/TCS Crosspolymer
• ITT/Methicone Crosspolymer
• INCI names are pending

Kobo codes TTS ITT / Silane ( R
Caprylyl) TTM ITT / Methicone ( R Methyl)
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ITT/TCS Crosspolymer Treatment
Viscosity of Iron Oxides premix

73 in Cyclopentasiloxane
75 in Mineral Oil
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ITT/TCS Crosspolymer in C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Viscosity of TiO2 CR-837 premix at 75 solids
Out of scale
Dispersant 1.5 Polyhydroxystearic acid
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ITT/Methicone Crosspolymer - H2 Potential
Treatment of TiO2 CR-837
A
C

• ITT / Methicone Crosspolymer treatments are
  hydrophobic with lower hydrogen potential
• Hydrogen potential reduction is even more
  significant on micronized TiO2

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Crosspolymer Treatment - Color Stability
The color shifts because it is difficult to react
silane completely during production. The
continuation of the reaction causes the pigment
to agglomerate on storage.
Colorimetric Analysis of Color Shift of
TiO2 CR-837
Test conditions 1 month _at_ 50C Preparation of
sample Tint strength was measured with a
Hoover Muller

• Silane-treated TiO2 becomes darker and redder
  over time
• ITT/Silane-treated TiO2 is more color-stable

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Super Dispersible Pigments
2. Polyether Alkoxysilane Treatment
Hydrophilic coating
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Hydrophilic treatment - Structure
INCI name (proposed) PEG-8 Triethoxysilane
Kobo code SW
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PEG-8 Triethoxysilane Treatment in H2O
Immediately after mixing
After 30 seconds
After 10 minutes
non-treated treated
non-treated treated
non-treated treated
Mixed 2 grs of TiO2 CR-837 in 50 ml H2O
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PEG-8 Triethoxysilane Treatment in H2O
Viscosity of metal oxide pigments premixes at 65
solids.
Iron Oxide Black C33-5198
TiO2 CR-837
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PEG-8 Triethoxysilane Treatment in H2O
15 nm Hydrophilic TiO2
Viscosity of premix at 42 solids
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Super Dispersible Pigments
3. Branched Dimethicone Treatment
Novel Multimedia Coating
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Branched Dimethicone Treatment - Structure
pigment

INCI name Dimethicone
Kobo code BS

• Branched structure increases dispersion stability
• No Hydrogen potential

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Dimethicone Treatment in Isohexadecane
Viscosity of TiO2 CR-837 premix at 75 solids
Out of scale
MS Methicone BS Dimethicone Silane
Triethoxy Caprylsilane ITT Isopropyl Titanium
Triisostearate TTM ITT/Methicone
Crosspolymer TTS ITT/TCS Crosspolymer
Dispersant 2.5 PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone
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Dimethicone Treatment in Cyclopentasiloxane
Viscosity of TiO2 CR-837 premix at 75 solids
MS Methicone BS Dimethicone Silane
Triethoxy Caprylsilane ITT Isopropyl Titanium
Triisostearate TTM ITT/Methicone
Crosspolymer TTS ITT/TCS Crosspolymer
Dispersant 2.5 PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone
from SF1528
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Dimethicone Treatment in Cyclopentasiloxane
Viscosity of TiO2 CR-837 premix at 75 solids
MS Methicone BS Dimethicone Silane
Triethoxy Caprylsilane ITT Isopropyl Titanium
Triisostearate TTM ITT/Methicone
Crosspolymer TTS ITT/TCS Crosspolymer
Dispersant 2.5 of Bis-PEG/PPG 14/14
Dimethicone (Abil EM 97)
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Branched Dimethicone Treatment for Ester
Problem Poor dispersiblity in ester Solution
Crosspolymer treatment
Viscosity of 75 TiO2 Premix in C12-15 Alkyl
Benzoate (Dispersant 1.5 of
polyhydroxystearic acid)
ITT/Dimethicone Crosspolymer
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Dispersibility in Other Media
Viscosity of TiO2 CR-837 premix at 75 solids
2 BS 2 TTBS
ITT/Dimethicone treatment retains its
dispersibility in hydrocarbon and cyclomethicone
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Super Dispersible Pigments
4. Acrylate / Silicone Copolymer Treatment
Enhanced Wetting
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Acrylate/Silicone Copolymer Treatment
Alkyl
INCI Cyclomethicone (and) Acrylates/Ethylhexyl
Acrylate/Dimethicone Methylacrylate Copolymer

• Physical deposition and bonding to the treated
  and untreated sites.
• Dual treatment to enhance wetting.

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Acrylate/Silicone Copolymer in Cyclopentasiloxane
Viscosity of treated TiO2 CR-837 premix at 75
solids, with 3 Acrylate/Silicone Copolymer as a
dual treatment.
Out of scale
Dispersant 2.5 PEG/PPG 20/15 Dimethicone
from SF1528
Dispersant 2.5 Bis-PEG/PPG 14/14
Dimethicone (Abil EM 97)
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Formulary
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Summary

• Popular surface treatments improve wetting of
  pigments, but the amounts are media specific, and
  they have inherent drawbacks.
• Super Dispersible Pigments can be optimized to
  improve the wetting of pigments in multimedia
  with minimal negatives.
• They and other dual treatments will become
  standard for the next generation of surface
  treatment pigments, because formulators can
  obtain multiple benefits from the same treatment.

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Acknowledgements

• Scott Holzapfel, Eric Smith and Pascal Delrieu
  for their support by making the formulations and
  aid with the presentation.

This presentation is available for download and
view on our web site (www.koboproducts.com).
Formulations described here are fully listed in
the downloadable version.
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ITT/TCS Crosspolymer Treatment Gel Foundation
in Cyclopentasiloxane
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ITT/TCS Crosspolymer Treatment Gel Foundation
in Isododecane
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Acrylic Silicone Dual Treatment SPF 44 liquid
foundation