Unit Two

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(No Transcript)
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?2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
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Textiles Fibers and Fabrics

• The Fiber Industry
• History and Development
• Organization and Operation
• Merchandising and Marketing
• Trends in the Fiber Industry
• The Textile Fabric Industry
• History and Development
• Organization and Operation
• Merchandising and Marketing
• Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry

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The Fiber Industry

• Fibers are the extremely fine, hair like strands
  almost invisible to the human eye, the smallest
  element of a fabric.
• The market breaks down into two groups
• Natural fibers
• Manufactured fibers

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Natural Fibers

• Cotton Absorbs and dries quickly, is the most
  widely used of all natural fibers, and is good
  for warm weather clothing

• Wool Absorbs and dries more slowly than cotton,
  but the natural crimping lends itself to
  insulating against the cold

• Silk Its luxurious feel and breathable quality,
  can be worn year round

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Natural Fibers

• Linen Absorbs and dries quickly like cotton, but
  wrinkles and is harder to iron than cotton

• Ramie A linen like fabric, is inexpensive and
  well suited to warm weather apparel

• Hemp Formerly used for agricultural uses (rope,
  canvas and lamp oil) is now being used for
  garments and bed linens

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Manufactured Fibers
Manufactured Fibers

• Cellulose Fibrous substance found in the natural
  fibers of plants
• Minimal chemical steps are employed to create
  cellulose-based fibers such as
• Rayon (1910)
• Acetate (1924)

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Manufactured Fibers

• Non-Cellulose fibers Use petroleum, coal, gas,
  water, and air to create the fiber
• These fibers are combined by chemists into
  polymers such as
• Nylon (1938)
• Acrylic (1950)

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Microfibers

• One of the most important technological
  breakthroughs in recent years occurred in 1989

• Du Pont produced a fiber two to three times
  smaller than a human hair, the thinnest and
  finest of all manufactured fibers

• With the texture of silk or cashmere, wrinkle
  resistance, and machine washable qualities
  microfiber quickly became available in nylon,
  acrylic, and polyester

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Microfibers
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Fiber Distribution
Three ways fiber producers sell their goods

• Unbranded No restrictions on end use, nor
  implied performance

• Branded or trademarked Fiber quality guaranteed,
  end use of fiber (fabric) not

• Trademarks Can only be used if the
  manufacturers fabrics or end products pass tests
  set up by the fiber producer

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Organization and Operation

• Natural fibers produced domestically are cotton
  and wool
• Cotton is sold in local markets (Southeast,
  Mississippi Delta, Texas panhandle and the
  Southwest) while wool is sold in a central market
  in Boston
• Manufactured fibers are made all over the country
  and sold by the producing plant

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Advertising Fibers

• Important for both natural and manufactured
  fibers for persuading manufacturers to choose a
  fabric
• Manufactured fiber producers campaign more
  heavily than natural fiber producers

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Advertising Fibers

• She has it! Du Pont, the manufacturers of Lycra,
  features denim jeans that have Lycra.

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Advertising Fibers

• Advertising, in co-operation with manufacturers,
  benefits both primary and secondary industries

• Greater customer awareness allows faster
  integration of new fibers into the public
  conscious
• Retailers promote the goods that fiber producers
  subsidize advertising costs for

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History and Developmentof Textile Fabric Industry

• First mechanized spinning process developed in
  England in the 18th century. Fibers could now be
  twisted into yarn at a rapid pace.
• First U.S. yarn mill was built in Pawtucket,
  Rhode Island, 1790.
• Because of higher demand, yarn mills needed
  faster weaving, hence the first power loom in
  America in 1814.
• The industry grew rapidly, with demand for goods
  far exceeding supply.

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Production of Fabrics

• Begins with the creation of yarn from fiber
• Fibers are first twisted or spun into the yarn
• Yarns are then knitted or woven into greige
  goods, or unfinished fabrics

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Textile Converters

• Buy greige goods from mills and finish the fabric
• Sell to manufacturer who uses it for the
  secondary market
• Must be on top of trends and work quickly

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Fiber Producers

• Works 18 months to two years out, while the
  fabric makers work one year out
• Color is the most important variable, but texture
  and fabrication play large roles
• Fabric producers also supply garment hang tags
  and care labels

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Environmental Issues
Recycling

• Rhovyl French company, creates RhovylEco
  apparel fibers from recycled plastic water
  bottles
• Wellman Inc. Recycles 2.5 billion plastic
  bottles annually to create their fibers
• The U.S. floor covering industry responded by
  collecting used carpets and researching ways to
  recycle them
• The American Textile Manufacturers Institute
  (ATMI) launched an environmental protection
  program called E3 (Encouraging Environmental
  Excellence) in 1992

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Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry

• High-tech fabrics are constructed, finished, or
  processed to create innovative, unusual, or hard
  to achieve qualities not normally available
• Bright futures lie ahead for these fabrics in
  activewear, rainwear, all weather wear, swimwear,
  protective clothing, heat and fire protection,
  and chemical protection
• Even designers Alexander McQueen, Helmut Lang,
  and Miuccia Prada use innovative fibers and
  closures on their runway clothing

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Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry

• Imports of apparel and textiles into the U.S.
  doubled from 1980 to 1986
• But since the WTO went into effect in 1995, U.S.
  imports of textiles and apparel have increased
  90
• As cheap imports flood the market, domestic
  textiles mills have restricted their production
  of apparel fabrics and gone into the production
  of industrial and household goods

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Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry

• The textile industry has nearly tripled its
  exports over the past decade, exporting 20 of
  its outputroughly 16 billion a year
• However, they must meet the ISO 9000 standards,
  international criteria designed to assess quality
  management
• U.S. companies must be ISO certified to export to
  European companies

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Greater Diversification of Products

• A bright spot for the domestic textile market are
  GEOTEXTILES, manufactured permeable textiles used
  for reinforcing or stabilizing civil engineering
  projects

• Kevlar and Tyvek are industrial fabrics used for
  diverse applications from book covers to wrapping
  houses to prevent moisture penetration

• Teflon, the non-stick cooking surface, is an
  industrial protective coating now used in
  garments to protect delicate fabrics

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Government Regulations

• Creates a few large producers
• Encourages higher efficiency and recycling
• Will promote new processes to recover and
  recycle chemicals, fibers and dyes
• Results in production of fibers with more
  ecological sensitivity
• Encourages transfer printing to reduce dye house
  stream pollution
• Increasingly protects and advises consumers

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New Technology in Equipment

• Quick response uses electronic data to shorten
  the time between placement of order and delivery
  of goods
• Bar codes help reduce inventory costs, warehouse
  time, forced markdowns and stock outs
• Automated data transmittal has become the
  industry standard
• The day of the fully automated textile plant is
  not far away

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New Technology in Equipment

• The production of textiles