Textile Materials

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Textile Materials Un Spun
Improvements in new materials, processes and
finishes are always being developed to meet the
needs of consumers. This Un Spun work sheet
will help you understand more about the range of
natural and manufactured fibres improving your
knowledge of fabric structure, finish, properties
and manufacture.
Polymers Fibres Microfibres
Polymers Polymer combination of large molecules
(these molecules are made from a chain of
smaller repeating chemical units called monomers)
Natural Polymers
Regenerated polymers
Synthetic polymers
Short fibres must be combed, lined up and
twisted to make longer, usable lengths. Vegetable
fibres Cotton, Linen (Cellulose) Animal fibres
Wool (Keratin) Hair fibres Cashmere (Keratin)
Natural fibres that need to be processed
manufactured Viscose and Modal made from the
cellulose in wood pulp. It is dissolved in
chemicals, pushed through tiny holes in a
spinneret into an acid bath, producing a
continuous filament
Manufactured from petrochemicals by the
polymerisation process to produce long chains of
linear fibre polymers. These are melted and
pushed through spinnerets forming continuous
filaments of synthetic fibre. Acrylic, Elastane
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Fibre Fibres are very fine textile raw
materials. They are flexible and have a high
ratio of length over thickness. Fibres are
either natural or manufactured. Natural Staple
Fibres usually very short in length e.g. a few
mm (cotton linters) or a metre as in some
linen. Synthetic Continuous Filament Fibres
Manufactured to an indefinite length, usually the
whole length of the yarn Natural Continuous
filament fibres As long as one kilometre when
taken for a silk cocoon
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• Microfibre
• Microfibre technology combines a high number of
  very fine fibres into one yarn of one decitex or
  less.
• 10km of filament weigh one gram or less.
• A microfibre is between 60 and 100 times finer
  than a human hair. Microfibres can be
• manufactured from polyester, polyamide or acrylic
• blended with other synthetic fibres or with
  natural fibres
• used in fabrics that have an enormous variety of
  appearances and end uses
• used in smart and technical fabrics for active
  wear, all-weather wear and for a range of
  industrial uses

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Vegetable Fibres Cotton, Linen and Sisal are all
vegetable fibres.

• Cotton comes from natural cellulose in the seed
  of the cotton plant. It is like a flat hollow
  tube with a natural twist in it and is produced
  as staple fibre.
• Cotton is very absorbent and can hold 65 of its
  own weight with out dripping
• It is non-static because it always contains some
  moisture
• It is naturally breathable, soft to handle, has
  good drape and dries slowly
• It has good strength, abrasion, resistance and
  durability
• It has poor elasticity and creases easily
• It is biodegradable and recyclable
• Typical cotton fabrics include calico, corduroy,
  denim, gingham and terry towelling. It is used
  for bed sheets, curtains, towels, shirts,
  underwear, jeans, tents, work wear etc.
• The performance can be improved through finishing
• Mercerising for higher strength and lustre
• Synthetic resin treatment for non-iron, crease
  resist
• Stain resist using Teflon or silicone

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• Animal Fibres
• Wool, Cashmere and Silk, are all examples of
  animal fibres
• Wool comes from the fleece of sheep. It is
  produced as a staple fibre. Microscopes show us
  that the fibre has
• an outer layer of scales called the cuticle,
  making the fibres interlock during manufacture
• an inside core like a tiny cable, called the
  cortex, giving strength.
• The cortex is made up of millions of long cells
  held together by a strong natural binding
  material. In between these two layers are
  thousands of little sealed-in air bubbles, making
  the wool proof against heat, cold and damp. This
  three-in-one combination and interlocking fibre
  of great strength with built-in insulation is
  what man made synthetic fibre have never been
  able to imitate.
• Wool is hydrophilic can absorb 1/3 or its
  weight in water
• Naturally breathable rapidly absorbs moisture
  vapour
• Hydrophobic repels raindrops
• Good crease resistance and 40 natural elasticity
  stretch
• Is biodegradable and recyclable
• Typical wool fabrics are felt, herringbone,
  flannel, tartan, and tweed.

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• Natural Polymers
• Viscose, Modal and Acetate are all natural
  polymers.
• Viscose is a natural cellulose made from wood
  pulp of Pine or Eucalyptus trees, it is produced
  as staple and filament yarns. Viscose properties
  are
• More absorbent than cotton non static
• Naturally breathable, absorbing 11 water vapour
• Fine, soft handle with good drape
• Not very warm, low ability to trap air
• Low strength, low durability - Can tear when wet
• Creases easily, poor elasticity
• Biodegradable and recyclable, inexpensive
• Typical fabrics include lustrous crepe fabrics
  from filament and faux cotton, linen and wool
  type fabric from staple.
• Improved performance achieved through finishing
  can be
• Synthetic resin treatment to reduce shrinking and
  creasing but absorbency is reduced
• Wide range of textures and crimping can be applied

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• Synthetic Polymers
• Acrylic, PVC, elastane, nylon and polyester are
  all synthetic polymers.
• Acrylic is made from petrochemicals. It is
  inexpensive to manufacture, can be a filament or
  spun fibre and can also be spun as a microfibre.
  Its properties are
• Low absorbency fast drying but prone to static
• Good strength, crease resistant
• Soft wool-like handle, with good drape
• Warm, easy care
• Thermoplastic, sensitive to steam and heat, can
  result in shrinkage
• Non-renewable resource
• Acrylic can be blended with wool or viscose for
  winter fabrics and cotton, linen or silk for
  summer fabrics. Typical end uses might be fluffy
  knitting yarns, fake fur and fleece fabrics,
  blankets, curtains, carpets and microfibre
  performance fabrics.

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• Synthetic Polymers cont
• Nylon is made with petrochemicals and is
  inexpensive to manufacture. You can produce
  textured filaments, staple fibres and microfibres
  from it. Its properties are
• Non absorbent and prone to static, textured
  filaments transport moisture away from the body
• Fineness ranges from microfibre to coarse fibre
• Flat filaments trap little air so are cool,
  textured filaments trap air and provide warmth
• Very strong, excellent abrasion resistance
  durability
• Windproof, hydrophobic, water repellent, easy
  care, lightweight, flammable, soft, good drape
• Good elasticity, so good crease recovery
• Dyes well, looses strength with long exposure to
  sunlight
• Resistant to alkalis, solvents, mildew and
  fungus, but degraded by concentrated acids
• Non-renewable source, non-biodegradable
• Typical uses include carpets, curtains,
  umbrellas, tights, underwear, night wear, socks,
  ties, active wear, fleece garments, parachutes,
  seat belts, tents and ropes
• Performance can be improved with anti static
  treatments