Production Processes and Quality Assurance

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Production Processes and Quality Assurance
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What and Why

• Production
• The construction process by which pattern pieces,
  materials, and trims are merged into a finished
  apparel product.
• Cost of production
• Affected by product design and pattern
• Affected by the process
• Designers and pattern makers need production
  knowledge

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Manufacturing Environments

• Mass production
• Short-cycle production
• Mass customization
• Which one depends on
• Product type
• Replenishment strategy

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Mass production

• Very large quantities
• Economies of scale
• Staple products
• Low fashion risk
• Based on in-store replenishment
• Seasonal and staple good demand is easier to
  forecast.

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• Allows for longer lead times
• Can source off-shore and save on labor
• Mexico and CB

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Short-cycle Production

• Producst produced closer to time of market demand
• High fashion goods
• Short selling seasons (6-8 weeks)
• No intention of in-store replenishment
• Asia
• Fabric availability
• Skill levels

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Mass Customization

• Short cycle manufacturing to an individual
  consumer
• All the newest technologies
• Body scanning
• Pattern alteration software
• Virtual try-on
• Ink jet fabric printing

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• Involves the customization of fit, design and
  personalization
• Product already designed
• Customer customizes the product
• Fit customization
• Difference between the standard and the customers
  needed adjustments
• Body scanning

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• Design customization
• Fabric
• Sleeve
• Color
• Personalization
• More than just initial

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• Advantages
• Reducing inventories
• Minimizing returns
• Reducing distribution costs
• Customer relations
• Brand loyalty
• Consumer research

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Production Sewing Systems

• Single-handed
• Samples and prototypes
• Couture
• Progressive Bundle
• Common
• Bundles rolled from one machine to another
• Piece rate pay
• High level of WIP
• Bottle necks with varying speeds

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• Unit production system (UPS)
• Garment parts fed on over head conveyors
• One garment at a time
• Cross training
• Reduced operator handling time
• Equipment investment

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• Flexible Manufacturing Systems (FM)
• Modular manufacturing
• Self directed work teams
• Entire garments
• Paid on quantity and quality

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• Factors
• Downtime very critical
• Investment in training
• Support from management
• Cultural change
• Employees need to think and perform differently
• Increase in quality
• Reduction of WIP

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• Agile manufacturing
• Uses all the newest technologies
• Mass customization
• Flexibility in process
• Combination of systems

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Developments

• Faster industrial machines
• Specialized machines
• Standup sewing
• Equipment maintenance is critical
• Noise and air pollution
• Computerized sewing machines
• robotics

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CAD/CAM

• Computer aided manufacturing
• Increase speed and accuracy of
• Pattern making
• Market making
• Grading
• Cutting sewing

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• Improved product quality
• Reduced production time
• Diversified product line

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CIM

• Computerized Integrated Manufacturing
• Everything is linked
• Smooth flow of information
• Linkages to CAD/CAM
• Costing efficiencies
• Spec sheet development
• Numerically controlled stitching machines

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Production Process

• Determine the process that is most efficient and
  cost effective
• Construction specifications
• Sewing sequence
• Fusing interfacing
• Applying embellishment
• Pressing
• Hang tags
• Folding
• Packaging

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• Considerations
• Equipment capabilities
• Labor costs
• Subcontracting
• What can be done prior to sewing process?
• Problems
• Procurement of materials
• Fabric, zippers
• Subcontractors
• International sourcing issues

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Finishing

• Pressing and packaging
• Adding labels and bar codes
• Floor ready merchandise
• RFIC
• Radio frequency ID chip
• Fabric
• Laundering
• Stonewash
• Pre shrink
• Garment dyed

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Quality Assurance

• Meets the standards
• ASTM and AATCC
• Adhere to spec sheets
• Fabric inspection
• On-grain
• Dye lots

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• Sewing and finishing
• Stitches
• Seams
• Edges
• Button holes
• Hems
• Plaid matching

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• Finishing
• Thread trimming
• Closure placement
• Shoulder pads
• Linings
• Pressing

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• What if they dont meet standards
• Refuse shipment
• May not be able to replace
• Stock outs
• Seconds in outlet stores

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Logistics Agents

• Export agent
• Assists with exporting product out of contracted
  country
• Freight forwarding company
• Move goods from country of production into the US
• Customer broker
• Help with customs