Part One

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Part One
Introduction to Fashion
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Chapter 1

• The Evolution of Fashion

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Rose Bertin- The First Influential Designer

• Court milliner, 1772
• Becomes Marie Antoinettes confidante and
  seamstress, Court Minister of Fashion
• Prior to Bertin, the aristocrats elaborate
  dresses were made by secret names
• Aristocracy wanted the designer for themselves
  only

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Charles F. Worth- The First Couturier

• Englishman migrates to France and opens first
  couture house in 1858
• Court dressmaker to Empress Eugènie, wife of
  Napoleon III
• Others follow suit and set up houses
• Lyon becomes known for its textiles
• The Industrial Revolution begins to accelerate by
  the middle of the 19th Century

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Important Industrial Inventions for the Industry

• 1733 - Englishman John Kay invents the flying
  shuttle
• 1764 - James Hargreaves, another Englishman,
  invents the spinning jenny
• 1785 - Englishman Edmund Cartwright invents the
  power loom

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Important Industrial Inventions

• 1793 - Eli Whitney invents the cotton gin in
  America
• 1846 - Elias Howe, Jr. patents the sewing machine
  in America
• 1858 - Isaac Singer patents the sewing machine
  with a foot treadle in America

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Important Industrial Inventions

• The combination of the above mentioned inventions
  serves to create the capacity for ready-to-wear
  clothes to be produced on a large scale
• It also creates employment for women, and allows
  them to move out of the home and earn cash for
  their labor

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Labor is needed

• Immigrant population fills jobs
• Unions begin to develop
• ILGWU for women in 1900
• ACTWU for men in 1914
• They strike, but wield little effective power

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The catalyst for changeone horrible event

• 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in New York
  City
• 146 people die, mostly young immigrant women
• Onlookers watch from the street below as
  employees hurl themselves out of windows to the
  street below

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Retailing Develops in Response to Consumer Demand

• Limited-line stores
• Specialty stores restricted to narrow
  classifications
• Hudsons 1881, Nordstroms 1901
• Department stores (or full-line)
• Daytons 1902, Bendels 1912

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Mail Orders

• Rural free delivery, RFD, opens the way for this
  avenue
• Montgomery Ward in 1872, issued the first catalog
• Sears, in 1893, issued a catalog in excess of 500
  pages

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Primary Market

• Textiles are the focus
• Fibers, both natural (cotton, flax, silk, and
  wool) and manufactured (man-made), are the
  starting point
• Transformed into fabrics by subsequent processes

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Primary Market

• Vertical Integration
• Manufacturer performs all steps, from fiber to
  finished fabric
• Converters
• Take fabric and finish it according to
  manufacturers specs

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Secondary Market

• Manufacturers
• Responsible for all phases of production
• Cutting and sewing done in various configurations
• Reps or Jobbers
• Sell non-competing lines

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Secondary Market

• LimitedFunction Wholesalers
• Reps/Jobbers
• FullFunction Wholesalers
• Take actual title
• Licensing
• Pierre Cardin made this popular in the 60s

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Retailers

• Competition
• Federated with Bloomingdales, Macys, Burdines
  and Broadway is a conglomerate, as are rivals May
  Company, Target and Dillards
• Keep changing
• Staying with the times is crucial to survival in
  todays retail environment
• Montgomery Ward closed its doors and Sears
  eliminated general catalog to expand in-store
  fashion merchandise

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Retailers

• Spinoff
• Specialty stores featuring specific collections
• Macys Aeropostale
• Outlets
• For manufacturers to dispose of leftover
  merchandise
• Woodbury Commons

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Retailers

• Off-Price
• Discounters offer manufacturers irregulars and
  closeout goods
• T.J. Maxx, Marshalls

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Private Label

• Department stores manufacture their own goods
• This gives them exclusivity and better profit
  margins
• It also allows for flexibility in pricing

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Flagships

• Department stores first and foremost store
• Often in major cities, they were a tourist
  attraction and a matter of civic pride
• Today the consolidation of retailers has left
  fewer and fewer of these

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Malls

• The suburban shopping environment
• The exodus of the 50s, spurred by automobiles
  and suburban building, encouraged retailers to
  build where the consumer was

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Festival Squares

• A more recent development, creating a carnival
  like atmosphere in downtown areas
• Fishermans Wharf, S.F.
• Quincy Market, Boston
• South Street Seaport, N.Y.

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Enclosed Outlets

• Even more recent are the development of outlets
• They have become a destination for tourists
• Examples include
• Sawgrass, FL
• Woodbury Commons, NY

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Fashion Streets

• Elite shopping areas in exclusive neighborhoods
• Worth Avenue, FL
• Rodeo Drive, L.A.
• Madison Avenue, NY

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Leased Departments

• Require specially trained personnel
• Examples include
• Fine Jewelry
• Shoes
• Restaurants
• Furs

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Franchising

• Allows an empire to expand
• Franchisee benefits from franchisor merchandise,
  know-how and advertising
• Franchisee must follow the franchisors rules
• Benetton was a great example of this in the 1980s

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Consultants

• Forecaster 18 months in advance they anticipate
  trends, by visiting the primary trade shows
• Resident Buying Offices or RBO they are located
  in the wholesale market garment center for
  smaller size stores, but also have corporate
  entities
• Reporting Services send out information via
  reports to subscribers

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The Future

• Trends come from the street
• Body piercing, tattoos, baggy pants
• Secondary collections grow
• Lycra, Teflon, microfibers for silk change
  product

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The Future

• CAD and CAM continue to automate and speed
  production and shorten runs
• On-line sales will grow Spiegels, Lands End,
  Brooks Brothers and Eddie Bauer look to increase
  their gains

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PowerPointPresentation

• by
• Nicholas J. Pantinakis and Sherrie Morgan