Ο οδηγός ενός αρχαρίου για Ελιές: 14 Ποικιλίες αξίζει να αναζητούν (1)

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? ?d???? e??? a??a???? ??a ????? 14 ???????e?
a???e? ?a a?a??t???
2
????? ????? ??a µ???? t?? a????p???? d?at??f??
ed? ?a? ?????de? ?????a, p??? p??? ap? t?
ß??µ??a??a ???se?ß?p???a?, pa?t?p??e?a, ?a?
µa?t??? ???a? st? p??s?????. ???? p??? ap? ???e?
de?aet?e?, ? µ?s?? ?µe???a??? sa? ??e?e µ???
µe????? p??????e?-µe????? ?ta? p??s??a, µe?????
?ta? µa???, µe???? ?ta? ????? ??????ts?, ?a? ??
?a??te?e? ?ta? µpa???? ?eµ?st? ... ?a? a?t?
?ta?. Ost?s?, ?? e???? e??a? fa?tast??? p?????e?
?a? e??s?? e?????t?, a? t? ?daf?? se spreads ?a?
tapenades, pet??ta? se sa??te?, s???ß???e? se
µa?e??e?t? fa??t? ?a? s??tse?, plopped se
µa?t???, ? t???eta? ?ate??e?a? ap? t? ????.
?????, ????, a?µ???, p???? ?a? p????t??? ?e?se??
t??? e??a? µeµ???µ??a s?????t?µa, p?? t???
?a??st? ??a s?µa?t??? e??a?e?? st? ?p??st?s??
???e sp?t? µ??e??a.
3
???a? ep?s?? ?st????? s?µa?t??? ?µe??µ???e?
?a??????e?? t??? sta ß??? t?? ????et???, ?a?
e??a? ??aµµ??? st? ?es??e?? ?ast????µ??? Canon.
????? e??a? µe???? ap? ta a??a??te?a d??t?a p??
????? ???t?µ??e? p?t? ap? t?? ?????p?, µ?a
p?a?t??? p?? ????????e?ta? p??? ap? 8.000 ?????a.
S?µe?a, ?? e???? ?a???e?????ta? t?s? ??a t? ??d?
t??? (a??? a?t? e??a? ??a ???? ????? ... ? ??a
ß?ß???!) ?a? t??? ?a?p??? t???. ?? ?d??? ??
d??t?a e?d???µ??? se ?est?, ?p?t??p???? ???e?,
e?d??? se ?a?ass??? a??a ?a? ß?a??de? ?daf??.
Native p??? t? S???a ?a? t? ????? ?s?a, ?? p??te?
e???? s????????a? ap? ?aµ????? ??µ????. ?ta? ??
?ss????? ?? ?p???? a?a?????a? ?t? a??µat???,
p????t??? ??d? µp??e? ?a p?este? ap? a?t? t?
f???t?, ?a? ?ts? p??sp???se ?a ?a???e???se? ?a?
t? s????µ?d? t?? d??t??? ?aµ??d??. ?e t? ?????
?a? t?? p??s???, t?? e???, ? Olea europaea se
ß?ta?????? ???a??st??a, ????se ?a? e?e??????e se
p???s?? d??t?? p?? ????????µe s?µe?a. ?? e????
p?? de? ?a???e?????ta? ap? sp?????, a??? µ?????
ap? t?? pe????p? ???e? ? ??ad?? ?aµµ??a st?
?daf?? ?a? af??eta? ?a ???a, ? ?a eµß???????ta?
p??? se ???a d??t?a.
4
S??????? pa?a???? e???? ?a??pte? t? ?es??e??
?e???? ?a? ???a ?p?t??p??? ???e?,
s?µpe???aµßa??µ???? t?? ?at?????? ?µe????? ?a?
t?? ???µ??e? ????te?e?. ?a pe??ss?te?a ap? ta
e?????a e???? µa? ?????ta? ap? t??
?a??f????a-µe???e? aµpe????????? pe?????? ?a?
???µata te????? ?a e??a? f????e?? ??a
e?a??de?t?a, p??a p???. ???? e???? µe?a??????
a??µa p?? a??? ?a? apa?t??? s???ast???
?a??????e?a? se a?t???a?µa ??a a?t? t?? e?tat???
ep??d?s?, t? µa??????a t??? ep?ß?aße?e? p?????
?e????. ???? µa????, µa??? ???, ??p??a ??a ?s?
µ?a ????et?a.
S????µ?d? ? ep????? t?? ?a?p?? ? d?ad??as?a
s????µ?d?? d?ad?aµat??e? ßas??? ???? st??
?a????sµ? ap???t? ?e?s? ?a? t?? p???t?ta t??
e????. G?a ?a e???????µ?sete ???µata, ???sµ????
pa?a????? ???s?µ?p????? ??ßd??? ? µ??a??µata ??a
?a ta?a?????se? t?? ???µa f???ta ap? ta d??t?a, ?
af?ste t?? e???? sta d??t?a µ???? ?a e??a? t?s?
???µe? ?ste ?a p?ft??? st? ?daf??, ????? ?aµ?a
ß???e?a. ?? ?a? ap?d?t??? ap? p?e???? ??st???, ?
d?ad??as?a a?t? de? ???e? ??a ß??t?st? p???t?ta
ded?µ???? ?t? de? e??a? ???? ?? e???? se ??a
d??t?? ???µ????? ta?t?????a, p????? ap? t?? e????
p?? s???????ta? µp??e? ?a e??a? ??t? ? ?pe????µa,
?a??? ?a? ? s????? µeta?e???s? µp??e? ?a ß???e?
t? ?ept? ?a?p???. ?? ?a??te?e?, p?? apa?t?t???
e?a???a???e???t?? ???s?µ?p????? ??a pa?ad?s?a??,
a? ?????ß??a, ? µ???d?? pa?????? t?? e???? µe t?
????. ???e e???? ??e? ep??e?e? ??a t?? ???µ?t?ta,
ß?a?µ??a a???ß?? st? s?st? st??µ?. ??t?? ?? e????
µ???pe? ????te??, ?a? ?a d???µ?sete sublimely
p???s?a. ???? ????-picking e??a? ep?s?? µ?a
??????µ??? ?e????t?-t??pa, ?p?te µp??e?te ?a
pe??µ??ete ?a p?????? ??p??a s?ßa?? µet??t? ??a
a?t? ta pa?d??.
5
???µa Wars ???s??? ?a? µa??? ?a? µ?ß ??as??das?
de?p?? ??µµa ?e????? de? ?p?????? p??s??e?
e????! ?? ???µa t?? e???? e??a? µ?a ??de??? t??
???µ?t?ta? t??. ???s??e? e???? ???µ????? ?a?
?????ta? µa??e? e????. ? µ?????, ?a µetat?ape?
ap? p??s??? se a????t? ?af?, se ??a ???ta??
??????? ?a? µ?ß, st? ßa??te??, p?? s??te????
µa???. Se ?e????? ??aµµ??, t? p?? s????? t?
e?a???ad?, t? p?? ???µa ?ta? ?ta? ?ta? ß?a?µ??a
ap? t? d??t??.
?? p??s??e? e???? s?????? s???????ta? ?at? t??
??a??? t?? pe???d?? s????µ?d??, t? Sept?µß??? ?a?
t?? ??t?ß??? st? ß??e?? ?µ?sfa????. ????? µ?a
sta?e?? ?f? ?a? ?p?????, ?e?s? ?a??d???. ?a µa??a
(er) e???? s???????ta? t?? ???µß??? ?a? t??
?e??µß???, µe????? f???? t?s? a??? ?s? t??
?a???????, ?a? e??a? p?? µa?a??, p?? p???s?a, ?a?
meatier. ?? ???eta? µe t? f?µ?sµ??? ???s??ßa
"µa???-???µa" e?a???ad? ?a?? e??t?s?. ??t?? ??
e???? s???????ta? p??s???, st? s????e?a a?t?e?ta?
µe ??????? ??a ?a t??? µa???s???. s??? t???, t?te
pa???e? sta?e?? µe µ?a µa??? ??µ??? ???s? p??
???µ??eta? ?????????? s?d????. S?efte?te a?t? t?
µe?????? p??????a ?? Singles Kraft t?? ??sµ??
e????.
6
? pa?a???? t?? e???? ? e??? e??a? te????? ??a
d??p?, ??a f???t? µe ??a e??a?? µe???? p?t?a
st? es?te????. (?a?, e???? e??a? ta f???ta, de?
e??a? ?a?a????.) ????? e??a? ?eµ?ta ap? t?? ???s?
e?a????pe????, p?? t??? d????? µ?a ??t??? p????a.
Se s?????s? µe ???e? drupes-p?t?a f???ta ?p?? ta
??d????a ?a? ta ?e??s?a, e???? ????? e?t?p?s?a??
?aµ??? pe??e?t???t?ta se ???a?? ?a? ?????
pe??e?t???t?ta se ??? t? pet???a?? (12-30), ?a?
ta d?? e? t?? ?p???? p????????? a?????a µe t?
????? t?? s????µ?d?? ?a? t?? p??????a?.
???? e??a? µ?a ?e?ape?a p?? ???e? µ?a e??? µ?a
e???, p??sd?d??? t? ?a?a?t???st??? a?µ??a,
t??fe?? ?f? ?a? t? ?e?s?. ???? st?? p???a t??
oleuropin-asfa??, a??? ßa??? ap???t???-e????
p??pe? ?a ?p?ß?????ta? se µ?a d?ad??as?a
???µa?s??, p??? e??a? ?t??µ?? ?a f??e. ?? ??ete
?at? ????? da???se? se p??te? e????, de? e?ste
e????e??µ???? µe t?? aµf?ß???a t?? ßasa??st???
p???? pa???? p?? a??????e?. Olive ???µa?s??
e??a? st?? p?a?µat???t?ta pe??ss?te?? sa? ??µ?s?,
e??a? ? µetat??p? t?? f?s???? sa?????? t?? e????
se ?a?a?t??? ???. S????? ?e?s? e?e???pa??? ?a?
fa????e? ?a d????ste? ap? t?? ?a?p? se ??a ap? ta
p??te t??p???.
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????? ??a ?a ???ete, a??p?, ?a? ?a
?ataß?????se? Olive p??????e? p??e?
?a?a?t???st???? ?d??t?t?? t??? ap? t? ?e?et???
t???, t?? pe????? ?a? t? ???µa t???, ?a? p??
s????????a? ?a? ?e?ape?eta?. ?? ap?t??esµa e??a?
e?at??t?de? ?a? e?at??t?de? e???? µe µ??ad????
p??s?p???t?te?. ?a?????ta ??a t? µa??????sµa,
?a???e?µata ?a? ??µ?s? ta µ???? f???ta, ?a? t?
ap?t??esµa e??a? µ?a ape???? µe???? µe??? st??µ??
e???? p??a p???? ?a ?atat??e? se ??a ?a? µ???
?????. ???? de? f?ß???ta?! ?d? e??a? µe????
??as??? e???? ?a ????????? ?a? ?a ap??a?sete.
?a?aµ?ta ? ßas????? t?? e???????? ep?t?ap?????
e????, a?ap?µ??? ?a? d?µ?f???? ?a?aµ?ta? e??a?
ßa?? p??f???, µe sf??t?, ??????, ?aµpe?? d??µa,
?a? µ?a ?µ??f? aµ??da?? s??µa. ???a? s??????
d?at???µ??a se ??d? ap? ??????? ??as?, ???????
??as?, ?a? / ? e?a???ad? ??a ??a d?a???t???
p???s??, ?ap??st?, f???t?d? ?e?s?. ? p??????a
a?t? e??a? µ?a µe???? ?p???f??? ??a tapenades,
a??? µ?? ??ese ep?s?? ?a t??? se?ß??eta? ap?? µe
??p??? ??t? ??????p?d?.
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Castelvetrano Castelvetrano e???? e??a? p????
pa?ta??? pa??? s?a? e???? ?ta??a?. F?te???
p??s???, ap? ?p?? ?a? a? a?af??eta? s???? ??
dolce (?????), ?a? p???????ta? ap? Castelvetrano,
t? S??e??a, ap? t?? p??????a e???? nocerella del
Belice. ????? µ?a ???µ?t-p??s??? ???µa,
sa???µ???, ß??t???d? s???a, ?a? µ?a ?p?a ?e?s?.
??et?ste ta e??p??et??? µe t??? p??ße?? ???a ?a?
µ?a t?a?a?? ?e??? ??as?.
Cerignola ??t? ta ???a?t?a?a p??s??e? e???? p??
s????µ????ta? se Cerignola, st?? pe????? Puglia
t?? ?ta??a?, t? ta????? t?? µp?ta?. ???a? t?a?a??
?a? fa?tast??? ß??t????. ßa?? t? µ??e??? t??? ta
?a??st? e????a stuffable-pa????? ?d?a?te?a ?a??
µe t? s???d?, t? t???, ??pa?? ?a? a?ts????e?.
9
Nyon ??t? ta petite, jet-µa??e? e???? ap? t?
??t? t?? Ga???a? e??a? ? ?a?d??-d?a??p?. ???ta
????? µe??d???, st? s????e?a ???µ??e? se ??µ?, ta
pa?????, ??t?d?µ??? e???? e??a? sa???µ???,
µ????-a-???? p????, ?a? s?s?e?????ta? µe
a??µat??? ?e?s?. ???a? ?d?a?te?a ??st?µa ?t?µ????
µe ??d? ???ß????a? e?a???ad? ?a? a??µat??? ß?ta?a
?p?? t? de?d????ßa?? ?a? ??µ???.
Niçoise ?a???e??e?ta? se µ?a p??????a t?? e????
p?? ???µ??eta? Le Cailletier, seµ??? e????
Niçoise e??a? ??a ???s?µ? s?stat??? ??a ta
??as??? p??ta t?? ?a?????? ??ß???a?, s?efte?te
salade Niçoise ?a? p?sta e????. ???? e??a? e??s??
?a?µ?s?a ts?µp??sa? ap? µ???? t???. ??a ??µµ?t?
d??aµ???, a??? ??? a?ata????t?, ? Niçoise ??e?
de?east??? f?t??? ???µa µe e?af?? ??te? ap?
????????a.
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Liguria ?p?s?? ???ese Taggiasca e????, a?t? ?
µ?????aµ?µ??? p??????a s?s?e???e? µ?a µe????
d??t??s? ?e?s? ??a t? µ???? t??? µ??e???. ???a?
p?? ?a???e?????ta? st? ???????a, st?
ß??e??d?t???-p???? pe????? t?? ?ta??a?, ???a
µ???a µa???? ap? t?? pe????? t?? e???? Niçoise
t?? Ga???a?, ?a? ?? e???? e??a? p???µat?
pa??µ??a. ???a? s?????? ?e?ape?eta? µe ??a
a??µat??? µe??µa laves ???p?, de?t????ßa??,
??µ???.
Gaeta ??t? ta µ????, µ?ß-?af?, ?a??µ??? e????
ap? t?? ?p????a ????? µa?a??, t??fe?? s???a ?a?
????, espe??d?e?d?? ?e?s?. Gaetas µp??e? ?a e??a?
e?te ste???-?e?ape?te? (shrivelly, ?ast???t?) ?
??µ?-cured (pa?????, ???µe??). ??? a??se? ?a t???
e??p??et?se? p??? ap? ta µa?a????a µe ??pa?? ?a?
t? ??????????, ? ap?? e??p??ete?ta? ap? µp?? ??a
ts?µp?????µa.
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Picholine ??t? t??p??? s??µa ?a????? p??s??e?
e???? e??a? ?p????a t?a?a?? ?a? t?a?a??, µe µ?a
t??ta, ?a??d???, ???????s?-y ?e?s?. ???a? ?µ??f?
?a? a??et? ??µ?? ??a ?a ???s?µe?se? ?? ??e?t???,
?a? ?a d?se? µ?a e?p??sde?t? ?????? ??a ????t? ?
??a ???tast??? st?f?d?.
Gordal Gordal s?µa??e? ???t??? sta ?spa????.
?? ???µa e??a? d??a??????µ???? a?t?? e??a?
µe????? µe???e?, µe ?pe??f??e?a t? ??p?? e????,
µe t?? af????a t?? eta??e?a?, sa???µ??? p???t?
??a ?a ta?????e? µe t?? ep?ß??? t?? µe??????
t???. ?a???e??e?ta? st?? ??da???s?a, ?spa??a,
?p?? s????? d??t?a Gordal e?d???µ??? st? ????
???µa, a?t?? e??a? ?? a?ap?µ???? t?pa? e????.
Se?ß??ete t??? d?p?a ap? ??p??? jamon ?a? ??a
p?t??? Sherry.
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Alfonso ??? Alfonso e???? ?e?????ta? pa?ad?s?a??
?????, st?? epa???a t?? ????a, st??? p??p?de? t??
ß????? La Yarada, ?p?? p?????e, ?ta? ??t? t??
?e??? ?a???a ap? t? 1929. ??t? e??a? te??st??,
ßa?? p??f??? e???? p?? e??a? ??µ? ?e?ape?eta?,
t?te ????? eµßapt?ste? se e????? ??as?. ???a?
e?p?ast?, ???µe?? ?a? sa???d?, µe ??a? ?pa????µ?
t?? ???? p????a. ???a? µ?a p??????a s??????
ap??aµß????? µe a??a?t??? ?a? ??a ?eµ?t? ???????
??as?.
?p?st??? t? d??? t?? µ???? t?? e???? t?? ???. ??
?a? t?? ?ata???? t?? ?ta? p?ste?eta? ?t? e??a?
?spa????, ?? ep?st?µ??e? st? ?a?ep?st?µ?? t??
?spa??a? st?? ???d?ßa de? ?ta? se ??s? ?a
s??de?e? µe 700 p??????e? e???? t?? ?spa??a?. ?
ap?st??? e?a??de?t?a ????? ??µase st?? ?a??f????a
ap? t? 1700? t? µe?a??te?? µ???? t?? ap?d?s??
p??a??e? ?a ???e? t? e?a???ad?, a??? t? µa???
??d?-?e?ape?te? ?a? p??s??? ??µ?-cured
ep?t?ap????? e???? e??a? t?s? ?p?a, p??d?, ?a?
f?te??? st? ?e?s?.
13
Manzanilla ??t? t? ???e??, f?????, µe ??e?d??
s??µa e???? ap? t?? ?spa??a e??a? ??µ?
?e?ape?eta?, µe t?a?a?? ?f? ?a? e?af??? ?ap??st?,
aµ??da??-y ?e?s?. ???a? s???? ?eµ?st? µe
pimientos, ? ?a??sµ??a ?a? ?t?µ???? µe e?a???ad?
?a? f??s?? ??s???d?. ??a spot-on ??e?t???, e?d???
?ta? se?ß??eta? µe ???? Fino Sherry ?a? ??µ?.
Beldi ?a???? pa???e? e?at??t?de? p??????e?
e????, a??? e???e? µ??? µe????. ??? µp??e?te ?a
p??ete ta ????a sa? se a?t?, e?ste p?a?µat???
t??e???. ????e?ta? ??a ????-cured ?a? ????a,
??t??a a??µat???. Se?ß??ete t??? ?p?? ??
?a??????? ???e? se sa??te?, tagines, ?
paspa??sµ??a µe ?a?? e?a???ad? ?a? ?a?te??
p?pe???.
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?µf?ssa ?p? t??? ??f??? ap? t??? ?e?f???, t?
??????? sp?t? t?? a??a??? ??????? ???sµ???, a?t??
?? ????-d???e?e e???? ß?aße??e?? ??a ?a?? ????.
??a?µ??a ap? ta ?p??atast?µat? t???, ?ta? p???
???µa, s???-s??? ? ??µ? ?e?ape?te? ?a pe?se? µ?a
?p?a, f???t?d?? ?e?s? ?a? apa??t?ta
t???-in-sa?-st?µa. St?? ????da, ?? ?µf?ssa e????
se?ß????ta? s???? se s??pe? ? µa?e??e?t?? ???a?
ep?s?? µe???? d?p?a t???? ?a? a??a?t???.
??a ap????e?s? ????? p??pe? ?a e??a? s?et???
sta?e??, ?a? p?t? de? e?a?s??t?? ? eµfa???
µe?a??asµ???. ??? ?????ete ??a t?? e???? st?
"µpa? t?? e????", e??? ?atast?µat?? ???t????µe
??a t?? e???? ?t?µ???? se ??µ?, ? ?p??a ß???? ?a
d?at???se? t?? ???as?a ?a? t? ?e?s? t???. Ta
p??pe? ep?s?? ?a a?ap?d??????eta? s???? ??a
f?es??da. ????? st? sp?t?, ?a ap????e?se? t??
e???? sa? st? ???e??, eµß?pt?s? se ???? p?? ???e
?a? ?a?a?? ?a??µµ??a µe p?ast??? µeµß????, ??a
µ???? 10 ?µ??e?. ??? de? ?p???e? ??µ?, ft???ete
t? d??? sa?, ap?? p??s??ste ??a ???ta???? t??
?????? a??t? se ??a f??t???? ?a? t? ?µ?s? t??
?e???. ??? af??ete t?? e???? se ??a sf?a??sµ???
d??e??? e??a? ?a??te?a ??a a?t??? ?a a?ap?e?se?
????.