Ocean Waves

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Ocean Waves
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Surface waves are caused by prevailing winds
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Deep Ocean Currents are based almost entirely on
density.
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• Waves are defined by four things.
• Wave height
• Amplitude
• Wavelength
• Crest
• Trough

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As waves move, only the energy goes in the
direction of the wave. The water itself goes up
and down, or perhaps round and round.
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As waves come to shore, they become shorter and
higher, but the energy is not reduced. Energy is
expended on the shoreline, with destructive
effects.
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Breaker
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Rip Currents, are not to be played with. They
form when water returning to the ocean is
funneled through a channel in an underwater sand
bar, or something.
Recognize a rip current Murky water from
sediments stirred up by the current.?? Different
waves--larger and choppier. Foam or objects that
move steadily offshore.?? Survive a rip
current Don't fight the current. Swim parallel
to the shore to get out of the current. Rip
currents are rarely more than 30 feet wide. If
you can't escape, float calmly until the current
dissipates then swim diagonally back to the shore.
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• Tsunami a wave usually caused by an underwater
  earthquake, or a HUGE landslide.
• Wavelength can be 200 miles long in ocean
• Waveheight may be only 3 feet high.
• Boat would not even notice it.
• Means Harbor Wave

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According to a Japanese folktale, a venerable
grandfather who owned a rice field at the top of
a hill felt the sharp jolt of an Earth tremor one
day just before the harvest. From his hilltop
vantage point, he saw the sea pull back from the
shore. Curious villagers rushed out to explore
the exposed tidal flats and collect shellfish.
From experience, the old man knew of the grave
danger to his neighbors. With his grandson by
his side, he dashed about his fields, setting
fire to his crop. The villagers saw the smoke,
and hurried up the hill to aid their neighbor.
As they beat out the flames, they saw the old man
scurrying ahead, setting new fires near the
hill?s crest. Hoping to prevent him from
destroying all of his crops, they rushed up the
hill to stop him. Moments later, the villagers
saw a tremendous wall of water surging onshore,
flooding the flats where they had just been
standing and they understood that the old man
had sacrificed his harvest to save their lives.
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