Modifying Mineral Pigments

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Modifying Mineral Pigments with Natural
Ingredients
Pascal Delrieu, Yun Shao, David Schlossman
Neringa Kontrimiene Color Cosmetics Summit 2008
June 23, 2008
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Outline

• Market trends
• Mineral colorants
• Examples of Natural Ingredients
• Surface Treatments - Performance
• Hydrophobic Treatments
• Hydrophilic Treatments
• Summary

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Trend 1 - NATURAL

• Green lifestyle
• Close to 7 billion in 2007 (1 billion sales
  increase a year) projected to surpass 10
  billion before 2010
• Global sales of natural organic cosmetics -
  www.organicmonitor.com
• There hasn't been a brand as of yet to introduce
  a color cosmetic line that uses 100
  biodegradable packaging and all natural, organic
  ingredients.
• The Next Big Trend in Color Cosmetics http//www.
  associatedcontent.com/article/803309/the_next_big_
  trend_in_color_cosmetics.html

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Trend 2 - MINERAL

• There's a new rock star in cosmetics
  mineral-based makeup.
• USA TODAY - 3/24/2008
• 4.5 M. in 2005, 69 M. in 2006, 149 M. in 2007
  (mass market only)
• A third of women said they wanted mineral-based
  makeup (2007 survey - Mintel)
• Mineral-based cosmetic products 132 in 2005, 451
  in 2007 (U.S. market - Datamonitor's Productscan
  Online)

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Mineral Pigments
- Almost inert
Titanium dioxide
Iron oxides - React with acid
Ultramarines - Unstable in acid media
Manganese Violet - Unstable in alkaline condition
Minerals
- Stable
Chromium Oxides
Mica
- stable
Pearlescent
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Why mineral pigments need to be surface treated ?

• Improve
• Skin feel
• Chemical stability of metal oxides
• Pigment wetting and size reduction during
  production process
• Dispersion and formulation stability

Introduced to formulators in US from Japan by
Shoji Murata and Ryota Myoshi in 1981

• Most common surface treatments
• Metal Soaps, Silicones Silanes, Titanates

NOT NATURAL !
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Natural Surface Treatments Examples

• Hydrophobic Treatments
• Natural Surfactants Lecithin - Hydrogenated
  lecithin
• Waxes Jojoba Ester/Wax - Carnauba Wax
• Fatty Acids Isostearic Acid
• Hydrophilic Treatments
• Polysaccharides Cellulose , Agar, Alginate,
  Galactoarabinan, Chitosan
• Proteins Zein, Egg White
• Inorganic Silica

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Lecithin / Hydrogenated Lecithin

• Major phospholipid (Phosphatidyl choline) in cell
  membrane
• Extracted from soybeans
• Amphiphilic / natural surfactant
• Unsaturated fatty acids (lecithin) may turn
  rancid hydrogenated lecithin

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Jojoba Wax - Jojoba Esters

• Extracted from Simmondsia chinensis seeds
• Wax with extremely long straight chain (C36-C46)
  acids and alcohols
• Similar to and compatible with sebum
• Emollient, protective, softening
• Jojoba esters are very resistant
  to oxidation

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Carnauba Wax

• Carnauba is a wax derived from the leaves of the
  carnauba palm (Copernicia prunifera)
• Contains esters of fatty acids, fatty alcohols,
  acids and hydrocarbons. High content of
  esterified fatty diols.
• Very high melting point 78-85C compared to
  other natural waxes very hard wax

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Alginate

• Alginic acid is a linear polysaccharide
  (1-4)-linked ß-D-mannuronate and a-L-guluronate.
• Extracted from seaweed (giant kelp, Laminaria, )
• Forms thermally stable cold setting gels in the
  presence of calcium ions

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Galactoarabinan

• Highly functional polysaccharide extracted from
  the western larch tree
• Film former minimize the appearance of fine
  lines and wrinkles and reduce transepidermal
  water loss

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Other Polysaccharides

• Cellulose (ß(1 4) linked D-glucose) Component
  of the primary cell wall of green plants algae
  most common organic compound on Earth

• Agar-agar (Anhydro-galactopyranose /
  galactopyranose) obtained from red algae
  Gelling agent and thickener

• Chitosan (D-glucosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine
  ) produced by deacetylation of chitin,
  (exoskeleton of crustaceans)

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Surface Treatments Performances
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Hydrophobic Treatments

• Carnauba Wax (CW) 4
• Jojoba Esters (JE) 2
• Isostearic Acid (ISA) 2
• Lauroyl Lysine (LL) 5
• Lecithin (CL) 3
• Hydrogenated Lecithin (PC) 1

• Titanium Dioxide
• Yellow Iron Oxide
• Sericite

Floatation test in water
CW JE ISA LL CL PC
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Hydrophobic Treatments Feel (I)
Titanium Dioxide
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Hydrophobic Treatments Feel (II)
Sericite
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Hydrophobic Treatments Odor
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Hydrophobic Treatments Odor Change
Stability at high temperature 6 hours at 90C
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Natural Treated Mineral Powder with SPF
Loose Powder KPW-007A
Manufacturing Procedure Pass premixed Part 1
through a micropulverizer or suitable equipment
until color is fully extended. Description A
Natural Treated Mineral Powder that shows better
color development, adhesion to skin, even
application and better feel than control formula
KPW-007B. Better adhesion and even laydown should
help SPF value.
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Natural Treated Mineral Powder with SPF
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Mineral Eye Shadow
Pressed Powder KEY-014A
Manufacturing Procedure 1. Pass premixed Part 1
through a micropulverizer or suitable equipment
until fully extended. 2. Under agitation slowly
spray in binder of Part. Mix until fully
dispersed or pass through micropulverizer until
dispersed. 3. Press at 700 psi. Description
Velvety feeling eyeshadow with good application,
skin adherence, and wear due to NJE Natural
Jojoba Ester Treatment.
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Mineral Eye Shadow
Drop test
Untreated JE Treatment
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Hydrophilic Treatments

• Titanium Dioxide
• Yellow Iron Oxide
• Sericite

• Galactoarabinan (GA) 2
• Alginic Acid (AL) 1
• Silica (SI) 2

• Feel doesnt improve the feel of TiO2
  (hydrophilic surface)
• Odor treated TiO2 have no odor a slight odor
  change is noticed after 6 hours at 90C for GA
  and AL treated TiO2

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Hydrophilic Treatments - Dispersibility (I)
Titanium Dioxide dispersed in water
Untreated TiO2 settles down rapidly Alginate
and Galatoarabinose treatments dramatically
increase dispersability
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Hydrophilic Treatments - Dispersibility (II)
Yellow Iron Oxide dispersed in water
Untreated Iron Oxide settles down rapidly
Galactoarabinan treatment dramatically increase
dispersability
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Summary

• Use of natural ingredients and minerals is
  rapidly increasing.
• Surface treatment of mineral pigments is needed
  to improve their properties feel, stability,
  ease of formulation.
• A large number of natural ingredients can be used
  to modify the surface of mineral pigments
  however, not all ingredients are stable enough to
  be used in formulas (development of odor).
• Depending on the treatment, characteristic of the
  pigments can be changed and adapted to the
  formulators need.
• Natural-based surface-treatment allow to
  formulate all-natural products.

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Acknowledgement

• Carl Orr, Shirley Wang and Danielle Kennedy for
  their help with formulation.
• Presentation is available for download _at_
• www.koboproductsinc.com/downloads/Kobo-ColorSummit
  08.ppt