KNOW%20YOUR%20CUSTOMER,%20KNOW%20YOUR%20PRODUCT

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KNOW YOUR CUSTOMER, KNOW YOUR
PRODUCT
Presented
by Indronil Biswas
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• Good Morning, this is what we will do today !
• Pre noon
• Introduction
• Expectation setting
• Share objectives
• Role of a customer care associate
• The Dos Donts
• Customer first 5 important service habits
• Shopping - a delightful experience! - Mock
  sessions
• Post noon
• Basic of fabrics/weaves

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• What is the program objective?
• Learn to create a relationship with the customer,
  by understanding what he/she needs.
• To help us understand the feature,advantages,bene
  fitconcept of selling
• Why are we doing this program?
• Because we need to always stay
  ahead of competition,By knowing our products
  well,
• presenting them well to our customer,
• having an edge over the others by offering
  value added service

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What is my role at the store?
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What value addition do you offer to
your customers What should be the
focus of a salesperson? Do you
"only" sell what the customer asks for?


brand
loyalty service
quality
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• Why does a customer buy?
• To meet his needs here there are two types of
  needs.
• Logical need He needs a shirt /size
  42/ color black etc
• Important presentation / meeting
• Wedding
• Formal office wear
• Semi-formal / Relaxed office wear
• Leisure wear/Party wear
• It is also for another important reason ? What is
  that?

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A quick look at the 5 important service
habits G.U.E.S.T
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Our product range

• Shirts
• Trousers
• Suits
• T-shirts
• Jeans
• Accessories
• 
  parts of shirt

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Shirts Construction Terminology

• Collar
• Yoke
• Placket
• Front panels
• Back panel
• Sleeves
• Cuffs
• Sleeve placket
• Trail

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Shirts collars

• Regular/Traditional

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Shirts - collars

• Button down

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Shirts- collars

• Half cut away Narrow

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Shirts - collars

• Full cut away mandarin or Chinese collar

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• Types of cuffs
• Regular cuffs
• French cuffs
• Types of sleeves
• Full sleeves
• Half sleeves

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Regular Cuff
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French Cuff
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Trousers Construction Terminology

• Turn ups
• Inseam
• Out seam
• Bar tacks
• Pockets

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Pocket Options

• Most commonly used front pocket styles in
  trousers
• Cross Pockets
• Straight Pockets
• Frog mouth
• Welt placket

• Most commonly used front pocket styles in Shirts
• Patch Pockets
• Welt placket

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Pocket Options
Cross Pocket
Frog/ L Mouth
Straight/ Tab Pocket
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Types of Trouser Fits

• Different types of fits
• Comfort fits
• Trim fit
• Boot cut

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Single Pleat Trouser
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Double Pleated Trouser
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Pleated Trouser
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Flat Front Trouser
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Types of Trouser Fits

• Boot Cut trousers
• Trousers which flare towards the end.
• This is a fashion inspired style.
• Comfort fits
• This refers to a relaxed fit which has more
  margin for expandability and hence greater
  comfort.
• Cargos and detachable are examples of comfort
  fits.

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Types of Trouser Fits

• Trim Fit
• Almost parallel/straight cut trousers with a
  slight taper towards the end.
• Can be pleated or flat front.
• Allen Solly offers a wide range in this category

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Trouser Alteration

• The following alterations are possible
• Length of trouser
• Ask customer to wear the trouser. Make allowances
  for footwear
• Measure the out seam i.e. from upper edge of the
  waist band to middle of the footwear
• In case you have been given a reference trouser
  consider the inseams for both the trousers
• Waist of trouser
• This can be altered only for those trouser which
  have a two piece waist band.

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• Suits

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Suits Construction Terminology

• Silhouette Cut or Shape of the suit
• Shoulder width/fit
• Drop
• Length of the Jacket
• Styling
• Vents
• Lapels
• Single/double breasted
• Pockets
• Trims
• Other terms
• Floating chest piece
• Lining
• Shoulder pad

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Selection of Fabric
Silhouette
Fabric Weave Blend
Shoulder width/fit Drop Length of Jacket
Stitch
Style
Cutting Sewing Pressing/QC
Lapels SB/DB Pockets Trims Vents
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Suits Construction Terminology

• Silhouette This is the cut or shape of the suit
• Shoulder width The width of the shoulder,
• Drop Chest size-waist size
• It is the taper from the chest to the waist
• Gives form and shape to the suit
• Forms the basis for the corresponding trouser
  size in the suit
• Eg a perfect figure is 42(chest) 36 (waist)
• 3 types of Drop used frequently
• Drop 6 Regular / Standard
• Drop 4 for fatter people
• Drop 8 for broad shouldered narrow waist

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Suits Construction Terminology

• Sleeve jacket length
• The Jacket must be long enough to cover the curve
  of the backside
• The sleeve should end half an inch above the
  wrist bone
• This is dependant on the choice of the wearer
• Sleeves are broader towards the wrist
• Open Cuff

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Suits Construction Terminology

• Vents
• Given on the back or side of the Jacket
• Function
• Greater comfort
• Freedom of motion
• Current range of LP/VH are ventless
• Lapel
• refers to the collar extending across the front
  of a Jacket or Blazer
• Width is usually about 3.5

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Types of Jacket Lapels
Peaked lapel
Notched lapel
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Types of Jacket Lapels
Inversed Peaked
Tuxedo
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Single Breasted Jacket

• Options in a single Breasted Jacket
• SB 3, SB 4 SB 5
• Currently SB 3 SB 4 as a part of the range
• Maximum purchase is in this category

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2 Button Single Breasted (SB2)
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3 Button Single Breasted (SB3)
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Double Breasted Jacket

• 6 buttons on the front , with buttoning possible
  on one/two of the buttons
• Ideal for heavy built
• Conceals excess weight
• Out of fashion currently
• 4 buttons on the front with buttoning possible on
  one of the buttons

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6/2 Double Breasted Jacket
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Jacket Alterations

• The following alterations are possible
• Length of the Jacket
• Can be increased/decreased by an inch.
• Length of the sleeve
• It can be altered by 1 inch

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• Trims

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Trims

• All components in a garment other than body
  fabric Trims
• These can be divided into 2 categories
• External trims
• Internal trims
• The trims used are imported and of the best
  quality

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Trims

• External trims
• Buttons of different types
• Labels including swing tags
• Internal trims
• Felt
• Interlining
• Horse hair/Camel hair
• Shoulder pad assembly/floating chest piece

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Trims

• Buttons
• Front buttons may be useable or for show
• Normally 4 buttons are on the cuff
• Buttons on the cuff are merely for show
• Generally horn buttons are used for jackets. They
  are
• Strong
• Crack resistant
• Look good

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Trims

• Felt ( wool, hair or fur)
• Gives body to the collar, extra softness, support
  and flexibility
• Thinner felt used in the underside of the collar
• Imported from Germany
• Interlining
• Used only on the sleeve cuff and the lapel of a
  jacket
• It is fused with the sleeve fabric as a
  stiffening fabric

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Trims

• Horse hair/camel hair
• Woven out of horse hair and camel hair
• Gives additional stiffness, support and shape
• Used in chest piece and in shoulder pads
• Imported from Germany
• Shoulder pad assembly
• Give shape to shoulders and a soft feel
• Layers of felt horse hair camel hair cotton
  stuffing
• Imported from Germany
• Floating chest piece assembly
• Layers of specially cut horse hair placed at
  biases
• Is stitched loosely to the shell
• Allows free movement of arms and chest

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• Fiber

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Fabric
Basic Fibers Natural and Man made
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Loom a schematic Diagram
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Material-Wovens

• Cotton-Natural fibre
• Comfortable
• Machine-washable, dry-cleanable
• Good strength
• Drapes well
• Soft hand
• Absorbent

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Material-Wovens

• Woolen- Natural fibre
• Comfortable
• Good to feel
• Lightweight
• Good insulator
• Wrinkle-resistant
• Absorbent
• Durable

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Material-Wovens

• Silk-Natural fibre
• Soft or crisp hand
• Luxurious Drapes well
• Thinnest of all natural fibers
• Hand-washable or dry-cleanable
• Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight

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Material-Wovens

• Linen-Natural fibre
• From the Flax plant, natural lustre
• Comfortable
• Good strength, twice as strong as cotton
• Hand-washable or dry-cleanable
• Crisp hand
• Absorbs sweat

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Material-Wovens

• Tencel-Man-made fibre
• Produced from the cellulose of wood pulp
• Adds softness
• Luxurious drape
• Breathable
• Good absorbency
• Practical performance of man-made fibre

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Material-Wovens

• Polyester-Man-made fibre
• Strong
• Crisp / soft hand
• Resistant to stretching and shrinkage
• Washable or dry-cleanable
• Quick drying
• Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat
  retention (if heat set)

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Material-Wovens

• Viscose-Man-made fibre
• More breathable
• Relatively less durable
• Wrinkles easily
• Pilling is a problem
• Shrinks after washing
• Susceptible to mould and silverfish.
• Absorbs sweat

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Material-Wovens

• Polynosic-Man-made fibre
• Drapes well
• Excellent luster
• Breathable
• Can be dyed in bright colors
• 
  fabric

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FabricYarn
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Woven Fabric Manufacturing

• Spinning
• Yarn
• Weaving
• Greige fabric
• Wet Processing
• Finished fabric
• Inspection Packed fabric

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Fabric-Yarn

• Spinning - Fiber to Yarn process
• Fibers are usually grouped and twisted into a
  continuous strand called yarns.
• Carding Cleaning and dis-entangling of fibers
• Combing After Carding further cleans, removes
  shorter fibers and increases alignment of fibers
• Carded or carded combed sliver is made into
  yarn
• Yarns are made by twisting the slivers while
  simultaneously pulling or drawing the fiber out.

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Carding
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Carding
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Combing
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Combing
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FabricYarn

• Carded Combed yarn
• Advantages of combed yarn
• Fabric looks better
• Feels smoother
• Is stronger

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FabricYarn

• Ply 2 or more single yarns twisted together
• Count 100gms of cotton stretched to n
  meters.
• for eg stretched to 40 40s count
• 2 ply 2/40 2/40 ( warp and weft yarn)
• Advantages of Plying
• Stronger
• Durability enhanced
• Surface look feel improves
• Reduced tendency to pill
• 
  blending

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Blending

• A yarn or fabric made of more than one fiber
• Advantages - To get the best properties of both
  Natural and Synthetic fibers.
• Mixing of two or more types of fibers
• Blending is done by weight only
• Contributes to the cost of the garment

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Material-Blending
Cotton
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Polyester Cotton P/C
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Material-Blending
Polyester
Wool
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Poly Wool
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Polyester Cotton (PC)

• Polyester (67) and Cotton (33)
• Cotton
• Softness, Breathability, Absorbency
• Polyester
• Strong, Resistance to Creasing, Quick dry,

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Chief Value Cotton (CVC)

• Polyester (40)Cotton(60) - Soft handle
• Cotton
• Softness, Breath ability, Absorbency , Comfort
  due to richer Cotton content
• Polyester
• Strength, Crease resistance, Easy care

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Polyester/Terry Wool(PW)

• Polyester (67) and Wool (33)
• Usually referred to as Poly wool
• Wool imparts
• better drape, warmth absorbency
• Polyester imparts
• Wrinkle resistance
• Strength Luster
• 
  weaves

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Weaving

• Process of Interlacement of Warp Weft on Loom
  to get Fabric.

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Fabric-Weaves

• Yarn on 2 sides of Fabric
• Warp (Vertical)
• Weft (Horizontal)

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Fabric-Weave
The weave
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Fabric-Weaves

• The most commonly used weaves in suits and
  blazers are
• Plain weave
• Matte weave
• Twill weave
• Pick and pick weave

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Plain Weave

• Firm and durable
• Interlacement of yarns is very high hence,
  resists snagging and pulling

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Plain Weave
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Plain Weave

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Twill Weave

• Diagonal pattern on the surface
• Stronger weave
• Good wrinkle (crease) recovery

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Types of Twill weave
Twill
Herringbone
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Matte Weave

• Also known as BASKET WEAVE
• Its a variation of plain weave.
• Uses doubled yarn to produce a basket like design
  on the face of the fabric

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Basket Weave

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Basket Weave

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Chambray
White Weft Yarn
Colour Warp Yarn

• Gives a two tone look
• Used in All types of garments
• History Named after Chambrai
  province in France

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Fil-a-Fil
White Weft Yarn
Alternate Colour White Warp Yarn

• Gives two tone look
• Used in All types of garments

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Pick Pick Weave

• Alternate white and colored yarns on the warp and
  weft
• A variant of the Fil-A-Fil weave (used in shirts)

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Oxford

• Soft light weight woven cotton or blended in a
  matt weave variation , using plain weave
  construction
• Creates a soft texture, smooth surface
• Gives a dotted effect.
• 1. Classical (Larger heads)
• 2. Pin Point-PPO (Small heads)tightly
  woven
• Used in Shirts

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Corduroy

• Used in Bottom wear and outerwear
• Benefit Hardwearing fabric for ooutdoor wear
• Warmth providing fabric
• History Named after Corde Du Roi,
  French for - Cloth of King

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Denim

• Twill Chambray -Indigo dyed Warp Undyed Weft
• Used in Jeans - heavy weights
• Outerwear - heavy weight
• Shirts / Tops - light weight
• Benefit Hard wearing
• Trendy
• History Named after a place in
  
• France called Diemes.
• 
  dyeing

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Types of Dyeing

• Top/fiber dyeing
• Yarn dyeing - Shriting
• Beam Dyeing - Denims
• Fabric dyeing
• Garment dyeing
• Printing - Block, Screen, Rotary, Flocking, Burn
  outs, Laser, Space dyeds.
• .

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• Pilling strength
• Done for blends only
• Wet alkali test
• Done for 100 cottons only (as possibility of
  fading is higher here).
• Some alkali (acting like a detergent) is applied
  to the swatch exposed to sunlight for a few
  hours and then compared with the original shade.
•  

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• Knits (special tests)
•  Bursting Strength fabric is checked to see what
  degree of pressure it tears at - called
  bursts in Knits.
• Light fastness dry fabric is exposed to light
  for almost a day and then checked for color
  fastness

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Washes and Finishes

• Finishes
• Processes/treatments a fabric is put through
  after it has been made and dyed.
• The main purposeTo make the fabric more suitable
  for its intended end use.
• Finishes might be given for aesthetic purposes or
  for functional purposes (referred to as a
  treatment)

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Finishes

• Types of Finishes
• Emerising is a process by which garments are
  passed through rollers to soften the fabric
• Microsanding
• This is done by use of special machines and does
  not involve chemicals
• Makes the fabric smoother.
• Peaching
• This refers to a stronger process of brushing the
  fabric using fine wire brushes
• This finish is widely used on outdoor cargos.
• Makes the fabric softer.

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Washes and Finishes

• Washes
• Finished garments treated with catalysts to get
  the required effect.
• Garments which are 100 Cotton or Cotton blends
  are washed for various reasons.
• Normally only Semiformal/casual garments are
  washed.

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Washes and Finishes

• Garments are washed for the following reasons
• To influence physical properties like
• Softness/handle
• Drape
• Absorbency
• Creasing
• To create shrinkage and effects of shrinkage
  (pucker)
• To influence appearance of fabric by changing the
  colour or luster/ fashion purposes

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Types of Washes

• Softener Wash
• This is the simplest type of wash. This wash does
  not use enzymes and is not harsh on the garment.
• Corduroys are washed using this type of wash
• Stone wash
• Used on trousers to get the faded look. Garments
  are actually washed with stones in the washers in
  the presence of special enzymes
• Enzyme wash

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Types of Washes

• Feather wash
• This is an Enzyme wash to get softer feeling
  trousers. Used on twill trousers. Gives a
  slightly faded look.
• Sand wash
• Acid wash
• Used widely on denims
• Other types of washesGolf ball wash, pumice wash
  etc.

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Special Treatments

• Wrinkle Free
• 100 cotton trousers which are given a special
  chemical treatment.
• The Tencel-cotton range from Allen Solly is also
  wrinkle free
• Such trousers feel softer, have enhanced
  breathability, do not shrink or wrinkle.
• Perfect for business meetings and travel

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Special Treatments

• Wrinkle Free
• A chemical process where trousers are resinated
  and baked at specific temperatures to give the
  required properties
• Different brands have this range as a part of the
  offering
• DURA PRESS- Van-Heusen collection of anti wrinkle
  shirts.
• PERMA PRESS- Louis Philippe wrinkle free trousers
  and shirts
• UNCRUSHABLES-from Allen Solly

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Special Treatments

• Anti bacterial
• These garments are given a special bacteriostatic
  finish which prevents bacterial growth.
• Hence garments do not catch body odor and are
  always fresh
• This treatment is only done abroad. (imported
  fabric is used in our range)
• Anti Static to avoid static charges

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Special Treatments

• Stain resistance
• Special chemical treatment given to trousers as a
  result of which liquids are not absorbed by the
  fabric.
• This treatment is done on polyester blends
• These garments do not crease easily
• Perfect for party wear and travel.
• Stain release
• This garment stains but releases the stain on
  washing with plain water.

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Knitted Fabric Designs
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Fully Fashioned Knit
Patterns achieved using fully fashioned knit
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Knitted Designs
Auto Stripes
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Knitted Designs
Auto Stripes
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Knitted Designs
Engineered Stripes
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Knitted Designs
Argyle
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Knitted Designs
Cable
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• Importance of Accessories

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• Emphasis is on role of the staff
• Ask them what it is, does it center around people
  or stocks.
• What value addition is happening at the store
  because of you.
• Huge walk ins, mass product, but still u can
  attract the zodiac/arrow crowd to your counter??
• Where does service fit in all these aspects.
• Ultimately it has to be a product service bundle!
• think of the days when shirts
  used to be kept covered in boxes, today they are
  accessible, but what about your role.
• What does it mean to you.